If your garden struggles every summer, you’re not alone! Trying to protect your garden from Heat in a hot climate, especially in places like Perth… is tough! The sun is so harsh, and summer seems to drag on forever! The soil dries out faster, and plants need backup systems to survive. But it doesn’t have to be a struggle… I want to share everything I’ve learned from growing in a hot climate like Perth, and what I wish I had done sooner….to help keep your garden thriving through a hot summer!
Start Your Garden with Hardy, Heat-Tolerant Plants
A resilient summer garden starts with strong foundations. Hardy plants give structure, create shade, and protect more sensitive species as your garden matures. Think of them as your garden’s framework. This is a garden design strategy I have used since starting my edible gardens, and now that I have more established trees, I have started adding in the more sensitive tropicals. Begin by creating the growth structure from heat-tolerant plants that support everything else. Plant these in hot spots near driveways or to protect your garden from the hot afternoon sun.
Use hardy trees and shrubs on the outer edges, such as:
These plants work as windbreaks, reduce evaporation, cool the garden, and help create microclimates. I focus on planting these in hot spots near driveways or bordering the areas that get hot afternoon sun. Then bring in deciduous trees (like stone fruit) closer to your annual garden beds to provide your patch with much-needed shade in summer but let the sunlight in during winter. And don’t forget perennials!
Grow Living Shade!The Best Way to Keep Your Garden Cool
Fast-growing “living shade” is honestly a game-changer to easily protect your garden from heat… even if it’s temporary. Use quick growers to create a shady “umbrella-like” canopy by planting things like:
Moringa
Papaya
Pigeon pea,
Cassava
Banana
Mulberry
These plants grow fast, create dappled shade, and cool the entire garden. They also act as temporary “nurse plants” for your fruit trees. These don’t need to be permanent. You can utilise them for a few years while your main trees grow, then take cuttings, save seeds and chop and drop them to create mulch and organic fertiliser. I have grown mulberries from a cutting, and after a few years of harvesting fruit and utilising the shade, I have removed them to give my other trees the space they need.
Mulching & Groundcoversto Protect Your Garden from Heat
Something I have learned from gardening in sandy soil is the importance of continuously adding fibre and nutrients to my soil. If you’re in a dry, hot climate like me here in Perth, growing mulch plants could save your garden! Use living mulches like sweet potato, pumpkin, New Zealand spinach, and Nasturtium to protect bare soil and suppress weeds. Mulching doesn’t just help retain moisture…It also protects the shallow feeder roots of fruit trees from getting hot and cooked! And the bonus… mulch breaks down into compost, feeding soil microbes and improving soil structure over time.
Add Vertical Gardens
Adding vertical structures like trellises, arches, and fences for climbers (passionfruit, beans, grapes, cucumbers) creates natural shade for the garden beds underneath. Creating micro-shade pockets. Plan your layout to off the best shade for your garden. Growing edible climbers that are deciduous can be a great way to create summer shade, but let the light in during winter when they lose their leaves. I have grape vines growing over my raised garden beds to add summer protection from the heat, produce delicious crops and also allow winter sun to reach my garden.
Watering Strategies for Extreme Heat
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly — not because they’re not watered enough. Water deeply and less often. Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant. Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
Most plants die in heatwaves because they’re watered incorrectly…. not because they’re not watered enough.
✔️ Water deeply and less often- Deep watering encourages deep roots, which makes plants far more heat-tolerant.
✔️ Cover your soil – whether that is with mulch, ground covers/living mulch or even better, a combination of both! This will help retain moisture and keep the soil alive.
✔️ Consistency is also important. Long periods without water can cause the soil life to die, and the soil will become hydrophobic. Think of your soil as alive (it is) and that you are watering to feed the microbes, not just the plants. Happy, healthy soil will reward you with happy and healthy plants!
✔️ Best times to water: early morning (best) or late afternoon (second best). Avoid midday watering — 80% of the water evaporates, and water on the leaves can burn your plants.
✔️ Sandy soils can also drain water fast and can easily become hydrophobic. It is important to add fibre by increasing the organic matter. This can be done by adding compost, manure, chop and drop and mulching.
High-Density & Succession Planting to Create Microclimates
This is honestly one of my biggest summer survival strategies…High-density planting helps shade the soil, reduce evaporation, minimise hot wind, and create cooler microclimates. Plants actually protect each other… more foliage means more shade and less moisture loss.
Annuals – Fill gaps quickly with fast growers like basil, bush beans, or herbs.
Perennials – Use mulch plants, nitrogen fixers, low shrubs, tall canopy plants, hardy fruit trees, and ground covers to fill all the gaps.
Succession planting fruit trees is a concept I dabbled in early on, but I wish I had gone harder! Planting from seed and cuttings will allow you to plant more and utilise high-density without the fear of deleting them later down the track. High-density doesn’t mean overcrowding… it means layering, timing, and letting plants work together… instead of cooking alone. They don’t ALL need to be permanent…some can be “nurse trees” until your “main fruit trees” are established.
