In hot climates, heat isn’t the only thing stressing your garden – create windbreaks to reduce heat stress and protect your garden this summer. Here in my Perth garden, summer not only brings disgustingly hot temperatures (40+ degree club) but it also brings HOT WINDS to double the heat stress. Wind pulls more moisture from leaves, dries soil faster than the sun ever could, and turns hot days into survival mode for plants. Even a “mild” breeze can double water loss in summer, which means wilting, leaf scorch, poor fruiting, and stressed soil life! Most summer gardening advice focuses on sun and water…But in hot climates, windbreaks and shade are key! If you’re gardening in heat, windbreaks are one of the most underrated tools for building a resilient, productive summer garden.
Why Wind Is So Damaging in Hot Climates
In summer, plants are already working hard to stay cool. They regulate temperature by releasing water through their leaves (transpiration). Wind forces this process to speed up. Creating windbreaks for heat stress will help your gardens survive a hot summer!
The result: Faster moisture loss from leaves, increased evaporation from soil, reduced humidity around plants, and greater demand on root systems. This creates compound stress: Heat stress + wind stress means plants end up burnt and crispy faster! That’s why a garden can fail in summer even when you’re watering well.
What a Windbreak Actually Does for Heat Stress
A windbreak doesn’t stop wind completely…instead, it slows and filters airflow, creating a calmer environment for plants to thrive. By reducing the speed of the wind, it lowers evaporation from both soil and leaves, helping your garden retain moisture more effectively. Young plants and fruit trees benefit particularly, as they are less stressed and more likely to grow strong. Even partial wind protection can reduce wind speed by 30–50%, producing a noticeable improvement in plant health and water retention throughout the garden.
Where Windbreaks Matter Most in Hot Summer Gardens
Front yards and newly established gardens tend to be hit hardest because they’re often open on multiple sides, with little existing shelter. This creates a funnel effect and increases the speed of the winds. Exposed sites and sandy soils make the problem worse, as moisture is already quick to drain, and wind accelerates drying even further.
Here in my garden the the western and south-western sides of the garden are usually the most vulnerable. This is where hot afternoon winds arrive, compounding heat stress at the exact moment plants are already struggling to cope. Summer winds tend to be predictable, so it is important to work out which direction your garden is getting hit with. You may live near the coast and have a strong afternoon sea breeze or swirling winds from nearby buildings.
Also, some plants just really hate wind more than others! Trees like avocado, banana, tamarillo, papaya, and even young citrus really do not like wind. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, stems snap or bend under pressure, and growth often stalls despite good soil and regular watering. In windy conditions, these trees may survive, but they rarely thrive or are productive. Tall Banana leaves can get shredded, and that causes a huge reduction in photosynthesis – resulting in smaller banana racks or none at all….
How to Create Effective Windbreaks to Reduce Heat Stress in the Garden
The most successful windbreaks don’t try to block wind completely. Instead, they slow it down, filter it, and soften its impact. Solid walls or fences often create swirling winds, sending fast-moving air over the top and around the edges. A good windbreak works with airflow, not against it.
In summer gardens, wind protection usually falls into three categories: living windbreaks, temporary windbreaks, and permanent structures. Many gardens use a combination of all three, especially while new plantings are establishing.
I prefer to use living windbreaks in the garden, but while I’m waiting for these to establish, I set up temporary relief around more vulnerable plants such as Avocados.
Living Windbreaks: The Most Effective Long-Term Solution
Living windbreaks are the ultimate goal for long-term sustainable gardens inhot climates.Because they’re permeable, they reduce wind speed gradually rather than deflecting it harshly, creating calmer, more stable growing conditions – which we like! And so will your plants.
Well-chosen and placed plants also provide multiple benefits beyond wind protection — shade, organic matter for chop & drop, habitat for beneficial insects, and often food. Having plants that have multiple uses and benefits will skyrocket your garden’s success!
Good options for hot climates include pigeon pea, moringa, pomegranate, mulberry, feijoa, katuk, queensland arrowroot, natives, and clumping bamboo (always clumping, never running). These plants handle heat well and respond positively to pruning, making them easy to shape over time. Some, like the Mulberry and Pomegranate, are deciduous, so they will let light in during winter. If you want wind protection or privacy screening all year round, go for an evergreen tree such as Feijoa or Pigeon pea.
