From invasive root systems to aggressive self-seeding, I will share why urban gardeners should Avoid Planting these in the Ground. These 15 Fruit Trees & Edible Plants can take over your garden, damage nearby structures, or require constant maintenance. Planting fruit trees and edible plants in the ground might seem like the best way to grow them, but some plants can quickly become a headache in urban gardens!
If you have limited space or an urban garden, this will be important info to know BEFORE you plant these in the ground! In this post, I’ll explain why these plants are better suited for containers, raised beds, or controlled areas, helping you avoid common gardening mistakes.
Fig Trees
Figs are delicious and easy to grow, but their strong root systems can cause major problems. They have the potential to damage pavers, concrete, and even underground drains as they search for water. If planted in raised beds, they can take over the space, outcompeting other plants.
A better option? Grow figs in a pot. This allows them to focus on fruit production rather than excessive growth. You may find they fruit quicker and more prolifically in a pot when they focus more on fruit production than on establishing their size. If you have plenty of space, you can plant them in the ground—just keep them away from structures, driveways, and pipes.
Kumquat Trees
Kumquats are a fun citrus tree, but for many gardeners, they end up being more ornamental than practical. While they produce masses of fruit, the small, tart fruits are best suited for jams, chutneys, or cocktails—not for everyday snacking.
A small potted tree will be much easier to manage and will give you great harvests to experiment with. Rather than a full-sized tree overloaded with fruit that becomes a chore to harvest.
Blackberry
Blackberries are known for their invasive growth habits. They send suckers underground, making them hard to contain, and if their stems bend over and touch the ground, they root and spread even further.
To keep them under control, grow blackberries in containers or install a deep garden edge to prevent runners from escaping. Otherwise, they can quickly take over your garden or spread into neighboring gardens or properties.
Blueberry
Blueberries thrive in acidic soil, which can be challenging to maintain in the ground. Without consistent soil pH, they may struggle to produce fruit.
Growing blueberries in pots allows you to control soil acidity, ensuring healthier plants and bigger harvests. Plus, container-grown blueberries take up less space and can be moved easily.
Grafted Passionfruit
Grafted passionfruit vines are notorious for causing problems in the garden, especially for beginner gardeners. The rootstock can take over, killing off the main plant and leaving behind a non-fruiting, invasive vine. The suckers can spread over 50 meters, making them extremely difficult to remove once established.
For a hassle-free option, grow non-grafted passionfruit vines to avoid rootstock takeover.
Mint
Mint is one of the worst plants for spreading aggressively. It sends out underground runners that allow it to jump containment and take over nearby garden beds. Even in pots, it can escape through drainage holes and establish itself in the soil.
Since a single plant can produce more than enough for home use, keep mint contained in a pot or raised bed to prevent it from becoming invasive.
Elderberry
Elderberry bushes are great for their medicinal berries and flowers, but they send out suckers that make them difficult to control. Even if you try to remove them, they can keep coming back for years.
If you’re growing elderberries in a small space, consider pots or designated garden areas to manage their spread.
Goji Berry
Goji berries grow fast and aggressively, spreading through self-seeding and suckering. While they are packed with nutrients, they can quickly take over garden beds if not regularly pruned.
For better control, grow goji berries in a pot to keep them manageable.
Jerusalem Artichoke (Sunchoke)
Jerusalem artichokes send out underground tubers that spread rapidly and uncontrollably. Once established, they are nearly impossible to remove.
To prevent them from taking over, grow sunchokes in large containers or contained garden beds where they can be harvested easily.
Yarrow
Yarrow is a fantastic medicinal herb. It also attracts a lot of beneficial insects and pollinators to the garden. However, it has an aggressive spreading growth habit in the garden. It spreads throughrunners under theground that can invade neighboring properties and garden beds. Yarrow can be hard to get rid of once a patch is established.
If you want to grow Yarrow in an urban garden, try containers or root barriers to keep it in check.