What to Do Before a Heatwave Hits
When a heatwave is in the forecast, a little preparation can make the difference between a thriving garden and a fried one. These quick actions help your plants stay hydrated, cool, and protected during extreme temperatures — and they take less than an hour to set up.
Water deeply the night before – Give your plants a long, slow soak so the water reaches deep into the root zone. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and keeps plants stable through the hottest part of the day.
Add temporary shade cloth – A simple 30–50% shade cloth over garden beds, young fruit trees, or tender plants such as avocados and young tropicals can prevent sunburn and drastically reduce heat stress and wind damage. Even a beach umbrella or an old sheet works (allow airflow).
Move pots into shade or under cover – Potted plants heat up far quicker than plants in the ground. Move them against a cool wall, under a patio, or beneath a tree canopy to protect their roots from overheating.
Mulch any exposed soil – Bare soil is the fastest to dry out and heat up. Add a thick layer of mulch around fruit trees, garden beds, and seedlings to keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation.
Water deeply early in the morning – Give your plants a long, slow soak at sunrise. This allows the water to move deep into the soil before the sun becomes intense. Moist soil holds temperature better than dry soil and helps your plants stay hydrated throughout the day.
Grow and Chop-and-Drop Your Own Mulch
I think one of the best ways to protect your garden from heat is to grow your own mulch. It not only offers shade when you need it, but you also get to chop it back to create your own organic mulch or fertiliser. This will help feed your soil and, in turn, improve the water retention! a WIN-WIN. When your garden produces its own leafy biomass, you have a constant supply of materials that cool the soil, protect roots, and feed the microbes that build long-term resilience. It’s a system that works with your climate instead of against it.
Great chop-and-drop plants for hot climates include:
Pigeon pea – fast-growing, drought-tolerant, nitrogen-fixing
Queensland Arrowroot – Repopulates fast with water-filled stems
Moringa – rapid growth and abundant leafy material
Lemongrass – dense, fibrous clumps that suppress weeds
Cassava – hardy, productive, and perfect for biomass
Mexican sunflower (Tithonia) – one of the fastest biomass producers
These plants bounce back quickly after pruning and thrive even in harsh conditions. Each layer protects the roots from harsh sun, reduces water loss, and breaks down into organic matter that improves soil structure over time. It’s the most sustainable long-term strategy for gardeners in hot, dry climates.
🌱 Want a deeper guide to mulch plants, chop-and-drop strategies, and soil-building techniques?
You’ll love my ebookHow to Grow Your Own Natural Fertiliser, where I break down exactly how to select, grow, and use mulch plants to create a self-feeding, low-maintenance garden. It’s packed with practical tips specifically for hot climates and sandy soils.
If you want to fill your garden with fresh food this spring/summer season but don’t have much room…these annual edible climbers are the best for vertical gardening in spring! I don’t know about you, but I always feel like I need more gardening space… BUT incorporating vertical plants into your veggie patch or garden can not only maximise the amount of food you can grow but also help shade and protect your garden. I love growing perennial or long-term climbers as they grow to produce more and more fruit each year without having to replant them but…. It’s also fun to have room to mix it up and try different annual climbers each year.
These fast-growing, productive climbing plants make the most of vertical garden space and can transform fences, trellises, and arches into lush, edible walls. Ideal for spring and summer planting, annual climbers are perfect for renters, small gardens, and food forests needing seasonal coverage and abundant harvest. Check out my top tips and plant list below and start growing more food in the same amount of space!
Annual vs Perennial Climbers? Which are better for Vertical Gardens?
I love growing a mix of both! I will share more about perennial climbers at the end of this post. Annual climbers grow for a season, produce food, and then die off. This means you can use the space to grow different things each season, or usually over two growing periods: summer crops and winter crops. Annual vertical climbers are great for….
Fast Results: Most are quick to establish and produce within one season.
Perfect for Temporary Gardens: Great for renters or testing garden layouts.
Seasonal Versatility: Easily rotated out each year to suit changing garden needs.
Creates Shade: Can provide temporary dappled shade for young fruit trees or veggie beds.
Increasing Pollinators & Biodiversity: Lush greenery, flowers, and harvests attract pollinators during the busy Spring & Summer season.
Ways to Support Your Vertical Climbers
Climbers need something to climb, and it’s best to have this installed before you get busy planting your seeds and seedlings. That way, you don’t risk stepping on them or snapping off stems. Below are some of my favourite ways to create trellis and support for my vertical gardens.
Vertical Pre-made Trellises: You can buy panels of pre-made wood or metal lattice or mesh frames. These can either be scrwed to existing fences or supports or add in your own. Star pickets or bamboo poles are often an easy and cost-effective way to go.
