In hot climates, heat isn’t the only thing stressing your garden – create windbreaks to reduce heat stress and protect your garden this summer. Here in my Perth garden, summer not only brings disgustingly hot temperatures (40+ degree club) but it also brings HOT WINDS to double the heat stress. Wind pulls more moisture from leaves, dries soil faster than the sun ever could, and turns hot days into survival mode for plants. Even a “mild” breeze can double water loss in summer, which means wilting, leaf scorch, poor fruiting, and stressed soil life! Most summer gardening advice focuses on sun and water…But in hot climates, windbreaks and shade are key! If you’re gardening in heat, windbreaks are one of the most underrated tools for building a resilient, productive summer garden.
Why Wind Is So Damaging in Hot Climates
In summer, plants are already working hard to stay cool. They regulate temperature by releasing water through their leaves (transpiration). Wind forces this process to speed up. Creating windbreaks for heat stress will help your gardens survive a hot summer!
The result: Faster moisture loss from leaves, increased evaporation from soil, reduced humidity around plants, and greater demand on root systems. This creates compound stress: Heat stress + wind stress means plants end up burnt and crispy faster! That’s why a garden can fail in summer even when you’re watering well.
What a Windbreak Actually Does for Heat Stress
A windbreak doesn’t stop wind completely…instead, it slows and filters airflow, creating a calmer environment for plants to thrive. By reducing the speed of the wind, it lowers evaporation from both soil and leaves, helping your garden retain moisture more effectively. Young plants and fruit trees benefit particularly, as they are less stressed and more likely to grow strong. Even partial wind protection can reduce wind speed by 30–50%, producing a noticeable improvement in plant health and water retention throughout the garden.
Where Windbreaks Matter Most in Hot Summer Gardens
Front yards and newly established gardens tend to be hit hardest because they’re often open on multiple sides, with little existing shelter. This creates a funnel effect and increases the speed of the winds. Exposed sites and sandy soils make the problem worse, as moisture is already quick to drain, and wind accelerates drying even further.
Here in my garden the the western and south-western sides of the garden are usually the most vulnerable. This is where hot afternoon winds arrive, compounding heat stress at the exact moment plants are already struggling to cope. Summer winds tend to be predictable, so it is important to work out which direction your garden is getting hit with. You may live near the coast and have a strong afternoon sea breeze or swirling winds from nearby buildings.
Also, some plants just really hate wind more than others! Trees like avocado, banana, tamarillo, papaya, and even young citrus really do not like wind. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, stems snap or bend under pressure, and growth often stalls despite good soil and regular watering. In windy conditions, these trees may survive, but they rarely thrive or are productive. Tall Banana leaves can get shredded, and that causes a huge reduction in photosynthesis – resulting in smaller banana racks or none at all….
How to Create Effective Windbreaks to Reduce Heat Stress in the Garden
The most successful windbreaks don’t try to block wind completely. Instead, they slow it down, filter it, and soften its impact. Solid walls or fences often create swirling winds, sending fast-moving air over the top and around the edges. A good windbreak works with airflow, not against it.
In summer gardens, wind protection usually falls into three categories: living windbreaks, temporary windbreaks, and permanent structures. Many gardens use a combination of all three, especially while new plantings are establishing.
I prefer to use living windbreaks in the garden, but while I’m waiting for these to establish, I set up temporary relief around more vulnerable plants such as Avocados.
Living Windbreaks: The Most Effective Long-Term Solution
Living windbreaks are the ultimate goal for long-term sustainable gardens inhot climates.Because they’re permeable, they reduce wind speed gradually rather than deflecting it harshly, creating calmer, more stable growing conditions – which we like! And so will your plants.
Well-chosen and placed plants also provide multiple benefits beyond wind protection — shade, organic matter for chop & drop, habitat for beneficial insects, and often food. Having plants that have multiple uses and benefits will skyrocket your garden’s success!
Good options for hot climates include pigeon pea, moringa, pomegranate, mulberry, feijoa, katuk, queensland arrowroot, natives, and clumping bamboo (always clumping, never running). These plants handle heat well and respond positively to pruning, making them easy to shape over time. Some, like the Mulberry and Pomegranate, are deciduous, so they will let light in during winter. If you want wind protection or privacy screening all year round, go for an evergreen tree such as Feijoa or Pigeon pea.
