In hot climates, heat isn’t the only thing stressing your garden – create windbreaks to reduce heat stress and protect your garden this summer. Here in my Perth garden, summer not only brings disgustingly hot temperatures (40+ degree club) but it also brings HOT WINDS to double the heat stress. Wind pulls more moisture from leaves, dries soil faster than the sun ever could, and turns hot days into survival mode for plants. Even a “mild” breeze can double water loss in summer, which means wilting, leaf scorch, poor fruiting, and stressed soil life! Most summer gardening advice focuses on sun and water…But in hot climates, windbreaks and shade are key! If you’re gardening in heat, windbreaks are one of the most underrated tools for building a resilient, productive summer garden.
Why Wind Is So Damaging in Hot Climates
In summer, plants are already working hard to stay cool. They regulate temperature by releasing water through their leaves (transpiration). Wind forces this process to speed up. Creating windbreaks for heat stress will help your gardens survive a hot summer!
The result: Faster moisture loss from leaves, increased evaporation from soil, reduced humidity around plants, and greater demand on root systems. This creates compound stress: Heat stress + wind stress means plants end up burnt and crispy faster! That’s why a garden can fail in summer even when you’re watering well.
What a Windbreak Actually Does for Heat Stress
A windbreak doesn’t stop wind completely…instead, it slows and filters airflow, creating a calmer environment for plants to thrive. By reducing the speed of the wind, it lowers evaporation from both soil and leaves, helping your garden retain moisture more effectively. Young plants and fruit trees benefit particularly, as they are less stressed and more likely to grow strong. Even partial wind protection can reduce wind speed by 30–50%, producing a noticeable improvement in plant health and water retention throughout the garden.
Where Windbreaks Matter Most in Hot Summer Gardens
Front yards and newly established gardens tend to be hit hardest because they’re often open on multiple sides, with little existing shelter. This creates a funnel effect and increases the speed of the winds. Exposed sites and sandy soils make the problem worse, as moisture is already quick to drain, and wind accelerates drying even further.
Here in my garden the the western and south-western sides of the garden are usually the most vulnerable. This is where hot afternoon winds arrive, compounding heat stress at the exact moment plants are already struggling to cope. Summer winds tend to be predictable, so it is important to work out which direction your garden is getting hit with. You may live near the coast and have a strong afternoon sea breeze or swirling winds from nearby buildings.
Also, some plants just really hate wind more than others! Trees like avocado, banana, tamarillo, papaya, and even young citrus really do not like wind. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, stems snap or bend under pressure, and growth often stalls despite good soil and regular watering. In windy conditions, these trees may survive, but they rarely thrive or are productive. Tall Banana leaves can get shredded, and that causes a huge reduction in photosynthesis – resulting in smaller banana racks or none at all….
How to Create Effective Windbreaks to Reduce Heat Stress in the Garden
The most successful windbreaks don’t try to block wind completely. Instead, they slow it down, filter it, and soften its impact. Solid walls or fences often create swirling winds, sending fast-moving air over the top and around the edges. A good windbreak works with airflow, not against it.
In summer gardens, wind protection usually falls into three categories: living windbreaks, temporary windbreaks, and permanent structures. Many gardens use a combination of all three, especially while new plantings are establishing.
I prefer to use living windbreaks in the garden, but while I’m waiting for these to establish, I set up temporary relief around more vulnerable plants such as Avocados.
Living Windbreaks: The Most Effective Long-Term Solution
Living windbreaks are the ultimate goal for long-term sustainable gardens inhot climates.Because they’re permeable, they reduce wind speed gradually rather than deflecting it harshly, creating calmer, more stable growing conditions – which we like! And so will your plants.
Well-chosen and placed plants also provide multiple benefits beyond wind protection — shade, organic matter for chop & drop, habitat for beneficial insects, and often food. Having plants that have multiple uses and benefits will skyrocket your garden’s success!
Good options for hot climates include pigeon pea, moringa, pomegranate, mulberry, feijoa, katuk, queensland arrowroot, natives, and clumping bamboo (always clumping, never running). These plants handle heat well and respond positively to pruning, making them easy to shape over time. Some, like the Mulberry and Pomegranate, are deciduous, so they will let light in during winter. If you want wind protection or privacy screening all year round, go for an evergreen tree such as Feijoa or Pigeon pea.
