NZ Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) also known in Australia as Warrigal greens is a perennial green with beautiful lush leaves. Although not part of the Spinach family, NZ Spinach is used as a spinach substitute. The great thing about this edible plant is that, unlike many spinach varieties, it thrives in warm weather! It has thicker more succulent style leaves perfect for warm climates or coastal sea spray.
NZ spinach grows as a thick edible ground cover and will cover and protect the soil in just a few short weeks. Thus, providing an abundance of leafy greens to eat!
Springafter the last frost.Can be grown all year round in many climates.
SOIL
Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plenty of compost.pH 6.8-7
LOCATION
Full sun – Dappled or shaded position.
CARE
Regular watering.
FERTILISE
Compost teas or liquid fertilisers.
PESTS
Slug and snail.
HARVEST
Harvest regularly to keep contained.
REPRODUCE
Grows easily from cuttings
Why Grow NZ Spinach?
There are many reasons to grow NZ spinach and it is so easy to grow!
Here are some of the many reasons to grow NZ Spinach
Easy to grow
Abundant producer!
Handles hot climates
Low maintenance
Edible ground cover
Antioxidants
High in vitamins A, C,B1,B2
Protects soil
Cut and come again harvest
Suppress weeds
Pest resistant
Handles coastal environments
When to Plant NZ Spinach
NZ Spinach is a hardy perennial but thrives in warm weather. It does not tolerate frosts so it may be grown as an annual in climates that receive cold frosty winters. Sow in Spring after your last frost. It is a vigorous grower so make sure you have space for it or it will overtake small plants. Great for a food forest-style garden or low-maintenance corners.
How to Grow NZ Spinach
Choose a sunny spot with dappled or part shade in the heat of summer.
Prepare the soil with rich compost
Direct sow seeds or plant in seed trays first. Can benefit from soaking the seeds in water overnight first.
1-2 plants per person is plenty!
Plant seedlings on small mounds to keep them well drained.
Care/ Maintenance
Protection from the harsh summer sun can help the flavour of NZ Spinach and reduce bitterness. Keep well watered in warm temperatures.
Once the plant is well established with approx 1m sprawl you can start harvesting stems at 3-4 inch pieces. This will help contain the plant and also promote new fresh growth which tastes the best!
Use clean, sharp kitchen scissors to cut your harvest.
At the end of summer, it can be a good idea to back old growth and use as mulch.
Cut and come again crop that will regrow quickly. I often harvest and use in meals every other day.
Reproducing
Take cuttings and allow to root in a jar of water. Refresh the water every few days. Seeds can also be saved and will flower with tiny yellow flowers on the stem. Once the seeds form and turn brown, collect them and dry them further. Keep in a dark, cool and dry environment.
Cooking and Using NZ Spinach
NZ Spinach like many leafy greens contains high oxalates so it is best to blanch greens first. Blanch greens in simmering hot water for 2mins and then plunge them into ice-cold water to keep them vibrant and fresh. Or simply cook or stir-fry. Young leaves can be eaten raw in small amounts. NZ Spinach is great to cook/blanch and freezes for future use. Or try fermented greens.
Kale (Brassica oleracea) is a member of the Cabbage family and produces an abundance of leafy greens. The great thing about Kale is that it grows vigorously and is much more pest-resistant than cabbages. Kale is packed with nutrients and antioxidants and can be used raw or cooked similar to lettuce or spinach.
Benefits from regular compost and natural fertilizers.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, and green caterpillars/ cabbage moth.
HARVEST
Harvest the outer leaves as the plant grows or cut the mature plant off and allow new growth to form.
REPRODUCE
Kale is Bi-annual so seeds usually form in the summer or second season.
Why Grow Kale?
Kale is a fantastic crop for beginner gardeners or those wanting a low-maintenance edible garden. Kale is hardy and grows well in many different conditions.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kale:
Easy to grow
Versatile produce
Low maintenance
Bulk up salads
Nutritious smoothies
Less susceptible to pests
Visual Aesthetics
Supports Immune health
Rich in Vitamin C,K,E
Can be eaten raw or cooked
Popular Kale Varieties
‘Tuscan / Tuscano’ – Heirloom variety. Produces long dark green, palm-like leaves. Popular for flavour and texture.
‘Red Russian’ – Silvery green curly leaves with striking purple veins. Young leaves are good raw and older leaves are better cooked. Great for microgreens.
‘Siberian‘ – Green curly leaves. Mild sweet flavour. Hardy and prolific.
‘Scarlet‘ – Bright purple frilly leaves. Colour deepens with cool weather. Nutritious and ornamental.