I have recently planted a bunch or queensland arrowroot and pigeon pea around the western sides of my raised garden beds. These will grow fast to offer protection from the hot afternoon sun. Helping not only shade the annula veggie patch but also reduce the sides of the garden beds from heating up.
The key to success is layering. A mix of heights and leaf textures filters wind far more gently than a single solid hedge. Taller trees slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and ground-level plants protect soil from drying out. As a bonus, living windbreaks improve the overall resilience and productivity of the garden as they mature. If you don’t need them during a season, then you can cut them back to let light in or increase airflow during the wet season. Essentially, growing a windbreak and your own mulch or fertiliser.
Plants That Make the Best Living Windbreaks and more!
A living windbreak doesn’t just slow wind, it can also feed your garden, protect your soil, and improve the microclimate. Choosing plants with multiple benefits ensures your windbreak contributes to long-term garden productivity.
Perennial Options
Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for chop-and-drop mulch, summer shade.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera) – Edible leaves, mulch, deep roots for soil stabilisation, drought-tolerant.
Mulberry (Morus spp.) – Fruit for humans and wildlife, deciduous (lets light in winter), dense foliage for wind filtering.
Corn (Zea mays) – Tall seasonal buffer, biomass for mulch, edible stalks and cobs.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) – Tall leafy annual, edible leaves and seeds, provides shelter for smaller plants.
Using Native Plants for Hardier Windbreaks
Native plants are often underappreciatedin hot, windy gardens. Because they’ve evolved in local climates, many are naturally hardy, drought-tolerant, and well-adapted to cope with constant airflow. Their sturdy, scrubbing growth habit makes them particularly effective as living windbreaks, creating dense layers of protection without requiring excessive maintenance.
Using native trees and shrubs can also boost biodiversity, providing habitat and food for local birds, insects, and beneficial wildlife. Many species are evergreen, giving year-round wind protection. By selecting a mix of heights, textures, and flowering times, you can build a multi-functional windbreak that slows wind, stabilizes soil, and adds so much value to the garden, as well as creating windbreaks for heat stress! I plan to have a row growing along my verge to act as a buffer from the road, not only providing wind breaks but also plenty of food for the pollinators.
Some examples of hardy native windbreak plants for hot climates include:
Acacia spp. – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for screening.
Callistemon / Bottlebrush – Dense, flowering shrubs that tolerate heat and wind.
Leptospermum spp. (Tea tree) – Tough shrubs or small trees, wind- and drought-hardy.
Eucalyptus spp. (small varieties) – Provide taller screening with minimal water once established.
By integrating natives into your windbreak design, you not only protect your more delicate plants but also create a resilient, self-sustaining garden ecosystem. In combination with perennials, annuals, and temporary barriers, natives make wind protection both effective and beautiful.
Temporary Windbreaks: When You Need Protection Fast
Not every garden has the luxury of time. New plantings, heatwaves, or exposed sites often need immediate protection while permanent solutions are slowly establishing. Temporary windbreaks are not always the most aesthetic…. but they can dramatically reduce stress in a very short time.
Shade cloth at 30–50% allows airflow while slowing wind speed.
Mesh fencing and trellises act as effective filters, especially when combined with climbing plants.
Tall, fast-growing seasonal crops like corn, sunflowers, or sorghum can also act as living wind buffers during the hottest months.
These short-term solutions are flexible and forgiving. They can be adjusted, moved, or removed as conditions change, and often become part of a longer-term windbreak strategy rather than a wasted effort.
Permanent Structures: Supporting the System
Fences, walls, sheds, and pergolas can all form part of a broader windbreak system to reduce heat stress when combined with planting. On their own, solid structures tend to create wind tunnels and pressure points, but softened with plants or placed strategically, they help redirect and slow airflow across the garden. Planting vertical climbers can not only reduce the speed of the wind but also help cool it down. Passionfruit is a great heat-tolerant climber that can help soften permanent structures, or try grapes for a deciduous option.
The most resilient summer gardens rarely rely on a single solution. Instead, they build layers of protection over time, starting with temporary measures and evolving toward living windbreaks that grow more effective with each season.
Plants That Struggle in Hot Windy Gardens
Some plants simply don’t cope well with high winds. Wind can tear leaves, stress stems, accelerate water loss, and stunt growth in these species. Knowing which plants are vulnerable helps you place them wisely and protect them with windbreaks.