I have recently planted a bunch or queensland arrowroot and pigeon pea around the western sides of my raised garden beds. These will grow fast to offer protection from the hot afternoon sun. Helping not only shade the annula veggie patch but also reduce the sides of the garden beds from heating up.
The key to success is layering. A mix of heights and leaf textures filters wind far more gently than a single solid hedge. Taller trees slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and ground-level plants protect soil from drying out. As a bonus, living windbreaks improve the overall resilience and productivity of the garden as they mature. If you don’t need them during a season, then you can cut them back to let light in or increase airflow during the wet season. Essentially, growing a windbreak and your own mulch or fertiliser.
Plants That Make the Best Living Windbreaks and more!
A living windbreak doesn’t just slow wind, it can also feed your garden, protect your soil, and improve the microclimate. Choosing plants with multiple benefits ensures your windbreak contributes to long-term garden productivity.
Perennial Options
Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for chop-and-drop mulch, summer shade.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera) – Edible leaves, mulch, deep roots for soil stabilisation, drought-tolerant.
Mulberry (Morus spp.) – Fruit for humans and wildlife, deciduous (lets light in winter), dense foliage for wind filtering.
Corn (Zea mays) – Tall seasonal buffer, biomass for mulch, edible stalks and cobs.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) – Tall leafy annual, edible leaves and seeds, provides shelter for smaller plants.
Using Native Plants for Hardier Windbreaks
Native plants are often underappreciatedin hot, windy gardens. Because they’ve evolved in local climates, many are naturally hardy, drought-tolerant, and well-adapted to cope with constant airflow. Their sturdy, scrubbing growth habit makes them particularly effective as living windbreaks, creating dense layers of protection without requiring excessive maintenance.
Using native trees and shrubs can also boost biodiversity, providing habitat and food for local birds, insects, and beneficial wildlife. Many species are evergreen, giving year-round wind protection. By selecting a mix of heights, textures, and flowering times, you can build a multi-functional windbreak that slows wind, stabilizes soil, and adds so much value to the garden, as well as creating windbreaks for heat stress! I plan to have a row growing along my verge to act as a buffer from the road, not only providing wind breaks but also plenty of food for the pollinators.
Some examples of hardy native windbreak plants for hot climates include:
Acacia spp. – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for screening.
Callistemon / Bottlebrush – Dense, flowering shrubs that tolerate heat and wind.
Leptospermum spp. (Tea tree) – Tough shrubs or small trees, wind- and drought-hardy.
Eucalyptus spp. (small varieties) – Provide taller screening with minimal water once established.
By integrating natives into your windbreak design, you not only protect your more delicate plants but also create a resilient, self-sustaining garden ecosystem. In combination with perennials, annuals, and temporary barriers, natives make wind protection both effective and beautiful.
Temporary Windbreaks: When You Need Protection Fast
Not every garden has the luxury of time. New plantings, heatwaves, or exposed sites often need immediate protection while permanent solutions are slowly establishing. Temporary windbreaks are not always the most aesthetic…. but they can dramatically reduce stress in a very short time.
Shade cloth at 30–50% allows airflow while slowing wind speed.
Mesh fencing and trellises act as effective filters, especially when combined with climbing plants.
Tall, fast-growing seasonal crops like corn, sunflowers, or sorghum can also act as living wind buffers during the hottest months.
These short-term solutions are flexible and forgiving. They can be adjusted, moved, or removed as conditions change, and often become part of a longer-term windbreak strategy rather than a wasted effort.
Permanent Structures: Supporting the System
Fences, walls, sheds, and pergolas can all form part of a broader windbreak system to reduce heat stress when combined with planting. On their own, solid structures tend to create wind tunnels and pressure points, but softened with plants or placed strategically, they help redirect and slow airflow across the garden. Planting vertical climbers can not only reduce the speed of the wind but also help cool it down. Passionfruit is a great heat-tolerant climber that can help soften permanent structures, or try grapes for a deciduous option.
The most resilient summer gardens rarely rely on a single solution. Instead, they build layers of protection over time, starting with temporary measures and evolving toward living windbreaks that grow more effective with each season.
Plants That Struggle in Hot Windy Gardens
Some plants simply don’t cope well with high winds. Wind can tear leaves, stress stems, accelerate water loss, and stunt growth in these species. Knowing which plants are vulnerable helps you place them wisely and protect them with windbreaks.
