One of the biggest game changers in my food forest has been learning to stop removing things from the garden — and instead, use what I have.. I’m not just tidying up every time I prune my fruit trees. I’m actually feeding the garden and growing soil. The secret? It’s called chop and drop mulching, and it’s honestly one of the easiest, most sustainable ways to improve your nutrient-deficient or sandy soil. If you’ve been composting your prunings, or worse — sending them off in the green bin — you’re not only creating more work for yourself…but you’re also missing out on a free, zero-waste way to build healthier, more productive trees and soil. It’s such a simple system to create a more sustainable garden.
PLUS, there’s one key reason WHY I feed plants back their OWN prunings... Find out more below and why it’s such a game-changer for a self-sufficient garden 🌱
What Is Chop and Drop Mulching?
Chop and drop mulching is essentially exactly what it sounds like. You chop your trees or plants and drop them right back onto the soil. That’s it. There’s no hauling branches to a compost pile, no bagging up green waste — just letting nature do what it does best.
But… there are a few tips to follow to maximise the results and create the best free fertilizer for your garden!
Think of it as mimicking a forest. In nature, no one is clearing up leaves or broken branches. They fall, decompose, and feed the soil. We’re just copying that same cycle in a more intentional way in our backyards.
Because I plant my food forest and gardens so densely, I need to prune them back regularly. This not only lets light in to the lower levels, but I like to keep my trees at a height that I can always reach the fruit. That way, it is easy to pick and bag or net the trees to reduce pests from getting my precious harvests. In my urban permaculture garden, I would rather have many small trees than only a couple of large, high-yielding trees.
I use chop and drop under my all fruit trees, shrubs, perennial beds — anywhere I’ve got plants that love a healthy, rich soil layer. There is one exception that I will explain below…
Why It Works: Benefits of Chop and DropMulching
This super simple method packs in a whole heap of benefits:
Nutrient Recycling: The prunings are full of nutrients your tree has already put the effort and energy into absorbing. Returning them directly back to the soil means those nutrients go straight back to the roots. Exponentially increasing the fertility of the soil for that fruit tree or plant.
Moisture Retention: The mulch layer helps keep the soil cool and moist, especially in hot climates like here in Perth! This is crucial!
by consistently covering the soil it blocks light, and builds nutrients to help your ground covers and lower-level plants compete.
Soil Health: It adds organic matter, supports fungi and microbes, and builds better soil structure over time. Fruit trees LOVE the fungal properties that small branches and mulch provide.
Less Work & Less Waste: No wheelbarrow trips to the compost or green bin — prune and leave it be. Find out what size to cut your prunings below.
I’ve seen huge improvements in my soil by doing this consistently. Soil is THE KEY to a thriving garden, and it is actually more important to grow and build soil than to care for your fruit trees. Healthy soil will naturally grow strong, healthy trees with so much LESS EFFORT. Trees that looked stressed or slow to grow have bounced back once I started feeding the soil this way.
How Do You Chop and Drop Properly?
Prune Your Tree: Generally, the best time to prune trees is directly after they have fruited. Once you have picked the ripe fruit, you can prune the tree to keep the size manageable and give nutrients back after it has put the effort into fruiting. Avoid pruning during hot weather. Focus on removing dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Keep your trees open, airy, and manageable.
Chop It Up: Use CLEAN and SHARP secateurs. This will reduce any disease being spread and sharp cutting tools allow for clean cuts. Clean cuts will heal quicker and easier, putting less stress on the tree.
Pick a Size: How big or small to cut up your prunings depends on the effort you wish to put in and the thickness and density of the tree. Obviously, the smaller you cut up the pieces, the quicker they will break down and feed the soil. But if you want to hand-cut everything into inch-sized pieces, you could be there all day or even weeks…. which is not EASY or MANAGEABLE. With smaller tree branches, I like to use a small mulcher to break the branches into smaller pieces. The softer plants like shrubs, Banana,Queensland Arrowroot,Pigeon Pea, etc I just cut up very roughly into 10-30cm pieces, but you could even leave them as is if you have space to lay them down
Drop It Under the Tree: Spread it out evenly under the canopy line — not too thick, just enough to cover the soil without suffocating roots. Pull back any clipping from about 30cm from the main trunk – this will reduce any rotting to the main trunk from excess water.
What are the Exceptions??
There are only two main things that I avoid with this method and they are:
Thorny branches eg, Some Citrus. I have done this in the past and have copped many hard dried thorns in my hands and feet! So I don’t just straight Chop and Drop my Lime or Lemonade prunings anymore. These I will run through the mulcher or add to the compost to break down before they hit the garden.
The other thing I avoid is any fruit. Fruit left on the ground is a magnet for fruit flies, rats, and other unwanted pests, so this all goes into the compost to break down.
Other Ways to Boost Soil Naturally
Want to take it further? Here are a few simple additions that work really well with chop and drop:
Grow Your Own Mulch: Plants like pigeon pea, comfrey, and even moringa are amazing for regular chopping. They add biomass, nitrogen and help shade the soil. Read my top Edible Mulch Plants here.
Homemade fertiliser or Compost Teas: If your soil is depleted, a boost of compost tea can kick-start the microbial activity. Read more here.
Fungi are Friends: Let fungal networks grow by using a no-dig approach. Mycorrhizal fungi love working through mulch and help deliver nutrients to your plants.
Hugelkultur-Style Mounds: Got bigger branches? Stack them in a bed and layer soil and mulch over the top — perfect for a no-dig veggie patch or future fruit tree planting spot.