Avocado (Persea americana) – Large, soft leaves and shallow roots make it prone to leaf damage and windburn.
Banana (Musa spp.) – Tall, flexible stems and wide leaves shred easily, resulting in poor growth and production. They also topple over easily.
Tamarillo / Tree Tomato (Solanum betaceum) – Fragile stems and leaves are easily damaged, affecting fruit production.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – Tall, thin stems with large leaves are highly susceptible to wind stress.
Young citrus (especially lemon, lime, and mandarin) – Small branches can snap, flowers drop, and young trees struggle in constant wind.
Soft-leafed subtropicals – Any tender, large-leafed plant benefits from partial wind protection until established.
Maximising Your Windbreak to Reduce Heat Stress
The key to a resilient windbreak for heat stress is layering plants of different heights and growth habits. Tall trees or fast-growing perennials slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and annuals or low-growing perennials fill in gaps and protect soil. Combining food, mulch, and nitrogen-fixing plants ensures your windbreak contributes to soil fertility, provides food, and stabilises the microclimate for your main crops. Even a small suburban garden can benefit from a multi-layered, multifunctional windbreak, giving you calm, protected spaces, improved yields, and less stress in a hot climate!
If your garden struggles every summer, you’re not alone! Trying to protect your garden from Heat in a hot climate, especially in places like Perth… is tough! The sun is so harsh, and summer seems to drag on forever! The soil dries out faster, and plants need backup systems to survive. But it doesn’t have to be a struggle… I want to share everything I’ve learned from growing in a hot climate like Perth, and what I wish I had done sooner….to help keep your garden thriving through a hot summer!
Start Your Garden with Hardy, Heat-Tolerant Plants
A resilient summer garden starts with strong foundations. Hardy plants give structure, create shade, and protect more sensitive species as your garden matures. Think of them as your garden’s framework. This is a garden design strategy I have used since starting my edible gardens, and now that I have more established trees, I have started adding in the more sensitive tropicals. Begin by creating the growth structure from heat-tolerant plants that support everything else. Plant these in hot spots near driveways or to protect your garden from the hot afternoon sun.
Use hardy trees and shrubs on the outer edges, such as:
These plants work as windbreaks, reduce evaporation, cool the garden, and help create microclimates. I focus on planting these in hot spots near driveways or bordering the areas that get hot afternoon sun. Then bring in deciduous trees (like stone fruit) closer to your annual garden beds to provide your patch with much-needed shade in summer but let the sunlight in during winter. And don’t forget perennials!
Grow Living Shade!The Best Way to Keep Your Garden Cool
Fast-growing “living shade” is honestly a game-changer to easily protect your garden from heat… even if it’s temporary. Use quick growers to create a shady “umbrella-like” canopy by planting things like:
Moringa
Papaya
Pigeon pea,
Cassava
Banana
Mulberry
These plants grow fast, create dappled shade, and cool the entire garden. They also act as temporary “nurse plants” for your fruit trees. These don’t need to be permanent. You can utilise them for a few years while your main trees grow, then take cuttings, save seeds and chop and drop them to create mulch and organic fertiliser. I have grown mulberries from a cutting, and after a few years of harvesting fruit and utilising the shade, I have removed them to give my other trees the space they need.
Mulching & Groundcoversto Protect Your Garden from Heat
Something I have learned from gardening in sandy soil is the importance of continuously adding fibre and nutrients to my soil. If you’re in a dry, hot climate like me here in Perth, growing mulch plants could save your garden! Use living mulches like sweet potato, pumpkin, New Zealand spinach, and Nasturtium to protect bare soil and suppress weeds. Mulching doesn’t just help retain moisture…It also protects the shallow feeder roots of fruit trees from getting hot and cooked! And the bonus… mulch breaks down into compost, feeding soil microbes and improving soil structure over time.
Add Vertical Gardens
Adding vertical structures like trellises, arches, and fences for climbers (passionfruit, beans, grapes, cucumbers) creates natural shade for the garden beds underneath. Creating micro-shade pockets. Plan your layout to off the best shade for your garden. Growing edible climbers that are deciduous can be a great way to create summer shade, but let the light in during winter when they lose their leaves. I have grape vines growing over my raised garden beds to add summer protection from the heat, produce delicious crops and also allow winter sun to reach my garden.