Avocado (Persea americana) – Large, soft leaves and shallow roots make it prone to leaf damage and windburn.
Banana (Musa spp.) – Tall, flexible stems and wide leaves shred easily, resulting in poor growth and production. They also topple over easily.
Tamarillo / Tree Tomato (Solanum betaceum) – Fragile stems and leaves are easily damaged, affecting fruit production.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – Tall, thin stems with large leaves are highly susceptible to wind stress.
Young citrus (especially lemon, lime, and mandarin) – Small branches can snap, flowers drop, and young trees struggle in constant wind.
Soft-leafed subtropicals – Any tender, large-leafed plant benefits from partial wind protection until established.
Maximising Your Windbreak to Reduce Heat Stress
The key to a resilient windbreak for heat stress is layering plants of different heights and growth habits. Tall trees or fast-growing perennials slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and annuals or low-growing perennials fill in gaps and protect soil. Combining food, mulch, and nitrogen-fixing plants ensures your windbreak contributes to soil fertility, provides food, and stabilises the microclimate for your main crops. Even a small suburban garden can benefit from a multi-layered, multifunctional windbreak, giving you calm, protected spaces, improved yields, and less stress in a hot climate!
If you want to fill your garden with fresh food this spring/summer season but don’t have much room…these annual edible climbers are the best for vertical gardening in spring! I don’t know about you, but I always feel like I need more gardening space… BUT incorporating vertical plants into your veggie patch or garden can not only maximise the amount of food you can grow but also help shade and protect your garden. I love growing perennial or long-term climbers as they grow to produce more and more fruit each year without having to replant them but…. It’s also fun to have room to mix it up and try different annual climbers each year.
These fast-growing, productive climbing plants make the most of vertical garden space and can transform fences, trellises, and arches into lush, edible walls. Ideal for spring and summer planting, annual climbers are perfect for renters, small gardens, and food forests needing seasonal coverage and abundant harvest. Check out my top tips and plant list below and start growing more food in the same amount of space!
Annual vs Perennial Climbers? Which are better for Vertical Gardens?
I love growing a mix of both! I will share more about perennial climbers at the end of this post. Annual climbers grow for a season, produce food, and then die off. This means you can use the space to grow different things each season, or usually over two growing periods: summer crops and winter crops. Annual vertical climbers are great for….
Fast Results: Most are quick to establish and produce within one season.
Perfect for Temporary Gardens: Great for renters or testing garden layouts.
Seasonal Versatility: Easily rotated out each year to suit changing garden needs.
Creates Shade: Can provide temporary dappled shade for young fruit trees or veggie beds.
Increasing Pollinators & Biodiversity: Lush greenery, flowers, and harvests attract pollinators during the busy Spring & Summer season.
Ways to Support Your Vertical Climbers
Climbers need something to climb, and it’s best to have this installed before you get busy planting your seeds and seedlings. That way, you don’t risk stepping on them or snapping off stems. Below are some of my favourite ways to create trellis and support for my vertical gardens.
Vertical Pre-made Trellises: You can buy panels of pre-made wood or metal lattice or mesh frames. These can either be scrwed to existing fences or supports or add in your own. Star pickets or bamboo poles are often an easy and cost-effective way to go.
A-Frame or Teepee Supports: These are great for a quick and easy vertical garden. They also add interest to a flat space. Bamboo, stakes, branches, or recycled materials can be tied together to create a strong Aframe support. My mum adds an old bicycle tyre to a support post and ties string lines from the tyre to pegs in the ground . It doesn’t need to be fancy as long as it is strong and secure, the plants will cover the structure and look lush in no time!
Fences & Arches: I love archways in the garden as they give space to grow vertically, plus the added experience of walking under them is a little magical. Premade archways are a quick solution, but are often expensive. DIY arch ways can be made from metal cattle panels, timber trelis, branches, or recycled wood, even PVC piping over metal stakes. Chicken mesh, Rio mesh, or fencing mesh can be used to create small vertical supports for one side of your raised bed. This way, you can grow lower plants in the front of the bed and climbers up the back to maximise growing space.
Nets or Strings: Soccer nets or other string-construction nets can be a great DIY idea. Cheap and flexible, great for beans or light vines.