When to Plant Kale
Kale is best planted from the end of Summer to Spring. Flavour improves with cool weather. In summer plants can get covered in aphids and caterpillars and the flavour is less palatable.
How to Grow Kale
Plant seeds into seed trays first (young kale is popular with pests) and transplant them in a sunny location once they have 4-5 leaves.
Dig in compost and composted manure to feed the soil.
Kale has shallow roots so add mulch to keep retain moisture and regulate temperature.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep Kale well-watered and keep an eye out for pests.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Older plants can suffer from aphids and green caterpillars, especially in warmer months. Use natural pest management.
How/ When to Harvest
The best time to harvest your Kale is during the coldest months. This is when the flavour is at its best! Harvest a few of the bottom leaves off each plant to allow continuous growth. Towards the end of winter/ early spring, you can cut the Kale plants off just leaving the stalk in the ground. This will reshoot multiple side shoots for a new harvest into Spring.
Reproducing
Kale is biennial so it will go to flower and produce seeds in its second season/ year or if the weather gets too warm. If your Kale does go to flower, wait until the flowers turn into seed pods and once they start to dry and turn brown they can be harvested. Keep the seed pods somewhere warm and dry until they have completely dried out. Pop open the seed pods to reveal the small Kale seeds. Keep your seeds in a dry, dark cool location.
Cooking and Using Kale
Kale can be eaten raw or cooked.
Kale pairs well with: Garlic, onion, chilli, apple, lemon, potato, beetroot, sweet potato, cauliflower, cabbage, tomato, mustard, honey, radish
Kale ideas:
Salads
Smoothies
Quiche
Pie
Curry
Pastries
Stirfry
Pesto
Preserving the Harvest
Kale can be easily preserved to use throughout the year.
Rhubarb (Rhubarb rharbarmarum) is a long-living herbaceous perennial. Rhubarb is a hardy cold tolerant plant and many varieties have beautiful red stems to bring colour and aesthetics to your garden. Older heritage varieties can be saved for 100s of years and passed down through generations.
Rhubarb stems are the edible part of the plant and the leaves are poisonous. It is easy to grow and is often left alone by pests so it makes the perfect addition to a low-maintenance section of the garden.
Benefits from regular compost and natural fertilizers.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, and green caterpillars.
HARVEST
Harvest once established (1 year at least). Pull outer stalks rather than cutting.
REPRODUCE
Rhubarb can be split from the crown to reproduce. Seeds can also be collected from mature plants.
Why Grow Rhubarb?
Rhubarb is an edible that is easy to grow and looks beautiful and ornamental in the garden.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Rhubarb:
Easy to grow
Delicious for baking
Low maintenance
Jams and preserves
Cold tolerant
Less susceptible to pests
Visual Aesthetics
Anti-inflammatory
High in vitamin K
Leaves can be used to make natural insecticides.
Popular Rhubarb Varieties
‘Victoria’ – Oldest heirloom variety. Produces large pinkish-red stalks.
‘Winter wonders’ – Stems are green in summer and red in winter. Cold tolerant that produces after many other varieties have gone dormant.
‘Ever Red‘ – Year-round producing. Stalks remain red all year round.
‘Wandin Red‘ – Hardy year-round producing rhubarb with red stalks.
‘Next Generation‘ – Hybrid with bright red stalks. Easy to grow all year round.
When to Plant Rhubarb
Rhubarb is best planted from Autumn to Spring. Plants can go dormant during winter in very cold locations.
How to Grow Rhubarb
Choose a sunny location that will be available as a long-term home for the Rhubarb. Rhubarb will need a bit of space so choose a location that is roughly 1m per plant although you can plant multiple plants a little closer. Rhubarb can overshadow surrounding plants.
Dig in compost and composted manure to feed the soil.
Plant roots or seedlings at least 0.5m apart as the leaves will grow large. If planting from a root ball ensure the eye or parts where the leaves will come out from is just above the surface.
Add mulch to keep retain moisture.
Care/ Maintenance
For abundant harvests, you can feed Rhubarb every 2-3 weeks with liquid fertilizer over Spring and Summer. Rhubarb may go dormant over winter so you can stop feeding and stop harvesting. Mature Rhubarb plants may send up large flowers on a stalk. These suck all the plant energy and as Rhubarb is easily propagated from splitting the plant the seeds are not really necessary. Rhubarb seeds will not grow true to type so the results may be varied. It is recommended to cut the flower off as you see it forming (unless you want to try and save the seeds).