Level up with Chop and Drop Mulching
Next time you’re out pruning in the garden, try leaving those cuttings right where they fall. It’s such a simple habit, but it has a huge impact over time. You’ll build richer, more nutrient-dense soil, reduce garden waste, reduce watering, and your fruit trees will THRIVE!
Have you tried chop and drop in your garden yet? Let me know how it’s working for you — and if you’re curious about more ways to grow healthy, productive trees, make sure you check out my next post on GROWING YOUR OWN EDIBLE MULCH PLANTS
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Creating a mini wildlife pond is one of the best ways to attract beneficial insects, frogs, and birds to your garden while adding a beautiful, natural water feature. I built my own mini pond 1.5 years ago, and over time, I’ve observed how it has evolved, what worked well, and what I would do differently.
When I decided to add a wildlife pond to my garden, I knew it would be fun to watch it develop, but it has really blown all expectations.
In this post, I want to give a full update on the mini wildlife pond and share everything I have learnt so far. Including plants, keeping the pond clean, fish, tadpoles, and frogs. What has worked, what hasn’t, and even a few things that were a little shocking…
If you have been thinking about creating a wildlife pond in your garden, this post will be perfect for you.
Mini Wildlife Pond update – click to watch or continue reading
Why Build a Mini Wildlife Pond?
A small pond can provide a water source for wildlife, improve biodiversity, and even help control pests naturally. Whether you have a large garden or a small space, a mini pond can make a big impact. The wildlife pond has become the heart of my gardens, with bees, lizards, flies, and wasps all frequenting the post daily. It also provides so much joy as it is located outside my office window. It has been my favorite addition to the garden so far!
Choosing the Location – I picked a location that gets morning sunlight to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. It is outside my office window to be able to enjoy it. It is in my front yard, away from my dog, who would happily use it as his own personal pool. It is also located in an existing garden bed to act as a wildlife corridor to give more protection and access without the wildlife being out in the open to predators. It is important to have a water source nearby to fill up your pond when it gets low.
Selecting a Pond Liner – I used a preformed pond 1m x 1m and about 30cm deep. I found this secondhand off marketplace for free! I love how quick and easy it was to install. Just dig a hole the right size and slot it in.
Filling up the Pond – I filled up the pond using my hose and scheme water. Rainwater would be ideal, but we don’t get a lot of rain here in Perth, Australia.. After filling up the pond, I let it sit for a few weeks before adding any fish. This allowed it time to off gas any chlorine. Before I filled the pond, I pulled back some of the soil around the sides of the pond then, as it started filling up, I pushed the soil back against the edges. This helped keep the edges straight.
Adding Plants and Natural Elements – Firstly, I added rocks around the edge of the pond and then found a stick to go over the middle of the pond. I added old bricks in the pond to act as plant stands to raise potted plants up so they were not completely submerged in the water. The plants I added to the pond were: Lebanese Cress, Chocolate Mint, Fairy Lights, Blue Grass, Gotu Kola, and Water Ribbons. I then added more herbs and edible flowers around the garden bed surrounding the pond. Adding different heights and textures will attract a wider variety of wildlife.
Introducing Water & Wildlife – Over time, the pond will naturally attract insects, birds, and frogs. I did add two types of fish ~ Gold White Cloud Mountain Minnows and West Australian Pygmy Perch Fish. The Perch sadly did not make it with sudden and dramatic spikes and dips in temperature during the first few months. The minnows have thrived and are very hardy and self-sufficient. They also had babies, and my original x3 fish turned into x12! Be selective of what fish to introduce, as Goldfish will eat frogs eggs, so they not a good option if you are hoping for frogs.
Click below to watch my Pond build step by step (or read here)
1.5-Year Update: What I’ve Learned so far
Algae thrives in Sunlight
Algae started to become an issue when the pond heated up in the sun, but adding more floating plants like water lilies helped provide shade and balance the ecosystem. I would go out every few weeks and scoop up any excess algae and place it in the garden for fertiliser. Once the Tadpoles arrived, they ate all the pond algae and kept the pond sparkling clean!
Wildlife Came Quicker Than Expected
Within weeks, I noticed dragonflies, bees, and lizards visiting the pond, showing how effective even a small wildlife pond can be.
Some Plants Will Leave the Pond…
Some plants are vigorous growers and will thrive both in and out of the pond. The Chocolate mint and Gotu Kola were the first to attach themselves to the garden bed and start growing. If you have a small pond it could be a good idea to keep these pruned back. In a larger pond, you could place them away from the edges to keep them contained.
Topping Up Water Is Necessary
In hot weather, water levels dropped as I expected. Using rainwater instead of tap water would be ideal, but I only have a hose with tap water nearby. I topped up my pond in small amounts often to keep the balance right. Having more plants shading the pond helped keep the water from heating up.
Nature does Nature
I was quite shocked to learn that when Tadpoles are starting to transition into frogs and just have a tail left, they can eat other small tadpoles. This was not a pleasant thing to see but I try to just let nature do nature.
Tips for a Healthy Mini Wildlife Pond
Use a mix of submerged, floating, and marginal plants to support biodiversity.
Be selective of what fish you introduce if you want to attract frogs and insects.
Provide shallow edges for easy access to small creatures.
Regularly remove excess leaves and algae to maintain water clarity.
Incorporate different textures of leaves and heights to attract a diverse range of wildlife
Small solar fountains work great in direct sunlight (no clouds); otherwise, opt for a powered one. Having a wide range of plant roots in the pond helps to keep it filtered and clean without a filter or fountain.
