Wondering whether to plant a dwarf or standard fruit tree? This guide breaks down the differences, wind resistance, harvesting, and space requirements for home gardeners. As someone who grows a lot of fruit trees in a small space…dwarf fruit trees are something I use intentionally in my urban permaculture garden but…
There are some big misconceptions when it comes to dwarf fruit trees.
Dwarf and semi-dwarf fruit trees allow me to fit more varieties into my urban food forest and reduce the amount of work I need to do in terms of pruning … because when you’re looking after 100s of trees, this makes a difference! But not all dwarf fruit trees are equal!
Over the years, I’ve realised that a lot of people misunderstand what “dwarf fruit trees” actually means. So in this post, I want to break it down:
What does a dwarf fruit tree really mean?
How do they differ from semi‑dwarf and standard trees?
How to decide if dwarf or standard fruit trees are best for your garden?
What are other ways to keep fruit trees smaller?
Do standard fruit trees live longer?
What Do “Dwarf Fruit Trees” Actually Mean?
When we talk about dwarf fruit trees, we’re not talking about a different type of fruit.
We’re talking about the rootstock.
If you get, for example, a Meyer lemon, it might come in dwarf, semi-dwarf, and standard. The actual Meyer lemon tree and genetics are the same across all 3.
The fruit will be the same size, same colour, same flavour, the leaves the same, everything is genetically the same.
The difference is that they are all grafted onto a different rootstock.
Rootstocks are usually seed-grown or cloned for specific traits.
Dwarf rootstocks grow slowly, and the root systems are smaller and less vigorous. This means the trees stay small and dwarfed. Standard sizes, however, will utilise a rootstock that grows vigorously to get big, quick-growing fruit trees.
This does affect the amount of fruit you can get! A 3-4m tree will be able to hold a lot more fruit than a compact 1m tree.
Why “Dwarf” Doesn’t Mean “Tiny Forever”
One of the biggest misconceptions is that dwarf fruit trees stay small automatically. This is not always the case:
In reality, dwarf trees are smaller than standard trees..
But they still grow….
…and they still benefit from pruning and management!
This is especially important with larger fruit tree species.
For example:
A dwarf lemon might mature around 2 metres tall
But a dwarf avocado or mango can still reach 4–5 metres
The difference is how fast they get there.
A standard avocado can shoot well over 5 metres in just a few years, and then reach 8+ m once mature. While a dwarf avocado grows much more slowly and predictably, which makes it far easier to manage in a home garden or food forest. On the downside, restricted, slow growth may not be the right fit for you. You may want to have your tree grow quickly, create shade cover, and then maintain it at the desired height by regular pruning. It all depends on your goals!
Dwarf vs Semi‑Dwarf vs Standard
There are pros and cons to both dwarf and non-dwarf fruit trees…So how do you decide which is right for you?
Super Dwarf and Dwarf Fruit Trees
Super Dwarf Stonefruit: There is a small collection of fruit trees classed as “super dwarf”, such as the super dwarf nectarine and peach trees. I have one of each, and they are said to grow to 1.5m tall. Their growth has been very slow! Only growing a few inches in a season compared to my dwarf nectarine, which grew over 1m in a season. These would be great for pots and people with very small spaces. I am also using them in my food forest to grow in the low – middle layers.
Dwarf Citrus: Again, these can be very slow growing – I have a dwarf lime that is about 1.5m tall at 8 years old. Great for pots or small spaces, but very slow-growing!
Dwarf Stonefruit: These are great for urban gardens and pots. Stonefruit such as peach, apricot and plum trees can grow rapidly and require heavy pruning to shape them. Dwarf stonefruit still grows pretty fast and will need pruning from a young age to shape, but a little less aggressively, which is nice! All the stonefruit that i grow in my urban garden are on dwarf rootstock.
Dwarf Mango: Unlike other fruit trees, dwarf mango trees are usually more about a variety that is slow-growing and not the rootstock. Dwarf Mangos may still get to 5+m tall if left unpruned, but it could take them over 10 years to get there. Slower growth may mean you only need to prune them every other year or so.
Dwarf Avocado: Dwarf Avocados, like mango, can still grow to be a very large tree if left unpruned. Slower growth rates will allow you to prune less aggressively to keep them compact.
Dwarf Mulberry: You may be surprised to hear that dwarf Mulberries can also grow to be large trees! Slower growth rates will help to keep them smaller. Regular pruning as the mulberry fruit well on new growth.
Dwarf Banana: Full-sized banana racks that you can reach without climbing a huge ladder! The shorter varieties get less battered by wind.
Semi Dwarf Fruit Trees
I love semi dwarf fruit trees as they grow faster than a dwarf but not as intensively as a standard. A productive, happy medium if you are prepared to prune. For citrus, I would recommend selecting a semi-dwarf, even for a pot. Like my semi-dwarf Lemonade Tree pictured below! Productive but still manageable. Faster growing and stronger root systems, but still manageable. Larger trees like avocado and mango, I like selecting the dwarf varieties.
Standard Fruit Trees
Standard fruit trees do not hold back. They can get to their mature height within a few years if left unpruned. This also means you can get quick shade and abundant harvests a lot faster! Bigger roots = bigger trees = more fruit.
Great if size is not a problem and you don’t mind a regular pruning routine. After all, pruning can be turned into mulch to feed your garden.
The downside is that if they do get very large and tall, it can make maintaining them a lot harder (or more expensive). Fruit that may be too hard to reach, trees cannot be netted, and then they attract unwanted pests and diseases.
Did you know dwarf fruit trees may not live as long as a standard? Due to their root restrictions dwarf fruit trees may live 10-20 years compared to a stanadard that may live 30+ years!
Dwarf vs Non-Dwarf Bananas
What’s the Difference?
Bananas are often grouped into “dwarf” and “non-dwarf” types, but the key difference isn’t fruit size…It’s plant height and manageability.
Dwarf bananas typically grow around 2–3.5m tall
Non-dwarf bananas can reach 4–7m+
Despite the size difference, both can produce similar-sized bunches. The real impact is how they perform in your garden’s conditions.
Wind Resistance
Wind is one of the biggest challenges when growing bananas.
Dwarf varieties are shorter and more compact, making them far more stable in strong winds. They’re less likely to snap, lean, or topple…especially important in exposed gardens.
Non-dwarf varieties grow tall with large, sail-like leaves. This makes them much more vulnerable to wind damage, particularly when carrying heavy fruit. They often need shelter or support to prevent falling over. The size and amount of the bananas produced are determined throughout the whole growing period. shredded leaves = less sun captured, which can result in smaller bunches of bananas.
Harvesting
Harvesting is where dwarf bananas really stand out for home gardeners.
Dwarf bananas produce fruit at a reachable height, making harvesting simple, safe, and ladder-free.
Non-dwarf bananas Harvesting often requires ladders or tools, and heavy bunches can be awkward and risky to manage.
Other ways to Keep Fruit Trees Smaller?(Size Control Beyond Rootstock)
Marcotting (Air Layering)
Marcotting, also known as air layering, is a method where a branch is encouraged to grow roots while still attached to the parent tree. Once roots have formed, that branch is cut off and planted as its own tree.
Why this matters for size control:
Marcotted trees grow on their own roots, not a vigorous seed-grown rootstock
They tend to be less vigorous than grafted standard trees because they have no tap root
The tree often stays smaller and easier to manage
Many tropical and subtropical fruit trees respond very well to this method
Commonly marcotted trees include:
citrus (bush types)
lychee
longan
fig
mulberry
Marcotting doesn’t create a true “dwarf” tree in the commercial sense, but it often results in a naturally compact, slower-growing tree… especially compared to seed-grown or standard-grafted trees.