Watering Strategies for Extreme Heat
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly — not because they’re not watered enough. Water deeply and less often. Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant. Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly…. not because they’re not watered enough.
✔️ Water deeply and less often- Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant.
✔️ Cover your soil – whether that is with mulch, ground covers/living mulch or even better, a combination of both! This will help retain moisture and keep the soil alive.
✔️ Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
✔️ Best times to water: early morning (best) or late afternoon (second best). Avoid midday watering — 80% of the water evaporates, and water on the leaves can burn your plants.
✔️ Sandy soils can also drain water fast and can easily become hydrophobic. It is important to add fibre by increasing the organic matter. This can be done by adding compost, manure, chop and drop and mulching.
High-Density & Succession Planting to Create Microclimates
This is honestly one of my biggest summer survival strategies…High-density planting helps shade the soil, reduce evaporation, minimise hot wind, and create cooler microclimates. Plants actually protect each other… more foliage means more shade and less moisture loss.
Annuals – Fill gaps quickly with fast growers like basil, bush beans, or herbs.
Perennials – Use mulch plants, nitrogen fixers, low shrubs, tall canopy plants, hardy fruit trees, and ground covers to fill all the gaps.
Succession planting fruit trees is a concept I dabbled in early on, but I wish I had gone harder! Planting from seed and cuttings will allow you to plant more and utilise high-density without the fear of deleting them later down the track. High-density doesn’t mean overcrowding… it means layering, timing, and letting plants work together… instead of cooking alone. They don’t ALL need to be permanent…some can be “nurse trees” until your “main fruit trees” are established.
What to Do Before a Heatwave Hits
When a heatwave is in the forecast, a little preparation can make the difference between a thriving garden and a fried one. These quick actions help your plants stay hydrated, cool, and protected during extreme temperatures — and they take less than an hour to set up.
Water deeply the night before – Give your plants a long, slow soak so the water reaches deep into the root zone. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and keeps plants stable through the hottest part of the day.
Add temporary shade cloth – A simple 30–50% shade cloth over garden beds, young fruit trees, or tender plants such as avocados and young tropicals can prevent sunburn and drastically reduce heat stress and wind damage. Even a beach umbrella or an old sheet works (allow airflow).
Move pots into shade or under cover – Potted plants heat up far quicker than plants in the ground. Move them against a cool wall, under a patio, or beneath a tree canopy to protect their roots from overheating.
Mulch any exposed soil – Bare soil is the fastest to dry out and heat up. Add a thick layer of mulch around fruit trees, garden beds, and seedlings to keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation.
Water deeply early in the morning – Give your plants a long, slow soak at sunrise. This allows the water to move deep into the soil before the sun becomes intense. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and helps your plants stay hydrated throughout the day.
Grow and Chop-and-Drop Your Own Mulch
I think one of the best ways to protect your garden from heat is to grow your own mulch. It not only offers shade when you need it, but you also get to chop it back to create your own organic mulch or fertiliser. This will help feed your soil and, in turn, improve the water retention! a WIN-WIN. When your garden produces its own leafy biomass, you have a constant supply of materials that cool the soil, protect roots, and feed the microbes that build long-term resilience. It’s a system that works with your climate instead of against it.
Great chop-and-drop plants for hot climates include:
Pigeon pea – fast-growing, drought-tolerant, nitrogen-fixing
Queensland Arrowroot – Repopulates fast with water-filled stems
Moringa – rapid growth and abundant leafy material
Lemongrass – dense, fibrous clumps that suppress weeds
Cassava – hardy, productive, and perfect for biomass
Mexican sunflower (Tithonia) – one of the fastest biomass producers
These plants bounce back quickly after pruning and thrive even in harsh conditions. Each layer protects the roots from harsh sun, reduces water loss, and breaks down into organic matter that improves soil structure over time. It’s the most sustainable long-term strategy for gardeners in hot, dry climates.
🌱 Want a deeper guide to mulch plants, chop-and-drop strategies, and soil-building techniques?
You’ll love my ebookHow to Grow Your Own Natural Fertiliser, where I break down exactly how to select, grow, and use mulch plants to create a self-feeding, low-maintenance garden. It’s packed with practical tips specifically for hot climates and sandy soils.