A-Frame or Teepee Supports: These are great for a quick and easy vertical garden. They also add interest to a flat space. Bamboo, stakes, branches, or recycled materials can be tied together to create a strong Aframe support. My mum adds an old bicycle tyre to a support post and ties string lines from the tyre to pegs in the ground . It doesn’t need to be fancy as long as it is strong and secure, the plants will cover the structure and look lush in no time!
Fences & Arches: I love archways in the garden as they give space to grow vertically, plus the added experience of walking under them is a little magical. Premade archways are a quick solution, but are often expensive. DIY arch ways can be made from metal cattle panels, timber trelis, branches, or recycled wood, even PVC piping over metal stakes. Chicken mesh, Rio mesh, or fencing mesh can be used to create small vertical supports for one side of your raised bed. This way, you can grow lower plants in the front of the bed and climbers up the back to maximise growing space.
Nets or Strings: Soccer nets or other string-construction nets can be a great DIY idea. Cheap and flexible, great for beans or light vines.
Ensure your structure is strong enough to support mature vines and fruit weight. The great thing about lightweight DIY structures is that they can be used for a season and packed away. This gives you flexibility each season to design your garden. As opposed to perennial climbers, they do better on more permanent structures.
Top 15 Annual Edible Climbers to Grow in Spring/Summer
These plants are either true annuals or fast-growing tropicals, often grown as annuals in warm climates. Check out the links to find more info on how to grow, harvest, and preserve.
Luffa (Loofah Gourd) (Luffa aegyptiaca / L. acutangula) – edible when young and makes natural sponges.
Bottle Gourd (Lagenaria siceraria) – versatile vegetable, produces a lot of food! A vigorous growing vine that is perfect for creating summer shade
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) – classic favourite with refreshing fruit for summer salads or pickling.
Tromboncino (Climbing Zucchini) – long fruits, mildew-resistant, great summer for creating shade.
Winged Bean (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus) – edible pods and leaves, great shade plant. Thrives in hot, humid conditions.
Malabar Spinach (Basella alba / rubra) – succulent-like leafy green for warm climates.
Climbing Beans (Purple, Green, Borlotti, etc.) – great for A-frames and Teepee structures.
Chayote/Choko (Sechium edule) – vigorous, edible fruit and shoots. Hardy summer shade plant. It can be perennial in warmer climates.
Cucamelon / Mouse Melon (Melothria scabra) Tiny, cucumber-like fruits with a tangy, citrusy flavor. Fun snacking plant for kids and great in salads or pickled.
Pumpkin / Squash (Cucurbita spp.) Fruits for roasting and soups. Young shoots, flowers, and even leaves are edible.
Climbing Tomatoes (Indeterminate Varieties) – support needed, but highly productive.
Melons (Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Watermelon) – may need individual support slings for the fruit to stop them from dropping when ripe and smashing.
Mini Pumpkins or Gourds – great for a smaller trellis and very ornamental.
Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) – Fast-growing vine with edible roots (tubers), tender young leaves, and shoots. A dual-purpose plant that provides staple carbohydrates and leafy greens through summer.
When to Sow and Planting Tips
Start Seeds Early: Direct sow after frost, or start indoors if needed. Plants that flower and then produce fruit such as melons, pumpkins, and gourds, need the full spring and summer season to grow, flower, and mature their fruit. Plant these in late winter or early spring. If you are likely to get cold snaps or frosts, start them indoors or in a greenhouse until the last frost has cleared.
Get structures installed: Make sure your structures are in place and sturdy before planting out your seeds and seedlings.
Feed the Soil: Mix compost and organic fertiliser into the soil before planting. Quick-growing annual plants require plenty of food and energy to grow.
Mulch: Retains moisture and keeps roots cool during the warmer months.
Train Early: Gently guide vines to supports while young.
Prune Lightly: Remove tangled or unhealthy vines to maintain airflow and access. As they grow, prune off leaves that are in the first 30cm of the soil. This helps reduce bacteria from splashing up onto the plant. Prune old or dead leaves throughout the growing period to increase airflow and reduce wasted energy.
Support fruit: Some large fruits, like pumpkins and melons, may need extra support. Hammock-style nets or string can help take some of the weight off and reduce the chance of the fruit dropping to the ground.
Want More Long-term Vertical Gardening Ideas?
Annual climbing vines are an incredible way to grow more food in less space, add beauty to your garden, and have fun experimenting with new crops each year! I always make room for annual climbers in my raised beds and kitchen garden. I also love perennial climbers for more long-term vertical food and summer shade. Although more permanent, these grow back each year to provide more and more food. Incorporating a mix of both annual and perennial climbers into your garden will help you grow massive amounts of food whilst still having the flexibility and space to try new varieties and plants each year.