Regular Pruning – To Control the Size
This is one of the most overlooked truths about fruit trees: Tree size is something you manage over time. Even a standard fruit tree can be kept small with:
consistent pruning
removing vertical leaders
encouraging horizontal growth
Pruning little and often is far easier than letting a tree grow huge and trying to cut it back later. This approach is commonly used in: backyard orchards, food forests, and espalier systems. Pruning in late summer or autumn after a tree has finished fruiting can help keep the size down.
But…. some trees can mean you do more pruning than it is worth it. This is a personal decision, but I have removed trees for this exact reason! My Mulberry tree was creating more work than I received in fruit, so I ended up removing it to plant something else.
Root Restriction – Containers & In-Ground Methods
Limiting root space naturally limits tree size. This can be done by:
Growing fruit trees in large pots
Planting in raised beds
using root barriers in the ground
While root restriction can reduce ultimate size, it does mean more attention to watering and more attention to soil health and nutrients.
Soil & Fertility Management
Highly fertile, heavily watered soil encourages fast, vigorous growth. In my garden, I have poor sandy soils and low rainfall, so that naturally slows down the growth rate.
Using natural gardening methods such as chop and drop, composting and worm castings will act as slow-release energy.
Synthetic commercial fertilisers can cause extreme growth rates or yields, which means the trees can grow faster than the roots can keep up with. Leading to snapped branches and damaged trees.
Climate and Conditions
Your climate and conditions can slow the rate of growth in fruit trees. Short summers or cool winters may mean tropical trees like avocado and mango only grow for short periods of the year. Other climates that have optimum conditions could mean the trees grow all year long, resulting in 2-3x faster growth.
Here in Perth, tropicals like Banana, Papaya and Mango slow down and stop growing during the colder winter months (they also lack water during our hot dry summers!). This means our tropical trees do not get as big as quickly as warmer, more tropical locations.
So… Which One Is Right for You?
Choosing between dwarf, semi‑dwarf, and standard fruit trees comes down to a few key questions:
How much space do you realistically have?
Do you want low‑maintenance or are you happy to prune regularly?
Are you growing in a food forest, backyard, or orchard setting?
Do you want faster, smaller harvests or larger harvests and long‑term canopy trees?
In my own garden, dwarf and semi‑dwarf trees allow me to grow more diversity, more fruit, and manage everything sustainably without spending every weekend pruning.
I tend to avoid dwarf citrus and select semi-dwarf for quicker growth and more fruit. I opt for dwarf Stonefruit, Mango and Avocados where possible.
There’s no single “best” option… just the best choice for your garden and lifestyle. But in smaller gardens where space is a huge consideration, dwarf and semi-dwarf can be a great way to go!
If you have any questions about growing dwarf fruit trees vs standard, let me know.
Don’t want to wait for homegrown fruits? Plant these 20 fast-growing fruits for quick harvests!
When you’re starting a food forest or edible garden from scratch, it can feel like the SLOWEST waiting game for your fruit trees to grow and start producing fruit…or just survive their first few summers!! That’s why I love planting fast-growing, early-yielding fruits and perennials that bring quick shade, soil life, and harvests while the slower long-term trees mature.
After 10+ years of gardening in a hot climate like Perth, I’ve learned that success comes down to three simple things:
🌿 Plant densely 🌿 Focus on perennials 🌿 Grow living shade
Because when plants are left exposed and spaced too far apart, they struggle. But when you fill your garden with layers? Everything grows faster, healthier… and with far less effort. And what do I mean by fast? Fruiting within 12 – 24 months!
This guide is based on what I grow in my urban food forest here in Perth, Australia, which is a zone 10b.
Why Fast-Growing Fruit Trees Matter in a Food Forest
In a natural system, bare soil doesn’t last long. Something will always move in to cover it, whether that’s grass, weeds… or plants you actually want. Fast-growing fruiting plants act as your “in-between” layer while your main trees establish.
They help to:
Shade the soil and reduce water loss
Protect young trees from harsh sun and wind
Feed the soil through leaf drop and chop-and-drop
Attract pollinators and beneficial insects
Think of them as your support system…not just quick fruiting plants (but yay bonus!). Many of these are temporary or short-term plants in your garden.
You can: 👉 Chop them back 👉 Take cutting or seeds, then move them 👉 Or remove them completely
…once your long-term trees take over.
20 Fast-Growing Fruit Trees and Plants for Quick Harvests
These fast-growing fruit trees and plants are perfect for filling space in a young food forest while your long-term trees establish. Many will start producing within the first year or two, while also helping to create shade, build soil, and support the overall system. Some will become permanent features in your garden, while others can be pruned, moved, reproduced, or replaced as your space evolves.
1. Banana or Plantain (Musa spp.)
I LOVE growing Bananas in my edible garden. Bananas create an instant canopy and lush tropical vibes within months. They love warm conditions, and their large leaves provide shade, living mulch, and plenty of biomass for chop-and-drop. With the right moisture and feeding, you can harvest fruit within 12–18 months of planting.
I prefer to grow smaller dwarf varieties (dwarf ducasse, dwarf red dacca, and dwarf cavendish) that produce quicker and don’t grow as tall to get damaged by the wind. My plantain Bananas (Pacific Plantain) took exactly 2 years for their first bunch, but that clump will produce much faster now that there is an established rhizome.
2. Papaya (Carica papaya)
Papayas are your value-for-money fast-growing fruit! They start producing quickly, often producing ripe fruit in just 9–12 months from seed. They produce A LOT OF FRUIT on a single plant, and you can regrow 100s more from the seeds. I have grown all mine from seed!
The fast, upright growth provides light shade for young understorey plants. Perfect for filling sunny gaps while your long-term trees mature. I call these myumbrella plants! And having umbrella plants for a HOT SUMMER here in Perth is crucial! Plus, you can eat the fruits green like a vegetable or ripe as a fruit. I have found the key to success with Papaya is strength in numbers.
Planting from seed means you may get bisexual, female, or male plants. They can also be fickle and die off over winter, so having more options means you have backup.
3. Tamarillo (Solanum betaceum)
These fast-growing fruit trees will produce in as little as 12- 18 months and adds a splash of colour with their vibrant red or golden fruit.
Tamarillo isn’t a fan of super hot sun and is best as a middle layer – so it’s great to grow under the dappled light or larger trees such as Mulberry or Banana. Or if you have a shady part of the garden and you are not sure what to grow! I also grow these from seed so that I can have backups.
They are very easy to grow from seed, just like their family members – the tomatoes. Cold snaps or extreme heat can kill off plants quickly. Tamarillo is also known as the tree tomato. Their tart fruits can be eaten fresh and are delicious with ice cream, yoghurt or in an apple crumble! They can also be used savoury in fresh chutneys and sauces. I love growing fruits that can be used in both sweet and savoury dishes. This helps a food forest be twice as productive!
4. Mulberry (Morus spp.)
Mulberries are absolute powerhouses of rapid growth and heavy yields, and are perfect for planting over chicken coops. They grow easily from cuttings and often fruit in their first season.
Mulberries fruit in Spring, which can be a lean time for fruits. Their broad leaves create valuable summer shade. Mulberries are deciduous, so they drop their leaves in winter for lots of garden mulch. As a result, they are often grown next to animal paddocks and chicken coops to offer summer shade and a bonus food source.
🚨 Mulberries do grow rapidly and have large, vast root systems, which can be hard to maintain in a small urban garden. I have used these as quick shade to help my gardens establish and then removed within 2 years (not easily with large roots!).
5. Cape Gooseberry (Physalis peruviana)
A quick win for any garden, these fruit in as little as 4–6 months from seed. Cape Gooseberry self-seeds, is easy to grow, and thrives in hot, dry climates. They produce golden, tangy berries that are perfect for snacking or jam-making. But…mostly, they don’t make it out of the garden! The plants are compact and usually stay under 1m tall.
