Garden toast is something I created one day when I was scraping together something for lunch and all I had was a crust and some cottage cheese in the fridge. I didn’t have any avocado, eggs or anything special to have with it. So I went out into the garden and found some inspiration! I picked two small tomatoes, herbs and edible flowers. It looked like a mini garden on toast and now I can’t stop making these beautiful, tasty creations!
Here are the creations I have made so far..
Original Garden Toast
My first addition with the last piece of bread I had left! I had fun making this and it definitely tasted delicious! Ingredients: Rye Multigrain toast, Cottage Cheese, Fresh tomato, Parsley, Rosemary, Rosemary flowers, Zinnia Petals and Basil leaves.
Fairy Garden Toast
It’s amazing what a little bit of Beetroot juice can do! Natural colouring and plenty of beneficial nutrients with an array of micro herbs and greens. You may even be able to convince your kids to eat more greens with this Fairy Garden toast. Get them involved in the process by having a bowl each to go outside and collect herbs. Ingredients: White Multigrain Toast, Cottage Cheese mixed with beetroot juice or fresh grated Beetroot, Baby Nasturtium leaves, Parsley leaves, Basil leaves, Sweet Violet flowers, Rosemary Flowers, Baby Pink chard leaves, Pink Zinnia Flower petals and Dill Flowers.
Jungle Garden Toast
Packed full of herbs and flavour! Ingredients: Country Grain Toast, Basil Pesto, Orange Nasturtium petals, Tiger Eye Viola Petals, Strawberry Flowers, Parsley leaves, Rosemary Flowers, Pea tendrils, Burgundy Marigold Petals and Purple basil leaves.
Summer Garden Toast
Summer on toast! Homegrown tomatoes are so sweet and delicious and tomato on toast is one of my favourite ways to eat them! Ingredients: Rye Multigrain toast, Red, yellow, orange cherry tomatoes, Purslane, Red basil leaves, Strawberry Flower, Sweet Violet Flower, Dill flowers, Rosemary Flowers, chopped Purple Kale, baby Nasturtium leaves and Fresh Chilli.
Botanical Garden Toast
Pest on toast is so delicious! I made extra pesto and if you follow me on Instagram you would have seen that I ate this for breakfast for an entire week! It was also so good with a poached egg on top. Ingredients: Sourdough toast, Basil pesto, Cottage Cheese, Chopped walnuts, Fresh Chilli, Basil Leaves, Fennel Flowers, Pink and White Dianthus, Baby Pumpkin Tendrils, Parsley Leaves and Strawberry Flowers.
Unicorn Garden Toast
My latest creation and maybe my favourite yet! Purple sweet potato spread is a vibe! Ingredients: Sourdough Toast, Mashed Purple Sweet Potato and Cottage Cheese, Overnight Pickled Red Cabbage and Red Onion (1/2 cup water, 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar, a teaspoon of sugar heated to dissolve. Pour cooled liquid over Cabbage and Onion), Purple Kale, Grilled Baby Eggplant, Purple Pansy, Multicoloured Dianthus, Rosemary Flowers and Red Basil.
Get Inspired by your Garden
There is always something in my garden to make a toast topping and I love how easy and creative it is! Each piece is so unique and full of fresh garden nutrients! Having these ideas tried and tested means I know I can always whip up something even when my fridge is looking very lean.
Get creative and inspired by your own garden. There is something so satisfying about being able to walk outside and make a meal from your own fresh, homegrown veggies. This is a great meal idea for beginner gardeners who don’t have many established edibles. Just look out for baby leaves and edible flowers (make sure you research and clearly identify they are edible). Baby leaves and flowers can add subtle flavours and turn any dish into a work of art!
Be sure to tag me on Instagram or Facebook so I can see your creations!
Holly 🌱
MY GARDENING ESSENTIALS // Fertiliser spray gun: https://bit.ly/366nL1t Retractable Hose: https://bit.ly/2TSC0Bo More gardening tools: https://bit.ly/32IQmbD
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my page so I can continue to provide you with free content!
There is no better time to start growing your own food than NOW. Creating your own food security and using your time to help create a greener world is win-win. I have always had the dream of growing my own food and living a more sustainable lifestyle and it is something that I have been continually building and working towards for years. I don’t want to be 100% self-sufficient because there are just some things I either won’t be able to grow or choose not to grow. But there are plenty of ways to supplement my homegrown food supply such as trading, swapping, and local farmers markets. I have put together (in no particular order) 18 simple ways you can start living a more self-sufficient lifestyle today.
1. Start a Herb Garden
No matter whether you have a big garden or live in a tiny apartment, growing herbs can be easy and takes up very little space. Grow in small pots, recycled containers, hanging planter,s or windowsill planters. If you like to use herbs it is a great first step towards self-sufficiency. And no, that does not mean buying those packed herb pots from the supermarket…. they are often grown hydroponically and then placed in the soil so they rarely survive long and don’t handle being planted out into real life. Get a packet of seeds and try growing your own 🙂
2. Start a Vegetable Patch
The best way to learn how to grow vegetables is to simply start trying! Start small with either a planter box or convert one small patch of your garden or even driveway into an edible vegetable patch. You can also start by simply integrating edibles into your established garden. Once you start growing some things you can start expanding bit by bit. Goodbye grass 🙂
3. Plant Fruit Trees
I love fruit trees because although they take a while to get going, once they do, they are abundant and don’t require as much care as vegetables. You can plant them in either a large pot or directly into the garden. I would recommend going to a local specialist fruit tree nursery so they can help you choose the best fruit tree for your location. Also, make sure you get something with fruit you actually enjoy! With the abundant produce you can then preserve, swap, and trade with others!
4. Grow Base Crops
I couldn’t think what else to call them but growing crops that will feed you for longer and create a good base to fill your pantry. Crops such as Pumpkins, Potatoes, Onions, Garlic, and Sweet potatoes will provide decent amounts of food that you can store and use throughout the year! A great base vegetable to feed a family.
5. Grow Soil
Composting is not only great for the fertility of your soil and the secret to AMAZING vegetables but also stops waste from going to landfill. There are a whole bunch of ways to do this depending on your living situation. You can make your own compost bin out of recycled wood, find a second-hand tumbler online or purchase one. You can also simply dig a hole in the garden and bury it (be careful of attracting pests though). There are also some new ways for people with no land to connect with others that do and give them your compost scraps. Either community gardens, local Facebook groups or now in Australia there is even an app! Sharewaste
6. Save Seeds
This is just as important as growing food and will be a huge step towards your self-sufficient journey. Saving seeds helps you maintain food security knowing that you have more healthy seeds to grow next year. Save seeds from your healthiest plants that thrive in your garden. Keep them in a dry dark place.
7. Grow Community
Get your friends involved! Take them over a basket of homegrown food or preserves. Once they see your delicious fresh food they may also get inspired! Help them out with seeds, and cuttings and surround yourself with like-minded people. Community gardens can be a great place to learn, get involved, and even seed/ produce swap. It can be an amazing network of knowledge, especially in relation to your local climate and growing conditions. There are also some great social media forums and groups that are great for finding answers to your questions and local knowledge.
8. Shop Local
Explore your local farmer’s markets! Grab a friend and go have a browse! They are usually on a Saturday or Sunday morning and I look forward to it every week. Although I love my local farmers market (Kalamunda) every few months I like to check out other farmers markets to mix things up and find new and interesting produce. Bulk food stores have been making a come back and I am sold! Lucky for me there is a fantastic Bulk Store ( Replenish Kalamunda) right by my local farmer’s markets. So I head there straight after I have picked up some fresh veggies. They may seem daunting at first but there are always plenty of signs explaining how to do it. I also love how each product clearly states where they have come from as I try to only choose Australian products.
9. Learn to Cook from Scratch
This is a big one! Learning to cook a wide range of meals from scratch using simple ingredients is key! I mean we can all make a butter chicken right…you just get the sauce and pour it in… Ditch the sauces from the supermarket and learn to make your own. I am constantly experimenting and expanding my knowledge so I can make a wide selection of meals from the produce I grow. Try to buy vegetables that are in season and fruits and vegetables that you are planning to grow. That way you can practice and become a pro at recipes for YOUR future harvests!
10. Grow Food From Scraps
Ok, this is one of my favourites! It is so quick and easy and a lot of fun! Plus you are getting the most out of your food. Buy one get multiple free!! Cut off the ends of your farmers market vegetables such as Spring Onion, Leek, Pineapple, Sweet Potato and regrow!
11. Forage and Trade
Keep an eye out on your walks and day trips for wild or excess food. So often there are olive trees, fruit, nuts or wild apple trees going to waste. Do your research and learn how to identify plants. That way you will know what you are looking at. It is also important to be careful if things have been sprayed by the council. I would be always cautious of things such as blackberries. You may even notice a neighbours tree loaded with fruit that is going to waste on the ground. Politely ask if you can have some in exchange for some preserves or baking you make with it. They will probably be happy for it to be used!
12. Repair and Upcycle
Get the most out of your things by fixing or updating them! Even if you don’t know how you may be able to pay someone a fraction of the cost to fix it rather than buying brand new. We often are so quick to throw out and buy new, we don’t even stop to consider if it can be fixed or repurposed. My hair straighteners and been fixed multiple times by electrician friends over the past 12 years and are still working amazingly! Recovering cushions, and couches, DIY, get creative, and even find a local seamstress if you don’t have access to a sewing machine.
13. Shop Second Hand
I try my best to not buy new and it is something I am continuing to work on. Most items you want can be found on Facebook market place, Gumtree (Trademe, Craigslist, etc). You can usually pick up a bargain and keep things in the loop rather than consuming more new things. You can even post in your local community groups and borrow or buy. Especially with things like appliances as many people often have them sitting in the cupboard collecting dust…Pasta maker, I’m talking about you 🙂
14. Backyard Chickens
Chickens make an excellent addition to sustainable living. They provide eggs, eat leftover scraps, produce manure for fertilising your garden, and can they also be incorporated into an integrated pest management system to help you keep your slugs and snails at bay. Many councils will allow backyard chickens in suburbia. Although I do not have chickens …yet (Pictured above is mums ‘Chick Inn’) my council allows x6 backyard chickens on properties 600sqm -2000sqm.
15. Back to Basics
Bread/milk/butter/pizza dough. The age-old skill of baking your own bread is a fantastic skill to have! How amazing to just whip up a fresh loaf of bread or make your own pizza bread without the preservatives or plastic packaging. Milk is super easy and you can make delicious plastic, preservative-free milk whenever you want! Whether that’s oat, rice or almond milk.
16. Learn to Preserve Harvests
I am not really at a point yet where I have an abundance of produce to preserve but I have planted a lot of fruit trees…so I am starting to learn different ways to preserve things so that when I am flooded with produce (yay!) I will be able to make the most of it! Get some produce from the farmer’s markets and give it a go! Jams, chutneys, sauces, pickles, nasturtium capers and all those delicious things. They also make great gifts and can be used to swap for other produce with your friends and family and community.
17. Make your Own
Ditch the toxic chemicals and pesticides and start making your own natural cleaning and garden products. You can get a few ingredients from your local bulk stores such as white vinegar and bicarb soda and make a huge range of cleaning products. Check out my Citrus cleaner here. I also used crushed eggshells to keep slugs and snails at bay. Natural pest management
18. Learn, Read, Practice
I can’t stress how important this is! Knowledge is power. Join your local library and get a book on jam making or search YouTube for “how to prune a lemon tree”. Educating yourself and giving things a go will get you a long way on your journey to living a more self-sufficient lifestyle. Take things one a time and really try and master it before moving on. It can be overwhelming if you try to do it all at once and may lead to failure and giving up.