Mini Wildlife Pond Success!
Building a mini wildlife pond has been one of the most rewarding additions to my garden. Watching wildlife thrive in a space I created has been a joy, and I’ve learned so much about maintaining a natural pond. If you’re thinking of adding one to your garden, go for it!
Have you built a wildlife pond? Share your experiences in the comments below!
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Ladybugs (also called ladybirds) are incredible beneficial insects that play a vital role in maintaining a healthy home garden. If you’re struggling with aphids or simply want to encourage more biodiversity in your garden, learning how to attract ladybugs to your garden is a simple and natural solution.
By growing the right plants and providing a welcoming habitat, you can establish a thriving ladybug population that helps keep pests in check. These tiny predators are natural pest controllers, feeding on aphids, mites, and other small sap-sucking insects that can damage your plants. In fact, a single ladybug can consume 20-50 aphids per day!
Want to know the difference between Red and Yellow Ladybugs? Keep reading below 👇
How to Attract Ladybugs to the Garden
Ladybugs are particularly drawn to dense clusters of small flowers that provide nectar and pollen. Many of their favorite plants are common herbs and flowering perennials that also benefit your garden in other ways.
Best Plants for Attracting Ladybugs
Planting these flowers and herbs will help attract and sustain ladybugs in your garden:
Dill – Produces umbrella-like clusters of flowers that ladybugs love.
Fennel – A great pollen source that doubles as a kitchen herb.
Sweet Alyssum – Tiny white and purple flowers provide a consistent nectar supply.
Laceflower (Ammi majus) – A close relative of Queen Anne’s Lace that attracts pollinators and predatory insects.
Yarrow – Its flat flower heads offer an easy landing spot for ladybugs.
Calendula – Bright and vibrant, calendula attracts ladybugs while repelling harmful pests.
Parsley – If allowed to flower, parsley is a great nectar source for beneficial insects.
Cosmos – An easy-to-grow flower that ladybugs love.
Marigold – Helps repel aphids and attracts ladybugs as a bonus!
Dandelion – Often considered a weed, but a valuable source of early-season pollen.
Mint – The flowers attract ladybugs while the leaves help deter unwanted pests.
Thyme – A fragrant herb that doubles as a ladybug-friendly plant.
Chives – The purple blooms attract beneficial insects and can be a great companion plant.
Celery – Letting celery flower will draw in ladybugs and pollinators.
Cilantro/ Coriander – A great pollen source
By letting herbs and edible flowering plants go to seed, you not only attract ladybugs but also create a self-sustaining garden where herbs regrow naturally.
How to Keep Ladybugs in Your Garden
Attracting ladybugs is just the first step. To keep ladybugs in your garden, you need to provide food, water, and shelter.
1. Provide a Steady Food Source
While ladybugs love flowers for their nectar, their main diet consists of aphids, scale insects, and other pests. Avoid using chemical pesticides that could eliminate their food supply and harm these beneficial bugs.
2. Create Shelter & Hiding Spots
Ladybugs need safe places to hide from predators and extreme weather. You can encourage them to stay by:
Leaving small piles of leaves or straw in the garden.
Allowing some ground cover plants like clover or creeping thyme to spread.
Providing ladybug houses or stacking small twigs and bark in a quiet corner of the garden.
3. Provide a Water Source
Ladybugs need moisture, but they can easily drown in deep water. Create a safe water source by:
Place shallow dishes of water with small stones for them to land on.
Mist plants with water to create dew-like droplets for them to drink.
4. Avoid Chemical Pesticides
Pesticides and insecticides don’t just kill harmful pests—they also harm ladybugs and other beneficial insects. Instead, try natural pest control methods like companion planting, blasting with the hose, or handpicking aphids to keep your garden ecosystem balanced. This is more for over-populations because without aphids or food sources, your natural predators won’t come.
Ladybug Colors & What They Mean in the Garden?
Ladybugs (or ladybirds) come in a variety of colors and patterns, each with unique characteristics. While all ladybugs play a role in garden ecosystems, some are natural pest controllers, while others feed on fungus or even plants. Understanding their differences can help you make the most of these beneficial insects in your garden.
Red, Orange, and Yellow Ladybugs: What’s the Difference?
1. Red Ladybugs (Best for Pest Control)
Example Species: Seven-Spotted Ladybug (Coccinella septempunctata), Asian Lady Beetle (Harmonia axyridis)
Spots: Usually 2–10 black spots
Meaning: Red ladybugs are often the most toxic to predators, signaling their role as top aphid predators.
Diet: Feeds primarily on aphids, scale insects, and other soft-bodied pests.
Garden Role:Highly beneficial—these ladybugs are the best natural pest control for your edible garden.
Meaning: Slightly less toxic than red ladybugs, but still a deterrent to predators.
Diet: Some species eat aphids, while others prefer fungi, mildew, or nectar.
Garden Role: Still beneficial, but some species may not be as efficient in pest control as red ladybugs.
3. Yellow Ladybugs (Fungus Eaters, Not Aphid Hunters)
Example Species: 22-Spotted Ladybug (Psyllobora vigintiduopunctata)
Spots: Bright yellow body with 22 black spots
Meaning: Less toxic and not a primary predator of garden pests.
Diet: Feeds on fungus and mildew, rather than insects.
Garden Role: Helpful for controlling powdery mildew, but not effective against aphids.
The 28-Spotted Potato Ladybird (A Garden Pest!)
🚨 Not All Ladybugs Are Beneficial!