The best time to harvest Rhubarb is once the plants are mature enough to support their growth and can handle having stems removed. This is usually best to wait 1 year after planting. Remove one or two outer stalks from each plant. Hold the stalk near the base and gently pull and twist to remove the stalk. Do not cut the stalks as the small remaining piece may rot and cause disease to the plant. Remove the leaves as just the stalk is edible.
Reproducing
Wait until the plants are mature and have many stalkings forming from the main crown. It is best to split the plants every 3-4 years to reset and renew the plant. Split your Rhubarb in early Spring before the new growth has started. Dig up the whole plant and using a clean, sharp knife cut the main root ball into sections. Ensure each section has at least one bud or point where new leaves will form from. Place the root sections back in the soil to regrow new plants.
Cooking and Using Rhubarb
Rhubarb stalks can be eaten raw or used in baking.
Let’s dive into this incredible companion plant and explore how to grow Calendula and what to make with it! Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is a hardy edible flower that has many beneficial uses both in the garden and in the home. Calendula is easy to grow and if left to go to seed, will pop up each year in your garden with bright pops of colour.
Calendula has anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and antibacterial properties great for making healing teas, balms and lotions.
Autumn – Spring.Mild summers can grow all year round.
SOIL
Grows well in most soil types.
LOCATION
Full sun – part shade position
CARE
Consistent watering.
FERTILISE
Doesn’t require feeding.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, green caterpillars.
HARVEST
Harvest young leaves fresh and flowers once fully open.
REPRODUCE
Seeds can be saved once the petals have fallen and the flower has dried off.
Why Grow Calendula?
Calendula is an edible that provides flowers for the bees they look beautiful and ornamental in the garden.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Calendula:
Easy to grow
Flowers for the bees
Natural pest management
Low maintenance
Edible flowers
Can be used raw or cooked
Edible leaves
Healing and medicinal qualities
Protects soil
Anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, anti-fungal
Natural food colouring or dye
High in vitamin A&C
Cut flowers
Chicken coop health
Popular Calendula Varieties
‘Pink Surprise’ – Large double-layer petals with a peachy colour.
‘Double Red’ – Large double-layered petals with a deep orange colour.
‘Golden Emperor‘ – Large single-petal flowers. Daisy-like flower with bright yellow colour.
‘Balls improved orange‘ – Large double orange flowers.
‘Pacific Apricot’ – Large double-petal light yellow-peach flowers.
When to Plant Calendula
Calendula can be sown at the end of summer or autumn. It can grow all year round in some locations that have mild summers.
How to Grow Calendula
Choose a sunny location.
Plant seeds directly in the soil or in seed trays.
Plant seeds or seedlings 1 hand width apart
Protect young seedlings from slugs and snails but adding a ring of crushed eggshells
Add mulch to retain moisture
Care/ Maintenance
Calendula is a hardy, easy-to-grow plant. Harvest flowers regularly once petals are open to encourage more blooms.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Use natural pest management. Caterpillars can eat the leaves and flowers. Calendula can become a “trap” for pests and this will keep them away from your other plants.
How/ When to HarvestCalendula
The best time to harvest flowers and most vegetables is early in the morning, while the plants are hydrated. Wait until the flowers have opened usually once the sun is out. For medicinal uses, dry the flower with the green central structure attached, as that is where a lot of the healing properties are.
Reproducing
Wait until the flowers start to die off, their petals will fall and the seeds will start to form at the centre of the flower. Once they start to go brown and dry you can pick the flower and allow it to dry inside. Calendula self-seeds easily. If you would like to have flowers pop up in your garden next year, allow the seeds to dry on the plant and fall onto the soil. Once you know what calendula leaves look like you will be able to identify volunteer plants next year and dig up seedlings to spread around your garden.
Cooking and Using Calendula
Calendula flowers and leaves can be eaten raw or used in baking and home products.
NOTE: Calendula is not suitable for those who are pregnant or trying to conceive, as it may affect menstruation. Or those who are sensitive to the Asteraceae/Compositae family.
Preserving the Harvest
Calendula can be easily preserved to use throughout the year.
Calendula petals can be sprinkled in chicken bedding to help reduce ticks and bacteria. They can also be incorporated into their food which can make the egg yolks a deeper yellow colour.
Mint (Mentha) is a classic staple herb to grow that provides your kitchen garden with an abundance of fragrance and flavour. Mint can be used for both sweet and savoury dishes as well as medicinal, cleaning products, teas, and more.
Mint can be very invasive so it is important to choose the right location to grow mint so that it doesn’t take over your garden. Below will be more tips on where and how to grow mint along with creative ways to use your abundant harvests!
