Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are beautiful, edible flowers that can grow well in any garden. Sunflowers just like their name suggest, brighten up the day with their large striking flowers and they also attract pollinators to your garden. Sunflowers have a lot of beneficial relationships and within the garden and are on my must grow list every year.
Sunflowers offer so many beneficial relationships within your garden. They are also known to remove toxins from the soil. This can be a great way to regenerate soil. If you have had spill of chemicals or other sprays have been used on your soil, plant sunflowers to help remove some of these toxins. But of course do not eat any that have been planted in the “bad soil”.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow sunflowers:
Low maintenance
Drought tolerant
Pest resistant
Attract Pollinators
Create diversity in the garden
Add colour to your garden
Edible flowers, seeds, stalks and leaves
Add nutrients to your meals
Aid in soil regeneration
Bird or animal feed (seeds)
Make oil
Natural plant dyes
Act as a trellis to grow vines up
Green manure
Popular Sunflower Varieties
‘Mammoth ‘Russian‘– Large single yellow flowers. Grows 2-4m tall. Abundance of edible seeds.
‘Prado Red‘ – Rich red colour. Multiple flowers up to 10 per stem. Grows to 1.5m tall. Remove old flowers to promote extra growth.
‘Van Goghs Landscape’ – Large single traditional yellow flower. Grows to 1.5m tall.
‘Double Dazzler’ – Semi-double single stem flower with tightly packed petals. Edible petals and seeds. Grows to 2m tall.
‘ Evening Sun’ – Striking multi head sunflower. Colours range from red, bronze and yellow.
‘Italian White’ – Pale yellow multi head flowers. Grows to 1.5m tall. Great cut flowers.
‘Moonwalker’ – Pale yellow multi head flowers. Grows to 2m tall. Bushy plant great for screening. Remove old flowers to promote extra growth.
‘Teddy bear’ – Fluffy deep gold double flowers. Multi-stems per plant. Dwarf variety grows up to 50cm tall. Great for pots.
‘Dwarf Sunsation’ – Compact plant with golden yellow flowers. Multi-stems per plant. Dwarf variety grows up to 45cm tall. Great for pots.
How to Grow Sunflowers
Sunflowers like a full sun location. They will turn their head to follow the sun during the day! Sunflowers grow well in most soil but do prefer fertile, free-draining soil. Plant the seeds directly in the soil during spring and summer after the last frost. Plant 30cm apart. Sow seeds in trays indoors first to speed up germination if you are planting late in the season.
When to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers are warm weather plants so plant the seeds during spring and summer. There are many varieties available with differing lengths of growth and harvest.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep the plants well-watered on warm days. Mulch the base to keep moisture in and weeds out. For an extra boost you can feed your plants with a liquid seaweed solution every 2-3 weeks. Be aware that your local birds may find your sunflowers once they start to form seeds so you may need to harvest them early and keep in a vase inside to fully open. Plants with multiple flowers on each stem can be “dead headed” (cut old flowers off) to promote more flowers to form. The large single flowering varieties such as the ‘Mammoth’ may need staking to help keep them upright especially with wind or rain.
Pests / Disease
Mice and rats love the sunflower seeds so be aware and if you have an issue with this it may be best to start the seeds off inside until they are seedlings. Slugs and snails may be an issue when the plants are young. Utilise natural pest management . As the sunflowers mature there will be less pests until they flower and attract birds. If you plant plenty there may be enough for you and the local birds to enjoy!
How/ When to Harvest
Harvesting will depend on the variety of Sunflower you have chosen. Read the packet or label to determine the type and length of harvest. Multi- stem flowers can be picked as they flower to promote more growth. Large single head flowers will be ready to pick as their petals open. Leave longer on the plant if you want to harvest the seeds (but before the birds do). Use a sharp pair of secateurs.
Reproducing / Saving Seeds
Sunflower seeds will form in the centre of the flower. These will form last as the petals start to fall off. Pick the flower and hang it upside down somewhere warm and dry (away from any birds, rats or mice). Once the head is completely dry, remove the seeds and place in a tray to dry further for a few days. Once the seeds are all dry place them in a brown paper back and label them with the variety and year of harvest. Keep the seeds in a cool, dry dark place ready to plant again the following year.
Cooking and Using Sunflowers
Sunflower petals and seeds can be eaten fresh. The seeds can also be pressed using specialty equipment to make vegetable oil. The petals can be used fresh in salads or baking as garnish. The petals can also be used to make natural dyes. The sunflower leaves can be used just like spinach or collard greens. The younger leaves are best. The young stems can also be used fresh or cooked.
Preserving the Harvest
Sunflower petals can be preserved by pressing or drying and keeping in an airtight container. These can then be used to add bright colourful edible flowers to any meal throughout the year. Sunflower seeds can be dried and kept in a jar to use in cooking by roasting the seeds.