Small and slow solutions!
Holly 🌱
MY GARDENING ESSENTIALS // Fertiliser spray gun: https://bit.ly/366nL1t Retractable Hose: https://bit.ly/2TSC0Bo More gardening tools: https://bit.ly/32IQmbD
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my page so I can continue to provide you with free content!
When I first started gardening here I remember googling ” how to keep plants alive in a heatwave?” 😅 Welcome to Perth summer gardening! I have always struggled with how hot it gets here in Perth in summer. After 7 years here, the 40degree days don’t get any easier! We have a large amount of thermal mass at our house with concrete and paved areas so it can get so hot in my garden! One of the main reasons I decided to make pallet planters on wheels was to be able to grow more food during the hot summer months by being able to have them undercover on hot days. Watch how we made them here.
How to keep plants alive in a heatwave
If you are experiencing a heatwave or have days of hot weather ahead of you, here are a few tips I use to try and get my plants through!
🌱 WATER | Give a good deep water early in the morning. This will allow time for the moisture to reach the roots before it evaporates.
🌱 SHADE | If your plants are in containers move them undercover or to a shady area of your garden. Otherwise, try and rig up some temporary shade using shade cloth or even umbrellas to keep the direct sun off your plants during the hottest part of the day.
🌱 PROTECT THE SOIL | Ensure you have a good layer of mulch or ground cover over your entire garden. This will protect the soil from being exposed to direct sun and reduce the amount of water loss through evaporation.
🌱 BUILD SOIL | This is something that should be continually worked on by composting and adding more fibre and leaf matter to your soil. Sandy soils like we have here in Perth allow all the water to drain away and can become severely water-resistant. But by consistently mulching, composting and adding green matter, you will not only grow strong, healthy plants but also protect your plants from future dry spells. Healthy soil is key!
🌱 REPLENISH | As the sun goes down and the temperatures start to drop again, give your plants another well-earnt drink. This should help their leaves perk back up again.
🌱 SAVE SEEDS | If you notice a certain plant seems to survive better than others in hot weather, make sure you save the seeds at the end of the season. That way you can futureproof your garden by growing strong plants that you know will grow well in your exact climate.
My favourite watering tools are:
Retractable Hose with 7 spray nozzle and water flow adjuster: Control exactly how much flow you want to each plant with an easy retractable hose system. CLICK HERE for more info.
Deep root waterer and soil breaker: Helps get water directly to the roots without any runoff or loss of water from evaporation. CLICK HERE for more info.
Weeper hose works great for drip-feeding water and allowing the plants to absorb more. CLICK HERE for more info.
Happy Gardening!
Holly 🌱
MY GARDENING ESSENTIALS // Fertiliser spray gun: https://bit.ly/366nL1t Retractable Hose: https://bit.ly/2TSC0Bo More gardening tools: https://bit.ly/32IQmbD
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my page so I can continue to provide you with free content!
I much prefer offering natural and sustainable solutions rather than a pointless list of negative things not to do. But this topic is something I am very passionate about and something new gardeners often get caught up in (including myself when I first started growing food many years ago). You will find my list of natural pest management remedies below 🙂
When you first start growing food you will get slugs and snails eating your new precious veggies and will want to INSTANTLY fix the situation. I see some newbie gardeners pour on huge amounts of snail bait to combat the hungry predators. This is POISON, not only will it kill the slugs and snails but is also deadly to cats and dogs. Now, if it can kill dogs, having it covering the soil and getting watered in and absorbed into the soil that your vegetable will feed on, especially those root vegetables, cannot be good for us.
If you’re reading this and thinking…I do this..you are not alone. It is something that has been a “norm” for way too long. But the first step you can take is safely throw out your poisonous slug bait. I would place it in something that animals can’t get into in case it crosses paths or they get into the bins. Even better, contact your local council to find the best way to safely dispose of it.
Watch my latest video
There are plenty of ways to naturally combat pests and have safe and nontoxic vegetables for your family.
Eggshells – Save your eggshells and dry in the oven on low. Then crush into small pieces and place in a jar. Sprinkle this around the base of your vegetables and the slugs and snails do not like the surface so will stay away. It also adds some beneficial calcium to your soil.
Plant extras – Plant a few extra plants in different areas of your garden so that if one gets attacked you still have plenty 🙂
Encourage beneficial insects – Plant diversity and flowers to create habitats and attract beneficial insects. You could even make an insect hotel using lots of different sized sticks and logs for them to live 🐞🐝
Manually remove – Go out and check your garden and remove the pests by hand. I often do this when I am on the phone, its a great way to multitask.
Beer Traps – Cheaper the better, there is no need to use up any fancy craft beer. Place little containers around your vegetable patch and this will capture the slugs and snails before they get to your precious veggies 🍺
Coffee grounds – Often your workplace or local cafe will be throwing these out anyway. Sprinkle around the base. Only add a small amount as it will change the PH of the soil ☕️
Companion Plants – Often very fragrant plants will repel pests. These are plants such as: Marigolds and Rosemary 🌼🌿
Soapy Water – this is great for aphids. All my dishwashing liquid is non-toxic and greywater friendly so I just mix up some diluted in water and paint it on the new growth that is affected by aphids. This is the last resort though as it may harm beneficial insects too. Try and isolate the coverage.
Chilli spray – Mix up some chilli powder in some water and spray on your affected plants. I have read crushed garlic as well but that is bad for dogs so I would avoid.
Healthy Soil – growing healthy soil by composting and mulching helps keep your plants strong and healthy 💪 this means that if they do get bugs they can survive and thrive after an infestation.
Sacrificial plants – Usually one plant will just get attacked and I just leave it. It usually means the bugs will only eat that plant and the rest will be fine! Sorry for that one plant but it’s feeding nature…🌿
Chickens and ducks are also a great way to integrate natural pest management into your garden. Win-win 🐛🦆
MY GARDENING ESSENTIALS // Fertiliser spray gun: https://bit.ly/366nL1t Retractable Hose: https://bit.ly/2TSC0Bo More gardening tools: https://bit.ly/32IQmbD
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my page so I can continue to provide you with free content!
Wondering whether to plant a dwarf or standard fruit tree? This guide breaks down the differences, wind resistance, harvesting, and space requirements for home gardeners. As someone who grows a lot of fruit trees in a small space…dwarf fruit trees are something I use intentionally in my urban permaculture garden but…
There are some big misconceptions when it comes to dwarf fruit trees.
Dwarf and semi-dwarf fruit trees allow me to fit more varieties into my urban food forest and reduce the amount of work I need to do in terms of pruning … because when you’re looking after 100s of trees, this makes a difference! But not all dwarf fruit trees are equal!
Over the years, I’ve realised that a lot of people misunderstand what “dwarf fruit trees” actually means. So in this post, I want to break it down:
What does a dwarf fruit tree really mean?
How do they differ from semi‑dwarf and standard trees?
How to decide if dwarf or standard fruit trees are best for your garden?
What are other ways to keep fruit trees smaller?
Do standard fruit trees live longer?
What Do “Dwarf Fruit Trees” Actually Mean?
When we talk about dwarf fruit trees, we’re not talking about a different type of fruit.
We’re talking about the rootstock.
If you get, for example, a Meyer lemon, it might come in dwarf, semi-dwarf, and standard. The actual Meyer lemon tree and genetics are the same across all 3.
The fruit will be the same size, same colour, same flavour, the leaves the same, everything is genetically the same.
The difference is that they are all grafted onto a different rootstock.
Rootstocks are usually seed-grown or cloned for specific traits.
Dwarf rootstocks grow slowly, and the root systems are smaller and less vigorous. This means the trees stay small and dwarfed. Standard sizes, however, will utilise a rootstock that grows vigorously to get big, quick-growing fruit trees.
This does affect the amount of fruit you can get! A 3-4m tree will be able to hold a lot more fruit than a compact 1m tree.
Why “Dwarf” Doesn’t Mean “Tiny Forever”
One of the biggest misconceptions is that dwarf fruit trees stay small automatically. This is not always the case:
In reality, dwarf trees are smaller than standard trees..
But they still grow….
…and they still benefit from pruning and management!
This is especially important with larger fruit tree species.
For example:
A dwarf lemon might mature around 2 metres tall
But a dwarf avocado or mango can still reach 4–5 metres
The difference is how fast they get there.
A standard avocado can shoot well over 5 metres in just a few years, and then reach 8+ m once mature. While a dwarf avocado grows much more slowly and predictably, which makes it far easier to manage in a home garden or food forest. On the downside, restricted, slow growth may not be the right fit for you. You may want to have your tree grow quickly, create shade cover, and then maintain it at the desired height by regular pruning. It all depends on your goals!
Dwarf vs Semi‑Dwarf vs Standard
There are pros and cons to both dwarf and non-dwarf fruit trees…So how do you decide which is right for you?
Super Dwarf and Dwarf Fruit Trees
Super Dwarf Stonefruit: There is a small collection of fruit trees classed as “super dwarf”, such as the super dwarf nectarine and peach trees. I have one of each, and they are said to grow to 1.5m tall. Their growth has been very slow! Only growing a few inches in a season compared to my dwarf nectarine, which grew over 1m in a season. These would be great for pots and people with very small spaces. I am also using them in my food forest to grow in the low – middle layers.
Dwarf Citrus: Again, these can be very slow growing – I have a dwarf lime that is about 1.5m tall at 8 years old. Great for pots or small spaces, but very slow-growing!
Dwarf Stonefruit: These are great for urban gardens and pots. Stonefruit such as peach, apricot and plum trees can grow rapidly and require heavy pruning to shape them. Dwarf stonefruit still grows pretty fast and will need pruning from a young age to shape, but a little less aggressively, which is nice! All the stonefruit that i grow in my urban garden are on dwarf rootstock.
Dwarf Mango: Unlike other fruit trees, dwarf mango trees are usually more about a variety that is slow-growing and not the rootstock. Dwarf Mangos may still get to 5+m tall if left unpruned, but it could take them over 10 years to get there. Slower growth may mean you only need to prune them every other year or so.
Dwarf Avocado: Dwarf Avocados, like mango, can still grow to be a very large tree if left unpruned. Slower growth rates will allow you to prune less aggressively to keep them compact.
Dwarf Mulberry: You may be surprised to hear that dwarf Mulberries can also grow to be large trees! Slower growth rates will help to keep them smaller. Regular pruning as the mulberry fruit well on new growth.
Dwarf Banana: Full-sized banana racks that you can reach without climbing a huge ladder! The shorter varieties get less battered by wind.
Semi Dwarf Fruit Trees
I love semi dwarf fruit trees as they grow faster than a dwarf but not as intensively as a standard. A productive, happy medium if you are prepared to prune. For citrus, I would recommend selecting a semi-dwarf, even for a pot. Like my semi-dwarf Lemonade Tree pictured below! Productive but still manageable. Faster growing and stronger root systems, but still manageable. Larger trees like avocado and mango, I like selecting the dwarf varieties.
Standard Fruit Trees
Standard fruit trees do not hold back. They can get to their mature height within a few years if left unpruned. This also means you can get quick shade and abundant harvests a lot faster! Bigger roots = bigger trees = more fruit.
Great if size is not a problem and you don’t mind a regular pruning routine. After all, pruning can be turned into mulch to feed your garden.
The downside is that if they do get very large and tall, it can make maintaining them a lot harder (or more expensive). Fruit that may be too hard to reach, trees cannot be netted, and then they attract unwanted pests and diseases.
Did you know dwarf fruit trees may not live as long as a standard? Due to their root restrictions dwarf fruit trees may live 10-20 years compared to a stanadard that may live 30+ years!
Dwarf vs Non-Dwarf Bananas
What’s the Difference?