Ensure your structure is strong enough to support mature vines and fruit weight. The great thing about lightweight DIY structures is that they can be used for a season and packed away. This gives you flexibility each season to design your garden. As opposed to perennial climbers, they do better on more permanent structures.
Top 15 Annual Edible Climbers to Grow in Spring/Summer
These plants are either true annuals or fast-growing tropicals, often grown as annuals in warm climates. Check out the links to find more info on how to grow, harvest, and preserve.
Luffa (Loofah Gourd) (Luffa aegyptiaca / L. acutangula) – edible when young and makes natural sponges.
Bottle Gourd (Lagenaria siceraria) – versatile vegetable, produces a lot of food! A vigorous growing vine that is perfect for creating summer shade
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) – classic favourite with refreshing fruit for summer salads or pickling.
Tromboncino (Climbing Zucchini) – long fruits, mildew-resistant, great summer for creating shade.
Winged Bean (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus) – edible pods and leaves, great shade plant. Thrives in hot, humid conditions.
Malabar Spinach (Basella alba / rubra) – succulent-like leafy green for warm climates.
Climbing Beans (Purple, Green, Borlotti, etc.) – great for A-frames and Teepee structures.
Chayote/Choko (Sechium edule) – vigorous, edible fruit and shoots. Hardy summer shade plant. It can be perennial in warmer climates.
Cucamelon / Mouse Melon (Melothria scabra) Tiny, cucumber-like fruits with a tangy, citrusy flavor. Fun snacking plant for kids and great in salads or pickled.
Pumpkin / Squash (Cucurbita spp.) Fruits for roasting and soups. Young shoots, flowers, and even leaves are edible.
Climbing Tomatoes (Indeterminate Varieties) – support needed, but highly productive.
Melons (Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Watermelon) – may need individual support slings for the fruit to stop them from dropping when ripe and smashing.
Mini Pumpkins or Gourds – great for a smaller trellis and very ornamental.
Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) – Fast-growing vine with edible roots (tubers), tender young leaves, and shoots. A dual-purpose plant that provides staple carbohydrates and leafy greens through summer.
When to Sow and Planting Tips
Start Seeds Early: Direct sow after frost, or start indoors if needed. Plants that flower and then produce fruit such as melons, pumpkins, and gourds, need the full spring and summer season to grow, flower, and mature their fruit. Plant these in late winter or early spring. If you are likely to get cold snaps or frosts, start them indoors or in a greenhouse until the last frost has cleared.
Get structures installed: Make sure your structures are in place and sturdy before planting out your seeds and seedlings.
Feed the Soil: Mix compost and organic fertiliser into the soil before planting. Quick-growing annual plants require plenty of food and energy to grow.
Mulch: Retains moisture and keeps roots cool during the warmer months.
Train Early: Gently guide vines to supports while young.
Prune Lightly: Remove tangled or unhealthy vines to maintain airflow and access. As they grow, prune off leaves that are in the first 30cm of the soil. This helps reduce bacteria from splashing up onto the plant. Prune old or dead leaves throughout the growing period to increase airflow and reduce wasted energy.
Support fruit: Some large fruits, like pumpkins and melons, may need extra support. Hammock-style nets or string can help take some of the weight off and reduce the chance of the fruit dropping to the ground.
Want More Long-term Vertical Gardening Ideas?
Annual climbing vines are an incredible way to grow more food in less space, add beauty to your garden, and have fun experimenting with new crops each year! I always make room for annual climbers in my raised beds and kitchen garden. I also love perennial climbers for more long-term vertical food and summer shade. Although more permanent, these grow back each year to provide more and more food. Incorporating a mix of both annual and perennial climbers into your garden will help you grow massive amounts of food whilst still having the flexibility and space to try new varieties and plants each year.
Do you have areas that get very hot, full sun, and nothing seems to survive? These 22 heat-tolerant edible plants to grow in HOT full-sun locations will help you grow productive edible gardens. I’ve been growing food here in Perth, Australia, for the last 10 years, and let me tell you, it was a big change and learning curve coming from the lush green of New Zealand.
Today, I’m sharing some plant ideas to plant in those super hot locations, but keep reading to the end because it’s not just about what you plant, but also when and how! Bonus tips on that, so you can turn your hot barren wasteland into productive edible gardens.