Malabar Spinach
This fast-growing vine can take over trellises and nearby plants. It also self-seeds aggressively, meaning it will pop up all over your garden. It is also more ornamental than edible so you don’t need to have it regrowing everywhere.
For better management, grow it in containers or a dedicated trellis space.
Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is one of my FAVOURITE herbs. It is part of the mint family and spreads rapidly through self-seeding. Once established, it can take over veggie patches.
Keep it pruned to stop flowering and contained by growing it in pots rather than directly in the ground.
Choko (Chayote Vine)
Chayote vines are a great perennial vine but do grow extremely fast, climbing over fences, trees, and garden beds. They also regrow from tuberous roots, making them hard to remove once established.
To prevent it from taking over, grow choko in containers or on a dedicated trellis.
Loquat
Loquats are delicious, but birds spread their seeds, causing them to self-sow aggressively. These trees also grow large, shading out other plants and taking up valuable space.
If you plant a loquat tree, be prepared for regular pruning and fruit netting.
Nasturtium
While nasturtiums are great companion plants, they self-seed aggressively and can quickly take over garden beds. In warm climates, they may become invasive.
To keep them in check, grow nasturtiums in pots or confined spaces.
Where & How to Plant Instead:
1. Large Pots & Containers 🪴
Great for invasive trees like figs, bamboo, or mulberries.
Controls root spread and makes maintenance easier.
Use at least a 50L (13-gallon) pot with good drainage.
2. Raised Garden Beds 🌱
Ideal for shallow-rooted plants that need better soil structure.
Prevents aggressive roots from spreading into pathways or damaging pipes.
Use deep beds (40cm/16” or more) for trees like bananas or certain berry bushes.
3. Root Barrier Systems 🚧
Works well for trees with aggressive or spreading roots (e.g., willows, mulberries).
Install a thick plastic or metal barrier at least 60cm (24”) deep around the root zone.
4. Espalier Against a Fence or Trellis 🌿
Perfect for space-saving and controlling growth (e.g., citrus, apples, pears).
Improves air circulation and prevents disease.
Train branches horizontally along wires or a fence.
5. Food Forest or Dedicated Zone 🌳
Some trees, like guavas or loquats, spread but work well in food forests.
Plant in designated areas where spreading isn’t an issue.
Use companion planting to balance growth and improve soil health.
6. Grow Bags or Air-Pruning Pots 🛍️
Good for trees like figs or pomegranates that do well in restricted root spaces.
Promotes healthy root structure and prevents circling roots.
Use 40L+ fabric pots for long-term growth.
Planting in the ground
While these plants can all be great additions to your garden, planting them directly in the ground can lead to maintenance headaches and invasive growth. By growing them in containers or designated areas, you can still enjoy their benefits without the stress of keeping them under control.
Have you had trouble with any of these plants? Leave a comment below and share your experience! Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channelfor more gardening tips. 🌱
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Gardening in sandy soil can be a challenge, especially in hot, dry climates. Sandy soil drains quickly, lacks nutrients, and struggles to retain moisture. However, by choosing the right plants, you can naturally improve soil health while also growing food. In this post, I’ll share five of the best plants to grow for mulch and improve sandy soil, all of which are fast-growing, drought-tolerant, and multi-functional. These plants help build organic matter, retain moisture, and create a thriving ecosystem in your garden.
Pigeon pea is a nitrogen-fixing shrub that grows quickly and thrives in poor soil conditions. This makes it an excellent pioneer plant for mulching to improve sandy soil and support other plants in your garden.
Benefits of Pigeon Pea:
Fixes nitrogen, enriching the soil naturally
Produces edible, protein-rich peas
Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects
Provides dappled shade for smaller plants
Offers abundant biomass for mulch and soil improvement
Works as a windbreak and shelter for small birds and insects
Pigeon pea is a short-lived perennial (4-5 years) and can be used to establish a garden while building soil fertility.