Looking for a healthy, homemade wrap alternative? These DIY spinach sushi wraps are a delicious and nutritious way to use up garden greens and create quick, wholesome meals. Whether you follow a gluten-free, low-carb, or plant-based lifestyle, these wraps are a game-changer. Made from fresh spinach, herbs, and garden vegetables, they’re packed with nutrients and completely free from preservatives and additives.
These wraps have the texture of nori but are 100% vegetable-based. Use them for sushi, wraps, or as a healthy tortilla alternative. This is the perfect recipe for zero-waste gardeners who want to make the most of their seasonal harvests. I am so impressed with how amazing these are!
These dehydrated spinach sushi wraps taste and feel just like the real deal but I know exactly what is in them. Use excess garden greens along with bottle gourd or zucchini to make a batch of sushi wraps for a quick and easy lunch. Like most of my recipes, you can mix and match different greens and herbs depending on what’s in season or in abundance in your garden.
Garden Vegetable Variations
Don’t have spinach? No problem. Try other leafy greens such as:
NZ spinach (Tetragonia)
Swiss chard
Rocket/arugula
Sweet potato leaves
Amaranth greens
You can even mix in edible weeds like chickweed or purslane for extra nutrition.
Recipe Notes
Psyllium Husk helps bind the mixture and gives flexibility.
Herbs are optional but add great flavor.
Dehydration Time varies depending on water content and thickness.
Spinach "sushi" wraps
Yield: 8
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 6 hours
Total Time: 6 hours10 minutes
Easy way to preserve excess produce and have wraps on hand for a quick garden-to-plate lunch when you need it.
Ingredients
4 cups spinach or greens*
1/2 cup fresh herbs*
1 TBSP psyllium husk
1 - 2 TBSP water
2 cups chopped bottle of gourd or zucchini
Instructions
Rinse the greens and quickly blanch for 30 seconds in hot water then transfer to iced water to cool.
Strain and add to a mixer or blender. (use the blanching water on the garden once it has cooled down)
Peel Bottle gourd using a vegetable peeler, remove the center seeds and pith then chop into 2-3cm cubes. If using zucchini there is no need to peel.
Add all the ingredients to a blender or mixer and blitz until combined. You may need to move things about with a spoon to get it mixed or add a dash more water. You want a thick paste-like consistency not too watery.
Spread the mixture onto 3-4 silicon dehydrator trays. You may need to do this in batches or use baking paper and a tray if you do not have enough of the silicon trays. The mixture should be thick enough to not see through to the tray or paper but also as thin and even as you can (before seeing through to the tray)
Dehydrate at 50 degrees celsius until dry. Check after 2-3 hours as the time will vary depending on the water content of the greens you used.
Remove and carefully run a knife around the edges to loosen it. Carefully peel off the sheet it is best to do this one bit at a time holding the sheet as close to the tray as possible as to not tear it.
Once removed from the tray cut the sheets into the desired size (I cut in half for wraps but I keep them whole for sushi rolls) then roll them up and place them in an airtight storage jar. Or use them straight away. would
Use the wraps with your favorite salad ingredients and grilled chicken, haloumi or similar.
Notes
Greens - I used NZ spinach including the young stems but you could use any spinach or greens such as chard, rocket, sweet potato leaves etc just remove any thick stems.
Herbs - add herbs or leave them out (replace with more greens) completely up to you. Try adding 1/2 cup of herb such as parsley, chives or coriander for added flavour.
If you do not have a dehydrator you can use an oven on low to 50 degrees but be aware it may take up 6 hours so ensure you are home and not leaving the oven unattended.
These homemade spinach sushi wraps are a sustainable way to reduce kitchen waste and boost your nutrition. Whether you’re preserving an abundant garden harvest or just trying to eat healthier, they’re a delicious, eco-friendly addition to your kitchen staples.
These Zucchini wrapped haloumi skewers are so delicious and easy to make! Marinated in my favourite green sauce plus the Rosemary flavour also infuses during cooking. I made this during one of my YouTube live streams and had to share the recipe! Serve on a fresh salad or with a charcuterie board. These would also be great for summer BBQs.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a fragrant perennial herb. Rosemary is a hardy, drought-tolerant shrub and can also be used as an ornamental due to its evergreen foliage and purple or white edible flowers. Rosemary is a great herb to plant on your journey to sustainability, as it has a large list of beneficial uses for the garden, home, kitchen, plus many medicinal qualities. When Rosemary flowers it will attract an abundance of beneficial pollinators to increase your garden’s production.