6. Passionfruit (Passiflora edulis)
Passionfruit are rapid growers! Racing up fences and trellises to provide privacy and summer shade. If you purchase a plant from cuttings (most store-bought are from cuttings) they can fruit in their first summer, if not the second!
Seed grown will usually be 2-3 years to fruit. Passionfruit are ideal for utilising vertical space to grow more fruits. There are many different varieties, and having different types can extend your season.
I always suggest AVOIDING GRAFTED VARIETIES. Especially here in Perth. They are not needed, and the rootstock can easily get away from you and send up suckers 100s of metres away.
A fast, compact shrub that usually fruits in the first year from cutting grown. Producing bright red berries packed with vitamin C and can produce multiple sets of fruit throughout the year. Drought-tolerant once established and great for small gardens or food forest edges.
A great option for a tropical cherry-like fruit in warm climates. They have beautiful pink flowers that are amazing for attracting pollinators, too. They are easy to grow from cuttings to add in hot spots of your garden to get quick shade and fruit!
8. Brazilian Cherry (Eugenia uniflora)
This tough, evergreen shrub grows quickly, and with glossy, dense leaves, it would make a beautiful edible hedge. Fruits within 1–2 years, often multiple times a year in warm climates. The deep red fruits are tart-sweet and a magnet for birds and bees. It can also be grown as a middle-layer shrub. They grow easily from seed or cutting to multiply throughout the garden.
9. Guava (Psidium guajava & Psidium cattleyanum)
A resilient, quick-establishing fruit tree that’s highly productive within 1–3 years. Guavas handle pruning well, making them easy to shape for compact gardens. They are hardy, and their dense canopy provides valuable shade and leaf litter for mulch. Great for making smoothie bowls or fruit leather!
🚨 In some states and countries, Psidium cattleyanum (cherry guava)self-seeds easily and is spread by birds and are considered a pest. That is not the case here in Perth, but check with your local biosecurity.
10. Feijoa / Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana)
This Kiwi’s favourite fruit! Feijoas are both ornamental and edible with silver-green foliage, stunning flowers, and delicious autumn fruit. The KEY is choosing a named variety/ grafted variety for quality fruit that starts producing in the first year.
Feijoas are fast to establish and low-maintenance, and they make excellent edible hedges.
They are also said to have fire-retardant qualities. Usually, they fruit abundantly within 2–3 years. I prune these back by 1/3 each year to create mulch for my garden. The seedling “generic” ones can take more like 5-6 years to fruit.
11. Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica)
A hardy evergreen and fast-growing fruit tree (especially grafted trees). Loquats flower in late winter and fruit in early spring, bringing colour and food in an “in-between” time. Their lush canopy and year-round foliage make them excellent habitat trees.
They do grow very quickly and very large, so they can be hard to maintain in an urban garden. I’m growing mine in a pot, but it would be best to keep them small and well-pruned so you can bag or net the fruits. The fruits are sweet and taste kind of like a mix of pear, mango and apricot!
🚨 In some states and countries, theyself-seed easily and are spread by birds and are considered a pest. That is not the case here in Perth, but check with your local biosecurity.
12. Fig (Ficus carica)
Few fruit trees grow faster and produce more than figs. They can bear fruit in their second year and love hot, dry conditions. Their dense canopy provides shade in summer, and being deciduous, their leaves provide organic matter.
One thing that surprised me about figs is the huge range of flavours with different varieties. From the sweet, honey-like yellow figs to the strawberry jam flavours. SO MUCH BETTER than any store-bought fig. Figs also grow well in pots and containers for urban gardens. They can have very strong root systems, so it is important to consider that when planting. Avoid planting them close to structures or pavings.
13. Ice Cream Bean (Inga edulis)
A nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing fruit tree that grows incredibly fast, adding instant shade and biomass. They produce long, sweet pods filled with cottony, vanilla-flavoured pulp. Ideal as a pioneer species to improve soil fertility, create quick shade and microclimates. Ice-cream beans are fast growers and can grow to 8m, so they can be better suited to those with plenty of space or who are happy to regularly prune for garden mulch.
14. Strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa)
A classic quick win for any edible garden! Strawberries fruit within months and spread easily to fill bare soil. Perfect as an edible groundcover or on the edges of your garden beds. They help to shade the soil and retain moisture. Their flowers attract pollinators and their fruit… make the best garden snacks! 🍓
15. Dragon Fruit (Hylocereus spp.)
A fast-growing climbing cactus that can start fruiting within 1–2 years in warm climates. It’s perfect for growing vertically on a trellis, fence, or post, helping you maximise space in a young food forest. Dragon fruit comes in many colours and flavours, making it a collector’s dream! It is important to have a sturdy trellis ready for these fast growers.
16. Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
A fast-growing tropical plant that produces edible calyxes within just a few months. Rosella thrives in warm climates and is perfect for teas, syrups, and jams, adding both colour and diversity to your garden. It also grows into a productive, shrubby plant that helps fill space and build biomass. Part of the hibiscus family it is both ornamental and edible!
17. Melons (Watermelon, Rockmelon, Honeydew)
Melons are fast-growing, sprawling plants that can produce fruit within a single season. They quickly cover bare soil, helping to suppress weeds and retain moisture while your garden is still establishing.
In hot climates, they thrive with plenty of sun and make a rewarding, high-yield addition to summer gardens. You can also grow melons vertically to save space and add more shade to your summer gardens.
18. Blackberries / Brambles (Rubus spp.)
Blackberries are vigorous, fast-growing brambles that can produce fruit within their first or second season. They spread easily and can quickly fill vertical space along fences or trellises, creating a productive edible barrier – it is important to grow them in contained beds. While they can be a bit wild if left unmanaged, regular pruning keeps them productive and makes harvesting much easier. If you choose a thornless variety like “Chester” or similar, they do not sucker or send runners as vigorously as the traditional blackberries.
19. Lemonade Tree (Sweet Lemon Variety)
A lemonade tree is a great option if you want a citrus that produces in abundance at a young age! and more reliably in warm climates. These sweet, low-acid lemons can often fruit from a young age, especially when grafted, and are incredibly productive once established. They also add structure to your garden while still giving you relatively quick harvests compared to other fruit trees.
20. Pepino Melon (Solanum muricatum)
This low-growing perennial fruits within months, producing juicy, melon-flavoured fruit. It’s perfect as an understorey groundcover or filler plant in young gardens. Quick to root from cuttings and thrives in partial shade beneath taller trees.
🚨Here in Perth, they are a host plant to spider mites (that thrive in hot, dry climates), so always be wary when purchasing them and keep an eye out in your garden. Unfortunately, they are no longer something I grow due to this, but I do love them!
Fast-Growing Fruit Trees Are the Key to a Thriving Food Forest
If you’re starting a food forest, it’s easy to feel like everything is taking too long, but the secret isn’t to wait…. It’s to plant your way through that waiting period.
Fast-growing fruit trees and plants aren’t just about quick harvests; they’re about building a system that supports itself over time. They create shade, protect your soil, and help your long-term trees establish faster, and before you know it, what once felt slow starts to become abundant, layered, and productive.
The key to success in my high-density gardens is to give my long-term crops, such as Mango and Avocado, the most amount of space. Then I go in with these fast-growing fruit trees and plants so that I can offer shade and protection, as well as eventually mulch when I prune them or chop them out completely.
I hope this list offers you some ideas and inspiration to add to your garden for some quick wins! Are you growing any of these in your garden? I would love to know.
Grass is one of the biggest challenges when turning a backyard into a productive food forest. Instead of constantly fighting it, I’ve developed a simple strategy to stop grass growing and gradually transform the lawn into thriving garden spaces.