Bananas are often grouped into “dwarf” and “non-dwarf” types, but the key difference isn’t fruit size…It’s plant height and manageability.
Dwarf bananas typically grow around 2–3.5m tall
Non-dwarf bananas can reach 4–7m+
Despite the size difference, both can produce similar-sized bunches. The real impact is how they perform in your garden’s conditions.
Wind Resistance
Wind is one of the biggest challenges when growing bananas.
Dwarf varieties are shorter and more compact, making them far more stable in strong winds. They’re less likely to snap, lean, or topple…especially important in exposed gardens.
Non-dwarf varieties grow tall with large, sail-like leaves. This makes them much more vulnerable to wind damage, particularly when carrying heavy fruit. They often need shelter or support to prevent falling over. The size and amount of the bananas produced are determined throughout the whole growing period. shredded leaves = less sun captured, which can result in smaller bunches of bananas.
Harvesting
Harvesting is where dwarf bananas really stand out for home gardeners.
Dwarf bananas produce fruit at a reachable height, making harvesting simple, safe, and ladder-free.
Non-dwarf bananas Harvesting often requires ladders or tools, and heavy bunches can be awkward and risky to manage.
Other ways to Keep Fruit Trees Smaller?(Size Control Beyond Rootstock)
Marcotting (Air Layering)
Marcotting, also known as air layering, is a method where a branch is encouraged to grow roots while still attached to the parent tree. Once roots have formed, that branch is cut off and planted as its own tree.
Why this matters for size control:
Marcotted trees grow on their own roots, not a vigorous seed-grown rootstock
They tend to be less vigorous than grafted standard trees because they have no tap root
The tree often stays smaller and easier to manage
Many tropical and subtropical fruit trees respond very well to this method
Commonly marcotted trees include:
citrus (bush types)
lychee
longan
fig
mulberry
Marcotting doesn’t create a true “dwarf” tree in the commercial sense, but it often results in a naturally compact, slower-growing tree… especially compared to seed-grown or standard-grafted trees.
Regular Pruning – To Control the Size
This is one of the most overlooked truths about fruit trees: Tree size is something you manage over time. Even a standard fruit tree can be kept small with:
consistent pruning
removing vertical leaders
encouraging horizontal growth
Pruning little and often is far easier than letting a tree grow huge and trying to cut it back later. This approach is commonly used in: backyard orchards, food forests, and espalier systems. Pruning in late summer or autumn after a tree has finished fruiting can help keep the size down.
But…. some trees can mean you do more pruning than it is worth it. This is a personal decision, but I have removed trees for this exact reason! My Mulberry tree was creating more work than I received in fruit, so I ended up removing it to plant something else.
Root Restriction – Containers & In-Ground Methods
Limiting root space naturally limits tree size. This can be done by:
Growing fruit trees in large pots
Planting in raised beds
using root barriers in the ground
While root restriction can reduce ultimate size, it does mean more attention to watering and more attention to soil health and nutrients.
Soil & Fertility Management
Highly fertile, heavily watered soil encourages fast, vigorous growth. In my garden, I have poor sandy soils and low rainfall, so that naturally slows down the growth rate.
Using natural gardening methods such as chop and drop, composting and worm castings will act as slow-release energy.
Synthetic commercial fertilisers can cause extreme growth rates or yields, which means the trees can grow faster than the roots can keep up with. Leading to snapped branches and damaged trees.
Climate and Conditions
Your climate and conditions can slow the rate of growth in fruit trees. Short summers or cool winters may mean tropical trees like avocado and mango only grow for short periods of the year. Other climates that have optimum conditions could mean the trees grow all year long, resulting in 2-3x faster growth.
Here in Perth, tropicals like Banana, Papaya and Mango slow down and stop growing during the colder winter months (they also lack water during our hot dry summers!). This means our tropical trees do not get as big as quickly as warmer, more tropical locations.
So… Which One Is Right for You?
Choosing between dwarf, semi‑dwarf, and standard fruit trees comes down to a few key questions:
How much space do you realistically have?
Do you want low‑maintenance or are you happy to prune regularly?
Are you growing in a food forest, backyard, or orchard setting?
Do you want faster, smaller harvests or larger harvests and long‑term canopy trees?
In my own garden, dwarf and semi‑dwarf trees allow me to grow more diversity, more fruit, and manage everything sustainably without spending every weekend pruning.
I tend to avoid dwarf citrus and select semi-dwarf for quicker growth and more fruit. I opt for dwarf Stonefruit, Mango and Avocados where possible.
There’s no single “best” option… just the best choice for your garden and lifestyle. But in smaller gardens where space is a huge consideration, dwarf and semi-dwarf can be a great way to go!
If you have any questions about growing dwarf fruit trees vs standard, let me know.
Don’t want to wait for homegrown fruits? Plant these 20 fast-growing fruits for quick harvests!
When you’re starting a food forest or edible garden from scratch, it can feel like the SLOWEST waiting game for your fruit trees to grow and start producing fruit…or just survive their first few summers!! That’s why I love planting fast-growing, early-yielding fruits and perennials that bring quick shade, soil life, and harvests while the slower long-term trees mature.
After 10+ years of gardening in a hot climate like Perth, I’ve learned that success comes down to three simple things:
🌿 Plant densely 🌿 Focus on perennials 🌿 Grow living shade
Because when plants are left exposed and spaced too far apart, they struggle. But when you fill your garden with layers? Everything grows faster, healthier… and with far less effort. And what do I mean by fast? Fruiting within 12 – 24 months!
This guide is based on what I grow in my urban food forest here in Perth, Australia, which is a zone 10b.
Why Fast-Growing Fruit Trees Matter in a Food Forest
In a natural system, bare soil doesn’t last long. Something will always move in to cover it, whether that’s grass, weeds… or plants you actually want. Fast-growing fruiting plants act as your “in-between” layer while your main trees establish.
They help to:
Shade the soil and reduce water loss
Protect young trees from harsh sun and wind
Feed the soil through leaf drop and chop-and-drop
Attract pollinators and beneficial insects
Think of them as your support system…not just quick fruiting plants (but yay bonus!). Many of these are temporary or short-term plants in your garden.
You can: 👉 Chop them back 👉 Take cutting or seeds, then move them 👉 Or remove them completely
…once your long-term trees take over.
20 Fast-Growing Fruit Trees and Plants for Quick Harvests
These fast-growing fruit trees and plants are perfect for filling space in a young food forest while your long-term trees establish. Many will start producing within the first year or two, while also helping to create shade, build soil, and support the overall system. Some will become permanent features in your garden, while others can be pruned, moved, reproduced, or replaced as your space evolves.
1. Banana or Plantain (Musa spp.)
I LOVE growing Bananas in my edible garden. Bananas create an instant canopy and lush tropical vibes within months. They love warm conditions, and their large leaves provide shade, living mulch, and plenty of biomass for chop-and-drop. With the right moisture and feeding, you can harvest fruit within 12–18 months of planting.
I prefer to grow smaller dwarf varieties (dwarf ducasse, dwarf red dacca, and dwarf cavendish) that produce quicker and don’t grow as tall to get damaged by the wind. My plantain Bananas (Pacific Plantain) took exactly 2 years for their first bunch, but that clump will produce much faster now that there is an established rhizome.
2. Papaya (Carica papaya)
Papayas are your value-for-money fast-growing fruit! They start producing quickly, often producing ripe fruit in just 9–12 months from seed. They produce A LOT OF FRUIT on a single plant, and you can regrow 100s more from the seeds. I have grown all mine from seed!
The fast, upright growth provides light shade for young understorey plants. Perfect for filling sunny gaps while your long-term trees mature. I call these myumbrella plants! And having umbrella plants for a HOT SUMMER here in Perth is crucial! Plus, you can eat the fruits green like a vegetable or ripe as a fruit. I have found the key to success with Papaya is strength in numbers.
Planting from seed means you may get bisexual, female, or male plants. They can also be fickle and die off over winter, so having more options means you have backup.
3. Tamarillo (Solanum betaceum)
These fast-growing fruit trees will produce in as little as 12- 18 months and adds a splash of colour with their vibrant red or golden fruit.
Tamarillo isn’t a fan of super hot sun and is best as a middle layer – so it’s great to grow under the dappled light or larger trees such as Mulberry or Banana. Or if you have a shady part of the garden and you are not sure what to grow! I also grow these from seed so that I can have backups.
They are very easy to grow from seed, just like their family members – the tomatoes. Cold snaps or extreme heat can kill off plants quickly. Tamarillo is also known as the tree tomato. Their tart fruits can be eaten fresh and are delicious with ice cream, yoghurt or in an apple crumble! They can also be used savoury in fresh chutneys and sauces. I love growing fruits that can be used in both sweet and savoury dishes. This helps a food forest be twice as productive!
4. Mulberry (Morus spp.)
Mulberries are absolute powerhouses of rapid growth and heavy yields, and are perfect for planting over chicken coops. They grow easily from cuttings and often fruit in their first season.
Mulberries fruit in Spring, which can be a lean time for fruits. Their broad leaves create valuable summer shade. Mulberries are deciduous, so they drop their leaves in winter for lots of garden mulch. As a result, they are often grown next to animal paddocks and chicken coops to offer summer shade and a bonus food source.
🚨 Mulberries do grow rapidly and have large, vast root systems, which can be hard to maintain in a small urban garden. I have used these as quick shade to help my gardens establish and then removed within 2 years (not easily with large roots!).
5. Cape Gooseberry (Physalis peruviana)
A quick win for any garden, these fruit in as little as 4–6 months from seed. Cape Gooseberry self-seeds, is easy to grow, and thrives in hot, dry climates. They produce golden, tangy berries that are perfect for snacking or jam-making. But…mostly, they don’t make it out of the garden! The plants are compact and usually stay under 1m tall.
6. Passionfruit (Passiflora edulis)
Passionfruit are rapid growers! Racing up fences and trellises to provide privacy and summer shade. If you purchase a plant from cuttings (most store-bought are from cuttings) they can fruit in their first summer, if not the second!
Seed grown will usually be 2-3 years to fruit. Passionfruit are ideal for utilising vertical space to grow more fruits. There are many different varieties, and having different types can extend your season.
I always suggest AVOIDING GRAFTED VARIETIES. Especially here in Perth. They are not needed, and the rootstock can easily get away from you and send up suckers 100s of metres away.
A fast, compact shrub that usually fruits in the first year from cutting grown. Producing bright red berries packed with vitamin C and can produce multiple sets of fruit throughout the year. Drought-tolerant once established and great for small gardens or food forest edges.
A great option for a tropical cherry-like fruit in warm climates. They have beautiful pink flowers that are amazing for attracting pollinators, too. They are easy to grow from cuttings to add in hot spots of your garden to get quick shade and fruit!
8. Brazilian Cherry (Eugenia uniflora)
This tough, evergreen shrub grows quickly, and with glossy, dense leaves, it would make a beautiful edible hedge. Fruits within 1–2 years, often multiple times a year in warm climates. The deep red fruits are tart-sweet and a magnet for birds and bees. It can also be grown as a middle-layer shrub. They grow easily from seed or cutting to multiply throughout the garden.
9. Guava (Psidium guajava & Psidium cattleyanum)
A resilient, quick-establishing fruit tree that’s highly productive within 1–3 years. Guavas handle pruning well, making them easy to shape for compact gardens. They are hardy, and their dense canopy provides valuable shade and leaf litter for mulch. Great for making smoothie bowls or fruit leather!
🚨 In some states and countries, Psidium cattleyanum (cherry guava)self-seeds easily and is spread by birds and are considered a pest. That is not the case here in Perth, but check with your local biosecurity.