Simple, Spray-Free Solutions for Veggie Garden Pest Problems
Just when you think the garden is looking good, the bugs show up in force! I often get asked why the bugs don’t eat my veggie garden, but the reality is they definitely do! If they weren’t, I’d be more worried! Because if the bugs aren’t eating your veggie plants, it means your garden isn’t part of the ecosystem. A few nibbles here and there are normal. Even a good sign that your garden is healthy, alive,and balanced. But.. when pests start taking more than their share, these easy & natural solutions will help you control bugs in your veggie garden.
TopTips for Controlling Bugs in the Veggie Garden
These tips are just second nature to me now, and combined, they reduce the pests in my veggie garden. Allowing me to harvest more of my food without any harmful chemicals or sprays. Each year, this helps improve the strength and resilience of my garden and results in less work for me. I hope these simple solutions help you grow more of your own food at home naturally and sustainably.
Remove the lower leaves
This helps stop slugs, snails, and other crawlers from getting easy access. I check my raised beds every few days. Pick off the lower leaves, both good and the sad, bug-bitten leaves. This allows more light (bugs like slugs and snails love dark, shady, wet spots) and reduces the amount of natural “ladders” up to your veggies. You can always clean off and use your holey veggie leaves to make a delicious, nourishing green soup or garden pesto.
Outplant the pests
This is probably my top tip and my favourite one! If bugs are hitting one patch hard, I just plant more! and randomly… I always interplant different things, so I’m not offering up a buffet of their favourite foods. The idea is to overwhelm the pests with too much choice and increase your chances of getting a harvest. It works especially well with fast-growing seeds like radishes, asian greens, and lettuce. Saving your own seeds is a great way to have more than enough to go around. So you aren’t so precious about using too many seeds or relying on the 6 seedlings you have purchased.
Sprinkle used coffee grounds
Many bugs hate crawling over gritty textures. I’ve been collecting used coffee grounds from my local cafe for years. By sprinkling them around the base of plants and even fully over young seedlings, I found my losses greatly reduced! It works really well to protect young seedlings from getting ring-barked by slaters/roly-poly, too! It’s free, reduces waste, and adds organic matter too!
Keep your plants well-fed
Healthy plants recover faster from pest attacks and are less likely to get smashed. Top up with liquid compost, worm castings, or even just a light mulch of compost to keep your plants thriving.
Relax and let a few “sacrificial” plants go
Sometimes the best defence is distraction! If a few plants just keep getting hit, I let them go and leave them as sacrificial plants. These often allow good predator bugs like Ladybugs or even birds to come visit the patch. The bugs often will focus on plants that have already been eaten…keeping them off your other healthy plants. It’s a simple way to work with nature and keep the peace in the patch.
Diversity makes it harder for the bugs
I focus on encouraging diversity in all my gardens. I do not plant the same thing all in one bed because if the bugs show up in my veggie garden and decide they like that plant… I’ve just made an easy-access all-you-can-eat buffet for them! Spreading them throughout different gardens makes it harder for the bugs and results in more food for me! Interplanting strong plants such as onion, chives, garlic, or leeks also helps confuse and ward off the bugs. Spreading plants out also reduces the nutritional depletion in the soil, as each plant takes different nutrients from varying depths due to their root growth and nutritional needs.
Control Bugs in the Veggie Garden Naturally
Dealing with bugs in the garden doesn’t have to mean reaching for harsh sprays or quick fixes. With a few simple, natural strategies, you can keep pests under control while still supporting a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your veggie patch. Caring for your soil’s health and your own at the same time.
I hope these tips help you feel more confident tackling any winter pest problems in your own garden! And remember, bug-bitten veggies are totally normal and even a sign that your garden is alive and thriving!
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If you’ve ever thought… “I wish I had more space to grow fruit,” This one’s for you! I’ve squeezed over 200+ types of fruit and edible plants into my suburban block… and while this may sound a bit crazy and not for everyone 😂 There are a few key tricks I’ve learnt along the way I want to share to help you grow a wider variety of fruit in a small space 🍊🍑🍓 Below are my top 5 tips to grow more fruit in less space..that actually work!
Top 5 Ways to Maximise Fruit in a Small Garden or Urban Space
Grow Fruit Trees in Pots
Pots make it possible to grow fruit trees almost anywhere.. balconies, patios, rental properties, awkward spaces, driveways. Choose dwarf or compact varieties, and you can move them to catch the sun or protect them in winter. Bonus: Potted trees are naturally dwarfed, so less maintenance and pruning.
Use Vertical Space
Increase the number of varieties by growing vertical fruits. Train passionfruit vines along fences, grow berries on trellises, or espalier apples along walls. Vertical growing = more fruit with less garden bed space used.
Try Multi-Grafted Trees
One tree, multiple fruits! Grafted trees can grow many varieties on a single trunk. You can purchase these as fruit salad trees or learn to graft and do it yourself! Each family type can usually be grafted together eg: stonefruit like peach, apricot, plum, nectarine can all go on one tree (except cherries must go with cherries) or citrus mixes. Great for variety, especially in limited space.