Zucchini wrapped Haloumi on Rosemary Skewers
Yield: 9
Prep Time: 25 minutes
Cook Time: 8 minutes
Total Time: 8 minutes
Easy and delicious these Rosemary Skewers make a quick lunch or entertaining dish.
Ingredients
1 medium Zuchinni
1 packet Haloumi
Olive oil
9 Rosemary sprigs
Green Dressing (available below for logged in members or see notes)
Instructions
Soak the Haloumi in a bowl of water for 5-10 mins while prepping the rest of the dish (optional but reduces the salt and makes the halloumi softer).
Cut the Zucchini into thin ribbons using a wide vegetable peeler.
Prepare the green sauce or marinade (available below for logged-in members or see notes)
Pour half the marinade over the zucchini Ribbons.
Remove the haloumi from the water, cut it into squares roughly 1-2cm, and place in the bowl with the remainder of the marinade.
Place the ribbons and halloumi in the fridge to marinate further for 10-20min.
Heat a pan with olive oil on medium heat.
Lay a zucchini strip out flat and place a haloumi cube at the beginning then roll to wrap the square.
Strip 3/4 of the leaves from the rosemary skewers (see notes if you are using the leaves for the marinade you will need to do this at the beginning).
Place 3 wrapped cubes on a skewer and place in the pan. Cook until golden on each side - roughly 3 minutes each side.
Serve on a fresh salad with lemon or lime wedges and extra green sauce or a creamy yogurt dressing.
Notes
Non-member's alternative to the green dressing - Strip 3/4 of the leaves from the Rosemary sprigs. Roughly chop and add 1/4 cup of Olive Oil and use that as the marinade.
Swap Haloumi for Feta or Vegan Cheese
P.S - I make the members green dressing in the YouTube live.
Green Sauce Chimichurri
This vibrant green dressing is packed full of flavour and is a delicious way to add a fresh zing to your meals.
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Do you have areas that get very hot, full sun, and nothing seems to survive? These 22 heat-tolerant edible plants to grow in HOT full-sun locations will help you grow productive edible gardens. I’ve been growing food here in Perth, Australia, for the last 10 years, and let me tell you, it was a big change and learning curve coming from the lush green of New Zealand.
Today, I’m sharing some plant ideas to plant in those super hot locations, but keep reading to the end because it’s not just about what you plant, but also when and how! Bonus tips on that, so you can turn your hot barren wasteland into productive edible gardens.
Click to WATCH 22 heat-tolerant edible plants
22 Heat-tolerant Edible Plants for Full Sun
1. Rosemary
Attracts bees 🐝 and has healing properties, and is great for skin and hair care. Flavour-enhancing culinary herb🌿 When I first moved here, I wondered why so many houses had Rosemary hedges out the front – and it’s because it thrives on neglect and our poor sandy soils. Rosemary is a great heat-tolerant addition to your edible garden. Try making your own Rosemary Salt.
2. Guava – Strawberry & Tropical
Strawberry/cherry, lemon cherry, and tropical Hawaiian/Thai guavas are really hardy, low-maintenance fruit trees that produce bucketloads of fruit!
3. Mulberry
Another powerhouse perennial that survives on neglect – they grow super fast so you can use these as a nanny plant or a pioneer plant. If you have a barren hot area you could plant a Mulberry to get quick shade established and later on remove it or heavily prune if it gets too big. Mulberry also loses leaves in winter to let light in.
4. Lavender
Lavender is drought-tolerant – a great pollinator plant with many medicinal (calming and sleep) and culinary uses. In my garden (which will be different with climates and varieties) Lavender flowers at the same time as my Feijoas so I have it planted in between them to attract pollinators and increase my Feijoa harvests.
5. Feijoa / Pineapple Guava
If you have been following me on Instagram or subscribed to my YouTube, you will have guessed this plant would make the list 😂 Low maintenance, super hardy, and produces plenty of food! Feijoas do taste better when they get 50 chill hours a year so they aren’t optimally grown here in Perth, but they do grow well and are drought-tolerant. They are evergreen and super bushy, so they can be grown as an edible hedge. They are known to have fire-retardant qualities, which is very handy for hot, dry climates. If you are looking to purchase a Feijoa, choose a named variety (such as Duffy, White Goose, Mammoth, plus more) as these will perform better and produce fruit faster than generic seedling plants.