10. Feijoa / Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana)
This Kiwi’s favourite fruit! Feijoas are both ornamental and edible with silver-green foliage, stunning flowers, and delicious autumn fruit. The KEY is choosing a named variety/ grafted variety for quality fruit that starts producing in the first year.
Feijoas are fast to establish and low-maintenance, and they make excellent edible hedges.
They are also said to have fire-retardant qualities. Usually, they fruit abundantly within 2–3 years. I prune these back by 1/3 each year to create mulch for my garden. The seedling “generic” ones can take more like 5-6 years to fruit.
11. Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica)
A hardy evergreen and fast-growing fruit tree (especially grafted trees). Loquats flower in late winter and fruit in early spring, bringing colour and food in an “in-between” time. Their lush canopy and year-round foliage make them excellent habitat trees.
They do grow very quickly and very large, so they can be hard to maintain in an urban garden. I’m growing mine in a pot, but it would be best to keep them small and well-pruned so you can bag or net the fruits. The fruits are sweet and taste kind of like a mix of pear, mango and apricot!
🚨 In some states and countries, theyself-seed easily and are spread by birds and are considered a pest. That is not the case here in Perth, but check with your local biosecurity.
12. Fig (Ficus carica)
Few fruit trees grow faster and produce more than figs. They can bear fruit in their second year and love hot, dry conditions. Their dense canopy provides shade in summer, and being deciduous, their leaves provide organic matter.
One thing that surprised me about figs is the huge range of flavours with different varieties. From the sweet, honey-like yellow figs to the strawberry jam flavours. SO MUCH BETTER than any store-bought fig. Figs also grow well in pots and containers for urban gardens. They can have very strong root systems, so it is important to consider that when planting. Avoid planting them close to structures or pavings.
13. Ice Cream Bean (Inga edulis)
A nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing fruit tree that grows incredibly fast, adding instant shade and biomass. They produce long, sweet pods filled with cottony, vanilla-flavoured pulp. Ideal as a pioneer species to improve soil fertility, create quick shade and microclimates. Ice-cream beans are fast growers and can grow to 8m, so they can be better suited to those with plenty of space or who are happy to regularly prune for garden mulch.
14. Strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa)
A classic quick win for any edible garden! Strawberries fruit within months and spread easily to fill bare soil. Perfect as an edible groundcover or on the edges of your garden beds. They help to shade the soil and retain moisture. Their flowers attract pollinators and their fruit… make the best garden snacks! 🍓
15. Dragon Fruit (Hylocereus spp.)
A fast-growing climbing cactus that can start fruiting within 1–2 years in warm climates. It’s perfect for growing vertically on a trellis, fence, or post, helping you maximise space in a young food forest. Dragon fruit comes in many colours and flavours, making it a collector’s dream! It is important to have a sturdy trellis ready for these fast growers.
16. Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
A fast-growing tropical plant that produces edible calyxes within just a few months. Rosella thrives in warm climates and is perfect for teas, syrups, and jams, adding both colour and diversity to your garden. It also grows into a productive, shrubby plant that helps fill space and build biomass. Part of the hibiscus family it is both ornamental and edible!
17. Melons (Watermelon, Rockmelon, Honeydew)
Melons are fast-growing, sprawling plants that can produce fruit within a single season. They quickly cover bare soil, helping to suppress weeds and retain moisture while your garden is still establishing.
In hot climates, they thrive with plenty of sun and make a rewarding, high-yield addition to summer gardens. You can also grow melons vertically to save space and add more shade to your summer gardens.
18. Blackberries / Brambles (Rubus spp.)
Blackberries are vigorous, fast-growing brambles that can produce fruit within their first or second season. They spread easily and can quickly fill vertical space along fences or trellises, creating a productive edible barrier – it is important to grow them in contained beds. While they can be a bit wild if left unmanaged, regular pruning keeps them productive and makes harvesting much easier. If you choose a thornless variety like “Chester” or similar, they do not sucker or send runners as vigorously as the traditional blackberries.
19. Lemonade Tree (Sweet Lemon Variety)
A lemonade tree is a great option if you want a citrus that produces in abundance at a young age! and more reliably in warm climates. These sweet, low-acid lemons can often fruit from a young age, especially when grafted, and are incredibly productive once established. They also add structure to your garden while still giving you relatively quick harvests compared to other fruit trees.
20. Pepino Melon (Solanum muricatum)
This low-growing perennial fruits within months, producing juicy, melon-flavoured fruit. It’s perfect as an understorey groundcover or filler plant in young gardens. Quick to root from cuttings and thrives in partial shade beneath taller trees.
🚨Here in Perth, they are a host plant to spider mites (that thrive in hot, dry climates), so always be wary when purchasing them and keep an eye out in your garden. Unfortunately, they are no longer something I grow due to this, but I do love them!
Fast-Growing Fruit Trees Are the Key to a Thriving Food Forest
If you’re starting a food forest, it’s easy to feel like everything is taking too long, but the secret isn’t to wait…. It’s to plant your way through that waiting period.
Fast-growing fruit trees and plants aren’t just about quick harvests; they’re about building a system that supports itself over time. They create shade, protect your soil, and help your long-term trees establish faster, and before you know it, what once felt slow starts to become abundant, layered, and productive.
The key to success in my high-density gardens is to give my long-term crops, such as Mango and Avocado, the most amount of space. Then I go in with these fast-growing fruit trees and plants so that I can offer shade and protection, as well as eventually mulch when I prune them or chop them out completely.
I hope this list offers you some ideas and inspiration to add to your garden for some quick wins! Are you growing any of these in your garden? I would love to know.
Grass is one of the biggest challenges when turning a backyard into a productive food forest. Instead of constantly fighting it, I’ve developed a simple strategy to stop grass growing and gradually transform the lawn into thriving garden spaces.
If you’ve ever felt like you’re failing because grass keeps popping up in your garden beds… you’re not alone. When I first started gardening, I thought success meant having perfectly clean, grass-free beds. But over time, I realised something important:
👉 Grass isn’t the problem …it’s actually playing an important role.
And once you understand why it’s growing, you can actually make your garden a place where grass struggles… and your plants thrive. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how I’ve gone from grass-filled garden beds to low-maintenance, mostly grass-free systems…without chemicals or constant weeding or chemicals.
I’ve managed to get two of my garden beds to be pretty much grass-free from this strategy. So, I want to share it with you so that you can start working on it in your garden as well, and not feel like you are failing. If you prefer to watch, check out the full video below.
Why Grass Keeps Growing in Your Garden Beds
You may be able to see in some of my videos or photos that I do have grass growing in some of my garden beds. And it’s not something I’m worried or stressed about because I know I’ve got plans in place that are going to help me manage that long term. I have transformed two of my main food forest garden beds from half-full of grass to almost zero grass!
It’s really important to figure out some of the key factors on what grass needs to grow and thrive so that we can flip that and make it a less desirable environment for grass to grow, so that we can slow it down while we wait for our long-term strategy to kick in.
Grass is a pioneer plant. It shows up first. It covers the soil to try and protect it, try and get things to grow. So it does have an important role in the garden. Grass likes two key things: SUNLIGHT & FREE DRAINING SOIL. My hot, open front yard is prime growing conditions for grass to thrive! So if we know what grass likes, we can FLIP IT and make a less desirable environment for grass.
Roots in the ground are always better than dry, bare soil. Grass is quick to turn sunlight and water into available sugars as well as provide shade and habitat for beneficial soil microbes and insects. But some of us do prefer grass-free garden beds…so how do we start to slow down the grass growth and eliminate it FOREVER? 👉 Let’s talk about my 2-phase grass suppression strategy.
My Easy Two-Phase Grass Suppression Strategy
Stopping grass growing in your garden beds isn’t going to happen overnight, but with a plan and some patience, you can have grass-free gardens bursting with edible plants. There are TWO key parts to the plan!A long-term strategy and some short-term solutions to get started with while you wait for the long-term strategy to kick in. They both work together to create one solution: no grass in your garden beds!
1. Long-term Strategy to Stop Grass
We know that grass likes sunlight, so the long-term plan is to block all sunlight reaching the ground level of your garden beds. We do this by:
Growing a tall dense canopy – this is your long-term tree crops, for me this is Avocado and Mango, but for you, it could be whatever tall trees your heart desires! These trees can take YEARS to reach a height and size that will block light to the ground, which is why we also have our short-term solutions (which we will touch on soon).
Growing multiple layers of plants – To help block the light from getting to the ground, you can create layers like a forest does. Grass rarely grows in a forest, and if it does, it is usually where tall canopy trees have fallen or been removed to let sunlight in! This means planting shorter shrubs and ground covers to add more density and let less light to the ground level.
Build rich organic soil – have you ever noticed grass or weeds come out much easier in good soil than hard or dry compact soil? Grass is not only easier to remove in rich soil, but it can also slow down the growth.
2. Short-term Solutions to Stop Grass – fast
Once we have our long-term strategy in place and our tall canopy trees planted, what can we do quickly to slow down and suppress grass growing while we wait for those trees to grow? The key is to ALWAYS COVER AND SHADE THE SOIL.
Effective and quick ways to cover and shade the soil to suppress grass?
Use cardboard (with no sticky tape), newspaper or other natural products to cover the soil. This is something I would only do when starting a brand-new garden from scratch. It gives your plants time to grow before the grass gets through.
Layers of mulch – different types of mulch will break down at different rates. I often use two different types of mulch to add nutrition and suppress grass. Options like pea straw and lupin will break down fast, so these usually get added first, then a harder woodchip type mulch on top of that.
Chop & Drop – putting mulch on once and then leaving it will almost always result in the grass growing through. That is why I love using plants in my garden to regularly “chop & drop” to add new layers. In summer, I use quick-growing plants like Queensland Arrowroot, Autumn is when I prune many of my fruit trees and turn this into mulch, then in winter i use brassica leaves or bug-eaten leaves from my annual veggie patch. Using different plants will help give a range of nutrients to your soil. Adding layers of mulch and chop and drop will not only suppress the light but also start building rich organic soil to help your main plants and trees thrive and outgrow the grass!
Add barriers or edging – this can slow down the grass, especially if your garden borders on to the lawn. There is a huge range of things from hardscape elements such as bricks, pavers and metal edging to natural elements such as clumping grasses or plants, logs and even banana trunks!
Grow groundcovers – planting dense and hardy ground covers will act as another layer to block the light. Hardy ground covers are best so that you can add extra mulch or chop and drop straight on top of them and not worry about killing them off.
Outplant it with high-density planting – this is my favourite way to suppress grass! In my annual raised veggie patch, I will plant out my main crops first with enough space, e.g., broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower etc then I will go in and sprinkle seeds in ALL OF THE GAPS! Things like lettuce, radish, carrots, herbs and edible flowers don’t need as much light and can be grown in tight spaces. This blocks the light from reaching the soil and slows down grass and weeds. I take this same approach in my food forest and edible gardens by planting short-term crops in all the gaps. These will be things like: herbs, flowers, Queensland arrowroot, papaya, banana or pigeon pea.
Stop grass from going to seed – regularly trimming the edges and maintaining the grass BEFORE it goes to seed will help stop grasses or weeds from spreading further and making your job harder than it needs to be.
Removing runners and grass periodically – Removing grass or trimming before adding fresh mulch can be a good idea, especially in a young garden. Grass that has not gone to seed can be cut using a whipper snipper or weed eater to create mulch too!
In a natural system, grass is just the beginning…not the end
If there’s one thing to remember, it’s this: Stopping grass in your garden beds isn’t a one-time job… It’s a long-term strategy.