I have recently planted a bunch or queensland arrowroot and pigeon pea around the western sides of my raised garden beds. These will grow fast to offer protection from the hot afternoon sun. Helping not only shade the annula veggie patch but also reduce the sides of the garden beds from heating up.
The key to success is layering. A mix of heights and leaf textures filters wind far more gently than a single solid hedge. Taller trees slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and ground-level plants protect soil from drying out. As a bonus, living windbreaks improve the overall resilience and productivity of the garden as they mature. If you don’t need them during a season, then you can cut them back to let light in or increase airflow during the wet season. Essentially, growing a windbreak and your own mulch or fertiliser.
Plants That Make the Best Living Windbreaks and more!
A living windbreak doesn’t just slow wind, it can also feed your garden, protect your soil, and improve the microclimate. Choosing plants with multiple benefits ensures your windbreak contributes to long-term garden productivity.
Perennial Options
Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for chop-and-drop mulch, summer shade.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera) – Edible leaves, mulch, deep roots for soil stabilisation, drought-tolerant.
Mulberry (Morus spp.) – Fruit for humans and wildlife, deciduous (lets light in winter), dense foliage for wind filtering.
Corn (Zea mays) – Tall seasonal buffer, biomass for mulch, edible stalks and cobs.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) – Tall leafy annual, edible leaves and seeds, provides shelter for smaller plants.
Using Native Plants for Hardier Windbreaks
Native plants are often underappreciatedin hot, windy gardens. Because they’ve evolved in local climates, many are naturally hardy, drought-tolerant, and well-adapted to cope with constant airflow. Their sturdy, scrubbing growth habit makes them particularly effective as living windbreaks, creating dense layers of protection without requiring excessive maintenance.
Using native trees and shrubs can also boost biodiversity, providing habitat and food for local birds, insects, and beneficial wildlife. Many species are evergreen, giving year-round wind protection. By selecting a mix of heights, textures, and flowering times, you can build a multi-functional windbreak that slows wind, stabilizes soil, and adds so much value to the garden, as well as creating windbreaks for heat stress! I plan to have a row growing along my verge to act as a buffer from the road, not only providing wind breaks but also plenty of food for the pollinators.
Some examples of hardy native windbreak plants for hot climates include:
Acacia spp. – Nitrogen-fixing, fast-growing, excellent for screening.
Callistemon / Bottlebrush – Dense, flowering shrubs that tolerate heat and wind.
Leptospermum spp. (Tea tree) – Tough shrubs or small trees, wind- and drought-hardy.
Eucalyptus spp. (small varieties) – Provide taller screening with minimal water once established.
By integrating natives into your windbreak design, you not only protect your more delicate plants but also create a resilient, self-sustaining garden ecosystem. In combination with perennials, annuals, and temporary barriers, natives make wind protection both effective and beautiful.
Temporary Windbreaks: When You Need Protection Fast
Not every garden has the luxury of time. New plantings, heatwaves, or exposed sites often need immediate protection while permanent solutions are slowly establishing. Temporary windbreaks are not always the most aesthetic…. but they can dramatically reduce stress in a very short time.
Shade cloth at 30–50% allows airflow while slowing wind speed.
Mesh fencing and trellises act as effective filters, especially when combined with climbing plants.
Tall, fast-growing seasonal crops like corn, sunflowers, or sorghum can also act as living wind buffers during the hottest months.
These short-term solutions are flexible and forgiving. They can be adjusted, moved, or removed as conditions change, and often become part of a longer-term windbreak strategy rather than a wasted effort.
Permanent Structures: Supporting the System
Fences, walls, sheds, and pergolas can all form part of a broader windbreak system to reduce heat stress when combined with planting. On their own, solid structures tend to create wind tunnels and pressure points, but softened with plants or placed strategically, they help redirect and slow airflow across the garden. Planting vertical climbers can not only reduce the speed of the wind but also help cool it down. Passionfruit is a great heat-tolerant climber that can help soften permanent structures, or try grapes for a deciduous option.
The most resilient summer gardens rarely rely on a single solution. Instead, they build layers of protection over time, starting with temporary measures and evolving toward living windbreaks that grow more effective with each season.
Plants That Struggle in Hot Windy Gardens
Some plants simply don’t cope well with high winds. Wind can tear leaves, stress stems, accelerate water loss, and stunt growth in these species. Knowing which plants are vulnerable helps you place them wisely and protect them with windbreaks.