6. Passionfruit
Passionfruit is an edible vine that can be used to cover a fence, structure, or grown over an arbor to create shade. This can help cool your garden down and provide delicious fruit. Passionfruit flowers can also be used to make calming teas to aid in sleep and anxiety. NOTE: Avoid planting a grafted variety the grafts take over and become invasive, hard to get rid of, and don’t produce good fruit.
7. Citrus
Citrus like full sun and, once established, can thrive in hot environments. Avoid planting new trees before or during the hot summer so that they have time to get their roots established before the added stress of summer.
8. Lemon Verbena
A fragrant lemony scent that is similar to lemongrass. Lemon Verbena is great in teas, baking, and all the things! Lemon verbena is one of those plants that quietly becomes a favourite. Its leaves have a sweet, lemony fragrance—similar to lemongrass but softer—and the whole plant smells incredible when you brush past it. It’s perfect for teas, baking, syrups, and infused water,and it keeps its flavour really well when dried. I always keep a jar in the pantry for quick herbal tea blends. In the garden, lemon verbena is easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. It drops its leaves in winter (don’t worry, it’s normal!) and comes back quickly once the weather warms.
9. Pomegranate
Pomegranates are one of the best heat-tolerant fruit trees you can grow in a hot climate. They thrive in full sun, handle dry conditions like champions, and still reward you with glossy red fruit and bright, beautiful flowers. They’re incredibly low-maintenance, needing far less water than most fruit trees once established. Their deep roots make them drought-resilient, and they’re also naturally pest-resistant — perfect for gardens with harsh summers. If you’re building a resilient, water-wise garden, pomegranates are a must-have: tough, productive, and beautiful all year round.
10. Loquat
Loquats are incredibly hardy, fast-growing fruit trees that thrive in hot, dry climates. They handle poor soils, need very little care once established, and fruit heavily in late winter–spring when not much else is producing. Their sweet, tangy fruit is amazing fresh or made into sauces, and the large, glossy leaves give your garden a lush, tropical look with almost no effort. Loquats can be a pest plant because they grow so easily, and birds spread the seeds, so check with your local area.
11. Lilly Pilly
Lilly pillies are tough, water-wise Australian natives perfect for hedges, screens, or structure in hot climates. They handle heat, humidity, pests, and pruning exceptionally well. Many varieties produce edible pink or purple berries that can be made into jams or syrups. They’re also fantastic habitat plants for beneficial insects and birds. Part of the Syzygium genus is a great dense evergreen hedging plant with bright pink fruits. The fruits are edible and can be made into jams, sauces, and even sparking wine!
12. NZ Spinach / Warrigal Greens
NZ Spinach is one of the best heat-tolerant leafy greens for summer. It thrives when regular spinach collapses, spreading as a groundcover that shades and protects the soil. Harvest the tender tips regularly for stir-fries, and sautés. It’s low-maintenance, productive, and perfect for filling gaps in hot, sunny beds. Due to oxalates it does need to be cooked first.
13. Malabar Spinach
Malabar spinach is a vigorous climbing vine that absolutely loves the heat. Its fleshy, succulent leaves stay tender and productive even in scorching weather, and it grows beautifully over trellises to create summer shade. It’s ideal for warm climates but doesn’t tolerate frost, so give it a protected spot if your winters are cold.
14. Quince
Quince is a hardy, drought-tolerant fruit tree that thrives in hot conditions and poor soils. It produces large, fragrant yellow fruit perfect for making jams, jellies, pastes, and preserves. The tree itself is stunning with pretty spring flowers.
15. Zinnia
Zinnia is an edible flower that thrives in hot dry conditions. Zinnia has vibrant flowers in a huge range of colours. The great thing about Zinnia is that it produces nectar so it attracts a diverse range of pollinators to the garden such as bees, hoverflies, butterflies, and small birds. Zinnia is susceptible to powdery mildew so great for dry summers.
16. Sunflower
I love growing Sunflowers because they attract a huge amount of pollinators to the garden, and you can pretty much eat the whole plant! I use the petals fresh in a salad or press them to use on baking as garnishes. The seeds can be used on top of salads, to make oil, or to make spreads, and the leaves are also edible. Sunflower stems can even be made into flour! Sunflowers also help remove toxins from the soil, so they are a fantastic addition to a hot, full-sun garden.