You’re not trying to remove it all at once with nasty chemicals. You’re slowly changing the conditions, so it no longer wants to grow there. Every layer of mulch, every plant you add, every bit of shade you create… It’s all part of that bigger plan.
And yes… it takes time. But while your trees establish and your system fills in, your short-term actions are already making a difference. You’re slowing the grass down, building better soil, and making it easier to manage along the way.
So don’t worry if your garden isn’t grass-free yet 👉 It doesn’t have to be perfect… it just has to be moving in the right direction.
Your home garden can do more than just look nice… You can grow your own groceries and boost your homegrown food security!
With rising food prices and a growing desire for self-sufficiency, growing your own groceries has never been more important. Keep reading to see what to grow in your home garden to replace supermarket staples, from natural sweeteners, salt and pepper, protein-rich legumes, to fresh herbs, healthy fats, and easy-to-harvest fruits and vegetables.
Whether you have a small balcony, a suburban backyard, or a larger food forest, these plants will help you create a homegrown, chemical-free supply of staple crops to grow your own groceries! This guide is based on my garden in Perth, Australia, in a warm climate (zone 10b). :
Your Grow-Your-Own Grocery List
Grow Sugar and Sweeteners
Instead of buying refined sugar, these plants naturally sweeten your food. They’re easy to grow and provide fresh, chemical-free sweetness straight from your garden. Most ripe fruits will offer you natural sugars, but below are some of my top picks!
Plants to Grow for Sugar and Sweeteners:
Sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum) – accounts for about 80% of global sugar production. You can grow sugar cane at home and start producing juicy stalks of sugar!
Sugar Beets (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) – a cool-climate option for natural sugar; roots can be processed into sugar. Like a white beetroot but super sugary! BONUS: Leaves can also be used as a green.
Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) – a perennial herb; leaves can be used fresh or dried as a natural sweetener.
White Mulberry (Morus alba) – ripe berries taste like honey and sugar combined!
Yellow Figs (Ficus carica, Honey Fig) – yellow figs particularly are super sweet, soft, and perfect fresh or dried.
Bananas (Musa spp.) – ripe bananas can sweeten baking or be frozen and blended for natural ice cream.
Grapes (Vitis vinifera) – homegrown grapes are naturally sweet, like nature’s candy.
Pineapple (Ananas comosus) – homegrown pineapple is so sweet! Plus, they grow well in pots or indoors near a sunny window.
Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) – extremely drought-tolerant and produces sweet apple-like fruit that dries naturally into date-like sweets.
Melons (Cucumis melo / Citrullus lanatus) – if you have ever dehydrated watermelon, you would know just how sugary sweet it is! Vine-ripened watermelon, rockmelon, or honeydew melon are all very sweet options.
Grow Salt and Pepper
Yes! You can grow your own salt and pepper in the garden! These plants add salty or peppery flavour while being easy to grow.
Plants to Grow for Salt and Pepper:
Old Man Saltbush (Atriplex nummularia) – hardy Australian native with silvery leaves that are naturally salty! Excellent in salads and cooking. Hardy an ddrough tolerant shrub.
Seaberry Saltbush (Rhagodia candolleana) – red, slightly sweet and salty berries and salty leaves; great for cooking.
Peppervine (Tasmannia lanceolata) – produces Tasmanian peppercorns; berries can be harvested at different stages and dried for red, white, or black pepper.
Kawakawa (Piper excelsum) – NZ native; leaves and ripe orange (female) seeds can be dried for pepper!
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) – edible flowers and leaves with a natural peppery bite. The leaves pack more of a spicy punch, and the flowers have a nice, mild pepper flavour. The green seed pods can be pickled and made into “poor man capers”.
Rocket / Arugula (Eruca vesicaria) – fast-growing leafy green with a strong peppery flavour.
Grow Protein-Rich Plants
Legumes and other protein-rich plants are essential for a self-sufficient garden. They are easy to grow, nutritious, and have the added bonus of naturally improving soil fertility – to grow more food!
Plants to Grow for a Source of Protein:
Bush Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) – fast-growing, compact, and perfect for vertical gardening.
Perennial Beans / Madagascar Bean (Phaseolus coccineus) – also called the seven-year bean; keeps producing for many seasons.
Edamame / Soybean (Glycine max) – high protein with 12g of protein per 100g, similar to two eggs.
Pigeon Pea (Cajanus cajan) – edible pods can be eaten green or dried; nitrogen-fixing for healthy soil. One of my top support plants in the garden for mulch and food!
Peas (Pisum sativum) – eat pods and shoots; excellent garden snack for the cooler months.
Chickpeas (Cicer arietinum) – dry and store for long-term use.
Lentils (Lens culinaris) – nutritious and easy to store.
Broccoli and other Brassicas (Brassica oleracea) – surprisingly high in protein compared to many vegetables.
Grow Snacks and Fruit
Swap packaged snacks for fresh, garden-grown fruits. I love nothing more than a wander through the garden to find snacks!
Plants to Grow for Snacks:
Lemon Cherry Guava (Psidium cattleyanum) – sweet and compact. I love the yellow variety with sweet snackable fruit!
Berries – give us all the berries! Strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, kiwiberry, the list goes on!
Apples (Malus domestica) – a versatile staple base crop
Bananas (Musa spp.) – come with natural packaging, and homegrown bananas are so delicious!
Passionfruit (Passiflora edulis) – robust skin, easy to take with you on the go.
Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) – sweet, tangy fruit – tastes like a mix of apricot, pear and mango.
Mulberries (Morus spp.) – prolific and easy to harvest. Eat fresh off the tree as a garden snack.
Snap Peas (Pisum sativum) – crunchy and great for snacking. These never make it out of the garden! They are too delicious.
Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) – long-lasting root crop. Great to eat with some homemade hummus using your legumes!
Lebanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) – Snack- sized cucumbers are usually sweeter and crisper than store-bought ones because they can be harvested and eaten immediately.
Grow Healthy Fats
Healthy fats from plants are easy to grow and replace processed oils.
Plants to Grow for Healthy Fats and Oils:
Avocado (Persea americana) – high in monounsaturated fats. Delicious substitute for butter in many meals. I feel like having an avocado tree in the backyard is living rich 😆
Macadamia (Macadamia integrifolia) – slow to mature but productive for years.
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) – seeds for snacking, butter, or oil.
Almond (Prunus dulcis) – nutrient-dense and versatile.
Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) – peanuts are so fun and easy to grow in warm climates. They can also be grown in a pot or a container.
Olives (Olea europaea) – can be pressed for oil; collaborate with neighbours to share processing costs.
Grow Greens and Salad
Leafy greens are one of the easiest edibles to grow at home and replace pre-packaged salads! You don’t need a big garden, pots and containers work great too!
Plants to Grow for Greens and Salads:
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) – cut-and-come-again varieties for continuous harvest. Let one lettuce go to seed each year, and you will have an endless supply!
New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) – great edible ground cover, drought-tolerant, self-seeding greens. Great for soups, stir-fries, and curries.
Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla) – nutrient-dense and versatile. I love growing chard, especially rainbow chard, in my kitchen garden. The colours brighten up a winter garden! Plus, make easy one-ingredient preservative-free wraps!
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica) – robust, flavorful leaves. Kale gets a bad rap, but it is easy to grow, and its rough leaves and curls are amazing at holding on to flavour. So the key is to cook it or massage dressing into it for a salad!
Longevity Spinach (Gynura procumbens) – perennial, nutrient-rich, especially good for warm climates. Known for managing blood sugar and reducing inflammation.
Grow Carbs and Staples
Processed carbs aren’t necessary when you can grow your own and boost your homegrown food security. Root crops are one of the highest accumulators of herbicides and pesticides because they spend their whole life in the soil that is commercially sprayed with nasties. So if you want to replace supermarket food with spray-free veggies, I would have these high on my “to grow list”.
Plants to Grow for Carbs:
Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) – one of my top edible plants, it is sooo easy to grow, and once you grow sweet potato, you literally will never have to buy another plant ever again. To get started, you can grow from a store-bought by either placing it in soil or a jar of water to sprout. The leaves are also edible, which is always a bonus when talking about food security.
Pumpkin (Cucurbita spp.) – the great thing about pumpkins is that you can grow a bunch and then dry or cure them for long-term storage and use throughout the rest of the year.
Queensland Arrowroot (Canna edulis /indica) – another core plant in my garden because of the multiple uses! As a carbohydrate, it grows rhizomes under the ground that can be used as a substitute for potatoes. A perennial potato! You can also make flour to use in cooking and baking. But it is also great at providing shade, wind protection and the water-filled stems make amazing chop and drop mulch to feed the garden.
Potato (Solanum tuberosum) – a classic staple – you don’t need a lot of space to grow potatoes; they can be easily grown in tubs and containers. Perfect for small gardens.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – It is a nutrient-dense, low-calorie fruit, with most of its calories coming from these healthy carbohydrates. The amazing thing about papaya is that you get two options to eat it: green as a vegetable or ripe as a fruit, two for the price of one space in the garden!
Plantain (Musa paradisiaca) – offering a sustained energy release due to its high resistant starch and fibre content. Also, ripe plantains can still be eaten as bananas; they just aren’t as sugary.
Grow Flavour and Herbs
Instead of buying lifeless flavour from jars, grow your own and give your meals real freshness straight from the garden 🌿
Plants to Grow for Carbs:
Herbs – herbs are a powerhouse flavour enhancer. Fresh herbs are stronger and have more nutrients than the plain, processed dried herbs found in stores. Go outside and pick what you need fresh for each meal, or dehydrate and make your own natural blends of dried herbs.
Chilli (Capsicum spp.) – versatile flavour with a wide range of flavours and varieties. Also, make your own green and red curry pastes.
Onion (Allium cepa) – foundational flavour in so many dishes. Can be dried and stored.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale) – very medicinal and packs a punch of flavour. You can grow an amazing amount in a tub or container, too.
Garlic (Allium sativum) – staple culinary flavour! You can grow a bunch and dry to use throughout the year, or grow perennial forms of garlic flavour with garlic chives or society garlic flowers (Tulbaghia violacea)! for a year-round source of garlic in the garden.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) – a fragrant addition to many dishes and teas!
Turmeric (Curcuma longa) – both medicinal and culinary uses. Like ginger, turmeric can be grown in small gardens and containers. freeze or make a dried powder to use throughout the year.
Spring onion (Allium fistulosum) – easy to grow and just cut at the base, and they regrow! Such an easy swap to make! Sprinkle plants or seeds throughout your garden to fill the gaps.
Grow Medicinal Plants
Grow natural remedies for common ailments. Many medicinal plants have multiple functions in a garden, including medicinal, culinary, pollinator and wildlife habitat.
Skip the microplastic tea bags and grow your own herbal teas.
Lemongrass Cymbopogon citratus) – easy to use and full of flavour. Simply tie a bunch of leaves in a knot and add to hot water.
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) – I love lemon balm in teas and infused into a lemon and honey drink. Lemon balm has calming properties.
Mint(Mentha spp.) – strong flavour and an insane amount of types of mint, such as apple mint, orange, ginger, and chocolate – just remember this is one you really want to keep contained away from your garden.
Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa) – the calyces make a vibrant, tart and cranberry-like flavoured tea or drink. mix with honey for sweetness. packed full of vitamin C. They can also be used to make jams, syrups and chutney.
Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) or Cinnamon Myrtle (Backhousia myrtifolia) – Are Australian natives that are full of flavour.
Holy basil (tulsi) (Ocimum tenuiflorum)– a great natural sleepy tea or anti-anxiety tea for a relaxing evening brew.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)– full of flavour and immune qualities for a health-boosting tea
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) – sweet, fragrant tea herb with pineapple scent and flavour. The red flavours are popular with small birds or great for flavour and garnish.