Plant High-Density Style
You probably know by now this is something I practice in my gardens… but there is method to my madness. Fruit trees don’t need to be spaced as far apart as you think. You can either have x2 fruit trees “correctly spaced” or x4 closer together. This means you will need to prune them smaller, resulting in less fruit on each tree, but more trees means more variety AND may extend your fruit season. I don’t need 1000 oranges, I’m happy with 20 😄 This works best by combining dwarf fruit trees and #5 👇
Succession + Seasonal Layers
Grow fast fruiting crops like Cape Gooseberry, Papaya, Tamarillo, and Bananas between slower ones. You’ll get harvests while your trees are still establishing. It’s all about planning for layers and timing. Then, after a few years, once your main fruit trees, say Avocado or Mango, start taking up the space, you can cut the short-lived crops out to make space.
Start Small and Grow in Less Space
You don’t need a huge property to enjoy an abundant, homegrown harvest. Even a small courtyard, rental garden, or suburban backyard has the potential to grow a diverse mix of fruit when planned strategically. Start with just one or two of these tips, like adding a potted citrus or training a passionfruit vine, and see how much more you can grow. With each season, you’ll learn more about your microclimate, sun patterns, and fruit tree behaviour, which will help you maximise your space even further. Over the years, I have edited many of my fruit trees by removing ones I don’t enjoy as much as I thought I would. I have even created multi-grafted fruit trees to then remove one of them to make room for a new tree…But I still get to enjoy the same fruit just on one tree.
Your Backyard Fruit Jungle Starts Here
Urban gardening isn’t about sacrificing abundance; it’s about designing smart, layered systems that work with the space you have. By thinking vertically, embracing container gardening, and planting with both time and growth habits in mind, you can enjoy a steady harvest of fresh fruit almost year-round.
Welcome to my urban food forest garden in Perth, Australia. It’s currently the end of autumn, the mornings are finally starting to feel cooler, but we still haven’t had much rain….not since last year before the summer, so the garden is just hanging in there. Today, I want to share an update on my urban food forest progress and the wide range of fruit I’m growing in a small space!
🎥 Watch the full Urban Food Forest Garden Tour
Starting a Productive Urban Food Forest on Less Than 1/5 Acre
My garden is high-density, featuring over 200 types of fruit trees, as well as herbs and annual vegetables, all within a property of less than 1/5 of an acre in total. My goal is to have small amounts of many different types of fruit and be able to harvest fruit 365 days a year. This means I’ve said goodbye to spacing rules, utilised dwarf fruit trees, vertical gardening, learnt to multi-graft, and I keep my trees pruned to not only let light in but also create more green material to chop and drop and feed my soil.
I first became inspired by this style of gardening after creating an edible fence screen using food forest style planting in my backyard, which we will take a look at soon, but more recently, I have taken over the front! If you have been a regular YouTube subscriber, you would have seen the process of how we have transformed my front yard from a bare lawn to a mini high-density food forest with lots of tropical fruit trees, raised garden beds to grow annual veggies and a mini wildlife pond home to small fish and frogs. Below is a current update on where we are now!
Tropical Fruits Growing in my Front Yard
I started off this front garden by planting evergreen hardy fruit trees to create an edible screen that could withstand the temperatures out here. I have a lime, feijoa, blood orange, guava, mandarin, more feijoa and a lemonade. I have since gone in and added 3 mangos, an avocado, dwarf grimichama, mulch plants, nitrogen fixing plant and edible ground covers.
I have 4 different custard apples now planted, and I definitely have a passion for collecting new varieties of these. It’s a fruit that was rare back home in NZ, but we could grow the Cherimoya, and I was lucky enough to be introduced to that by a rare fruit grower when I was a kid. Now being in Perth, I am lucky enough to have the heat to grow more varieties, and I have (so far) Africa Pride, Paxton Prolific, Hilary White and a Bullock’s Heart, along with a bunch of seed-grown ones. These tend to lose their leaves a bit in winter, so they let light into my raised bed patch in winter, but in summer, they help keep it cool.
I have two different nashi pears, which are another favourite of mine and fruit well in warmer climates, unlike many other pears.
Some of the other fruit trees I have in the front yard include: Louisa Plum, unknown yellow Plum, multigrafted 4-way Plum (Satsuma, Mariposa, Santa Rosa, unknown), Indian Blood Peach, Lemon Mango, Orange Sherbet Mango, Sweet Tart Mango, Thai Mango, Linda Avocado, Choquette Avocado, Soursop, Starfruit, Lychee and more!
Living Shade: Building a Grape Arbour in Hot Climates
We have also constructed a metal arbour to grow living shade with x4 types of grapes planted. But with such intensely hot and dry summers, the grapes have not done much growing, but I am determined to make my dreams grape arbour happen!
What I’m Growing in my Raised Gardens this Autumn 🌱
I have only just planted out my raised beds (at the end of Autumn) with seedlings and seeds because it’s just been so hot and dry, it didn’t seem worth it. But the cooler mornings and with rain forecast for this weekend, I think we might be ready to start the cool-season crops.