17. Figs
Figs are one of the most reliable hot-climate fruit trees. They adore full sun, tolerate drought once established, and produce incredibly sweet fruit with almost no fuss. They grow well even in poor or sandy soil, making them ideal for Perth-style gardens. Prune them in winter to keep them compact and productive.
18. Olive
Olives are true Mediterranean survivors, heat-tolerant, drought-resilient, and long-lived. They thrive on tough love and poor soil, and they’re surprisingly productive even with minimal watering. Whether you grow them for fruit or as hardy ornamental structure, olives add beautiful silvery foliage and year-round resilience to hot-climate gardens.
19. Grapes
Grapes are great for growing over structures to provide shade to your garden and help other plants grow. Grapes are deciduous so they lose their leaves in winter to let light in and have full leaf coverage in summer to protect from the harsh midday sun. Grape plants have so many uses from fresh delicious table grapes to jams, preserves, and wine! grape leaves also have many uses in the kitchen.
20. Hollyhock
Hollyhocks are edible flowers that can grow up to 10 feet tall! They attract 100 of pollinators to the garden, and their height acts as a flag inviting them in. The leaves are also edible and can be cooked to make wraps. Hollyhocks are an annual so they will need to be planted again each year but they are so worth it! They can be susceptible to powdery mildew.
21. Thyme
Thyme is a hardy herb that thrives in hot conditions. Thyme is very versatile in the kitchen and pairs well with tomato dishes, on pizza, and roast veggies. Thyme also produces masses of tiny white flowers that attract an array of beneficial insects and pollinators. Thyme creeps over the ground so it makes a great edible ground cover plant.
22. Macadamia Nut
Macadamia nut trees can take a long time to start producing (5-7 years) but are really hardy and nuts are great additions to a homestead to make flour and milk from.
8 Tips for Successfully Growing Heat-Tolerant Edible Plants
Many of these heat-tolerant plants listed are perennials, and the reason perennials are so good for hot environments is that they have established roots and have time to get used to their environment. Annuals such as lettuce and tomatoes are planted new and have shallow roots so are more vulnerable to overheating.
Below are some tips to help you get your plants established and thriving through hot periods.
Avoid planting in hot weather (always check the forecast)
Provide temporary protection,such as shade cloth or umbrellas, during hot periods.
Grow nanny plants or pioneer plants (quick-growing trees that provide dappled shade in summer eg: grapes, mulberry, and deciduous fruit trees)
Plant new trees in pots until after the summer heat has passed
Plant densely – allow other plants to protect and shade each other and the soil.
Grow Endless Fertiliser
Growing food in a hot climate doesn’t have to be a struggle. By choosing tough, heat-tolerant plants, layering your garden with support species, and working with your climate instead of against it, you can build a garden that stays productive all summer long.
If you want to take it even further, my new ebook Grow Your Own Natural Fertiliser shows you how to build healthier soil, boost resilience, and keep your garden thriving — even in extreme heat. It’s the perfect next step for creating a truly self-sustaining garden.
Lemon balm has calming and soothing properties that can reduce stress and anxiety. This refreshing summer drink may help you chill out and unwind. Nothing beats an iced cold lemonade after a busy day working in the garden but this homemade version with fresh ingredients is a winner!
Lemon Balm Lemonade
Yield: 4-6 glasses
Prep Time: 35 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Refreshing and soothing this botanical lemonade is the perfect summer drink to enjoy in the garden.
Ingredients
1 cup Lemon Balm Leaves
1 fresh lime
1 fresh lemon
3 TBSP Raw local Honey
2 cups sparkling water
1 cup water
Instructions
Roughly chop up the lemon balm leaves.
Bring 1 cup of water to a simmer in a pot. Remove from heat and add lemon balm. Place a lid on and let it infuse for at least 30 minutes.
Using a blunt object such as the end of a rolling pin, crush the leaves and flowers into the water to extract more.
Using a sieve, strain the liquid into a jug, and squeeze out any extra liquid from the leaves..
Add in honey and stir until the honey has dissolved. Use less or more honey depending on how sweet you like it.
Squeeze the juice of the lime and lemon and add to the jug. Stir to combine.
Add in sparking water and serve in glasses over ice.
To serve add extra lemon balm leaves and dehydrated lemon or lime.
Notes
Add in other herbs to create your own unique blends. Try Calendula, Mint, Lemon verbena, and Lavender.