If you’ve ever felt like you’re failing because grass keeps popping up in your garden beds… you’re not alone. When I first started gardening, I thought success meant having perfectly clean, grass-free beds. But over time, I realised something important:
👉 Grass isn’t the problem …it’s actually playing an important role.
And once you understand why it’s growing, you can actually make your garden a place where grass struggles… and your plants thrive. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how I’ve gone from grass-filled garden beds to low-maintenance, mostly grass-free systems…without chemicals or constant weeding or chemicals.
I’ve managed to get two of my garden beds to be pretty much grass-free from this strategy. So, I want to share it with you so that you can start working on it in your garden as well, and not feel like you are failing. If you prefer to watch, check out the full video below.
Why Grass Keeps Growing in Your Garden Beds
You may be able to see in some of my videos or photos that I do have grass growing in some of my garden beds. And it’s not something I’m worried or stressed about because I know I’ve got plans in place that are going to help me manage that long term. I have transformed two of my main food forest garden beds from half-full of grass to almost zero grass!
It’s really important to figure out some of the key factors on what grass needs to grow and thrive so that we can flip that and make it a less desirable environment for grass to grow, so that we can slow it down while we wait for our long-term strategy to kick in.
Grass is a pioneer plant. It shows up first. It covers the soil to try and protect it, try and get things to grow. So it does have an important role in the garden. Grass likes two key things: SUNLIGHT & FREE DRAINING SOIL. My hot, open front yard is prime growing conditions for grass to thrive! So if we know what grass likes, we can FLIP IT and make a less desirable environment for grass.
Roots in the ground are always better than dry, bare soil. Grass is quick to turn sunlight and water into available sugars as well as provide shade and habitat for beneficial soil microbes and insects. But some of us do prefer grass-free garden beds…so how do we start to slow down the grass growth and eliminate it FOREVER? 👉 Let’s talk about my 2-phase grass suppression strategy.
My Easy Two-Phase Grass Suppression Strategy
Stopping grass growing in your garden beds isn’t going to happen overnight, but with a plan and some patience, you can have grass-free gardens bursting with edible plants. There are TWO key parts to the plan!A long-term strategy and some short-term solutions to get started with while you wait for the long-term strategy to kick in. They both work together to create one solution: no grass in your garden beds!
1. Long-term Strategy to Stop Grass
We know that grass likes sunlight, so the long-term plan is to block all sunlight reaching the ground level of your garden beds. We do this by:
Growing a tall dense canopy – this is your long-term tree crops, for me this is Avocado and Mango, but for you, it could be whatever tall trees your heart desires! These trees can take YEARS to reach a height and size that will block light to the ground, which is why we also have our short-term solutions (which we will touch on soon).
Growing multiple layers of plants – To help block the light from getting to the ground, you can create layers like a forest does. Grass rarely grows in a forest, and if it does, it is usually where tall canopy trees have fallen or been removed to let sunlight in! This means planting shorter shrubs and ground covers to add more density and let less light to the ground level.
Build rich organic soil – have you ever noticed grass or weeds come out much easier in good soil than hard or dry compact soil? Grass is not only easier to remove in rich soil, but it can also slow down the growth.
2. Short-term Solutions to Stop Grass – fast
Once we have our long-term strategy in place and our tall canopy trees planted, what can we do quickly to slow down and suppress grass growing while we wait for those trees to grow? The key is to ALWAYS COVER AND SHADE THE SOIL.
Effective and quick ways to cover and shade the soil to suppress grass?
Use cardboard (with no sticky tape), newspaper or other natural products to cover the soil. This is something I would only do when starting a brand-new garden from scratch. It gives your plants time to grow before the grass gets through.
Layers of mulch – different types of mulch will break down at different rates. I often use two different types of mulch to add nutrition and suppress grass. Options like pea straw and lupin will break down fast, so these usually get added first, then a harder woodchip type mulch on top of that.
Chop & Drop – putting mulch on once and then leaving it will almost always result in the grass growing through. That is why I love using plants in my garden to regularly “chop & drop” to add new layers. In summer, I use quick-growing plants like Queensland Arrowroot, Autumn is when I prune many of my fruit trees and turn this into mulch, then in winter i use brassica leaves or bug-eaten leaves from my annual veggie patch. Using different plants will help give a range of nutrients to your soil. Adding layers of mulch and chop and drop will not only suppress the light but also start building rich organic soil to help your main plants and trees thrive and outgrow the grass!
Add barriers or edging – this can slow down the grass, especially if your garden borders on to the lawn. There is a huge range of things from hardscape elements such as bricks, pavers and metal edging to natural elements such as clumping grasses or plants, logs and even banana trunks!
Grow groundcovers – planting dense and hardy ground covers will act as another layer to block the light. Hardy ground covers are best so that you can add extra mulch or chop and drop straight on top of them and not worry about killing them off.
Outplant it with high-density planting – this is my favourite way to suppress grass! In my annual raised veggie patch, I will plant out my main crops first with enough space, e.g., broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower etc then I will go in and sprinkle seeds in ALL OF THE GAPS! Things like lettuce, radish, carrots, herbs and edible flowers don’t need as much light and can be grown in tight spaces. This blocks the light from reaching the soil and slows down grass and weeds. I take this same approach in my food forest and edible gardens by planting short-term crops in all the gaps. These will be things like: herbs, flowers, Queensland arrowroot, papaya, banana or pigeon pea.
Stop grass from going to seed – regularly trimming the edges and maintaining the grass BEFORE it goes to seed will help stop grasses or weeds from spreading further and making your job harder than it needs to be.
Removing runners and grass periodically – Removing grass or trimming before adding fresh mulch can be a good idea, especially in a young garden. Grass that has not gone to seed can be cut using a whipper snipper or weed eater to create mulch too!
In a natural system, grass is just the beginning…not the end
If there’s one thing to remember, it’s this: Stopping grass in your garden beds isn’t a one-time job… It’s a long-term strategy.
You’re not trying to remove it all at once with nasty chemicals. You’re slowly changing the conditions, so it no longer wants to grow there. Every layer of mulch, every plant you add, every bit of shade you create… It’s all part of that bigger plan.
And yes… it takes time. But while your trees establish and your system fills in, your short-term actions are already making a difference. You’re slowing the grass down, building better soil, and making it easier to manage along the way.
So don’t worry if your garden isn’t grass-free yet 👉 It doesn’t have to be perfect… it just has to be moving in the right direction.
Your home garden can do more than just look nice… You can grow your own groceries and boost your homegrown food security!
With rising food prices and a growing desire for self-sufficiency, growing your own groceries has never been more important. Keep reading to see what to grow in your home garden to replace supermarket staples, from natural sweeteners, salt and pepper, protein-rich legumes, to fresh herbs, healthy fats, and easy-to-harvest fruits and vegetables.
Whether you have a small balcony, a suburban backyard, or a larger food forest, these plants will help you create a homegrown, chemical-free supply of staple crops to grow your own groceries! This guide is based on my garden in Perth, Australia, in a warm climate (zone 10b). :
Your Grow-Your-Own Grocery List
Grow Sugar and Sweeteners
Instead of buying refined sugar, these plants naturally sweeten your food. They’re easy to grow and provide fresh, chemical-free sweetness straight from your garden. Most ripe fruits will offer you natural sugars, but below are some of my top picks!
Plants to Grow for Sugar and Sweeteners:
Sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum) – accounts for about 80% of global sugar production. You can grow sugar cane at home and start producing juicy stalks of sugar!
Sugar Beets (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) – a cool-climate option for natural sugar; roots can be processed into sugar. Like a white beetroot but super sugary! BONUS: Leaves can also be used as a green.
Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) – a perennial herb; leaves can be used fresh or dried as a natural sweetener.
White Mulberry (Morus alba) – ripe berries taste like honey and sugar combined!
Yellow Figs (Ficus carica, Honey Fig) – yellow figs particularly are super sweet, soft, and perfect fresh or dried.
Bananas (Musa spp.) – ripe bananas can sweeten baking or be frozen and blended for natural ice cream.
Grapes (Vitis vinifera) – homegrown grapes are naturally sweet, like nature’s candy.
Pineapple (Ananas comosus) – homegrown pineapple is so sweet! Plus, they grow well in pots or indoors near a sunny window.
Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) – extremely drought-tolerant and produces sweet apple-like fruit that dries naturally into date-like sweets.
Melons (Cucumis melo / Citrullus lanatus) – if you have ever dehydrated watermelon, you would know just how sugary sweet it is! Vine-ripened watermelon, rockmelon, or honeydew melon are all very sweet options.
Grow Salt and Pepper
Yes! You can grow your own salt and pepper in the garden! These plants add salty or peppery flavour while being easy to grow.
Plants to Grow for Salt and Pepper:
Old Man Saltbush (Atriplex nummularia) – hardy Australian native with silvery leaves that are naturally salty! Excellent in salads and cooking. Hardy an ddrough tolerant shrub.
Seaberry Saltbush (Rhagodia candolleana) – red, slightly sweet and salty berries and salty leaves; great for cooking.
Peppervine (Tasmannia lanceolata) – produces Tasmanian peppercorns; berries can be harvested at different stages and dried for red, white, or black pepper.
Kawakawa (Piper excelsum) – NZ native; leaves and ripe orange (female) seeds can be dried for pepper!
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) – edible flowers and leaves with a natural peppery bite. The leaves pack more of a spicy punch, and the flowers have a nice, mild pepper flavour. The green seed pods can be pickled and made into “poor man capers”.
Rocket / Arugula (Eruca vesicaria) – fast-growing leafy green with a strong peppery flavour.
Grow Protein-Rich Plants
Legumes and other protein-rich plants are essential for a self-sufficient garden. They are easy to grow, nutritious, and have the added bonus of naturally improving soil fertility – to grow more food!
Plants to Grow for a Source of Protein:
Bush Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) – fast-growing, compact, and perfect for vertical gardening.
Perennial Beans / Madagascar Bean (Phaseolus coccineus) – also called the seven-year bean; keeps producing for many seasons.
Edamame / Soybean (Glycine max) – high protein with 12g of protein per 100g, similar to two eggs.
Pigeon Pea (Cajanus cajan) – edible pods can be eaten green or dried; nitrogen-fixing for healthy soil. One of my top support plants in the garden for mulch and food!
Peas (Pisum sativum) – eat pods and shoots; excellent garden snack for the cooler months.
Chickpeas (Cicer arietinum) – dry and store for long-term use.
Lentils (Lens culinaris) – nutritious and easy to store.
Broccoli and other Brassicas (Brassica oleracea) – surprisingly high in protein compared to many vegetables.
Grow Snacks and Fruit
Swap packaged snacks for fresh, garden-grown fruits. I love nothing more than a wander through the garden to find snacks!
Plants to Grow for Snacks:
Lemon Cherry Guava (Psidium cattleyanum) – sweet and compact. I love the yellow variety with sweet snackable fruit!
Berries – give us all the berries! Strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, kiwiberry, the list goes on!
Apples (Malus domestica) – a versatile staple base crop
Bananas (Musa spp.) – come with natural packaging, and homegrown bananas are so delicious!
Passionfruit (Passiflora edulis) – robust skin, easy to take with you on the go.
Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) – sweet, tangy fruit – tastes like a mix of apricot, pear and mango.
Mulberries (Morus spp.) – prolific and easy to harvest. Eat fresh off the tree as a garden snack.
Snap Peas (Pisum sativum) – crunchy and great for snacking. These never make it out of the garden! They are too delicious.
Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) – long-lasting root crop. Great to eat with some homemade hummus using your legumes!
Lebanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) – Snack- sized cucumbers are usually sweeter and crisper than store-bought ones because they can be harvested and eaten immediately.
Grow Healthy Fats
Healthy fats from plants are easy to grow and replace processed oils.
Plants to Grow for Healthy Fats and Oils:
Avocado (Persea americana) – high in monounsaturated fats. Delicious substitute for butter in many meals. I feel like having an avocado tree in the backyard is living rich 😆
Macadamia (Macadamia integrifolia) – slow to mature but productive for years.
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) – seeds for snacking, butter, or oil.
Almond (Prunus dulcis) – nutrient-dense and versatile.
Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) – peanuts are so fun and easy to grow in warm climates. They can also be grown in a pot or a container.
Olives (Olea europaea) – can be pressed for oil; collaborate with neighbours to share processing costs.
Grow Greens and Salad
Leafy greens are one of the easiest edibles to grow at home and replace pre-packaged salads! You don’t need a big garden, pots and containers work great too!
Plants to Grow for Greens and Salads:
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) – cut-and-come-again varieties for continuous harvest. Let one lettuce go to seed each year, and you will have an endless supply!
New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) – great edible ground cover, drought-tolerant, self-seeding greens. Great for soups, stir-fries, and curries.
Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla) – nutrient-dense and versatile. I love growing chard, especially rainbow chard, in my kitchen garden. The colours brighten up a winter garden! Plus, make easy one-ingredient preservative-free wraps!
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica) – robust, flavorful leaves. Kale gets a bad rap, but it is easy to grow, and its rough leaves and curls are amazing at holding on to flavour. So the key is to cook it or massage dressing into it for a salad!
Longevity Spinach (Gynura procumbens) – perennial, nutrient-rich, especially good for warm climates. Known for managing blood sugar and reducing inflammation.
Grow Carbs and Staples
Processed carbs aren’t necessary when you can grow your own and boost your homegrown food security. Root crops are one of the highest accumulators of herbicides and pesticides because they spend their whole life in the soil that is commercially sprayed with nasties. So if you want to replace supermarket food with spray-free veggies, I would have these high on my “to grow list”.
Plants to Grow for Carbs:
Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) – one of my top edible plants, it is sooo easy to grow, and once you grow sweet potato, you literally will never have to buy another plant ever again. To get started, you can grow from a store-bought by either placing it in soil or a jar of water to sprout. The leaves are also edible, which is always a bonus when talking about food security.
Pumpkin (Cucurbita spp.) – the great thing about pumpkins is that you can grow a bunch and then dry or cure them for long-term storage and use throughout the rest of the year.
Queensland Arrowroot (Canna edulis /indica) – another core plant in my garden because of the multiple uses! As a carbohydrate, it grows rhizomes under the ground that can be used as a substitute for potatoes. A perennial potato! You can also make flour to use in cooking and baking. But it is also great at providing shade, wind protection and the water-filled stems make amazing chop and drop mulch to feed the garden.
Potato (Solanum tuberosum) – a classic staple – you don’t need a lot of space to grow potatoes; they can be easily grown in tubs and containers. Perfect for small gardens.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – It is a nutrient-dense, low-calorie fruit, with most of its calories coming from these healthy carbohydrates. The amazing thing about papaya is that you get two options to eat it: green as a vegetable or ripe as a fruit, two for the price of one space in the garden!
Plantain (Musa paradisiaca) – offering a sustained energy release due to its high resistant starch and fibre content. Also, ripe plantains can still be eaten as bananas; they just aren’t as sugary.
Grow Flavour and Herbs
Instead of buying lifeless flavour from jars, grow your own and give your meals real freshness straight from the garden 🌿
Plants to Grow for Carbs:
Herbs – herbs are a powerhouse flavour enhancer. Fresh herbs are stronger and have more nutrients than the plain, processed dried herbs found in stores. Go outside and pick what you need fresh for each meal, or dehydrate and make your own natural blends of dried herbs.