Scientific Name:Epilachna vigintioctopunctata
Color:Bright orange with 28 black spots
Diet: Unlike beneficial ladybugs, this species feeds on plants, particularly potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplants.
Garden Role:Harmful to crops—this ladybug is a known pest that chews holes in leaves, leading to plant damage.
Although this type of ladybug can eat your crops, I have not found it makes much of a difference. I plant extra and never seem to have overpopulation in my garden. The more diversity you have, the more there is balance in the ecosystem.
How to Manage 28-Spotted Potato Ladybirds:
Handpick them off plants when spotted.
Encourage natural predators like birds or beneficial insects.
Use row covers to protect vulnerable crops.
What to Remember
Encouraging ladybugs in your garden is one of the easiest and most effective ways to manage pests naturally. By planting ladybug-friendly flowers and herbs, providing shelter and water, and avoiding harmful chemicals, you can create an environment where these tiny helpers thrive.
If you’ve been wondering how to attract ladybugs to your garden, start by adding some of their favorite plants and watch as nature takes care of the rest! I have found that letting herbs go to seed has been the most effective method for bringing a large, diverse range of insects to the garden. Plus, then my weeds suddenly become parsley in the cracks of the pavers 😂
Have you noticed more ladybugs in your garden after planting certain flowers? Let me know in the comments!
From invasive root systems to aggressive self-seeding, I will share why urban gardeners should Avoid Planting these in the Ground. These 15 Fruit Trees & Edible Plants can take over your garden, damage nearby structures, or require constant maintenance. Planting fruit trees and edible plants in the ground might seem like the best way to grow them, but some plants can quickly become a headache in urban gardens!
If you have limited space or an urban garden, this will be important info to know BEFORE you plant these in the ground! In this post, I’ll explain why these plants are better suited for containers, raised beds, or controlled areas, helping you avoid common gardening mistakes.
Fig Trees
Figs are delicious and easy to grow, but their strong root systems can cause major problems. They have the potential to damage pavers, concrete, and even underground drains as they search for water. If planted in raised beds, they can take over the space, outcompeting other plants.
A better option? Grow figs in a pot. This allows them to focus on fruit production rather than excessive growth. You may find they fruit quicker and more prolifically in a pot when they focus more on fruit production than on establishing their size. If you have plenty of space, you can plant them in the ground—just keep them away from structures, driveways, and pipes.
Kumquat Trees
Kumquats are a fun citrus tree, but for many gardeners, they end up being more ornamental than practical. While they produce masses of fruit, the small, tart fruits are best suited for jams, chutneys, or cocktails—not for everyday snacking.
A small potted tree will be much easier to manage and will give you great harvests to experiment with. Rather than a full-sized tree overloaded with fruit that becomes a chore to harvest.
Blackberry
Blackberries are known for their invasive growth habits. They send suckers underground, making them hard to contain, and if their stems bend over and touch the ground, they root and spread even further.
To keep them under control, grow blackberries in containers or install a deep garden edge to prevent runners from escaping. Otherwise, they can quickly take over your garden or spread into neighboring gardens or properties.
Blueberry
Blueberries thrive in acidic soil, which can be challenging to maintain in the ground. Without consistent soil pH, they may struggle to produce fruit.
Growing blueberries in pots allows you to control soil acidity, ensuring healthier plants and bigger harvests. Plus, container-grown blueberries take up less space and can be moved easily.
Grafted Passionfruit
Grafted passionfruit vines are notorious for causing problems in the garden, especially for beginner gardeners. The rootstock can take over, killing off the main plant and leaving behind a non-fruiting, invasive vine. The suckers can spread over 50 meters, making them extremely difficult to remove once established.
For a hassle-free option, grow non-grafted passionfruit vines to avoid rootstock takeover.
Mint
Mint is one of the worst plants for spreading aggressively. It sends out underground runners that allow it to jump containment and take over nearby garden beds. Even in pots, it can escape through drainage holes and establish itself in the soil.
Since a single plant can produce more than enough for home use, keep mint contained in a pot or raised bed to prevent it from becoming invasive.
Elderberry
Elderberry bushes are great for their medicinal berries and flowers, but they send out suckers that make them difficult to control. Even if you try to remove them, they can keep coming back for years.
If you’re growing elderberries in a small space, consider pots or designated garden areas to manage their spread.
Goji Berry
Goji berries grow fast and aggressively, spreading through self-seeding and suckering. While they are packed with nutrients, they can quickly take over garden beds if not regularly pruned.
For better control, grow goji berries in a pot to keep them manageable.
Jerusalem Artichoke (Sunchoke)
Jerusalem artichokes send out underground tubers that spread rapidly and uncontrollably. Once established, they are nearly impossible to remove.
To prevent them from taking over, grow sunchokes in large containers or contained garden beds where they can be harvested easily.
Yarrow
Yarrow is a fantastic medicinal herb. It also attracts a lot of beneficial insects and pollinators to the garden. However, it has an aggressive spreading growth habit in the garden. It spreads throughrunners under theground that can invade neighboring properties and garden beds. Yarrow can be hard to get rid of once a patch is established.
If you want to grow Yarrow in an urban garden, try containers or root barriers to keep it in check.
Malabar Spinach
This fast-growing vine can take over trellises and nearby plants. It also self-seeds aggressively, meaning it will pop up all over your garden. It is also more ornamental than edible so you don’t need to have it regrowing everywhere.
For better management, grow it in containers or a dedicated trellis space.
Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is one of my FAVOURITE herbs. It is part of the mint family and spreads rapidly through self-seeding. Once established, it can take over veggie patches.