Feijoa, also known as pineapple guava, is a hardy shrub that thrives in drought-prone and sandy soil conditions.
Benefits of Feijoa:
Tolerates drought and poor soil
Produces delicious, fragrant fruit
Provides dense foliage for wind protection
Low-maintenance and easy to grow
Can be used as a hedging plant to protect other crops
Feijoa is an excellent addition to sandy-soil gardens, offering both food and improved soil structure. They grow so much each year, which provides a consistent supply of green material to mulch. This is currently my top producer for mulch in the garden, and I use a mini mulcher with the Ecoflowbattery pack to give me cordless solar power anywhere in the garden.
Cassava (Manihot esculenta)
Cassava is a tough, resilient root crop that thrives in hot, dry climates and nutrient-poor soil.
Benefits of Cassava:
Grows well in sandy, well-draining soil
Produces large, starchy tubers that can be boiled, fried, or made into flour
Fast-growing, reaching 2-3m tall in one season
Drought-tolerant once established
Leaves are edible when cooked
Chop-and-drop plant for mulch and soil improvement
Helps prevent soil erosion with its strong root system
Cassava is an excellent survival crop that helps build soil health and provides a reliable food source.
Mulching for the win!
If you’re gardening in sandy soil, these five plants to grow for mulch will help improve organic matter, retain moisture, and build long-term soil fertility. By growing multi-functional, fast-growing plants, you can create a thriving, resilient garden—even in harsh conditions.
Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more gardening tips! 🌱
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Are you growing any of these plants? Let me know in the comments! And if you found this helpful, share it with fellow gardeners.
Wildlife and beneficial insects are key to creating a sustainable self-sufficient garden. They help form part of a balanced ecosystem and creating a small wildlife pond in the garden is an incredible way to attract them. Wildlife ponds can be a transformative addition to any garden or outdoor space, offering many amazing benefits including beauty, tranquility, and increased pollination. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a compact urban garden, a small DIY wildlife pond has the potential to create a thriving ecosystem, attract beneficial insects, and help your gardens grow an abundance of food.
Today I’m going to share the process of creating my own DIY wildlife pond including choosing a location, pond plants, and why I have chosen native Australian fish for the pond.
One of the key advantages of having a wildlife pond is the ability to attract beneficial insects. Many of these insects, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverflies, are natural predators of garden pests. By providing them with a water source and a suitable habitat, you can encourage their presence and create a natural pest control system within your garden. No need for harmful chemical pesticides making your garden healthy, thriving, and sustainable.
Click to WATCH the transformation or continue reading below
Planning Your Wildlife Pond
1. Choose a location for your wildlife pond
The first step in creating your small wildlife pond is to find suitable location options. Look for an area that is relatively level and away from large trees or shrubs whose roots may interfere with excavation or cause water quality issues. Consider the overall layout of your garden and how the pond will fit into the existing landscape. Keep in mind that a wildlife pond can range in size from a small, shallow pond to a larger, more expansive water feature, so choose a location that suits the space you have available.
Important things to consider when choosing the location for your wildlife pond:
Sunlight – most pond plants will need 6-7 hours of sunlight per day. This is more important in spring and summer than in winter as many pond plants will slow or die down over winter anyway.
Shade – Shade is also important, especially during the hottest part of the day. Shade will help keep the pond cool, especially in summer and reduce the algae. Adding plants will help shade out the pond.
Water source – Having a water source or hose available nearby is important especially in summer if the pond water gets low or too hot.
Safety and access – Pets or young children – depending on the size of your pond you will want to consider access if you have young children or pets (my water-loving dog would jump in immediately!). It would be worth checking out your local council’s requirements for ponds.
Close proximity to gardens – If you are wanting to attract wildlife to your gardens to help with pollination and pest management then it would be a good idea to have it close to your veggie patch or gardens. Existing gardens will also create wildlife corridors for safe access to and from the pond.