Chilli (Capsicum spp.) – versatile flavour with a wide range of flavours and varieties. Also, make your own green and red curry pastes.
Onion (Allium cepa) – foundational flavour in so many dishes. Can be dried and stored.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale) – very medicinal and packs a punch of flavour. You can grow an amazing amount in a tub or container, too.
Garlic (Allium sativum) – staple culinary flavour! You can grow a bunch and dry to use throughout the year, or grow perennial forms of garlic flavour with garlic chives or society garlic flowers (Tulbaghia violacea)! for a year-round source of garlic in the garden.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) – a fragrant addition to many dishes and teas!
Turmeric (Curcuma longa) – both medicinal and culinary uses. Like ginger, turmeric can be grown in small gardens and containers. freeze or make a dried powder to use throughout the year.
Spring onion (Allium fistulosum) – easy to grow and just cut at the base, and they regrow! Such an easy swap to make! Sprinkle plants or seeds throughout your garden to fill the gaps.
Grow Medicinal Plants
Grow natural remedies for common ailments. Many medicinal plants have multiple functions in a garden, including medicinal, culinary, pollinator and wildlife habitat.
Skip the microplastic tea bags and grow your own herbal teas.
Lemongrass Cymbopogon citratus) – easy to use and full of flavour. Simply tie a bunch of leaves in a knot and add to hot water.
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) – I love lemon balm in teas and infused into a lemon and honey drink. Lemon balm has calming properties.
Mint(Mentha spp.) – strong flavour and an insane amount of types of mint, such as apple mint, orange, ginger, and chocolate – just remember this is one you really want to keep contained away from your garden.
Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa) – the calyces make a vibrant, tart and cranberry-like flavoured tea or drink. mix with honey for sweetness. packed full of vitamin C. They can also be used to make jams, syrups and chutney.
Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) or Cinnamon Myrtle (Backhousia myrtifolia) – Are Australian natives that are full of flavour.
Holy basil (tulsi) (Ocimum tenuiflorum)– a great natural sleepy tea or anti-anxiety tea for a relaxing evening brew.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)– full of flavour and immune qualities for a health-boosting tea
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) – sweet, fragrant tea herb with pineapple scent and flavour. The red flavours are popular with small birds or great for flavour and garnish.
Start Building Your Homegrown Supermarket
Growing your own food and boosting your homegrown food security does not have to happen all at once. Actually…The most sustainable gardens usually grow slowly over time. Start with a few staple plants that you already use in your kitchen, herbs for flavour, leafy greens for salads, or a fruit tree for snacks and expand from there.
One of the biggest benefits of growing your own groceries is freshness and no nasty chemicals! Fruit and vegetables picked straight from the garden are often sweeter, more nutritious, and far more flavourful than produce that has travelled long distances to reach the supermarket. You also gain the peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly how your food was grown.
For gardeners in warm climates like mine in Western Australia, many of these plants thrive with very little input once established. Hardy staples such as sweet potato, pigeon pea, mulberry, lemongrass, and arrowroot can produce food, mulch, and soil improvement all at the same time. Over time, these plants start to form the foundation of a productive backyard ecosystem. Food security does not mean growing absolutely everything yourself. It simply means bringing more of your food supply closer to home. Every herb you harvest, every fruit you pick, and every staple crop you grow reduces your reliance on supermarket supply chains.
Start with one plant, then another, and before long, you may find that your backyard begins to feel less like a garden and more like a small, living supermarket.
Edible canna or Queensland Arrowroot (Canna edulis) is a highly resilient, fast-growing plant that thrives in a variety of conditions, making it a valuable addition to any permaculture or sustainable garden. With its striking tropical foliage, edible rhizomes, tropical lush green leaves, and excellent mulching properties, edible canna is one of my favourite edible mulch plants to grow. Find out more about how to grow and use this incredible permaculture plant plus, where and how to find it!
Benefits of Growing Edible Canna in a Sustainable Garden
Edible and Nutritious Rhizomes
Edible canna produces large, round, red rhizomes that are highly versatile in the kitchen. These rhizomes:
Can be eaten raw or cooked like potatoes
Can be dried and ground into flour for baking and thickening sauces
The young shoots of edible canna are also edible, containing around 10% protein. They can be used as a nutritious green vegetable, adding diversity to your homegrown food supply during thin months.
Extremely Fast-Growing and Easy to Cultivate
Edible canna is incredibly easy to plant, grow, and harvest. It quickly repopulates, ensuring a continuous supply of rhizomes and biomass without much effort. The rhizomes send off side shoots that can be harvested to eat or to move and regrow in other areas of the garden.
Adaptable to Various Climates and Soils
Thrives in warm climates even the toasty hot Perth summers
Grows well in very poor soil, making it ideal for degraded or sandy areas
Highly drought-tolerant, but will produces better eating rhizomes in well-watered conditions
Grows well in wet conditions and even along pond edges, helping to stabilize soil and prevent erosion
Provides Biomass for Mulching & Soil Improvement
The large leaves and water-filled stems, similar to banana plants, make excellent chop-and-drop mulch. This is a game changer for establishing new gardens with poor soil. Regular pruning encourages new growth while giving you green material to add organic matter to the soil. Enriching your gardens fertility and helping protect the soil from the harsh sun to helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and build soil health.
The leaves can also be used like Banana leaves to decorate tables or even make DIY eco pots.
Windbreak & Habitat for Wildlife
Dense clumping growth makes edible canna an effective windbreak, protecting more delicate plants. I often plant these first next to new plants to help protect them while they get established and then later on cut them back to use as mulch. The vibrant red flowers attract pollinators and small birds, enhancing biodiversity. They also provides shelter for beneficial insects and small wildlife which are key to creating a thriving sustainable garden.
How to Grow Edible Canna / Queensland Arrowroot
Planting & Soil Requirements
Prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade
Grows well in poor, sandy, or wet soil conditions
Can be planted from rhizome divisions, making propagation easy
Maintenance & Care
Requires minimal maintenance once established
Regular pruning helps maintain vigorous growth and maximizes mulch production
Can be interplanted with fruit trees and vegetables to enhance soil health
Harvesting & Usage
Harvest rhizomes when they reach full size, usually after a year of growth
Young shoots can be harvested as needed for fresh greens
Leaves and stems can be pruned periodically for mulch
Where to Find Edible Canna or Queensland Arrowroot?
I get a lot of questions on where to find Canna Edulis so here are some place to check out if you are in Perth: Tass1 trees, Primal Fruits, Bloomings Nursery. Otherwise check out your local nurseries that are not “chain” stores. They can often be found in the pond sections alongside the edible plants. Be sure to check the variety for ‘Canna Edulis’ as there are many types of ornamental Canna.
Powerhouse plant for sustainable gardens
Edible canna is a powerhouse plant for sustainable gardens, offering food, mulch, and ecosystem benefits with minimal effort. Its ability to grow in tough conditions, provide edible rhizomes, and support soil health makes it a must-have for any permaculture system.
Incorporate edible canna into your garden today to enjoy its lush tropical look and numerous practical benefits!
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide, I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Turn Your Garden or Homestead into a Profitable Venture
Are you dreaming of turning your love for gardening or homesteading into a steady income? Whether you live on a suburban block or a sprawling rural property, there are countless ways to earn money directly from your land. From selling fresh produce and seeds to hosting workshops or creating digital content, your garden or homestead can become a powerful income stream with the right strategies.