Just like my fruit tree planting, I also densely plant my raised beds. This helps stop any weeds from growing and gives me lush garden beds full of food. Currently, I have planted:
Edible Flowers ( Pansy/viola, Snapdragon, Dianthus and Calendula)
Edible Flowers for Beauty and Biodiversity
Edible flowers are a non-negotiable in my gardens. I love having the added colour as well as providing food for pollinators and beneficial insects. Plus, by choosing edible flowers, you can also use them to brighten up your meals. It’s a win-win.
Wildlife Pond: Attracting Frogs, Pollinators, and Beneficial Insects
The wildlife pond is getting a lot more shade now with the winter sun lower in the sky. The frogs have mostly disappeared as they go to find more sun or hibernate until warmer temperatures. There are still plenty of tadpoles, but I think these will stay like this until spring and summer because I believe they need more sun to transform. The wildlife pond has been one of my favourite projects out here in the front yard. There’s always so much wildlife to see, and it has become the main hub of my gardens to feed and nourish all my pollinators and beneficial insects.
The Driveway Patch: An Urban Food Forest Extension
Now for an update on my driveway patch! This was a new extension, and I have mainly planted deciduous fruit trees in here. This spot gets lots of hot sun during summer, but in winter, it gets a lot of shade. That’s why choosing deciduous fruit trees is a great idea. They go to sleep during winter, so they don’t mind at all.
I have planted a seed, growing papaya, and it is thriving! It has started flowing along with another 5 I have planted throughout the rest of my gardens. Papayas grow well from seed and quickly! In warm climates, you can go from seed to harvesting fruit in just 1 year! In cooler climates, you may have to utilise greenhouses for winter. My plan is that this will get nice and tall to act as a bit of a natural umbrella for summer.
Summer in Perth is relentless, and with many days over 40 degrees, this garden will very much appreciate an umbrella. I have been adding more shade plants like this throughout the garden to try and help cool my summer gardens.
Creating Shade and Microclimates in an Urban Food Forest
Using plants strategically is something I have been doing a lot in my gardens.
Creating shade: I have a miringa planted in the middle of my tropical section to create beautiful dappled shade for my Soursop, Starfruit, Lychee and Avocado. I also have native plants such as Hakea that grow in poor soil and have quickly become the tallest plants in my new garden. They offer shade and wind protection, plus stunning flowers that the bees love.
Creating Mulch:Mulch plants are another thing I have throughout my gardens that I use for shade, wind protection and then I can chop them back to let light in and feed the soil and act as moisture retention. These are plants such as Pigeon Pea and Queensland Arrowroot.
Out the back, my original food forest garden has been getting lots of upgrades. I have just planted another mango, this one is the ‘lemon zest’, I also have the ‘Irwin’ and the ‘dwarf palmer’. My biggest seed-grown papaya is flowering, and I am hanging out to see it start to fruit! With more plants starting to flower, hopefully, I get some pollination happening!
In my last video, we took out the lemon tree that was just getting hammered with gall wasp and planted a giant avocado. It’s already pushing new growth, which is a good sign.
Pomegranates are ripe, and I should have harvested them, but I left it too late, and something else has beaten me to it! This Pomegranate has multiple different varieties grafted on it, but so far, just the main Azerbajani has fruited. These are amazing, like nature’s candy!
My bananas are looking good, and the plantain has shot up! My Pinkerton Avocado is looking nice and bushy, and next to that, another seed-grown papaya that has just started to flower. The rollinia is looking rather sad but has started to push all new growth off the side so fingers crossed! Behind that, we have my golden passionfruit growing vertically along the fence and a small sweet granadilla down below that I am cautiously optimistic about.
In my patio nursery, the shade cloth has come down for winter, and I am trying my best to find homes for as many things as I can in the garden. I want to downsize this a lot! I have lots of seed-grown plants here, like mango and custard apple, that I want to use for grafting practice, plus I have blueberries, finger limes and a lot of other things.
I hope you enjoyed this Autumn update of my urban food forest, and make sure you are subscribed to follow along with the progress!
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Do you want to grow more fruit and utilise vertical space? Then these 17 fruits that grow on vines will help you not only grow more delicious fruit to eat, but by growing vertically, you can save space and create more shade to protect your garden and more delicate plants during the hot months. I’m sharing my favourite fruits that grow on vines – perfect for urban food forests, backyard trellises, and small-space gardens. Whether you’re new to gardening or looking to expand your edible garden vertically, there’s something here for every garden.
If you’re looking to make the most of your vertical space, growing fruit on vines is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to do it. From delicious grapes to exotic, rare passionfruit, there are so many climbing fruits that not only taste amazing but also help create lush, edible walls in your garden.
Why Grow Fruits on Vines?