Keep it pruned to stop flowering and contained by growing it in pots rather than directly in the ground.
Choko (Chayote Vine)
Chayote vines are a great perennial vine but do grow extremely fast, climbing over fences, trees, and garden beds. They also regrow from tuberous roots, making them hard to remove once established.
To prevent it from taking over, grow choko in containers or on a dedicated trellis.
Loquat
Loquats are delicious, but birds spread their seeds, causing them to self-sow aggressively. These trees also grow large, shading out other plants and taking up valuable space.
If you plant a loquat tree, be prepared for regular pruning and fruit netting.
Nasturtium
While nasturtiums are great companion plants, they self-seed aggressively and can quickly take over garden beds. In warm climates, they may become invasive.
To keep them in check, grow nasturtiums in pots or confined spaces.
Where & How to Plant Instead:
1. Large Pots & Containers 🪴
Great for invasive trees like figs, bamboo, or mulberries.
Controls root spread and makes maintenance easier.
Use at least a 50L (13-gallon) pot with good drainage.
2. Raised Garden Beds 🌱
Ideal for shallow-rooted plants that need better soil structure.
Prevents aggressive roots from spreading into pathways or damaging pipes.
Use deep beds (40cm/16” or more) for trees like bananas or certain berry bushes.
3. Root Barrier Systems 🚧
Works well for trees with aggressive or spreading roots (e.g., willows, mulberries).
Install a thick plastic or metal barrier at least 60cm (24”) deep around the root zone.
4. Espalier Against a Fence or Trellis 🌿
Perfect for space-saving and controlling growth (e.g., citrus, apples, pears).
Improves air circulation and prevents disease.
Train branches horizontally along wires or a fence.
5. Food Forest or Dedicated Zone 🌳
Some trees, like guavas or loquats, spread but work well in food forests.
Plant in designated areas where spreading isn’t an issue.
Use companion planting to balance growth and improve soil health.
6. Grow Bags or Air-Pruning Pots 🛍️
Good for trees like figs or pomegranates that do well in restricted root spaces.
Promotes healthy root structure and prevents circling roots.
Use 40L+ fabric pots for long-term growth.
Planting in the ground
While these plants can all be great additions to your garden, planting them directly in the ground can lead to maintenance headaches and invasive growth. By growing them in containers or designated areas, you can still enjoy their benefits without the stress of keeping them under control.
Have you had trouble with any of these plants? Leave a comment below and share your experience! Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channelfor more gardening tips. 🌱
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Gardening in sandy soil can be a challenge, especially in hot, dry climates. Sandy soil drains quickly, lacks nutrients, and struggles to retain moisture. However, by choosing the right plants, you can naturally improve soil health while also growing food. In this post, I’ll share five of the best plants to grow for mulch and improve sandy soil, all of which are fast-growing, drought-tolerant, and multi-functional. These plants help build organic matter, retain moisture, and create a thriving ecosystem in your garden.
Pigeon pea is a nitrogen-fixing shrub that grows quickly and thrives in poor soil conditions. This makes it an excellent pioneer plant for mulching to improve sandy soil and support other plants in your garden.
Benefits of Pigeon Pea:
Fixes nitrogen, enriching the soil naturally
Produces edible, protein-rich peas
Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects
Provides dappled shade for smaller plants
Offers abundant biomass for mulch and soil improvement
Works as a windbreak and shelter for small birds and insects
Pigeon pea is a short-lived perennial (4-5 years) and can be used to establish a garden while building soil fertility.
Feijoa, also known as pineapple guava, is a hardy shrub that thrives in drought-prone and sandy soil conditions.
Benefits of Feijoa:
Tolerates drought and poor soil
Produces delicious, fragrant fruit
Provides dense foliage for wind protection
Low-maintenance and easy to grow
Can be used as a hedging plant to protect other crops
Feijoa is an excellent addition to sandy-soil gardens, offering both food and improved soil structure. They grow so much each year, which provides a consistent supply of green material to mulch. This is currently my top producer for mulch in the garden, and I use a mini mulcher with the Ecoflowbattery pack to give me cordless solar power anywhere in the garden.
Cassava (Manihot esculenta)
Cassava is a tough, resilient root crop that thrives in hot, dry climates and nutrient-poor soil.
Benefits of Cassava:
Grows well in sandy, well-draining soil
Produces large, starchy tubers that can be boiled, fried, or made into flour
Fast-growing, reaching 2-3m tall in one season
Drought-tolerant once established
Leaves are edible when cooked
Chop-and-drop plant for mulch and soil improvement
Helps prevent soil erosion with its strong root system
Cassava is an excellent survival crop that helps build soil health and provides a reliable food source.
Mulching for the win!
If you’re gardening in sandy soil, these five plants to grow for mulch will help improve organic matter, retain moisture, and build long-term soil fertility. By growing multi-functional, fast-growing plants, you can create a thriving, resilient garden—even in harsh conditions.
Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more gardening tips! 🌱
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Are you growing any of these plants? Let me know in the comments! And if you found this helpful, share it with fellow gardeners.
Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) is a fast-growing, nitrogen-fixing shrub that thrives in poor soil conditions while providing multiple benefits to the garden. Whether you’re looking for a hardy pioneer plant, a nutritious food source, or an effective soil builder, pigeon pea is a must-have in any sustainable garden or food forest.
Are you struggling with poor sandy soil and crispy plants from not enough summer shade? Then keep reading because this easy-to-grow edible plant could be the answer!