Cauliflower (Brassica oleraceabotrytis) is a hearty winter vegetable that provides large yields of nutritious food that can be used in so many ways! Cauliflower is great at holding flavours and can form the base of many meals. Growing your own Cauliflower at home means you will have nutrient-rich veggies but you will also get access to all the extra parts of the plant such as the leaves and the stem that are both edible and delicious. Cauliflower is easy to grow and can be grown in containers or garden beds. They are heavy feeders and can be susceptible to bugs such as caterpillars, slugs, and snails
‘First Early’ – Fast growing, small, compact heads. Harvest 90days.
‘ All-year round’ – Popular English heirloom. Dwarf size plant with medium/standard sized cauliflower heads. Harvest 110 days.
‘Purple Sicily’ – Large bright purple heads. Italian heirloom. Mild, sweet flavour. Harvest in 190 days.
‘Green Macerata’ – Bright lime green heads. Southern Italian heirloom. Good for cold climates. Large heads 1-1.5kg. Harvest in 190 days.
How to Grow Cauliflower
Cauliflower likes cool temperatures and a full sun location. Cauliflower is a heavy feeder so much sure your soil is topped up with compost and try to plant your Cauliflower in a different area of the garden each year to help the soil replenish the nutrients. Cauliflower can grow quite large with big leaves so plant your seedlings about 40- 50cm apart in compost-rich soil, water in your seedlings directly after planting. Add a layer of mulch to keep the soil protected from weeds and moisture in.
When to Plant Cauliflower
Cauliflower is a cool weather plant so you typically want to be harvesting your Cauliflower during winter and early spring. However, in some climates it can be grown all year round. There are many varieties available and some that can tolerate warm or cold weather. Sow your seeds in the last few months of Summer or during Autumn so that your Cauliflower plants are ready to harvest over winter.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep the plants well-watered on warm days. Water the plant at the base to avoid excess water pooling in the leaves and causing rot. For an extra boost you can feed your plants with a liquid seaweed solution every 2-3 weeks. Once the heads start forming it is best to protect the white Cauliflower from the sun. You can do this by folding the outer leaves over the head or tying them together above. The sun will “burn” or discolour your white cauliflower varieties.
Pests / Disease
Cauliflower is a prime target for white butterflies and caterpillars. Check your plants regularly by lifting the leaves and checking for caterpillars or larvae and remove. A barrier of crushed eggshells or a small container of beer can help keep the slugs and snails away especially while the plants are young and delicate. Plant a few extras throughout your garden and you will be sure to have more than enough Cauliflower to eat! Click here for more natural pest management to help keep the pests at bay.
How/ When to Harvest
Depending on the variety Cauliflower will be ready to harvest in 90-190 days. The Cauliflower head should be tightly packed and not have started going to flower. Once the little buds start separating and moving apart you will want to harvest ASAP as the flowers will be quite bitter in flavour. To harvest your Cauliflower cut the stem using a sharp knife. You can also harvest the younger leaves and use them in cooking as extra greens.
Reproducing / Saving Seeds
Cauliflower seeds can be saved after letting one of the Cauliflower florets go to flower and seed. Yellow flowers will appear and then after that, seed pods will form. Once the seed pods have dried off you can harvest all the seed pods. The Cauliflower seeds can be removed from the dried pods and stored to replant the following season. Save the seeds in a cool, dry, dark space.
Cooking and Using Cauliflower
Cauliflower is such a hearty vegetable and can provide nutritious and filling meals. Cauliflower can be used in so many ways such as raw in a salad, roasted, grilled, steamed, stirfried, and added to any curry or soup. Cauliflower is a great vehicle for flavour! As it absorbs and holds flavour so well. Cauliflower is a great source of fibre, vitamin C, B,A,K and Folate.
Cauliflower is super versatile and can be used to replace many grains and legumes. Try Cauliflower versions of mash, pizza base, rice, hummus, flat bread and more.
Preserving the Harvest
Cauliflower can be frozen to add to soups and stocks. To prepare the Cauliflower, rinse and remove the stalks. The stalks will take longer to cook so I like to freeze them separately. Blanch the Cauliflower in boiling water for 40seconds – 1minute then add to a bowl of iced water. Cut the stalks into slices or cubes and blanch for 2 minutes and then add to the ice water until completely cool. Shake off the excess water and add to freezer bags or ziplock bags. Try to remove as much of the air from the bags as possible to reduce freezer burn. Keep frozen and use within 6 months. The stems can also be pickled and stored in the refrigerator.
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) is a hearty winter vegetable that provides large yields of nutritious food that can be used in so many ways! Growing your own Broccoli at home means you will have nutrient-rich veggies but you will also get access to all the extra parts of the plant such as the leaves and the stem that are both edible and delicious. Broccoli is easy to grow and can be grown in containers or garden beds. They are heavy feeders and can be susceptible to bugs such as caterpillars, slugs, and snails
Fertilise fortnightly with organic seaweed solutions.