Vine fruits are great space-savers. They climb up rather than spread out, meaning you can grow more food in less ground space. They’re ideal for small gardens, balconies, or food forests where every layer of the garden is put to work. Plus, many vine fruits are perennial or self-seeding, making them low-maintenance once established. I also love them for fence screening or adding more green to the backyard, with walls of green vines covered in fruit, they are not just productive, they’re beautiful too!
1. Passionfruit
One of my absolute favourite perennial fruiting vines!Passionfruit vines are fast-growing, evergreen in warmer climates, and produce deliciously tangy fruit. They’ll need strong support, plenty of sun, and a bit of pruning to keep them in check. Passionfruit can also be easily grown from seed to fruit in just 1-2 years.
Growing Tips: Plant in well-drained soil with plenty of compost, and water regularly during the growing season. Allow a lot of water during the summer season to allow them to produce abundant crops.
2. Grapes
Whether you’re growing table grapes or wine grapes, these deciduous vines are classic for a reason. Grapes love full sun and rich, well-drained soil. In winter, prune heavily to encourage fruiting in spring and summer. Grapes are great for areas that get full sun in summer but maybe get more shade in winter(because they are asleep). They can also be used to help offer shade to your veggie patch in summer and let light in during winter when they lose their leaves. I have mine planted over my main veggie patch on a strong arbour.
Growing Tips: Prune annually to control growth and increase yield. Provide sturdy support and full sun.
3. Choko (Chayote)
A vigorous vine that’s great for covering fences or pergolas, but must be kept in check with regular pruning. Chokos produce crisp, mild-flavoured fruit that’s incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Great for making preserves or used to bulk up pies as a substitute for apple or potato! They love warmth, regular watering, and space to sprawl. Chokos are a great option for providing summer shade to your garden in areas like Perth that have scorching hot summer days.
Growing Tips: Plant a whole chayote fruit in rich, moist soil and give it something to climb. It loves heat and humidity.
4. Kiwi Fruit
A beautiful deciduous vine with fuzzy fruit packed with vitamin C. Kiwi fruits need a male and female plant to produce fruit, and prefer a cold winter and warm summer. Provide sturdy support, these vines are strong!
Growing Tips: Train along a strong trellis and prune yearly. Kiwi prefers rich, well-drained soil and full sun (although protect during their first year in hot climates like Perth)
5. Cucamelon
These tiny watermelon lookalikes are actually closer to cucumbers. They’re crunchy, a little tangy, and perfect for pickling or snacking. Cucamelons are easy to grow from seed and do best in full sun with something to climb.
Growing Tips: Easy to grow in warm climates with full sun. Trellis them like cucumbers and harvest regularly.
6. Blackberry
While technically a bramble, many blackberry varieties can be trained like vines. Choose thornless varieties for ease of harvest, and plant them along fences or trellises. Great for attracting pollinators too.
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun with rich, well-drained soil. Train along a fence or wire support.
7. Raspberry
Like blackberries, raspberries can be trained vertically. They’ll reward you with handfuls of juicy berries and are surprisingly low-maintenance. Summer or autumn fruiting varieties are available depending on your climate.
8. Kiwi Berry
Kiwi berries are like miniature kiwifruits without the fuzz — bite-sized, smooth-skinned, and bursting with sweet, tropical flavor. These hardy vines are a great option for gardeners in cooler climates, and once established, they’re prolific producers. Unlike regular kiwis, you can pop these straight into your mouth without peeling! The vines are vigorous climbers and benefit from strong support and annual pruning.
Growing Tips: Some Kiwi berries need both a male and female plant for pollination. Plant them in well-drained soil with plenty of sun and compost, and keep them well-watered in dry periods. Patience pays off — they usually start fruiting in their third year, but reward you with loads of delicious fruit for years to come.
9. Giant Granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis)
Giant Granadilla is the largest of the passionfruit family, producing fruit that can grow over a foot long! Its flavour is mild and slightly sweet, with edible pulp that can be eaten fresh, juiced, or added to desserts. One unique feature is that the white inner rind (or pith) is also edible when cooked, often used in stews, curries, or candied as a sweet treat. The plant also produces large, show-stopping flowers, making it both productive and ornamental. It’s ideal for gardeners who want something bold, tropical, and a little bit out of the ordinary. This one is tricky to grow and needs a warm tropical climate or a greenhouse to thrive.
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun and well-draining, compost-rich soil. This vigorous vine needs a very strong support structure and plenty of room to spread. Keep it well-watered during hot weather and feed regularly to support its large fruit. It prefers warm, frost-free climates but can be grown in large containers and moved to shelter if needed. Prune after fruiting to encourage new growth and airflow.
10. Dragonfruit (Pitaya)
A striking cactus vine that needs support and warmth. Great for hot and dry areas of your garden. Dragon fruit plants produce stunning flowers followed by bright pink or yellow fruit with speckled flesh. Perfect for tropical or subtropical gardens. Prune regularly to shape the plant and encourage flowering. With a bit of patience and care, you’ll be rewarded with stunning blooms and unique, nutrient-packed fruit.