Sunny Position 6rs. Contain the roots in a pot or container.
CARE
Water regularly.Protect from the harsh summer sun.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, snails, green caterpillar, aphids. Rust.
HARVEST
Trim regularly. Harvest in the mornings.
REPRODUCE
Mint grows quickly from cuttings or dividing the plant up.
Why Grow Mint?
Mint is refreshing and packed full of flavour. Below are just a few of the amazing reasons to grow mint at home.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Mint:
Easy to grow
Low maintenance / hard to kill
Flavour Teas or drinks
Natural insect spray
Aids in digestion
Calming qualities
Rich in vitamin A
High in anti-oxidants
Aid in upset stomachs
Nutrient-dense
Easy to propagate
Flowers for the bees
Condiments, dressings and dips
Popular Mint Varieties
‘Peppermint’ – Classic mint variety. Sharp flavour. Often larger leaves. Great for sweets, cocktails, teas and scented products.
‘Spearmint’ – Popular mint variety. Rounded leaves. Great for Roasts, sauces, teas, baking and fresh in salads.
‘Chocolate Mint‘ – Fun flavoured mint to grow with a mild chocolate flavour. Dark reddish tinted leaves and stems.
‘Morrocan Mint‘ – Fragrant mint with subtle spiced flavour. Great for roasts, salads and teas.
‘Grapefruit Mint’ – Fresh with Grapefruit notes. Summer drinks, salads, teas, cocktails and dressings.
‘Varigated Applemint‘ –Small green and white variegated leaves. Slight fluffy leaves. Sweet apple flavour. Gret for drinks and salads.
‘Ginger Mint’ – Fresh and vibrant flavour. Great for teas, salads and dressings.
‘Berries and Cream’ – Sweet berry notes. Great for desserts, teas and cocktails.
When to Plant Mint
To start off growing Mint it can be best to plant in Spring after the last frost. Mint will do well all year round in most moderate climates.
How to Grow Mint
Choose a sunny location.
BE AWARE – Mint sends out runners under the soil and can become invasive quickly. It is always advised to grow mint in a pot or container. A repurposed garden such as a wheelbarrow also works well!
Mint will grow in nearly any soil but it’s always good to add fresh compost. Ensure the soil is free-draining so that the roots do not get waterlogged.
Protect mint from the harsh summer sun and keep well watered in hot weather.
Trimming the mint regularly will help it stay low and bushy.
Care/ Maintenance
Mint can become root bound in containers quickly so if it starts to look sad it may need to be split up and divided to allow more room for the roots.
Feed with liquid seaweed or homemade fertilizers to help add nutrients into the contained space.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Use natural pest management. Aphids can also be an issue on young shoots. Dip them in soapy water. Green caterpillars can be a problem in summer and are hard to see against the green leaves.
How/ When to Harvest
Use sharp snippers or scissors and cut the tops off regularly. This will stop the plants from getting too leggy and stay low and bushy. Harvest Mint and herbs first thing in the morning when they are hydrated and full of life. You can keep them in a jar of water until you are ready to use.
Reproducing
The best way to reproduce Mint is to take cuttings or pull up a section with roots already attached. This will start growing immediately.
Cooking and Using Mint
Mint is a great flavour enhancing herb for many different dishes.
Pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima.) is a great base crop to grow that provides your homestead with an abundance of food. Pumpkins can be stored to use throughout the year and provide a variety of uses both sweet and savoury.
Pumpkin is easy to grow if you get these key things right: Rich compost, Sun, Water, and plenty of space to roam.
Pumpkins come in three main species, known as
Cucurbita maxima – Thick skin large pumpkins (eg. Jap, Queensland Blue)
Cucurbita moschata – Winter Squash (Butternut)
Cucurbita pepo – Summer Squash
Depending on where you live in the world different species will be known as Pumpkin or winter squash. In this plant of the month, we will just be focusing on the Cucurbita maxima.
Feed with compost and with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs may get young plants.Rats can get to the pumpkins.
HARVEST
From 70-120 days.
REPRODUCE
Save seeds from the best-tasting pumpkins.
Why Grow Pumpkins?
Pumpkins are easy to grow and can provide a large amount of food. They are a great base crop to build complete dishes with both sweet and savoury.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Pumpkins:
Easy to grow
Low maintenance
The whole plant is edible: Fruit, flowers, seeds, young shoots, and leaves
A large source of food
Have their own “packaging” with a hard exterior
Rich in vitamin A
High in antioxidants
Aid in upset stomachs
Nutrient-dense food source
Easy to store
Save seeds easily for sustainable gardening
Popular Heirloom Pumpkin Varieties
‘Jarrahdale’ – Australian heirloom. Ribbed blue/grey skin and orange flesh. Sweet and smooth flesh. Weight approx 5kg. Great storage.