Start Building Your Homegrown Supermarket
Growing your own food and boosting your homegrown food security does not have to happen all at once. Actually…The most sustainable gardens usually grow slowly over time. Start with a few staple plants that you already use in your kitchen, herbs for flavour, leafy greens for salads, or a fruit tree for snacks and expand from there.
One of the biggest benefits of growing your own groceries is freshness and no nasty chemicals! Fruit and vegetables picked straight from the garden are often sweeter, more nutritious, and far more flavourful than produce that has travelled long distances to reach the supermarket. You also gain the peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly how your food was grown.
For gardeners in warm climates like mine in Western Australia, many of these plants thrive with very little input once established. Hardy staples such as sweet potato, pigeon pea, mulberry, lemongrass, and arrowroot can produce food, mulch, and soil improvement all at the same time. Over time, these plants start to form the foundation of a productive backyard ecosystem. Food security does not mean growing absolutely everything yourself. It simply means bringing more of your food supply closer to home. Every herb you harvest, every fruit you pick, and every staple crop you grow reduces your reliance on supermarket supply chains.
Start with one plant, then another, and before long, you may find that your backyard begins to feel less like a garden and more like a small, living supermarket.
In hot climates, heat isn’t the only thing stressing your garden – create windbreaks to reduce heat stress and protect your garden this summer. Here in my Perth garden, summer not only brings disgustingly hot temperatures (40+ degree club) but it also brings HOT WINDS to double the heat stress. Wind pulls more moisture from leaves, dries soil faster than the sun ever could, and turns hot days into survival mode for plants. Even a “mild” breeze can double water loss in summer, which means wilting, leaf scorch, poor fruiting, and stressed soil life! Most summer gardening advice focuses on sun and water…But in hot climates, windbreaks and shade are key! If you’re gardening in heat, windbreaks are one of the most underrated tools for building a resilient, productive summer garden.
Why Wind Is So Damaging in Hot Climates
In summer, plants are already working hard to stay cool. They regulate temperature by releasing water through their leaves (transpiration). Wind forces this process to speed up. Creating windbreaks for heat stress will help your gardens survive a hot summer!
The result: Faster moisture loss from leaves, increased evaporation from soil, reduced humidity around plants, and greater demand on root systems. This creates compound stress: Heat stress + wind stress means plants end up burnt and crispy faster! That’s why a garden can fail in summer even when you’re watering well.
What a Windbreak Actually Does for Heat Stress
A windbreak doesn’t stop wind completely…instead, it slows and filters airflow, creating a calmer environment for plants to thrive. By reducing the speed of the wind, it lowers evaporation from both soil and leaves, helping your garden retain moisture more effectively. Young plants and fruit trees benefit particularly, as they are less stressed and more likely to grow strong. Even partial wind protection can reduce wind speed by 30–50%, producing a noticeable improvement in plant health and water retention throughout the garden.
Where Windbreaks Matter Most in Hot Summer Gardens
Front yards and newly established gardens tend to be hit hardest because they’re often open on multiple sides, with little existing shelter. This creates a funnel effect and increases the speed of the winds. Exposed sites and sandy soils make the problem worse, as moisture is already quick to drain, and wind accelerates drying even further.
Here in my garden the the western and south-western sides of the garden are usually the most vulnerable. This is where hot afternoon winds arrive, compounding heat stress at the exact moment plants are already struggling to cope. Summer winds tend to be predictable, so it is important to work out which direction your garden is getting hit with. You may live near the coast and have a strong afternoon sea breeze or swirling winds from nearby buildings.
Also, some plants just really hate wind more than others! Trees like avocado, banana, tamarillo, papaya, and even young citrus really do not like wind. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, stems snap or bend under pressure, and growth often stalls despite good soil and regular watering. In windy conditions, these trees may survive, but they rarely thrive or are productive. Tall Banana leaves can get shredded, and that causes a huge reduction in photosynthesis – resulting in smaller banana racks or none at all….
How to Create Effective Windbreaks to Reduce Heat Stress in the Garden
The most successful windbreaks don’t try to block wind completely. Instead, they slow it down, filter it, and soften its impact. Solid walls or fences often create swirling winds, sending fast-moving air over the top and around the edges. A good windbreak works with airflow, not against it.
In summer gardens, wind protection usually falls into three categories: living windbreaks, temporary windbreaks, and permanent structures. Many gardens use a combination of all three, especially while new plantings are establishing.
I prefer to use living windbreaks in the garden, but while I’m waiting for these to establish, I set up temporary relief around more vulnerable plants such as Avocados.
Living Windbreaks: The Most Effective Long-Term Solution
Living windbreaks are the ultimate goal for long-term sustainable gardens inhot climates.Because they’re permeable, they reduce wind speed gradually rather than deflecting it harshly, creating calmer, more stable growing conditions – which we like! And so will your plants.
Well-chosen and placed plants also provide multiple benefits beyond wind protection — shade, organic matter for chop & drop, habitat for beneficial insects, and often food. Having plants that have multiple uses and benefits will skyrocket your garden’s success!
Good options for hot climates include pigeon pea, moringa, pomegranate, mulberry, feijoa, katuk, queensland arrowroot, natives, and clumping bamboo (always clumping, never running). These plants handle heat well and respond positively to pruning, making them easy to shape over time. Some, like the Mulberry and Pomegranate, are deciduous, so they will let light in during winter. If you want wind protection or privacy screening all year round, go for an evergreen tree such as Feijoa or Pigeon pea.
I have recently planted a bunch or queensland arrowroot and pigeon pea around the western sides of my raised garden beds. These will grow fast to offer protection from the hot afternoon sun. Helping not only shade the annula veggie patch but also reduce the sides of the garden beds from heating up.
The key to success is layering. A mix of heights and leaf textures filters wind far more gently than a single solid hedge. Taller trees slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and ground-level plants protect soil from drying out. As a bonus, living windbreaks improve the overall resilience and productivity of the garden as they mature. If you don’t need them during a season, then you can cut them back to let light in or increase airflow during the wet season. Essentially, growing a windbreak and your own mulch or fertiliser.
Plants That Make the Best Living Windbreaks and more!
A living windbreak doesn’t just slow wind, it can also feed your garden, protect your soil, and improve the microclimate. Choosing plants with multiple benefits ensures your windbreak contributes to long-term garden productivity.
Perennial Options
Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for chop-and-drop mulch, summer shade.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera) – Edible leaves, mulch, deep roots for soil stabilisation, drought-tolerant.
Mulberry (Morus spp.) – Fruit for humans and wildlife, deciduous (lets light in winter), dense foliage for wind filtering.
Corn (Zea mays) – Tall seasonal buffer, biomass for mulch, edible stalks and cobs.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) – Tall leafy annual, edible leaves and seeds, provides shelter for smaller plants.
Using Native Plants for Hardier Windbreaks
Native plants are often underappreciatedin hot, windy gardens. Because they’ve evolved in local climates, many are naturally hardy, drought-tolerant, and well-adapted to cope with constant airflow. Their sturdy, scrubbing growth habit makes them particularly effective as living windbreaks, creating dense layers of protection without requiring excessive maintenance.
Using native trees and shrubs can also boost biodiversity, providing habitat and food for local birds, insects, and beneficial wildlife. Many species are evergreen, giving year-round wind protection. By selecting a mix of heights, textures, and flowering times, you can build a multi-functional windbreak that slows wind, stabilizes soil, and adds so much value to the garden, as well as creating windbreaks for heat stress! I plan to have a row growing along my verge to act as a buffer from the road, not only providing wind breaks but also plenty of food for the pollinators.
Some examples of hardy native windbreak plants for hot climates include:
Acacia spp. – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for screening.
Callistemon / Bottlebrush – Dense, flowering shrubs that tolerate heat and wind.
Leptospermum spp. (Tea tree) – Tough shrubs or small trees, wind- and drought-hardy.
Eucalyptus spp. (small varieties) – Provide taller screening with minimal water once established.
By integrating natives into your windbreak design, you not only protect your more delicate plants but also create a resilient, self-sustaining garden ecosystem. In combination with perennials, annuals, and temporary barriers, natives make wind protection both effective and beautiful.
Temporary Windbreaks: When You Need Protection Fast
Not every garden has the luxury of time. New plantings, heatwaves, or exposed sites often need immediate protection while permanent solutions are slowly establishing. Temporary windbreaks are not always the most aesthetic…. but they can dramatically reduce stress in a very short time.
Shade cloth at 30–50% allows airflow while slowing wind speed.
Mesh fencing and trellises act as effective filters, especially when combined with climbing plants.
Tall, fast-growing seasonal crops like corn, sunflowers, or sorghum can also act as living wind buffers during the hottest months.
These short-term solutions are flexible and forgiving. They can be adjusted, moved, or removed as conditions change, and often become part of a longer-term windbreak strategy rather than a wasted effort.
Permanent Structures: Supporting the System
Fences, walls, sheds, and pergolas can all form part of a broader windbreak system to reduce heat stress when combined with planting. On their own, solid structures tend to create wind tunnels and pressure points, but softened with plants or placed strategically, they help redirect and slow airflow across the garden. Planting vertical climbers can not only reduce the speed of the wind but also help cool it down. Passionfruit is a great heat-tolerant climber that can help soften permanent structures, or try grapes for a deciduous option.
The most resilient summer gardens rarely rely on a single solution. Instead, they build layers of protection over time, starting with temporary measures and evolving toward living windbreaks that grow more effective with each season.
Plants That Struggle in Hot Windy Gardens
Some plants simply don’t cope well with high winds. Wind can tear leaves, stress stems, accelerate water loss, and stunt growth in these species. Knowing which plants are vulnerable helps you place them wisely and protect them with windbreaks.
Avocado (Persea americana) – Large, soft leaves and shallow roots make it prone to leaf damage and windburn.
Banana (Musa spp.) – Tall, flexible stems and wide leaves shred easily, resulting in poor growth and production. They also topple over easily.
Tamarillo / Tree Tomato (Solanum betaceum) – Fragile stems and leaves are easily damaged, affecting fruit production.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – Tall, thin stems with large leaves are highly susceptible to wind stress.
Young citrus (especially lemon, lime, and mandarin) – Small branches can snap, flowers drop, and young trees struggle in constant wind.
Soft-leafed subtropicals – Any tender, large-leafed plant benefits from partial wind protection until established.
Maximising Your Windbreak to Reduce Heat Stress
The key to a resilient windbreak for heat stress is layering plants of different heights and growth habits. Tall trees or fast-growing perennials slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and annuals or low-growing perennials fill in gaps and protect soil. Combining food, mulch, and nitrogen-fixing plants ensures your windbreak contributes to soil fertility, provides food, and stabilises the microclimate for your main crops. Even a small suburban garden can benefit from a multi-layered, multifunctional windbreak, giving you calm, protected spaces, improved yields, and less stress in a hot climate!
If your garden struggles every summer, you’re not alone! Trying to protect your garden from Heat in a hot climate, especially in places like Perth… is tough! The sun is so harsh, and summer seems to drag on forever! The soil dries out faster, and plants need backup systems to survive. But it doesn’t have to be a struggle… I want to share everything I’ve learned from growing in a hot climate like Perth, and what I wish I had done sooner….to help keep your garden thriving through a hot summer!
Start Your Garden with Hardy, Heat-Tolerant Plants
A resilient summer garden starts with strong foundations. Hardy plants give structure, create shade, and protect more sensitive species as your garden matures. Think of them as your garden’s framework. This is a garden design strategy I have used since starting my edible gardens, and now that I have more established trees, I have started adding in the more sensitive tropicals. Begin by creating the growth structure from heat-tolerant plants that support everything else. Plant these in hot spots near driveways or to protect your garden from the hot afternoon sun.