Make Money from Your Garden – No Matter the Size
In this post, you’ll discover 100 creative and practical ways to make money from your garden or homestead. Whether you’re a beginner gardener or a seasoned grower, there’s something here for everyone—from hands-on ideas like growing microgreens and making preserves to online options like starting a garden blog or selling educational resources.
Don’t wait to start living your dream life, start it today!
🎥 Watch: 100 Ways to Make Money From Your Garden or Homestead – Creative Ideas!
Some of these income ideas I’m already doing or currently setting up on my own garden and homestead, while many are still on my “someday” list! But pulling together this list has been incredibly motivating for me, and I hope it gives you plenty of inspiration to get started today, too.
Just a quick note before we begin: Always do your own research and check the local laws, permits, or council requirements in your area before starting any of these ideas. These suggestions are in no particular order, and some links in the description may be affiliate links, which help support this channel at no extra cost to you.
100 ways to make money from your Garden or Homestead
1. Make cuttings to sell – often when pruning your plants, you can replant and make heaps more plants.
2. Sell seedlings – plant extra seeds each season to sell.
3. Sell extra produce at the local markets – a great place to connect with your community.
4. Craft DIY pots and plants – paint fun prints or slogans, upcycle tea cups or whatever it is.
5. Create an ebook – share your knowledge. Ebooks are great because you do the work once and sell it to anyone in the world forever. It can be set up for free so it costs you nothing to start! Try using Canva.
6. Create a garden club in person or online
7. Start an Instagram monetized account or to share links to your shop
8. Start a Facebook monetized page to share links to your shop
9. Start a Tiktok monetized or to share links to your shop
10. Write paid blog posts for companies – use your knowledge to write articles
11. Create a blog – Grow your audience and sell your own products, affiliate links or join ad networks
12. Start a YouTube channel – AdSense, affiliate, sponsored, your products, and grow an audience. This could be anything from sharing your journey, how to do things, or even just funny goat videos, or homestead vlogs
13. Make an online course (gardening, homesteading, growing flowers)
16. Design templates and labels (gardening layout plans, preserves, animal maintenance) Canva makes this so easy.
17. Sell stock images – Businesses need images all the time for their advertising or marketing campaigns. That can be anything from photos of snails, flowers, people picking vegetables, farm dogs, the possibilities are endless. And the great thing is you take the photo once you upload it, and you can be making money for years and years to come. Another great passive income stream that can make you money while you sleep.
18. Hold workshops – If you have a set of skills, then share them with others by holding workshops. This can be absolutely anything from how to grow flowers, how to prune fruit trees, how to build a chicken coop, canning, preserving, cheese making, or whatever it is that you have experience in.
19. Zoom and phone consultations – Whether you have skills and knowledge in Garden design, permaculture, animals, business or whatever it is you can charge an hourly rate to offer phone or video one-on-one consultation.
20. Sell seeds – Saving seeds is a vital part of growing and building a sustainable homestead. Saving seeds can also mean you have far more than you will need so you can sell your extra seeds. You may also be growing rare or unusual fruit and vegetables that you could save and sell seeds from
21. Host retreats – if you have built a beautiful oasis or peaceful garden, why not host retreats for others to feel the inspiration and beauty of your property too. You could include homegrown produce, nature walks, yoga, cooking classes, natural healing with herbs, art, crafts, whatever it is that you are passionate about or have some experience in you can package it up to a retreat. Collaborate and get other guest speakers or artists in to help you offer unique and inspiring experiences.
22. Air BnB – Create small accommodations or rent our part of your home to guests. Get creative, have fun, and offer unique accommodations and experiences. This can work well with many other offerings on your property.
23. Beekeeping – bees are great for aiding in pollination so keeping bees on your property may increase your harvests. You will also be able to harvest honey, beeswax, and honeycomb to eat or sell. If keeping bees is too much, then you can let other beekeepers rent space on your land in return for income or honey.
24. Bed and breakfast – if you have a spare room, cabins, or studios, you can offer bed and breakfast stay with your homegrown produce. This is a unique experience that many people would travel further to stay.
25. Grow specialty crops – such as vanilla bean, saffron, and other rare or special products. These may take time to grow, but time is going to pass anyway. If you have a unique growing environment or a hothouse, you may be able to grow things out of season or tropical fruit and vegetables that others can’t grow.
26. Dried flowers – these are really popular at the moment and last for a long time. You could provide local florists with dried foliage or flowers. You could also produce your own bunches or sell them individually for home decor.
27. Public tours – if your friends and family are wowed by your garden or property, then why not offer paid public tours. Even if you have a small garden, but you utilize it well you may be able to offer advice and show others how they can achieve this too.
28. Microgreens – microgreens are easy to grow and very popular. Restaurants use microgreens as garnishes. Contact your local restaurants and find out if they would be interested in purchasing. They may even be able to tell you which ones they like the most.
29. Trending houseplants – This new craze is unbelievable! If you haven’t heard about variegated monsters, then you may have been living under a rock! One even sold recently in NZ for like $25k! Wild. So take a look at what is trending and you may be able to purchase one plant and make a cutting to make your money back and start profiting. Obviously, there is a risk so be sensible as the plant may die before you make a profit or go out of trend.
30. Medicinal herbs – herbs have historically been used to aid and cure many ailments. With a return to natural living and health, many people are interested in medicinal herbs. Whether you sell wholesale or package your own products, there are many options for selling medicinal herbs.
31. Pressed flower art – press your seasonal flowers and turn them into art.
32. Firewood – extra trees or plant your own trees specifically to harvest for wood.
33. Timber – sell specialty timber for building or crafts
34. Lease or rent part of the property – for other hobby farmers or gardeners. Many people have ideas and dreams of buying land and starting a market garden, cut flowers, free-range eggs, or even just a vegetable patch but want to test the idea or start small with low upfront investments. Offer up spare paddocks or a small plot for a garden and I’m sure you will have many people jumping at the opportunity. Make sure if you do this you get contracts in place so both parties are on the same page.
35. Animal manure – if you have animals, you will have plenty of manure. This is highly sorted after for growing fruit and veggies so if you have extra or more than you need then offer it up for sale. Especially if your property is organic and spray-free, this will be highly valued.
36. Fresh Free-range eggs – nothing beats fresh free-range eggs, and you will have no trouble selling these. Make it fun and get a custom stamp for your farm or chickens. You may also be able to get your local community to drop off used egg cartons to use and recycle. Always make sure with produce you have enough for your family before selling.
37. Worm tea – worm wee and worm casting are gold for the garden! if you have extra then you will easily be able to sell this locally.
38. Mature Animals – this one is self-explanatory, but raising animals to sell.
39. Milk – doesn’t have to be cow milk, goat, sheep, and nut milk are also great niches
40. Cheese – I would love to make my own cheese super fun skill to have and add in other homegrown produce like chilies and herbs.
41. Stud animals – Not everyone wants to keep stud animals, and that is males for breeding. If you have a good quality breeding animal you can hire that out so people can make baby animals…
42. Timber art or signs – Use reclaimed timber of wood you find on your property to make signs. These could be decor, custom-made for events etc
43. Landscape designs – If you are skilled at landscape design, you could do consultation and design or even some basic premade food growing designs to sell.
44. Basket weaving from natural fibers – another one i can’t wait to try is weaving and making baskets. Very popular and useful for vegetable harvesting and farmers’ markets.
45. Create garden starter packs – help beginner gardeners get started with complete start packs. Could be seeds, pot, soil, tools etc
46. Fresh herb containers for kitchen gardens – plant up kitchen herb planters and sell as ready-to-go herbs.
47. Make insect hotels – insects are great for the garden and you can make insect hotels using forages, sticks, and materials you have found around your property.
48. Fresh bread – amazing! and you could add in other homegrown produce like olives, herbs, and sundried tomatoes!
49. Kombucha scoobys – such a weird thing to sell but also very popular! if you are brewing your own kombucha you will likely end up with too many scobbies so you can sell them and even offer tutorials or ebooks on how to make it.