PESTS
Watch out for slugs, snails, aphids and caterpillars.
HARVEST
8- 12 weeks. Harvest before the head starts separating.
REPRODUCE
Seed pods appear after the head goes to flower.
Broccoli Varieties
De Cicco – Traditional Italian Broccoli. Harvest the central head first to promote vigorous side shoots for up to 6 months.
Waltham – A popular Farmers’ Market variety forms large heads. High yields. Very cold tolerant. Great all purpose variety. Pick side shoots for up to 3 months.
Green Sprouting Broccoli – An Italian variety, the blue-green head is followed by `broccolini type’ side shoots that can be harvested for up to 3 months. Harvest main head 9 weeks.
Purple Sprouting Broccoli – Green stalks with small to medium-sized purple heads that are ideal for stir-frying or steaming. Purple colour is reduced when cooked. The plant continues producing small heads after each pick. Very nutritious.
Romanesco – Large pale green heads with an attractive spiralling pattern that grow to 20cm. Very tender and excellent flavour. Does best in cooler weather. This variety is often eaten raw and is very attractive in salads but can also be cooked with only a small loss of flavour.
Kailaan – Long succulent stems topped with compact broccoli heads that open to white flowers. All parts, even the leaves, are good eating. The taste is sweet to start, then the mustard flavor comes through. Excellent steamed, in stir-fries and laksas. Can be planted close together as its upright narrow habit grows well en masse. Harvest the whole plant. Heat tolerant. Fast-growing.
How to Grow Broccoli
Broccoli likes cool temperatures and a full sun location. Broccoli is a heavy feeder so much sure your soil is topped up with compost and try to plant your Broccoli in a different area of the garden each year to help the soil replenish the nutrients. Broccoli grows best in rich, moist soil with a soil pH between 6.0 and 7. Broccoli can grow quite large with big leaves so plant your seedlings about 40- 50cm apart in compost-rich soil, water in your seedlings directly after planting. Add a layer of mulch to keep the soil protected and moisture in. Depending on the variety Broccoli will be ready to harvest in 2-3 months.
When to Plant Broccoli
Broccoli is a cool weather plant so you typically want to be harvesting your Broccoli during winter. However, in some climates it can be grown all year round. The key is to have the broccoli floreats ready during cooler temperatures so that they dont bolt and go straight to flower. There are many varieties available and some that can tolerate warmer weather. Sow your seeds in the last few months of Summer or during Autumn so that your Broccoli plants are ready to harvest over winter.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep the plants well-watered on warm days. Water the plant at the base to avoid excess water pooling in the leaves and causing rot. For an extra boost you can feed your plants with a liquid seaweed solution every 2-3 weeks.
Pests / Disease
Broccoli is a prime target for white butterflies and caterpillars. Check your plants regularly by lifting the leaves and checking for caterpillars or larvae and remove. A barrier of crushed eggshells or a small container of beer can help keep the slugs and snails away especially while the plants are young and delicate. Plant a few extras throughout your garden and you will be sure to have more than enough Broccoli to eat! Click here for more natural pest management to help keep the pests at bay.
How/ When to Harvest
Depending on the variety Broccoli will be ready to harvest in 50-80days. The Broccoli head should have tightly packed buds and not have started going to flower. Once the little buds start going to flower you will want to harvest ASAP as the flowers will be quite bitter in flavour. To harvest your Broccoli cut the stem on a slight angle using a sharp knife. This will allow more broccoli heads to sprout off the main trunk over the next few weeks and you will get extra Broccoli! The angled cut will allow water to drain off so the main stem so it won’t rot. You can also harvest the younger leaves and use them in cooking as extra greens. Once you have harvested the side sprouts you can remove the plant and use up the rest of the stem and leaves.
Reproducing / Saving Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be saved after letting one of the Broccoli florets go to flower and seed. Yellow flowers will appear and then after that, seed pods will form. Once they have dried off you can harvest all the seed pods. The Broccoli seeds can be removed from the dried pods and stored to replant the following season. Save the seeds in a cool, dry, dark space.
Cooking and Using Broccoli
Broccoli is such a hearty vegetable and can provide nutritious and filling meals. Broccoli can be used in so many ways such as raw in a salad, roasted, grilled, steamed, stirfried, and added to any curry or soup. Broccoli is a great source of fibre and protein. Plus it contains iron, potassium, calcium, selenium and magnesium as well as the vitamins A, C, E, K and B vitamins including folic acid.