Use hardy trees and shrubs on the outer edges, such as:
These plants work as windbreaks, reduce evaporation, cool the garden, and help create microclimates. I focus on planting these in hot spots near driveways or bordering the areas that get hot afternoon sun. Then bring in deciduous trees (like stone fruit) closer to your annual garden beds to provide your patch with much-needed shade in summer but let the sunlight in during winter. And don’t forget perennials!
Grow Living Shade!The Best Way to Keep Your Garden Cool
Fast-growing “living shade” is honestly a game-changer to easily protect your garden from heat… even if it’s temporary. Use quick growers to create a shady “umbrella-like” canopy by planting things like:
Moringa
Papaya
Pigeon pea,
Cassava
Banana
Mulberry
These plants grow fast, create dappled shade, and cool the entire garden. They also act as temporary “nurse plants” for your fruit trees. These don’t need to be permanent. You can utilise them for a few years while your main trees grow, then take cuttings, save seeds and chop and drop them to create mulch and organic fertiliser. I have grown mulberries from a cutting, and after a few years of harvesting fruit and utilising the shade, I have removed them to give my other trees the space they need.
Mulching & Groundcoversto Protect Your Garden from Heat
Something I have learned from gardening in sandy soil is the importance of continuously adding fibre and nutrients to my soil. If you’re in a dry, hot climate like me here in Perth, growing mulch plants could save your garden! Use living mulches like sweet potato, pumpkin, New Zealand spinach, and Nasturtium to protect bare soil and suppress weeds. Mulching doesn’t just help retain moisture…It also protects the shallow feeder roots of fruit trees from getting hot and cooked! And the bonus… mulch breaks down into compost, feeding soil microbes and improving soil structure over time.
Add Vertical Gardens
Adding vertical structures like trellises, arches, and fences for climbers (passionfruit, beans, grapes, cucumbers) creates natural shade for the garden beds underneath. Creating micro-shade pockets. Plan your layout to off the best shade for your garden. Growing edible climbers that are deciduous can be a great way to create summer shade, but let the light in during winter when they lose their leaves. I have grape vines growing over my raised garden beds to add summer protection from the heat, produce delicious crops and also allow winter sun to reach my garden.
Watering Strategies for Extreme Heat
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly — not because they’re not watered enough. Water deeply and less often. Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant. Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly…. not because they’re not watered enough.
✔️ Water deeply and less often- Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant.
✔️ Cover your soil – whether that is with mulch, ground covers/living mulch or even better, a combination of both! This will help retain moisture and keep the soil alive.
✔️ Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
✔️ Best times to water: early morning (best) or late afternoon (second best). Avoid midday watering — 80% of the water evaporates, and water on the leaves can burn your plants.
✔️ Sandy soils can also drain water fast and can easily become hydrophobic. It is important to add fibre by increasing the organic matter. This can be done by adding compost, manure, chop and drop and mulching.
High-Density & Succession Planting to Create Microclimates
This is honestly one of my biggest summer survival strategies…High-density planting helps shade the soil, reduce evaporation, minimise hot wind, and create cooler microclimates. Plants actually protect each other… more foliage means more shade and less moisture loss.
Annuals – Fill gaps quickly with fast growers like basil, bush beans, or herbs.
Perennials – Use mulch plants, nitrogen fixers, low shrubs, tall canopy plants, hardy fruit trees, and ground covers to fill all the gaps.
Succession planting fruit trees is a concept I dabbled in early on, but I wish I had gone harder! Planting from seed and cuttings will allow you to plant more and utilise high-density without the fear of deleting them later down the track. High-density doesn’t mean overcrowding… it means layering, timing, and letting plants work together… instead of cooking alone. They don’t ALL need to be permanent…some can be “nurse trees” until your “main fruit trees” are established.
What to Do Before a Heatwave Hits
When a heatwave is in the forecast, a little preparation can make the difference between a thriving garden and a fried one. These quick actions help your plants stay hydrated, cool, and protected during extreme temperatures — and they take less than an hour to set up.
Water deeply the night before – Give your plants a long, slow soak so the water reaches deep into the root zone. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and keeps plants stable through the hottest part of the day.
Add temporary shade cloth – A simple 30–50% shade cloth over garden beds, young fruit trees, or tender plants such as avocados and young tropicals can prevent sunburn and drastically reduce heat stress and wind damage. Even a beach umbrella or an old sheet works (allow airflow).
Move pots into shade or under cover – Potted plants heat up far quicker than plants in the ground. Move them against a cool wall, under a patio, or beneath a tree canopy to protect their roots from overheating.
Mulch any exposed soil – Bare soil is the fastest to dry out and heat up. Add a thick layer of mulch around fruit trees, garden beds, and seedlings to keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation.
Water deeply early in the morning – Give your plants a long, slow soak at sunrise. This allows the water to move deep into the soil before the sun becomes intense. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and helps your plants stay hydrated throughout the day.
Grow and Chop-and-Drop Your Own Mulch
I think one of the best ways to protect your garden from heat is to grow your own mulch. It not only offers shade when you need it, but you also get to chop it back to create your own organic mulch or fertiliser. This will help feed your soil and, in turn, improve the water retention! a WIN-WIN. When your garden produces its own leafy biomass, you have a constant supply of materials that cool the soil, protect roots, and feed the microbes that build long-term resilience. It’s a system that works with your climate instead of against it.
Great chop-and-drop plants for hot climates include:
Pigeon pea – fast-growing, drought-tolerant, nitrogen-fixing
Queensland Arrowroot – Repopulates fast with water-filled stems
Moringa – rapid growth and abundant leafy material
Lemongrass – dense, fibrous clumps that suppress weeds
Cassava – hardy, productive, and perfect for biomass
Mexican sunflower (Tithonia) – one of the fastest biomass producers
These plants bounce back quickly after pruning and thrive even in harsh conditions. Each layer protects the roots from harsh sun, reduces water loss, and breaks down into organic matter that improves soil structure over time. It’s the most sustainable long-term strategy for gardeners in hot, dry climates.
🌱 Want a deeper guide to mulch plants, chop-and-drop strategies, and soil-building techniques?
You’ll love my ebookHow to Grow Your Own Natural Fertiliser, where I break down exactly how to select, grow, and use mulch plants to create a self-feeding, low-maintenance garden. It’s packed with practical tips specifically for hot climates and sandy soils.
If you want to fill your garden with fresh food this spring/summer season but don’t have much room…these annual edible climbers are the best for vertical gardening in spring! I don’t know about you, but I always feel like I need more gardening space… BUT incorporating vertical plants into your veggie patch or garden can not only maximise the amount of food you can grow but also help shade and protect your garden. I love growing perennial or long-term climbers as they grow to produce more and more fruit each year without having to replant them but…. It’s also fun to have room to mix it up and try different annual climbers each year.
These fast-growing, productive climbing plants make the most of vertical garden space and can transform fences, trellises, and arches into lush, edible walls. Ideal for spring and summer planting, annual climbers are perfect for renters, small gardens, and food forests needing seasonal coverage and abundant harvest. Check out my top tips and plant list below and start growing more food in the same amount of space!
Annual vs Perennial Climbers? Which are better for Vertical Gardens?
I love growing a mix of both! I will share more about perennial climbers at the end of this post. Annual climbers grow for a season, produce food, and then die off. This means you can use the space to grow different things each season, or usually over two growing periods: summer crops and winter crops. Annual vertical climbers are great for….
Fast Results: Most are quick to establish and produce within one season.
Perfect for Temporary Gardens: Great for renters or testing garden layouts.
Seasonal Versatility: Easily rotated out each year to suit changing garden needs.
Creates Shade: Can provide temporary dappled shade for young fruit trees or veggie beds.
Increasing Pollinators & Biodiversity: Lush greenery, flowers, and harvests attract pollinators during the busy Spring & Summer season.
Ways to Support Your Vertical Climbers
Climbers need something to climb, and it’s best to have this installed before you get busy planting your seeds and seedlings. That way, you don’t risk stepping on them or snapping off stems. Below are some of my favourite ways to create trellis and support for my vertical gardens.
Vertical Pre-made Trellises: You can buy panels of pre-made wood or metal lattice or mesh frames. These can either be scrwed to existing fences or supports or add in your own. Star pickets or bamboo poles are often an easy and cost-effective way to go.
A-Frame or Teepee Supports: These are great for a quick and easy vertical garden. They also add interest to a flat space. Bamboo, stakes, branches, or recycled materials can be tied together to create a strong Aframe support. My mum adds an old bicycle tyre to a support post and ties string lines from the tyre to pegs in the ground . It doesn’t need to be fancy as long as it is strong and secure, the plants will cover the structure and look lush in no time!
Fences & Arches: I love archways in the garden as they give space to grow vertically, plus the added experience of walking under them is a little magical. Premade archways are a quick solution, but are often expensive. DIY arch ways can be made from metal cattle panels, timber trelis, branches, or recycled wood, even PVC piping over metal stakes. Chicken mesh, Rio mesh, or fencing mesh can be used to create small vertical supports for one side of your raised bed. This way, you can grow lower plants in the front of the bed and climbers up the back to maximise growing space.
Nets or Strings: Soccer nets or other string-construction nets can be a great DIY idea. Cheap and flexible, great for beans or light vines.
Ensure your structure is strong enough to support mature vines and fruit weight. The great thing about lightweight DIY structures is that they can be used for a season and packed away. This gives you flexibility each season to design your garden. As opposed to perennial climbers, they do better on more permanent structures.
Top 15 Annual Edible Climbers to Grow in Spring/Summer
These plants are either true annuals or fast-growing tropicals, often grown as annuals in warm climates. Check out the links to find more info on how to grow, harvest, and preserve.
Luffa (Loofah Gourd) (Luffa aegyptiaca / L. acutangula) – edible when young and makes natural sponges.
Bottle Gourd (Lagenaria siceraria) – versatile vegetable, produces a lot of food! A vigorous growing vine that is perfect for creating summer shade
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) – classic favourite with refreshing fruit for summer salads or pickling.
Tromboncino (Climbing Zucchini) – long fruits, mildew-resistant, great summer for creating shade.
Winged Bean (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus) – edible pods and leaves, great shade plant. Thrives in hot, humid conditions.
Malabar Spinach (Basella alba / rubra) – succulent-like leafy green for warm climates.
Climbing Beans (Purple, Green, Borlotti, etc.) – great for A-frames and Teepee structures.
Chayote/Choko (Sechium edule) – vigorous, edible fruit and shoots. Hardy summer shade plant. It can be perennial in warmer climates.
Cucamelon / Mouse Melon (Melothria scabra) Tiny, cucumber-like fruits with a tangy, citrusy flavor. Fun snacking plant for kids and great in salads or pickled.
Pumpkin / Squash (Cucurbita spp.) Fruits for roasting and soups. Young shoots, flowers, and even leaves are edible.
Climbing Tomatoes (Indeterminate Varieties) – support needed, but highly productive.
Melons (Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Watermelon) – may need individual support slings for the fruit to stop them from dropping when ripe and smashing.
Mini Pumpkins or Gourds – great for a smaller trellis and very ornamental.
Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) – Fast-growing vine with edible roots (tubers), tender young leaves, and shoots. A dual-purpose plant that provides staple carbohydrates and leafy greens through summer.
When to Sow and Planting Tips
Start Seeds Early: Direct sow after frost, or start indoors if needed. Plants that flower and then produce fruit such as melons, pumpkins, and gourds, need the full spring and summer season to grow, flower, and mature their fruit. Plant these in late winter or early spring. If you are likely to get cold snaps or frosts, start them indoors or in a greenhouse until the last frost has cleared.