Benefits of Growing Pigeon Pea in a Permaculture Garden
1. Pigeon Pea Improves Soil Health
Pigeon pea is an excellent nitrogen fixer, meaning it naturally enriches the soil by pulling nitrogen from the air and making it available to other plants. This is especially valuable in poor, sandy soils where organic matter is often lacking. Additionally, its deep taproot helps break up compacted soil, improving aeration and water retention. It is a great plant to grow in newly established gardens where soil quality is low.
2. Creates Dappled Shade
This shrub grows quickly and provides light, dappled shade that protects lower-growing plants from harsh sun exposure. This makes it an excellent companion plant for young fruit trees and vegetable crops that benefit from reduced heat stress.
3. Attracts Beneficial Insects & Pollinators
The bright yellow flowers of pigeon pea are highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These pollinators help increase biodiversity in your garden and improve the yield of surrounding fruiting plants.
4. Nutritious & Versatile Edible Crop
Pigeon peas are a rich source of protein, carbohydrates, and fiber, making them a valuable addition to a self-sufficient diet. They can be eaten in various ways:
Fresh in salads
Steamed like edamame
Cooked in stews and curries
Made into burger patties
Dried and stored for long-term use
Not only are pigeon peas beneficial for human consumption, but they also make excellent high-protein animal feed.
5. Provides Abundant Biomass & Mulch
Pigeon pea produces a significant amount of organic material that can be cut back and used as mulch. This helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and build healthy soil over time. Regular pruning encourages new growth and keeps the plant productive.
6. Windbreak & Habitat for Wildlife
This shrub can be grown as a hedge to provide wind protection for more delicate plants. It also creates shelter for small birds and insects, enhancing the overall ecosystem of your garden.
7. Pioneer Plant for New Gardens
Pigeon pea is an ideal “pioneer” species for establishing new gardens. This means it helps pave the way for establishing more valuable long-term crops. It offers:
Fast-growing shade
Nutrient-rich mulch
Green material for composting
Pollinator attraction
Wind protection
Thrives in poor soil
Drought tolerant
It is a short-lived perennial, typically lasting 4-5 years, making it perfect for supporting other plants in the early stages of a food forest or permaculture system. As your garden grows and your main fruit tree crops start to get established you can prune back and remove the Pigeon Pea to make room. With so much seed available you will be able to re-grow more plants in other areas of the garden.
How to Grow Pigeon Pea
Pigeon PeaPlanting & Soil Requirements
Thrives in well-draining soil, including poor, sandy soil
Pigeon Pea prefers full sun but can grow in semi-shade positions
Drought-tolerant once established
Grows well from seed planted directly in the ground
Doesn’t like frosts, but can be grown as an annual crop in cooler climates
Doesn’t like wet feet as this can cause the roots to rot. Plant on mounded soil to help improve drainage in wet areas.
Maintenance & Care
Minimal care is required once established
Benefits from regular pruning to encourage bushy growth and biomass production. It also helps with the ease of harvesting peas at a more manageable height.
Pigeon Pea can be interplanted with fruit trees, vegetables, or other nitrogen-demanding plants
Harvesting & Usage
Harvest fresh peas when pods are still green
Leave pods to dry on the plant for long-term storage of dried peas
Regular pruning ensures continuous production and plant health
Pigeon Pea Permaculture
This pioneer plant is an invaluable addition to any permaculture garden, offering multiple benefits such as soil improvement, food production, pollinator support, and natural wind protection. Whether you’re starting a new garden or enhancing an existing one, this resilient shrub will help create a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem.
Start growing Pigeon Pea today and enjoy its many rewards in your sustainable garden!
Rich, creamy, and dairy-free decadence straight from the garden. If you’ve ever wondered what to do with an abundance of ripe avocados, this Avocado Chocolate Tart is the answer. It’s rich, silky, and deeply chocolatey—yet made with simple, wholesome ingredients. Best of all, it’s quick to prepare, doesn’t require any complicated steps, and feels like something straight out of a fancy café.
This is one of my go-to dessert creations whenever avocados are in season. The creamy avocado filling pairs beautifully with a nutty, chocolate-infused base, while the candied mint leaves and fresh strawberries add balance, brightness, and a little garden-to-plate magic.
Whether you’re looking for a showstopper dessert for guests or just want something rich and indulgent for yourself, this tart is a winner.
Why Avocados Make the Perfect Dessert
What makes this tart extra special is the use of avocados, not just as a healthy substitute, but as a creamy, indulgent base that rivals any traditional custard or ganache. Avocados are packed with healthy fats, fiber, and essential nutrients. The natural creaminess of ripe avocados blends beautifully with dark chocolate, creating a smooth, luscious texture without the need for cream or butter. It’s a great way to sneak more whole foods into your diet while still treating yourself. Plus, using seasonal produce like homegrown avocados makes this dessert even more rewarding, connecting what’s on your plate to what’s growing in your garden.
Avocado Chocolate Tart with Candied Mint Leaves
Prep Time: 6 hours
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Additional Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 6 hours
Ingredients
Chocolate base
2 1/2 cups (225g) walnuts (or any nut/seed)
1 1/2 cups pitted dates soaked*
Pinch salt
3 TBSP Cocoa powder
Filling
3 ripe Avocados
4 tsp maple syrup or brown sugar
120grams dark melting chocolate
pinch salt
1/4 cup oat milk (or milk of choice)
Optional strawberries to garnish
Candied Mint Leaves
10 + Mint leaves
1 Egg White or Aquafaba (chickpea water)
Caster sugar to sprinkle
Instructions
MINT LEAVES - Prepare the candied mint leaves ahead of baking for at least 6 hours (ideally the night before).