Click to WATCH 22 heat-tolerant edible plants
22 Heat-tolerant Edible Plants for Full Sun
1. Rosemary
Attracts bees 🐝 and has healing properties, and is great for skin and hair care. Flavour-enhancing culinary herb🌿 When I first moved here, I wondered why so many houses had Rosemary hedges out the front – and it’s because it thrives on neglect and our poor sandy soils. Rosemary is a great heat-tolerant addition to your edible garden. Try making your own Rosemary Salt.
2. Guava – Strawberry & Tropical
Strawberry/cherry, lemon cherry, and tropical Hawaiian/Thai guavas are really hardy, low-maintenance fruit trees that produce bucketloads of fruit!
3. Mulberry
Another powerhouse perennial that survives on neglect – they grow super fast so you can use these as a nanny plant or a pioneer plant. If you have a barren hot area you could plant a Mulberry to get quick shade established and later on remove it or heavily prune if it gets too big. Mulberry also loses leaves in winter to let light in.
4. Lavender
Lavender is drought-tolerant – a great pollinator plant with many medicinal (calming and sleep) and culinary uses. In my garden (which will be different with climates and varieties) Lavender flowers at the same time as my Feijoas so I have it planted in between them to attract pollinators and increase my Feijoa harvests.
5. Feijoa / Pineapple Guava
If you have been following me on Instagram or subscribed to my YouTube, you will have guessed this plant would make the list 😂 Low maintenance, super hardy, and produces plenty of food! Feijoas do taste better when they get 50 chill hours a year so they aren’t optimally grown here in Perth, but they do grow well and are drought-tolerant. They are evergreen and super bushy, so they can be grown as an edible hedge. They are known to have fire-retardant qualities, which is very handy for hot, dry climates. If you are looking to purchase a Feijoa, choose a named variety (such as Duffy, White Goose, Mammoth, plus more) as these will perform better and produce fruit faster than generic seedling plants.
6. Passionfruit
Passionfruit is an edible vine that can be used to cover a fence, structure, or grown over an arbor to create shade. This can help cool your garden down and provide delicious fruit. Passionfruit flowers can also be used to make calming teas to aid in sleep and anxiety. NOTE: Avoid planting a grafted variety the grafts take over and become invasive, hard to get rid of, and don’t produce good fruit.
7. Citrus
Citrus like full sun and, once established, can thrive in hot environments. Avoid planting new trees before or during the hot summer so that they have time to get their roots established before the added stress of summer.
8. Lemon Verbena
A fragrant lemony scent that is similar to lemongrass. Lemon Verbena is great in teas, baking, and all the things! Lemon verbena is one of those plants that quietly becomes a favourite. Its leaves have a sweet, lemony fragrance—similar to lemongrass but softer—and the whole plant smells incredible when you brush past it. It’s perfect for teas, baking, syrups, and infused water,and it keeps its flavour really well when dried. I always keep a jar in the pantry for quick herbal tea blends. In the garden, lemon verbena is easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. It drops its leaves in winter (don’t worry, it’s normal!) and comes back quickly once the weather warms.
9. Pomegranate
Pomegranates are one of the best heat-tolerant fruit trees you can grow in a hot climate. They thrive in full sun, handle dry conditions like champions, and still reward you with glossy red fruit and bright, beautiful flowers. They’re incredibly low-maintenance, needing far less water than most fruit trees once established. Their deep roots make them drought-resilient, and they’re also naturally pest-resistant — perfect for gardens with harsh summers. If you’re building a resilient, water-wise garden, pomegranates are a must-have: tough, productive, and beautiful all year round.
10. Loquat
Loquats are incredibly hardy, fast-growing fruit trees that thrive in hot, dry climates. They handle poor soils, need very little care once established, and fruit heavily in late winter–spring when not much else is producing. Their sweet, tangy fruit is amazing fresh or made into sauces, and the large, glossy leaves give your garden a lush, tropical look with almost no effort. Loquats can be a pest plant because they grow so easily, and birds spread the seeds, so check with your local area.
11. Lilly Pilly
Lilly pillies are tough, water-wise Australian natives perfect for hedges, screens, or structure in hot climates. They handle heat, humidity, pests, and pruning exceptionally well. Many varieties produce edible pink or purple berries that can be made into jams or syrups. They’re also fantastic habitat plants for beneficial insects and birds. Part of the Syzygium genus is a great dense evergreen hedging plant with bright pink fruits. The fruits are edible and can be made into jams, sauces, and even sparking wine!