‘Queensland Blue’ – Popular Australian heirloom. Large grey/blue skin. Easy to grow. Great storage.
‘Turks Turban‘ – Heirloom from the 1800s. Fun to grow for its interesting shape. Orange, green and white colours. Good storage.
‘Bohemian‘ – Australian heirloom once thought to have been lost. Great for roasting. Stores well.
‘Golden Nugget’ – Small compact bushing plant – great for small spaces. Good for stuffing. Small round orange pumpkins. 1kg per pumpkin.
‘Blue Hubbard‘ –Large heirloom from the 1700s. Long vines. Great stored up to 12 months. 10kg per pumpkin.
‘Dills Atlantic‘ – Giant Pumpkin grows up to 220kg! Best used for pies and soups or winning competitions.
‘Lakota’ – Orange and Green skin with bright orange flesh. Bell-shaped. Nutty flavour. Decorative and great for storage. 2.5kg per pumpkin.
When to Plant Pumpkins
For an early season, you can start your seed off in a tray indoors or in a greenhouse. This is best at the end of winter or the start of spring. If you are sowing the seeds directly in the soil, it is best to wait until spring after frost. In warm, frost-free zones, you may be able to grow pumpkins all year round.
How to Grow Pumpkins
Choose a sunny location with plenty of space. Most pumpkins can ramble several metres but 1sqm per plant is enough.
Pile on the compost. Pumpkins are heavy feeders so mound up a pile of compost to plant your seed or seedlings on top of.
Apply mulch around the seedlings to retain moisture.
Poke a stick or stake near the mound. As the vines grow and take off you will have a locater to know where to water. Avoid watering the leaves as this can cause powdery mildew. Water around the stake.
Pumpkins can also be grown vertically if you are short on space. Provide robust trellis support and direct the vines in the direction you want. Once the pumpkins start to form, it is a good idea to place a sport underneath to that the stem can support the pumpkin as it grows. A stretchy “hammock” style support works well.
Care/ Maintenance
Try to avoid watering the leaves.
The fruit requires pollination to set and grow to maturity. If you notice the small pumpkins shrivel and die off it may be due to a lack of pollination. You can hand-pollinate by wiping pollen from the male flower onto the female flower. See more details on how here.
Feed with liquid seaweed for added nutrition if you have poor soil.
Pinch the ends of the vine off if it gets too long and wild.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Use natural pest management. Aphids can also be an issue on young shoots. Dip them in soapy water. Rats and mice may also nibble on your pumpkins. If you have issues with this you can build a crate or mesh around the pumpkin until it is ready to harvest.
How/ When to Harvest
Your pumpkins will be ready when the vine starts to die off. The closest curly tendril to the stem will be brown and going dry. The pumpkins should be slightly hollow when you know on them and have hard skins. Use sharp secateurs and cut the stem as close to the vine as you can. This will help with storage (see below).
Reproducing
The best way to reproduce pumpkins is to save the seeds. Save the seeds from your best-tasting or largest pumpkins. See the seeds saving guide here. wash and dry your seeds and store them somewhere dry and cool to replant next season.
Cooking and Using Pumpkins
Pumpkin is a great base for many sweet or savoury dishes. It can even be used as a base for many sauces and preserves.
The young leaves and shoots are also edible. These can be added to soups, curries and stir-fried. The flowers are great stuffed or used in salads. The seeds can be coated in spices and roasted for snacks or added on top of soups.
Depending on the variety, some pumpkins can be cured and stored for up to 12 months. Most will be around 6 months. The thicker the skin, the longer they last. Check the variety for a guide.
To prepare your pumpkins to store:
Cut the stem as close to the vine so that you do not damage the pumpkin.
Wash any dirt off using a hose.
Wipe the pumpkins down with a mix of Vinegar and water (1:1) This helps remove any further dirt and bacteria. Check for holes or damage to the skin. These will not store well so they should be eaten first.
Place your pumpkins somewhere dry with diffused sunlight to cure for two weeks. On the deck or porch is often a good place. This helps to harden and dry the skin.
Store your pumpkins in a cool and dark space between 10-16 degrees Celsius. Place them on a piece of cardboard or ply to protect them from bacteria or moisture on the floor.
Check your pumpkins regularly for any signs of mould or softening. Discard them so that they don’t affect the others.