Whisk egg white until frothy.
Prepare a tray with baking paper. Lightly coat the mint leaves in egg white by dipping them in and wiping off excess on the edge of the bowl.
Sprinkle both sides with sugar and place on the baking paper tray.
Allow to rest at room temperature for 6 hours + or overnight. I stored them in my dehydrator (switched off) to keep any bugs off. Store in an airtight container and use within a day or two.
BASE:Soak the dates in a bowl with hot water for 1 hour prior to starting.
Blitz the nuts in a food processor or similar until a fine crumble.
Add in drained dates, salt, and cocoa, and blitz to combine. The mix should be moist enough to hold shape in your hands and not fall apart.
Press base mix into a greased 25cm tart pan.
Bake at 160 degrees for 15 minutes or until edges start to brown.
Remove and allow to cool. Remove from the tray when half cooled and place on the serving dish.
FILLING - Scoop avocado flesh out into a mixer and add the maple syrup, salt, and milk. Blitz to combine and there are no chunks of avocado left.
Melt chocolate over a double boiler (place a saucepan of water on the stove and add the chocolate to a second pot sitting on top).
Pour melted chocolate into the avocado mix and continue to mix until combined.
Spread filling into the cooled base and top with fresh strawberries, candied mint leaves, and edible flowers.
Finishing Touches
Top your avocado chocolate tart with sliced fresh strawberries, candied mint leaves, and a few edible flowers if you have them. The combination of textures and colours not only makes this tart visually stunning, but also elevates the flavours to something truly special.
Celebration of Seasonal Abundance
This avocado chocolate tart is a celebration of seasonal abundance and simple ingredients. It’s a beautiful example of how your garden can inspire decadent, nutritious treats that impress without fuss. Whether you’re growing avocados or simply want to try a plant-powered dessert, give this recipe a go.
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Add a little bit of flair to your desserts, baked treats, or cocktails with these sparkly, sweet candied mint leaves. They’re beautiful, easy to make, and add a delicate crunch with a refreshing minty finish. Perfect for when you want something a little special to top a cake, tart, pavlova, or even a fancy iced drink.
Mint on its own can sometimes be a little overpowering, but candying softens that intense bite while preserving all the aromatic freshness. The sugar balances the strength of the mint, leaving you with a light, sweet leaf that melts in your mouth and looks stunning as a garnish.
How to Make Candied Mint Leaves
All you need are a few fresh mint leaves, some egg white (or aquafaba for a vegan version), and a sprinkle of caster sugar. Simply coat each leaf in a bit of frothy egg white, dust with sugar on both sides, and let them dry for several hours until crisp. I like to leave mine on baking paper in a switched-off dehydrator or a warm, dry spot in the kitchen. They’re best made the night before and can be stored in an airtight container for a day or two.
Candied mint leaves are a great way to use up any extra mint growing in the garden, especially when it starts to take over. You can also try this method with other edible leaves like lemon balm or even tiny herb leaves for a twist.
They’re not just decorative—they’re delicious! Whether you’re topping an avocado chocolate tart, dressing up a fruit salad, or adding charm to a summer cocktail, these little leaves add a handmade, whimsical touch that’s sure to impress.
Candied Mint Leaves
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 6 hours
Total Time: 6 hours10 minutes
Sweet and minty these candied mint leaves are a delicious addition to decorate baking or cocktails.
Ingredients
10 + Mint leaves*
1 Egg White or Aquafaba (chickpea water)
Caster Sugar
Instructions
Whisk egg white until frothy.
Prepare a tray with baking paper.
Lightly coat the mint leaves in egg white by dipping them in and wiping off excess on the edge of the bowl.
Sprinkle both sides with sugar and place on the baking paper tray.
Allow to rest at room temperature for 6 hours + or overnight. I stored them in my dehydrator (switched off) to keep any bugs off.
Store in an airtight container and use within a day or two.
Notes
* Try with edible flowers or other herbs such as pineapple sage
Garden to Plate Magic
Candied mint leaves are a simple yet elegant way to elevate your homemade treats. With just a few ingredients and a bit of drying time, you can transform humble garden mint into a beautiful garnish that looks impressive and tastes delicious. Whether you’re making them for a special occasion or just to enjoy some creative time in the kitchen, they’re a fun way to celebrate what’s growing in your garden.
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Learn how to grow Avocado (Persea americana) at home and what to make with your abundant avocado crops! Avocado is a popular fruit that can be a little tricky to grow. Choosing the right variety for your climate and getting some key care points right should have you picking homegrown avocados for years to come!
Avocados can be used as evergreen shade trees or grown in pots for urban areas. Avocado trees can reach heights of 12+ meters if they are not pruned. Smaller dwarf trees will reach maximum heights of around 4 meters, but can also be pruned to keep them smaller.
Avocados are best grown from grafted trees. Growing an Avocado from seed can take anywhere from 4 to 13 years or longer to get fruit. Even then, you have no idea what the fruit will be like, as it will not be identical to the plant the seed came from. Grafted trees have mature fruiting stems grafted onto allow the tree to bear fruit within a year or two.
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Mounded above ground in clay soil.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.Can benefit from afternoon shade.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well-mulched.Protect from wind and hot afternoon sun when young.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and mulch.
PESTS
Excess water and fungal diseases are the most common cause. Rats may eat the fruit.
HARVEST
Fruit takes about 1 year on the tree to ripen. Skin goes dull and some may drop from the tree.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but may take 10+ years to fruit. Mature wood grafted from fruiting-age trees is best.