My pond location:
Front garden away from my water-loving dog
In an existing garden bed for a wildlife corridor
Outside my office window to enjoy the aesthetics and tranquility
The size and design of your wildlife pond could be determined by the space available or the structure you choose to use. Whether that is a prefabricated pond, pot or barrel pond, or full DIY pond with a pond liner.
I sourced a preformed poly pond that was roughly 1m x1m and 30cm deep. There is a huge range of preformed ponds available to fit a range of spaces. Baths, tubs, and tanks also make great DIY pond structures.
3. Filling and Balancing the Pond
Having a water source nearby is important to be able to top up or cool the pool down during the warmer months. Rainwater would be ideal to fill your pond but if like me, you only have access to mains or system water you will need to do a few extra steps to balance and remove the chlorine.
To condition the water you can either leave it to sit and gas off for 2-3 weeks or you can speed up the process by running an aeration pond pump in the water. The other way to condition the water is to purchase some water conditioning treatment. This is what I did and I also waited two weeks before adding in fish just to be sure and to allow natural bacteria to build up. I also added “splosht” which are small dissolving sachets of good bacteria to help keep the pond clean. The ones I used are made here in Western Australia so it is native bacteria. Speak to your local pond shop to see what will work best for your pond.
4. Introducing Plants to the Pond
Selecting plants for your pond is an exciting time! Firstly, it is important to determine what types of wildlife you would most like to attract to your pond. This will help you select plants to suit and reduce some of the overwhelm.
Frogs like lily pad like leaves and grasses or reeds to hide in.
Small birds like nectar-producing flowers and dense shrubs to hide in.
Ladybugs and beneficial insects like pollen-rich flowers such as herb flowers
Lizards like low-lying dense ground covers to easily hide in
Native wildlife often are attracted to native plants and flowers
Another thing to consider is whether you would like them to all be edible or a mix of both. I chose to plant edibles, natives, and herbs. A wide range of leaf types and plant heights/structures will help encourage a wider array of wildlife to your pond.
There are 4 main types of plants you may like to select for your pond:
Full Aquatic Plants: These grow completely submerged underwater such as Water lilies, and Vallis grass. They are great for deeper parts of the pond and can help oxygenate the water.
Filtration plants: These help keep the water clean and act as natural filtration. These are plants such as: Lebanese Cress, Water Mints, Gotu Kola, Pennywort, Watercress, Kang Kong. Most of these plants like to be partially submerged. I have mine propped up on bricks with 1 inch out of the water.
Marginal Plants: These are plants that can be planted around the edge of the pond or in shallow water. These are plants like: Fairy Lights, Blue Grass, Reeds, Bull Rush, Taro, Water Chestnuts, Mint, Queensland Arrowroot, Iris, Lebanese Cress, Watercress, Thalia, Papyrus, Society Garlic, Sweet Violet, and Moneywort.
Floating cover plants: These plants multiply quickly and cover the surface of the water. This can help regulate the pond temperature and shade out the pond. This can reduce algae and also offer food to many fish. Plants such as: Duckweed, Azolla, Frogbit and Hornwort.
Check out the video for a full tour of the plants I selected for this project.
5. Adding Natural Elements
Natural elements such as logs, rocks, and sticks offer surfaces for wildlife to rest on, cross over or hide under. It is important to make easy access in and out of the water. This will allow frogs, lizards, and bees the ability to get in and out. Shallow areas, ledges, ramps, and varying heights around the edge of the pond will help with this. It will also help your pond blend in and look more natural and integrated within the garden.