Growing Tips: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with well-draining soil. Water deeply but allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings — too much water can lead to rot.
11. Loofah (Luffa)
While often grown for its spongy interior, young loofah fruits are edible when cooked. This vine loves the heat and needs a long growing season. Let a few mature fully for bath sponges and save the rest for dinner!
Growing Tips: Start from seed in spring. Let fruits mature fully on the vine if you want to harvest them as sponges.
12. Pumpkin
Though typically considered a ground crop, pumpkins will happily climb a strong trellis if you support the fruit. This is a great way to save space and get a better shape on the pumpkins too. Growing vertically can help reduce pest pressure and increase airflow. Choose smaller varieties to help reduce the risk of the stems breaking off the vine. Add small hammock supports to the fruit if you think they are too heavy.
Growing Tips: Plant in mounds with compost-rich soil. Allow plenty of space or use a strong vertical support for smaller varieties.
13. Melons (Rockmelon, Cantaloupe, etc.)
Melons can also be trellised to save space and reduce rot. Use slings or mesh bags to support the fruit as it grows. They love full sun, compost-rich soil, and warm temperatures. Melons are a great choice for annual fruits that grow on a vine.
Growing Tips: Choose smaller varieties. Consistent watering during the hot months will help get the best-tasting melons.
14. Muscadine Grapes
Native to the southeastern United States, muscadine grapes are hardy, disease-resistant vines that produce sweet, thick-skinned grapes perfect for fresh eating, jams, and winemaking. These grapes love warm, humid climates and are a great low-maintenance option for edible gardens. I haven’t been able to find any yet in Perth, but when I do, I will definitely be testing them out!
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun with well-drained soil. Muscadines prefer slightly acidic soil and benefit from a yearly layer of compost. Provide a strong trellis or arbor to support their vigorous growth. Prune in winter to encourage productive fruiting wood and good airflow. They’re self-fertile, but planting more than one variety can increase yields.
15. Climbing Tomato (Indeterminate Varieties)
While technically a fruiting shrub, indeterminate tomatoes behave like vines and can be grown vertically with supports. Perfect for patios and small garden beds where space is tight. Plant at the back of your container or garden to and train up whilst still utilising the front for short plants like lettuce and carrots.
Growing Tips: Use stakes, cages, or trellises. Pinch off suckers and prune to improve airflow and production.
16. Kiwano (Horned Melon)
This spiky, alien-looking fruit is sure to turn heads in the garden. Native to Africa, Kiwano grows on a vigorous climbing vine and produces bright orange, horned fruit filled with lime-green, jelly-like flesh. It has a mild, refreshing flavor, somewhere between cucumber, kiwi, and banana — perfect for smoothies or eating chilled with a spoon.
Growing Tips: Plant Kiwano in warm, frost-free conditions with full sun and well-drained soil. Like cucumbers, it appreciates regular watering and trellising. Start seeds indoors or direct sow after the last frost. It thrives in hot climates and is drought-tolerant once established.
17. Cucumber
A garden classic, cucumbers are refreshing, fast-growing vine fruits that are perfect for salads, pickling, and even chilled soups. With so many varieties — from crisp slicing cucumbers to cute pickling types — there’s one for every garden. Cucumbers also make a super nutritious and refreshing juice in summer.
Growing Tips: Plant cucumbers in full sun after the danger of frost has passed. They love warmth, regular watering, and rich, well-draining soil. Train them vertically with a trellis to save space and improve air circulation, which helps prevent powdery mildew. Harvest often to keep plants productive.
Tips for Growing Vine Fruits
Support Structures: Use trellises, arches, pergolas, or fences.
Mulch and Compost: Feed the soil with organic matter to keep your plants thriving.
Water Consistently: especially in dry or windy weather.
Prune as Needed: Keep vines manageable and productive.
Growing Fruit Vertically to Save Space
Growing fruits on vines is such a rewarding way to get more out of your space and your harvest. Whether you’re trailing cucamelons up a balcony rail or letting passionfruit take over a fence, vertical gardening adds beauty, abundance, and a lot more greenery to any garden. So pick one (or a few!) of these climbing fruits and get growing – your future self will thank you for the baskets of delicious fruit!
Maximize Garden Space with Espaliered Fruit Trees
While vine fruits are amazing for vertical gardening, espalier fruit trees are another clever way to grow food in tight spaces. Trained flat against a wall or fence, espaliered trees not only save space but also turn your garden into a living work of art. Apples, pears, figs, and even citrus can be grown this way with a little patience and pruning. They make excellent use of sunlight, are easier to harvest, and can add structure and charm to garden borders or sunny walls. If you’re short on space but big on fruit dreams, espalier might just be your next favorite technique!
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