12. NZ Spinach / Warrigal Greens
NZ Spinach is one of the best heat-tolerant leafy greens for summer. It thrives when regular spinach collapses, spreading as a groundcover that shades and protects the soil. Harvest the tender tips regularly for stir-fries, and sautés. It’s low-maintenance, productive, and perfect for filling gaps in hot, sunny beds. Due to oxalates it does need to be cooked first.
13. Malabar Spinach
Malabar spinach is a vigorous climbing vine that absolutely loves the heat. Its fleshy, succulent leaves stay tender and productive even in scorching weather, and it grows beautifully over trellises to create summer shade. It’s ideal for warm climates but doesn’t tolerate frost, so give it a protected spot if your winters are cold.
14. Quince
Quince is a hardy, drought-tolerant fruit tree that thrives in hot conditions and poor soils. It produces large, fragrant yellow fruit perfect for making jams, jellies, pastes, and preserves. The tree itself is stunning with pretty spring flowers.
15. Zinnia
Zinnia is an edible flower that thrives in hot dry conditions. Zinnia has vibrant flowers in a huge range of colours. The great thing about Zinnia is that it produces nectar so it attracts a diverse range of pollinators to the garden such as bees, hoverflies, butterflies, and small birds. Zinnia is susceptible to powdery mildew so great for dry summers.
16. Sunflower
I love growing Sunflowers because they attract a huge amount of pollinators to the garden, and you can pretty much eat the whole plant! I use the petals fresh in a salad or press them to use on baking as garnishes. The seeds can be used on top of salads, to make oil, or to make spreads, and the leaves are also edible. Sunflower stems can even be made into flour! Sunflowers also help remove toxins from the soil, so they are a fantastic addition to a hot, full-sun garden.
17. Figs
Figs are one of the most reliable hot-climate fruit trees. They adore full sun, tolerate drought once established, and produce incredibly sweet fruit with almost no fuss. They grow well even in poor or sandy soil, making them ideal for Perth-style gardens. Prune them in winter to keep them compact and productive.
18. Olive
Olives are true Mediterranean survivors, heat-tolerant, drought-resilient, and long-lived. They thrive on tough love and poor soil, and they’re surprisingly productive even with minimal watering. Whether you grow them for fruit or as hardy ornamental structure, olives add beautiful silvery foliage and year-round resilience to hot-climate gardens.
19. Grapes
Grapes are great for growing over structures to provide shade to your garden and help other plants grow. Grapes are deciduous so they lose their leaves in winter to let light in and have full leaf coverage in summer to protect from the harsh midday sun. Grape plants have so many uses from fresh delicious table grapes to jams, preserves, and wine! grape leaves also have many uses in the kitchen.
20. Hollyhock
Hollyhocks are edible flowers that can grow up to 10 feet tall! They attract 100 of pollinators to the garden, and their height acts as a flag inviting them in. The leaves are also edible and can be cooked to make wraps. Hollyhocks are an annual so they will need to be planted again each year but they are so worth it! They can be susceptible to powdery mildew.
21. Thyme
Thyme is a hardy herb that thrives in hot conditions. Thyme is very versatile in the kitchen and pairs well with tomato dishes, on pizza, and roast veggies. Thyme also produces masses of tiny white flowers that attract an array of beneficial insects and pollinators. Thyme creeps over the ground so it makes a great edible ground cover plant.
22. Macadamia Nut
Macadamia nut trees can take a long time to start producing (5-7 years) but are really hardy and nuts are great additions to a homestead to make flour and milk from.
8 Tips for Successfully Growing Heat-Tolerant Edible Plants
Many of these heat-tolerant plants listed are perennials, and the reason perennials are so good for hot environments is that they have established roots and have time to get used to their environment. Annuals such as lettuce and tomatoes are planted new and have shallow roots so are more vulnerable to overheating.
Below are some tips to help you get your plants established and thriving through hot periods.
Avoid planting in hot weather (always check the forecast)
Provide temporary protection,such as shade cloth or umbrellas, during hot periods.
Grow nanny plants or pioneer plants (quick-growing trees that provide dappled shade in summer eg: grapes, mulberry, and deciduous fruit trees)
Plant new trees in pots until after the summer heat has passed
Plant densely – allow other plants to protect and shade each other and the soil.