6. Adding Fish to the Pond
Adding fish to your pond can help with filtration and keep mosquito larvae in check. Understanding what type of wildlife you would ideally like to attract to your wildlife pond can help determine the type of fish for your pond. I am hoping to get frogs in my pond and many introduced fish such as goldfish or Koi may eat frogs’ eggs. This can be ok in a large pond with more space for frogs to hide and lay eggs. As I have a small pond and would like to encourage frogs, I have decided to go with West Australian Perch and White Cloud minnows that eat mosquito larvae but not the frogs eggs. They are also low maintenance and can handle ponds without pumps.
After purchasing the fish from the pond store, I let the bags sit in the pond water for 5 minutes to let the water in the bag adjust to the pond temperature. I then gently opened the bag and let the fish out. The Minnows dart about on the surface often but the Perch love to hide and I never see them! So that is something to consider.
7. Maintaining Your Wildlife Pond
It is important to regularly check on the pond, especially during the first year as things grow and temperatures change. Observing will allow you to see what types of wildlife are using the pond and what changes or additions you could make. Adding a small pump or water fountain will also help keep the pond cool and reduce algae. I do plan to add a solar pump and fountain eventually.
Scoop out dead leaves or excess algae
Top up water in summer if needed
Regular top-ups of “Splosht” good bacteria or similar
I decided to add solar lights to the pond as it is outside my office window and is nice to view during the evenings when I’m working late. I selected floating solar lights and also spotlights to point at feature plants. The fun thing about these lights is that I can change the colours and turn them on and off via a remote. The floating lights also offer more protection for the fish whilst the plants are established.
Just like the rest of your gardens your pond will change and develop over the seasons and the years. It will require some tweaking and editing as you go to find a good balance. There are so many amazing reasons to create a wildlife pond for your gardens.
By creating a wildlife pond, you are not only providing a habitat for a variety of natural life but also fostering diversity in your surroundings. These ponds act as sanctuaries for a wide array of wildlife, including frogs, lizards, birds, dragonflies, and beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies. These creatures play essential roles in pollination, pest control, and maintaining a balanced ecosystem.
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Beautiful and delicious floral shortbread with subtle flavours of orange and thyme. This basic shortbread recipe can easily be adjusted to add seasonal edible flowers and herbs from the garden. The perfect treat to impress your guests and enjoy with tea or coffee in the garden.
Botanical Shortbread
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Additional Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour40 minutes
Fresh, subtle flavours infused in soft melting biscuits. These botanical shortbread biscuits can be made using seasonal edible flowers and herbs.
Ingredients
250gram butter
1 cup icing sugar
3 cups flour
2 tbsp orange juice
2 tbsp ( 1 orange) zest
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 /2 cup edible flowers
Instructions
Beat sugar and butter until very pale yellow/white and creamy.
Grate the zest of one large orange and add to the mix along with 2 TBSP of juice.
Mix through the flour to make a soft dough.
Wrap or cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 140 degrees. Lightly dust a baking tray with flour.
Remove the dough and lightly knead to bring it together.
Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to approx 1 cm thick (easier to manage using 1/2 the dough at a time)
Sprinkle over edible flower petals and fresh thyme leaves (removed from the stalk).
Gentle roll over the flowers. Some may not stick so just lightly press into place. Cut out shapes using a cookie cutter and place on to the baking tray.
Merge the leftover edges and re-roll out and continue to cut shapes. The second roll will incorporate the flowers into the dough so you may want to add extras on top.
Bake for 15-20mins or until very slightly starting to go golden. You want to keep them pale so they don't become too dry and crumbly. Remove and allow to cool on a wire wrack.
Notes
Edible flowers I used: Pineapple Sage (red flowers), Calendula, Rose, Sweet Violet, and Nasturtium.
Use seasonal edible flowers and herbs: other options to try are Lemon and Lavender, Lemon and Rosemary, or Mint.
Saving seeds can go a long way towards creating a sustainable lifestyle. Seeds have the power to grow an endless supply of food if they are continuously saved. Saving your own seeds will not only provide you with a sustainable food source but will also save you money in replenishing your seeds each year.