Preserving the Harvest
Broccoli can be frozen to add to soups and stocks. To prepare the Broccoli, rinse and remove the stalks. The stalks will take longer to cook so I like to freeze them separately. Blanch the Broccoli in boiling water for 40seconds – 1minute then add to a bowl of iced water. Cut the stalks into slices or cubes and blanch for 2 minutes and then add to the ice water until completely cool. Shake off the excess water and add to freezer bags or ziplock bags. Try to remove as much of the air from the bags as possible to reduce freezer burn. Keep frozen and use within 6 months. The stems can also be pickled and stored in the refrigerator.
Rainbow chard is a standout plant in the garden with its vibrant coloured stems and lush green leaves. Chard is super easy to grow and will produce an abundance of edible leaves quickly. You can harvest the outer leaves as you need them and the plant will continue to produce more. This powerhouse vegetable is packed full of vitamins and minerals and can be used in many dishes. It is so versatile!
Watch out for slugs, snails, aphids and caterpillars.
HARVEST
8 + weeks. Harvest outer leaves throughout the season.
REPRODUCE
Biannual. Seed pods appear from a central flowers in the second year of growth.
Rainbow Chard
Rainbow Chard or Swiss Chard is actually part of the Beetroot family – Beta vulgaris. Although Rainbow Chard doesn’t form a root-like beetroot, it does have beautiful lush leaves with colourful stems. Rainbow chard is a staple crop to grow because it produces a lot of food on just a couple of plants. It also adds beautiful colour to your garden and dishes during the winter months.
How to Grow Rainbow Chard
Rainbow Chardlikes cool temperatures and a sunny location. It will also grow in dappled shade at a slower rate which can be good because it is such a generous plant. This slower growth can be a strategic move if you want to plant multiple colour varieties and not be overwhelmed with too much produce. Rainbow Chard grows best in rich, moist soil with a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Plant your seeds or seedlings about 30cm apart in compost-rich soil, and water your seed or seedlings directly after planting. You can direct sow seeds in location or plant them in trays and transplant them when they have produced their first 4 leaves.
When to Plant Rainbow Chard
Rainbow chard can be grown all year round in some climates. It is usually best to grow Rainbow Chard over Autumn and winter as it does not like hot weather. Sow your seeds in the last few months of Summer or during Autumn. Choose a sunny location to plant your Rainbow Chard. You may get away with growing chard over summer if you plant it in a cool shaded area of your garden. In warm weather, the chard leaves will go limp and may get burnt or bolt and go straight to seed. Here in Perth, our summers tend to be too hot for Rainbow Chard but I have had success growing it in shaded areas and making sure it receives water in the mornings. Rainbow chard can handle some frosts.
Care/ Maintenance
Rainbow Chard grows in such abundance so it is best to pick the outer leaves regularly. Keep the plants well-watered on warm days.
Pests / Disease
Chard is pretty hardy against pests but slugs, snails and slatters can be a problem, especially while the plants are young. Plant a few extras throughout your garden and you will be sure to have more than enough chard to eat! Click here for more natural pet management to help keep the pests at bay.
Reproducing / Saving Seeds
Chard seeds can be saved but they usually will only go to seed after their second season as they are Biennial crops. Once the weather gets too hot they will send up flowers and these will turn to seeds. Save the seeds and keep them in a cool, dry, dark space to plant the following Autumn.
Cooking and using Rainbow Chard
Rainbow chard not only brings colour to the garden, but also to the plate. Use chard leaves just like spinach and the colourful stems can be stir-fried, sautéed or even pickled. Add Rainbow Chard to the end of any meal such as curry, soup, stir-fry, omelette or in a salad. Just like spinach, chard cooks down to a small amount so don’t be afraid to add in a little extra. The leaves can be blanched and used to make wraps or dolmades. The Rainbow Chard leaves can be added to pesto. Sautéed Rainbow Chard in butter and garlic makes a quick and easy side dish.
Preserving the Harvest
Rainbow Chard can be frozen to add to soups and stocks. To prepare the Chard, rinse the leaves and remove the stalks. The stalks will take longer to cook so I like to freeze them separately. Blanch the leaves in boiling water for 40seconds – 1minute then add to a bowl of iced water. Do the same with the stalks but blanch for 2 minutes and then add to the ice water until completely cool. Shake off the excess water and add to freezer bags or ziplock bags. Try to remove as much of the air from the bags as possible to reduce freezer burn. Keep frozen and use within 6 months. The colourful stems can also be pickled and stored in the refrigerator. Another way to use up your harvest is to make pesto and freeze it in ice cubes. This is great to add extra greens to a dish or for a small serving of pesto for entertaining.
Lemon trees make an amazing addition to any edible garden. They produce in abundance and are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow. They can also be easily grown in pots so are a great choice for urban gardens or renters. Lemons are powerhouses of flavour and such a versatile fruit.
Lemons can be used for desserts, salad dressings, condiments and even cleaning products.