Grow Endless Fertiliser
Growing food in a hot climate doesn’t have to be a struggle. By choosing tough, heat-tolerant plants, layering your garden with support species, and working with your climate instead of against it, you can build a garden that stays productive all summer long.
If you want to take it even further, my new ebook Grow Your Own Natural Fertiliser shows you how to build healthier soil, boost resilience, and keep your garden thriving — even in extreme heat. It’s the perfect next step for creating a truly self-sustaining garden.
Celebrate summer with these delicious watermelon choc-tops. Indulge in a sweet treat without all the added refined sugars. These watermelon choc-tops can be made frozen for an iceblock or chilled in the fridge for a refreshing summer treat. If you don’t like biting into a frozen iceblock, the refrigerated versions may be the best for you. These were such a hit and will now be a summer staple in our house!
With just two simple ingredients you can quickly and easily make these Watermelon Choc-tops that are sure to impress! Sprinkle with edible flowers before the chocolate sets to add a little extra magic.
Watermelon Choc-tops
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Additional Time: 2 hours
Total Time: 2 hours5 minutes
Watermelon Choc-tops are the ultimate summer treats! Quick and easy to make using simple ingredients.
Ingredients
Watermelon
Chocolate buttons (or whatever chocolate you prefer)
Edible Flowers
Iceblock sticks
Instructions
Slice your watermelon up into Iceblock sized pieces around 1cm thick and place in a container in the fridge to cool while you melt your chocolate.
To melt the chocolate I place my chocolate buttons in a small saucepan and set it over another saucepan with water and allow the steam to heat it.
Once your chocolate has melted remove it from the heat.
Create a rack to hold your watermelon iceblocks by placing two sticks (or chopsticks or knives) across the top of a cup.
Push the iceblock stick into the watermelon pieces so that they are secured.
Spoon over your melted chocolate and sprinkle on edible flowers. I used dried cornflower. Carefully place your chocolate-coated watermelon upright on your makeshift rack by holding the bottom edge of the watermelon.
Place in the freezer to set. The watermelon will be frozen and ready to eat within 2hours. Or place in the fridge until the chocolate has set for the fresh version.
Notes
Both fresh and frozen are good! However, I do prefer the frozen ones.
The difference between the fresh or frozen versions is :
Fresh - Sweeter, very juicy, a little hard to eat.
Frozen- Mild watermelon flavour, not too sweet, need to be good with biting into frozen food.
Water is a crucial part of any thriving garden and during summer many towns will experience water restrictions and droughts. This can add more stress to an already difficult growing period. Water restrictions can sometimes mean you cannot use hoses, irrigation or you may have limited days in which you can use them.
Do you rely solely on rainwater? Your tanks may be getting low or you are just conscious about preserving the water you have. Here are some tips and tricks to get the most out of the water you use and keep your gardens alive and producing food.
Water-Saving Tipsfor Water Restrictions
Make sure you check with your local council to see which restrictions are in place.
🌱 MAKE ECO SWAPS | Use eco, greywater friendly cleaning products so that you can start reusing the water you use in your home out into the garden. You can easily find many greywater friendly products these days or recipes to make simple cleaning products with no nasties. Not only is it better for your health to stop using nasty chemicals but it is also better for the environment – where the water will end up eventually. Products such as washing powder, dishwashing liquid, hand soap, shampoo, spray and wipe and anything you mix in with water.
🌱 GET PREPARED | Place a bucket or large watering can at your back door or somewhere that is both close to your house and in the direction of your gardens. This way you will have easy, convenient access to offload any water you have used and keep it to use on your gardens. Inform your family or housemates of where it is and what should be put in it (water with no nasty chemicals). Getting kids involved is a great way to teach them about the environment and how to be water-wise.
🌱 COOKING WATER | Pour any water used in cooking into your watering can. Water used to boil potatoes, rice, pasta, veggies etc can all go into your recycled water bucket.
🌱 OLD WATER BOTTLES | Pour any old water from water bottles that you don’t want to drink into your recycled water bucket.
🌱 DISH WATER | Depending on how involved you want to get, you could try washing your dishes in a bucket or tub in the sink to capture the water (making sure you’re using chemical-free, greywater friendly products). You could also use a bowl or pot to scoop out the majority of the water from the sink and place in your recycled water bucket. Or for a long term solution, you could direct your sink or dishwasher drain directly into the garden. IMPORTANT: Greywater can hold some pathogens so it is important to only use it on fruit trees and non-edibles and not straight onto your veggie patch. Check your local council restrictions.