Why Grow Your Own Avocado?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Avocados.
Evergreen shade-giving tree
Perennial crops
It can be expensive to buy!
Can be used in sweet and savoury dishes
Prolific producer
Long harvests
High in vitamin E and folate
High in fibre
Substitute for butter
Popular Avocado Varieties to Grow
Avocados come in A and B varieties. Each type flowers as male and female at different times of the day. Having both an A and a B-type Avocado will mean you will get more avocados due to an increase in pollination. Most avocados will be self-fertile, but having a second will increase the amount you get. Dwarf or semi-dwarf avocados will grow to be smaller trees, but unlike other swarf fruit trees, they will still be up to 4m high. Keeping them pruned can maintain their size.
Type (A) Varieties
Hass – Popular small dark-skinned avocado. Most commonly found in stores due to its tough skin for transport. Small fruit, a great producer.
Reed – Large green round fruit 200-800 grams. Mild and buttery flavour. The tree tends to grow upright rather than outwards.
Choquette – Large green round fruit weighing over 1kg! Creamy, rich flesh. A cross between a Guatemalan and a West Indian type.
Semi Dwarf
Lamb Hass – Large dark-skinned avocado. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Late-season fruits.
Pinkerton – Medium-sized green-skinned fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. High oil content.
Wurtz – Medium-sized green pear-shaped fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Weeping branches that hang downward.
Type (B) Varieties
Shepard – Popular commercial variety. Green skin and yellow firm flesh. Smaller tree size 6-8 metres.
Bacon – Most cold-tolerant variety (may survive -5 degrees). Large pear-shaped fruit with green skin.
Fuerte – Small – medium-sized green fruit. Thin skin and buttery flesh. Produces both normal-sized and mini seedless avocados called “cukes”. Crops more biannually (every second season). Vigorous spreading tree.
Zutano – Pear-shaped fruit with green glossy skin. Low oil content and can be quite watery.
Sharwill – Medium-sized oval fruit with green skin. Rich flavour and small seeds. Frost sensitive.
Linda – Large fruit with dark purple skin. Fruits from 400-1100g each. Thick skin that is easy to peel.
TOP TIPS TO GROW AVOCADO
Choose a sunny location
Shelter from the wind or able to create shelter
Prepare the soil with plenty of compost
Free draining is key!
Avocados hate clay soils – mound up above the ground rather than planting down in a hole
Do not disturb roots when removing from the pot!
Protect from the hot afternoon sun
Keep grass and weeds away from the base
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAvocados
Avocados don’t like the cold or the extreme heat, so avoid planting them in winter or summer. Choose a day when the weather will be mild for a few consecutive days.
How to Grow an Avocado
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be protected from winds (shade cloth can help)
Dig a hole and prepare the soil with compost. Mix compost and sandy soil together. For clay soils, backfill with compost and sandy soil, and create a mound above the ground.
Carefully remove the Avocado carefully by cutting the bag or gently easing it from the pot. Try not to disturb roots when possible.
Gently push soil against the root ball and push down with your hands to remove air pockets.
Add a stake to help secure the tree, but do not push it through the root ball.
Add mulch as wide as you can approx 1m but pull back from the trunk so it does not touch (this can cause collar rot)
Add a shelter of shade cloth to the side that gets wind and afternoon hot sun.
Paint any exposed stems with water-based white paint (nontoxic) at a ratio of about 50% paint and 50% water. This acts as sunscreen, which is important for Perth summers!
Care/ Maintenance
Avocados like plenty of food, regular top-ups with compost and mulch are important. The biggest issue with Avocados is too much water, sun or wind.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter, before spring, and end of summer.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer. Push your finger into the soil to the second knuckle; if it comes out dry, water well. If the soil on your finger sticks and is mois,t leave it be.
Harvesting
Avocados, like many fruit trees, should be prevented from fruiting for the first 1-3 years. Wait until the flowers sprout on long stems, then remove them. Once you start letting your Avocado fruit, it will take 1 year from when the fruit sets until it is ready to harvest. Some Avocados stay green when they are ready and ripen off the tree, so here are a few ways to tell if they are ready to pick.
Skin turns from glossy to dull
Stem lightens
It’s within the varieties’ “mature fruit months” (research for your variety and area)
Pick one and let it ripen on the bench for a week or two. If it is delicious and buttery, you can harvest more. If it shrivels and goes black, it is not ready and try again in 2-3 weeks.
Fruit starts falling on the ground.
Pruning
The Avocado tree can grow to be a huge 10 m+ tree if left unpruned. Once your tree reaches 2m or your desired height, you can start pruning it. Be selective and try to remove branches whilst still allowing shade to the other parts of the tree. Try not to remove the bottom “skirt branches” as these protect the stem from being burnt. If once you prune the tree, there are areas of stem exposed, paint with white water-based paint (50:50 water mixed) to add protection.
Pests / Disease
Avocados mainly succumb to bacterial diseases due to excess water. Don’t water the leaves when possible and allow good drainage for the roots.
Reproducing
Seeds from the Avocados can be grown and will produce a new variety. Seed-grown Avocados can take 10+ years to actually fruit, and you never know what the fruit will be like. The best way to reproduce is to grow an Avocado from seed and then graft onto it from a tree that is already fruiting and mature. But also, if you have the room, there is no reason not to try seed grown as you may end up with an exciting new variety.
Cooking and Using
Avocado is a powerhouse in the kitchen and can be used in a wide array of ways.