50. Sourdough starters – same as the kombucha, don’t waste the extra sourdough starter, sell it, and offer tips and tricks to newbies. These products that need to be sold locally may help you connect and find like-minded people in your community.
51. Jerky or dried fruits – preserve you extra produce by dehydrating them and selling them as snacks or garnishes to restaurants and bars.
52. Plant labels – have you come up with an innovative plant label idea? It is something that is always a pain point for gardeners, so it would sell like hotcakes.
53. Hay or straw – If you have spare paddocks, why not make some hay or straw for animal feed. to feed your stock but also sell extras.
54. Grow Halloween pumpkins – A Seasonal thing to do is to grow jack-o-lantern pumpkins and sell them to those wanting to carve pumpkins. You can also let people come and pick their own and set up fun displays or photoshoots to market your homestead or brand.
55. Chilli and hot sauce – easy to make and a popular condiment to sell. Make fun labels to help promote your homestead.
56. Wooden spoons, platters, and bowls – you can make beautiful spoons using timber and sticks on your property. This is another one on the top of my to-try list.
57. Recycled or upcycled art – don’t waste leftover supplies. If you are creative, turn them into art or installations to sell.
58. Honesty box/roadside stall – if you want a more set-and-forget option, this is a good one. Make a creative little stall to attract passers-by and sell your extra produce, jams, flowers, and crafts. If you don’t live in a place with lots of through traffic, you could advertise it on your social media or local pages. Be sure to secure the honesty box well and empty it regularly…
59. Affiliate marketing – this is where you can sign up to promote brands and products you love. If people use your links to purchase any products, you will receive a small commission. This can be a really passive way to create income as you just leave links on your videos or website.
60. Paid newsletter – come up with an offer and send out regular paid newsletters. This could be recipes, tips, or guides. I use Convertkit.
61. Hiring out equipment – If you have purchased specialty equipment that you don’t use every day, why not hire it out to those who just want to use it once or twice. This can be things like horse floats, tractors, fencing equipment, woodworking, welders, whatever it is. It could help you pay for the product itself.
62. Strawberry runners – strawberries send off heaps of runners and small plants. You can sell extras for people to start growing their own strawberries quickly.
63. Garlic seed – Sell your leftover garlic as seed for others to grow their own.
64. Wreaths – season-themed wreaths or as decor using foraged foliage, sticks and other materials from your garden.
65. Bugs – for animal feed. Crickets, worms lots of bugs can be sold for animal feed for people with small pets such as lizards etc.
66. Meat – raising animals for meat.
67. Wool from sheep
68. Baby animals/ breeding
69. Christmas Trees – have extra space and not sure what to do. You could plant Christmas trees and people could come and pick out their own.
70. Hatching eggs – sell fertilized eggs for people wanting to raise their own chicken, ducks, or quails.
71. Flower crowns – special occasions, weddings, bridal showers or birthdays. Flower crowns are easy to make and can be kept as keepsakes. You can sell them or even set up workshops and help people make their own.
72. Grazing – allow people to keep their animals on your property if you have extra pasture.
73. Horse agistment – similar to grazing, but a little more infrastructure is involved. Shelter, food, and possibly feeding and putting rugs on and off. But if you have horses and extra space to house more then this can be a very lucrative extra income.
74. Photography shoot location – offer up parts of your property as photoshoot locations. Very easy and if you are creative you could really get into it. Plant a field of sunflowers or if you have a cute cabin, a pond, a themed garden or even just a beautiful veggie patch. Contact local photographers and let them know. Once photographers start using your locations and tagging you its free advertising and you may get more customers.
75. Wedding venue – Very lucrative if you have a beautiful property. you may need to invest in a few things to start with like power etc but for the most part weddings can be set up anywhere as toilets can be hired, food trucks, etc. As you grow you could add more things such as all-weather barns, kitchens, or catering. This would allow you to offer different pricing tiers. and many other things on this list can tie in with wedding venues. Such as Airbnb and cabins can be rented to wedding parties, flower crowns, etc.
76. Grapes for wine – wholesale grapes to vineyards or make your own small-batch wine.
77. Write a book – put your personal experience or skills in a book! Even a photo book for inspiration as a coffee table book.
78. Nature or animal Yoga classes – have fun with it offer locations to local instructors or become one yourself. If you have tranquil locations or I’ve even seen goat yoga! where baby goats hang out and jump on your back.
79. Cooking classes – offer up your skills and teach others to cook or bake using homegrown produce.
80. Seasonal dinner parties – I love this idea as each season should be celebrated. Host beautiful long table dinners using what you have grown or involve other local growers.
81. Create sustainable gift baskets using produce – businesses are often looking for new and exciting gift ideas. Put together some gift baskets and contact local companies. You may even be able to work with them to customize it to suit. Real estate and builders are often great places to start as they gift clients at the end of sale or the finished build of each property.
82. Regular in-season produce subscription box – if you grow plenty of food, offer seasonal produce boxes where people sign up to receive a box of fruit and veggies each week or fortnight with whatever you have from the garden.
83. Sponsored posts – if you have a following on any of your platforms, you may be asked or can reach out to companies for sponsored posts. The reason these work so well is that you have a very specific target audience that is interested in what you are doing. Which is gold for advertisers.
84. Herbal tea blends – Dry your extra organic herbs and make up some fun tea blends.
85. Innovative inventions – ( animal feeders, planting seeds), things that you have come up with to save you time, that could help others.
86. Naturally dyed clothing – use leaves, berries, avocado seed,s and other natural materials to make interesting clothing or fabric.
87. Mulch, sawdust, or woodchips – great for gardens or animal bedding.
88. Hire out specialty areas or infrastructure – stockyards, round pens, arenas, shearing sheds, commercial-grade kitchens, pottery kiln, and things like that.
89. Share knowledge and expertise with consultations – Beekeeping, hydroponics, milking goats, starting a vegetable patch, canning, and preserving. Whatever you have mastered, you can help others set up.
90. Sculptures using clay, timber, or other foraged materials
91. Timber rounds for signs, displays, and platters. This is so simple and very popular! Sliced rounds of wood go for $50 or $100, and people without access to timber will pay for them!
94. Home decor – painted timber, shelves, wall hangings, ladders,
95. Remedial ointments, salves, and lotions
96. Mature fruit trees – you could buy young trees for cheap, $20 – $30 fruit trees, and once they are mature and fruiting, they sell for over $200. Might take a few years, but time will pass anyway.
97. Merchandise. Established brands with the following sell garden-related clothing or home products.
98. Fresh cut flowers – whether you have a roadside stall, sell wholesale to florists, or offer a subscription service where people get a fresh bunch of seasonal flowers delivered on a regular basis. I would love that!
99. Subdivide and sell part of your property – this is not really a recurring income or you would have no land left but if you are looking for land to buy maybe if you buy more than you need you can subdivide off a section of it and it could help you go debt-free or pay for a new barn or business idea.
100. Sell baked goods. I’m talking apple crumble, strawberry tarts, rhubarb pies, lemon meringue pies, ok I love pies…
Keep it simple. Start small and build on it.
Don’t get overwhelmed by these ways to make money from your garden or homestead. Start with your strengths and what excites you the most. This will go a long way to ensuring you succeed. For me, photography, video, and visually creative platforms are my strength and my passion. So those are the areas I have focused on to start with. If you are more social and love interacting with people, maybe holding workshops and garden tours would be more your thing.
Don’t worry about what everyone else is doing. Focus on you. Focus on what feels exciting and sparks inspiration.
Let me know in the comments what you are starting with or hoping to start next. I would love to know!
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