🌱 WASHING MACHINE | The same as above you can either put the drainage hose in a container or bucket (ensure it’s large enough and only clean, eco-friendly products are used) or direct the pipes straight out into the garden for a long term solution. If your laundry is next to a window or door you could have a water container with a tap set up off the ground that you can place the hose into and then empty it into your watering can as needed. IMPORTANT: Greywater can hold some pathogens so it is important to only use it on fruit trees and non-edibles and not straight onto your veggie patch. Check your local council restrictions. Also, be aware that clothing will release microplastic if you have synthetic clothing.
🌱 SHOWER AND BATH | Showers can use a lot of water if you don’t restrict the flow and length of use. Place a bucket underneath to capture as much of the wastewater as possible or if you have a shower over bath set up, put the plug in and scoop the water out after. Make sure you have set up your shower with only eco, greywater friendly soaps, face washes and shampoo. IMPORTANT: Greywater can hold some pathogens so it is important to only use it on fruit trees and non-edibles and not straight onto your veggie patch. Check your local council restrictions.
🌱 RAINWATER CATCHMENT | Another great way to get more water is to set up catchments to harness the water that runs off your roof surface. Whether that is your house, garage or garden shed you can direct downpipes into water storage containers to use on your gardens. Rainwater is the absolute best kind of water for thriving gardens. Mains water that is provided by the City has chlorine and other additives in it that can slow or restrict growth.
MORE WATER-WISE GARDEN TIPS
Now that you have more water to use in your garden it is important to distribute that water in the most efficient and effective way. You don’t want to waste any of that precious water by evaporation or poor soil structure.
🌱 SLOW AND STEADY | The best way to get your plants to effectively absorb the water is to slowly distribute it and allow the plant time to absorb it. If you simply pour it on and walk away a lot of water will spread and run away across the surface and not be drawn down to the roots.
🌱 WATER UNDER MULCH | If you have a thick layer of mulch and only a limited amount of water, it is a good idea to pull back some of the mulch around the plant and pour the water directly onto the soil. Mulch can sometimes absorb ALL the water and not leave any for the plants. Mulch is great for protecting the soil and stopping evapouration so once the water is on the soil, push the mulch back around to keep the moisture locked in.
🌱 TIME IT RIGHT | Timing is everything. Choose cooler times to water your plants such as the early morning or late evening. This allows the plants to absorb as much of the water as possible before the sun and heat evapourate it. I tend to water any plants that are prone to mildew such as pumpkins, melons, cucumbers etc early in the morning rather than at night. That way they have time to absorb the moisture but they will also have all day to dry out if any moisture has reached their leaves. The rest of my gardens I tend to water in the evenings.
🌱 IMPROVE SOIL | Poor soil structure will be so hard to keep well watered as it will just let the water runoff or filter away. Sandy soils can become aquaphobic and be basically waterproof. Clay rich soils will become hard and compact restricting water flow to the roots. The best way to improve soil structure is to add fibre to your soils. Adding fibre means adding more plant matter by either compost of composted manure. Compost rich soil will retain more moisture and feed your plants. Healthy well-feed plants won’t require as much watering as their roots will be more developed and widespread to capture water more effectively.
🌱 SELECTIVE PLANTING | If you often have water restrictions or know there is likely to be a real water shortage in your area then make sure you are selective in what you choose to grow. Some plants will require more water than others so do your research and select plants that will work best for your conditions. Plants such as watermelons, tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce will require a lot more water than plants such as chilli, natives, citrus, corn, sweet potato or mini eggplant.
My favourite watering tools are:
Retractable Hose with 7 spray nozzle and water flow adjuster: Control exactly how much flow you want to each plant with this flow adjusting hose. CLICK HERE for more info.
Deep root waterer and soil breaker: Helps get water directly to the roots without any runoff or loss of water from evaporation. CLICK HERE for more info.
Weeper hose works great for drip-feeding water and allowing the plants to absorb more. CLICK HERE for more info.
MY GARDENING ESSENTIALS // Fertiliser spray gun: https://bit.ly/366nL1t Retractable Hose: https://bit.ly/2TSC0Bo More gardening tools: https://bit.ly/32IQmbD
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