Get structures installed: Make sure your structures are in place and sturdy before planting out your seeds and seedlings.
Feed the Soil: Mix compost and organic fertiliser into the soil before planting. Quick-growing annual plants require plenty of food and energy to grow.
Mulch: Retains moisture and keeps roots cool during the warmer months.
Train Early: Gently guide vines to supports while young.
Prune Lightly: Remove tangled or unhealthy vines to maintain airflow and access. As they grow, prune off leaves that are in the first 30cm of the soil. This helps reduce bacteria from splashing up onto the plant. Prune old or dead leaves throughout the growing period to increase airflow and reduce wasted energy.
Support fruit: Some large fruits, like pumpkins and melons, may need extra support. Hammock-style nets or string can help take some of the weight off and reduce the chance of the fruit dropping to the ground.
Want More Long-term Vertical Gardening Ideas?
Annual climbing vines are an incredible way to grow more food in less space, add beauty to your garden, and have fun experimenting with new crops each year! I always make room for annual climbers in my raised beds and kitchen garden. I also love perennial climbers for more long-term vertical food and summer shade. Although more permanent, these grow back each year to provide more and more food. Incorporating a mix of both annual and perennial climbers into your garden will help you grow massive amounts of food whilst still having the flexibility and space to try new varieties and plants each year.
Simple, Spray-Free Solutions for Veggie Garden Pest Problems
Just when you think the garden is looking good, the bugs show up in force! I often get asked why the bugs don’t eat my veggie garden, but the reality is they definitely do! If they weren’t, I’d be more worried! Because if the bugs aren’t eating your veggie plants, it means your garden isn’t part of the ecosystem. A few nibbles here and there are normal. Even a good sign that your garden is healthy, alive,and balanced. But.. when pests start taking more than their share, these easy & natural solutions will help you control bugs in your veggie garden.
TopTips for Controlling Bugs in the Veggie Garden
These tips are just second nature to me now, and combined, they reduce the pests in my veggie garden. Allowing me to harvest more of my food without any harmful chemicals or sprays. Each year, this helps improve the strength and resilience of my garden and results in less work for me. I hope these simple solutions help you grow more of your own food at home naturally and sustainably.
Remove the lower leaves
This helps stop slugs, snails, and other crawlers from getting easy access. I check my raised beds every few days. Pick off the lower leaves, both good and the sad, bug-bitten leaves. This allows more light (bugs like slugs and snails love dark, shady, wet spots) and reduces the amount of natural “ladders” up to your veggies. You can always clean off and use your holey veggie leaves to make a delicious, nourishing green soup or garden pesto.
Outplant the pests
This is probably my top tip and my favourite one! If bugs are hitting one patch hard, I just plant more! and randomly… I always interplant different things, so I’m not offering up a buffet of their favourite foods. The idea is to overwhelm the pests with too much choice and increase your chances of getting a harvest. It works especially well with fast-growing seeds like radishes, asian greens, and lettuce. Saving your own seeds is a great way to have more than enough to go around. So you aren’t so precious about using too many seeds or relying on the 6 seedlings you have purchased.
Sprinkle used coffee grounds
Many bugs hate crawling over gritty textures. I’ve been collecting used coffee grounds from my local cafe for years. By sprinkling them around the base of plants and even fully over young seedlings, I found my losses greatly reduced! It works really well to protect young seedlings from getting ring-barked by slaters/roly-poly, too! It’s free, reduces waste, and adds organic matter too!
Keep your plants well-fed
Healthy plants recover faster from pest attacks and are less likely to get smashed. Top up with liquid compost, worm castings, or even just a light mulch of compost to keep your plants thriving.
Relax and let a few “sacrificial” plants go
Sometimes the best defence is distraction! If a few plants just keep getting hit, I let them go and leave them as sacrificial plants. These often allow good predator bugs like Ladybugs or even birds to come visit the patch. The bugs often will focus on plants that have already been eaten…keeping them off your other healthy plants. It’s a simple way to work with nature and keep the peace in the patch.
Diversity makes it harder for the bugs
I focus on encouraging diversity in all my gardens. I do not plant the same thing all in one bed because if the bugs show up in my veggie garden and decide they like that plant… I’ve just made an easy-access all-you-can-eat buffet for them! Spreading them throughout different gardens makes it harder for the bugs and results in more food for me! Interplanting strong plants such as onion, chives, garlic, or leeks also helps confuse and ward off the bugs. Spreading plants out also reduces the nutritional depletion in the soil, as each plant takes different nutrients from varying depths due to their root growth and nutritional needs.
Control Bugs in the Veggie Garden Naturally
Dealing with bugs in the garden doesn’t have to mean reaching for harsh sprays or quick fixes. With a few simple, natural strategies, you can keep pests under control while still supporting a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your veggie patch. Caring for your soil’s health and your own at the same time.
I hope these tips help you feel more confident tackling any winter pest problems in your own garden! And remember, bug-bitten veggies are totally normal and even a sign that your garden is alive and thriving!
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If you’ve ever thought… “I wish I had more space to grow fruit,” This one’s for you! I’ve squeezed over 200+ types of fruit and edible plants into my suburban block… and while this may sound a bit crazy and not for everyone 😂 There are a few key tricks I’ve learnt along the way I want to share to help you grow a wider variety of fruit in a small space 🍊🍑🍓 Below are my top 5 tips to grow more fruit in less space..that actually work!
Top 5 Ways to Maximise Fruit in a Small Garden or Urban Space
Grow Fruit Trees in Pots
Pots make it possible to grow fruit trees almost anywhere.. balconies, patios, rental properties, awkward spaces, driveways. Choose dwarf or compact varieties, and you can move them to catch the sun or protect them in winter. Bonus: Potted trees are naturally dwarfed, so less maintenance and pruning.
Use Vertical Space
Increase the number of varieties by growing vertical fruits. Train passionfruit vines along fences, grow berries on trellises, or espalier apples along walls. Vertical growing = more fruit with less garden bed space used.
Try Multi-Grafted Trees
One tree, multiple fruits! Grafted trees can grow many varieties on a single trunk. You can purchase these as fruit salad trees or learn to graft and do it yourself! Each family type can usually be grafted together eg: stonefruit like peach, apricot, plum, nectarine can all go on one tree (except cherries must go with cherries) or citrus mixes. Great for variety, especially in limited space.
Plant High-Density Style
You probably know by now this is something I practice in my gardens… but there is method to my madness. Fruit trees don’t need to be spaced as far apart as you think. You can either have x2 fruit trees “correctly spaced” or x4 closer together. This means you will need to prune them smaller, resulting in less fruit on each tree, but more trees means more variety AND may extend your fruit season. I don’t need 1000 oranges, I’m happy with 20 😄 This works best by combining dwarf fruit trees and #5 👇
Succession + Seasonal Layers
Grow fast fruiting crops like Cape Gooseberry, Papaya, Tamarillo, and Bananas between slower ones. You’ll get harvests while your trees are still establishing. It’s all about planning for layers and timing. Then, after a few years, once your main fruit trees, say Avocado or Mango, start taking up the space, you can cut the short-lived crops out to make space.
Start Small and Grow in Less Space
You don’t need a huge property to enjoy an abundant, homegrown harvest. Even a small courtyard, rental garden, or suburban backyard has the potential to grow a diverse mix of fruit when planned strategically. Start with just one or two of these tips, like adding a potted citrus or training a passionfruit vine, and see how much more you can grow. With each season, you’ll learn more about your microclimate, sun patterns, and fruit tree behaviour, which will help you maximise your space even further. Over the years, I have edited many of my fruit trees by removing ones I don’t enjoy as much as I thought I would. I have even created multi-grafted fruit trees to then remove one of them to make room for a new tree…But I still get to enjoy the same fruit just on one tree.
Your Backyard Fruit Jungle Starts Here
Urban gardening isn’t about sacrificing abundance; it’s about designing smart, layered systems that work with the space you have. By thinking vertically, embracing container gardening, and planting with both time and growth habits in mind, you can enjoy a steady harvest of fresh fruit almost year-round.
If you’ve ever juiced a bunch of lemons and felt a twinge of guilt tossing out those beautiful yellow peels, this one’s for you. These lemon zest sprinkles are a vibrant, aromatic way to get even more out of your citrus and add a burst of flavour to your meals. As a home gardener and low-waste kitchen enthusiast, I’m always looking for ways to use every part of what I grow or harvest. Lemon zest is one of my favourite zero-waste flavour boosters, and these dehydrated lemon sprinkles are a must-have in my pantry.
Not only does this recipe help reduce food waste, but it’s also a great way to preserve the bright taste of citrus for use all year round, especially when your lemon tree is loaded and you’re making juice in batches.
Sustainable, Simple, and Full of Flavour
✔️ Uses up leftover lemon skins after juicing
✔️ Easy to make with just one ingredient
✔️ Stores well and lasts for months
✔️ Adds fresh, zesty flavour to sweet and savoury dishes
✔️ A perfect DIY pantry staple for low-waste living
How to Use Lemon Zest Sprinkles
This citrusy powder is so versatile! Here are a few of my favourite ways to use it:
It also makes a beautiful homemade gift when packaged in a recycled spice jar with a handwritten label!
What You’ll Need
3–4 lemon skins (or more if you’re batch prepping)
A dehydrator or oven
A spice grinder, food processor, or Nutribullet
Clean, dry jar for storage
Tip: Use organic lemons or those from your own garden to avoid wax and pesticides.
How to Make Lemon Zest Sprinkles
Step 1: Wash and Peel After juicing your lemons, give the skins a quick rinse. Carefully peel or slice off the outer yellow part of the skin. Try to avoid too much of the bitter white pith.
Step 2: Dehydrate Lay the peels on a tray in your dehydrator or on a baking tray in the oven. Dry at around 45°C (113°F) for 2–4 hours, or until the peels are crisp and snap easily.
Step 3: Blend Once completely dry, add the peels to your spice grinder or blender. Blitz until they turn into a fine powder.
Step 4: Store Transfer to a clean jar—this is a great use for old spice jars or small glass jars with tight lids. Store in a cool, dark place.
Lemon Zest Sprinkles
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 3 hours2 seconds
Total Time: 3 hours5 minutes2 seconds
If you have used lemons for juicing then this is a great way to get the most out of your lemons.
Ingredients
3-4 Lemon skins
Instructions
Wash and peel or carefully slice off thin pieces of the lemon skins. Use organic lemons or fresh from the tree.
Layout the skins on a tray and dehydrate using a dehydrator or oven at 45degrees for 2-4 hours until completely dry.
Add the dry peels to a spice blender, food processor, or Nutribullet and blitz to a fine powder.
Place in a jar. I save my spice jars to recycle for future homemade spices such as this.
Notes
Add to sugar for a lemon sugar or add to your dishes for a fresh zesty flavour. Great in salad dressings, stirfry or even on top of ice-cream or yoghurt.
Low-Waste Kitchen Tip
After using the zest, the remaining lemon peel (especially the pith and leftover pulp) doesn’t have to go to waste. Here are two great options:
Compost it: Citrus adds acidity to your compost and breaks down well when chopped.
Make citrus cleaner: Soak the leftover peels in a jar of vinegar for 2–3 weeks to make a natural, homemade all-purpose cleaner. Strain and store in a spray bottle.
This lemon zest sprinkle recipe is a beautiful example of how simple, low-waste habits can add flavour and sustainability to your kitchen. It’s one of those small swaps that turns scraps into something useful, aromatic, and delicious. Next time you juice a few lemons, don’t toss those peels, dry them, blend them, and sprinkle some sunshine on your next dish.