Saving your seeds is a great step towards self-sufficiency and when a world crisis happens, (hello 2020) the seed shelves are empty. People become more aware that they are relying on others to provide for them. Having your own seeds will mean you will have more resilience and can be more self-reliant.
Saving seeds from your best vegetables will help you develop your own SUPER plants! Selecting for pest resilience, size, strength, taste or timing, means you can grow more plants with those desired traits.
You will also get seeds and vegetables that are acclimatised to your exact growing conditions. They have adapted to their surroundings and will thrive! If you are already growing these vegetables you may as well save the seeds!
Can you save any seeds?
Heirloom or open-pollinated seeds are the best to save. These are varieties have been passed down for generations and have been bred “true to type”. This means they haven’t been cross-pollinated so they will produce the same or very similar vegetables each time they are planted.
Hybrid seeds have been cross-pollinated with two different varieties to get the 3rd outcome. The seeds saved from these can have extremely varied results, that can often be less desirable.
Over the years many heirloom seed varieties have been lost forever as more and more hybrid seeds are produced by large corporations that control the market. Saving your own heirloom seeds can help keep those varieties alive for future generations.
Saving seeds from the best-performing vegetables in your garden is such a valuable skill to have. It means you will have direct access to high-performing vegetables that you know and love.
Our family have tomato seeds that have been passed down from our grandpa and they produce the most incredible tomatoes for making sauce! Each year we grow the tomatoes and come together to make a big batch of tomato sauce. It is a fun, family tradition.
Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials
Not all plants go to seed in the first season. Annuals are often most of your common seasonal vegetables such as lettuce, tomatoes, watermelon, pumpkin, beans, peas and cucumbers. These produce seeds at the end of each crop or are in the ripe fruit. This means you can save the seeds from these each year. By choosing the best fruit and vegetables to save seeds from, each year your plants will get better depending on the desired traits you have selected for eg: biggest fruit, best flavour, most pest resistant.
Biennials will only go to seed in their second season and you will need to keep them growing throughout winter. This can mean you need to transplant them to a greenhouse if your winters are too cold. Biennials can be a little trickier to save seeds from. They also take up a lot of space whilst not producing much food while you wait for the seeds. These are many of the root vegetables and vegetables such as beetroot, carrot, onions, cabbage, kale, rainbow chard, and cauliflower.
Perennials are even trickier again as they are plants that regrow by themselves every year such as asparagus. It is often easier to transplant perennials by splitting the plant and transplanting than saving seeds.
Cross-Pollinating Varieties
When deciding to save seeds from your heirloom vegetables make sure that they are not getting cross-pollinated. Pollination can happen from insects or even wind for some varieties. So it is best to keep varieties of the same vegetable separate and in different corners of the garden. Another great way to protect and avoid cross-pollination is to stagger your planting. So if you want to plant two different types of tomatoes then plant them so that the first variety has finished flowering before the second one starts. This will just help ensure you get true-to-type seeds and know exactly what tomatoes you will have to plant the next year.
If you are growing multiple varieties at the same time, they may cross-pollinated but you can still save the seeds as this process will be good practice. If you plant those seeds out it will be a bit of an experiment to see what will regrow.
That doesn’t mean you can’t have some fun and try to cross-pollinate each season and see what happens.
Wait Until They’re Mature
Many fruit and vegetable seeds are only viable once they become over-ripe. This means you may miss out on getting to eat them. To save the seeds from vegetables you want to leave them on the plant until they are either dry or with fruit such as tomato and cucumbers they should be so over-ripe that they are starting to rot or go way past eating quality. This is how they naturally produce seeds in the wild.
Plants such as lettuce, celery, chard and radish will send off flowers once they get ripe and then these flowers will turn to seed pods. You will want to wait until the seed pods start to go brown and dry before harvesting for seeds.
Selecting Plants to Save Seeds From
This is an important step to make sure you save the best seeds! It can also be one of the hardest steps to commit to, as you will often have to forfeit eating that top-performing vegetable. If you see the perfect cucumber or tomato growing during the season, you will have to let it go overripe and bad before saving the seeds. This can often be disheartening, but just remember you will have even better crops in the years to follow!
Selecting “the best” vegetables to save seeds from is completely up to you. You may select for the biggest fruit, best tasting, plants that produce a lot, early fruiting, cold-hardy, disease-resistant, colour, or pest resistant.
How to Save Seeds?
There are two main ways to save seeds depending on the plants.
1 . Wait for the flowers to turn to seed or the seed pods to dry on the plant (beans, peas, flowers, radish, parsley, fennel). Once dry, pick and allow them to dry even further. Seed heads such as flowers can be hung upside down with the seeds heads secured in a paper bag. Once they are completely dry, you can shake off the seeds into the bag.
For seed pods such as beans, peas, and radish, once they are completely dry, you can remove the seeds from the pods and place them in a jar or brown paper bag. This can be quite time-consuming, especially with smaller seed pods.
2. Let fruit or vegetables go overripe on the plant to mature the seeds. They may change colour or start to break down ( tomatoes, cucumber, eggplant, chilli, capsicum, squash).
Once they are overripe, pick them and cut them open to reveal the seeds. Clean off the flesh and dry.
FermentFleshy Fruit Seeds
When saving seeds from fleshy fruits such as cucumbers, melons, or tomatoes, it can be hard to separate out the slimy layer surrounding the seed. This layer is to protect the seed when it is ingested by animals, birds, or from soil bacteria, and allows the seed to make it safely to the next season.
In nature, the fruit will rot on the plant producing mature seeds, then fall to the ground and the slimy film will protect the seed while the soil bacteria and microbes start breaking it down. Then, by the time the soil has warmed up again the following season, the seed will be ready to burst into life! This is why your volunteer tomatoes that grow from the compost are so hardy and fast-growing! They have been processed correctly.
We can mimic nature by squeezing the fresh fleshy seeds into a jar of filtered water to ferment (will be stinky) for a few days. Leave a lid loosely on the top of the jar and you will notice a white film starting to cover the surface. This is the lacto-fermenting process.
The viable seeds will be at the bottom of the jar and the bad seeds will float. Once the film covers the top of the surface you can separate off the bad seeds, rinse your seeds, dry them, and store them.
The easiest way to do this, is to dry them on a paper towel and when they are completely dry fold it up and place them in a brown paper bag or jar to store.
Is Fermenting Necessary?
No, you can simply rinse your seeds and dry them out. The fermenting phase helps eliminate the bad seeds, remove the protective layer and kill off some of the seed-borne diseases.
Dry the Seeds Completely
You want to make sure your seeds are completely dry before storing them. Lay them flat on a tray, moving them around every day or so until they are dry. Thicker seeds such as pumpkin may take a week or so to fully dry. Remove as much of the extra plant matter as possible (seed pods, petals, protective layers).
Storing the Seeds
Store your seeds somewhere cool, dark, and dry. I like to keep my seeds in brown paper bags, envelopes or recycled vitamin/pill canisters. Make sure you label them well with the name and/or desired trait (early tomatoes, best-tasting pumpkins, etc) and put the date.
Store your seeds in the coolest room or area of your house. Seeds can also be kept in the fridge in airtight containers.
How Long will Saved Seeds Last?
It is best to plant your seeds and resave each year or two, but if they have been stored correctly, some seeds may last over 10 years. Saving seeds and gifting them to friends and family, will mean you will be able to keep heirloom varieties available for generations to come.
If in doubt don’t throw them out! Old seeds can still be sown, you may just get less successful germination.
Saving seeds and figuring out how to save seeds from each plant can be tricky. Let me know if you have any questions about saving your seeds. This guide may also come in handy to determine whether plants are annual or biennial and how they are pollinated.