Avocado (Persea americana) – Large, soft leaves and shallow roots make it prone to leaf damage and windburn.
Banana (Musa spp.) – Tall, flexible stems and wide leaves shred easily, resulting in poor growth and production. They also topple over easily.
Tamarillo / Tree Tomato (Solanum betaceum) – Fragile stems and leaves are easily damaged, affecting fruit production.
Papaya (Carica papaya) – Tall, thin stems with large leaves are highly susceptible to wind stress.
Young citrus (especially lemon, lime, and mandarin) – Small branches can snap, flowers drop, and young trees struggle in constant wind.
Soft-leafed subtropicals – Any tender, large-leafed plant benefits from partial wind protection until established.
Maximising Your Windbreak to Reduce Heat Stress
The key to a resilient windbreak for heat stress is layering plants of different heights and growth habits. Tall trees or fast-growing perennials slow high winds, shrubs reduce mid-level airflow, and annuals or low-growing perennials fill in gaps and protect soil. Combining food, mulch, and nitrogen-fixing plants ensures your windbreak contributes to soil fertility, provides food, and stabilises the microclimate for your main crops. Even a small suburban garden can benefit from a multi-layered, multifunctional windbreak, giving you calm, protected spaces, improved yields, and less stress in a hot climate!
Simple, Spray-Free Solutions for Veggie Garden Pest Problems
Just when you think the garden is looking good, the bugs show up in force! I often get asked why the bugs don’t eat my veggie garden, but the reality is they definitely do! If they weren’t, I’d be more worried! Because if the bugs aren’t eating your veggie plants, it means your garden isn’t part of the ecosystem. A few nibbles here and there are normal. Even a good sign that your garden is healthy, alive,and balanced. But.. when pests start taking more than their share, these easy & natural solutions will help you control bugs in your veggie garden.
TopTips for Controlling Bugs in the Veggie Garden
These tips are just second nature to me now, and combined, they reduce the pests in my veggie garden. Allowing me to harvest more of my food without any harmful chemicals or sprays. Each year, this helps improve the strength and resilience of my garden and results in less work for me. I hope these simple solutions help you grow more of your own food at home naturally and sustainably.
Remove the lower leaves
This helps stop slugs, snails, and other crawlers from getting easy access. I check my raised beds every few days. Pick off the lower leaves, both good and the sad, bug-bitten leaves. This allows more light (bugs like slugs and snails love dark, shady, wet spots) and reduces the amount of natural “ladders” up to your veggies. You can always clean off and use your holey veggie leaves to make a delicious, nourishing green soup or garden pesto.
Outplant the pests
This is probably my top tip and my favourite one! If bugs are hitting one patch hard, I just plant more! and randomly… I always interplant different things, so I’m not offering up a buffet of their favourite foods. The idea is to overwhelm the pests with too much choice and increase your chances of getting a harvest. It works especially well with fast-growing seeds like radishes, asian greens, and lettuce. Saving your own seeds is a great way to have more than enough to go around. So you aren’t so precious about using too many seeds or relying on the 6 seedlings you have purchased.
Sprinkle used coffee grounds
Many bugs hate crawling over gritty textures. I’ve been collecting used coffee grounds from my local cafe for years. By sprinkling them around the base of plants and even fully over young seedlings, I found my losses greatly reduced! It works really well to protect young seedlings from getting ring-barked by slaters/roly-poly, too! It’s free, reduces waste, and adds organic matter too!
Keep your plants well-fed
Healthy plants recover faster from pest attacks and are less likely to get smashed. Top up with liquid compost, worm castings, or even just a light mulch of compost to keep your plants thriving.
Relax and let a few “sacrificial” plants go
Sometimes the best defence is distraction! If a few plants just keep getting hit, I let them go and leave them as sacrificial plants. These often allow good predator bugs like Ladybugs or even birds to come visit the patch. The bugs often will focus on plants that have already been eaten…keeping them off your other healthy plants. It’s a simple way to work with nature and keep the peace in the patch.
Diversity makes it harder for the bugs
I focus on encouraging diversity in all my gardens. I do not plant the same thing all in one bed because if the bugs show up in my veggie garden and decide they like that plant… I’ve just made an easy-access all-you-can-eat buffet for them! Spreading them throughout different gardens makes it harder for the bugs and results in more food for me! Interplanting strong plants such as onion, chives, garlic, or leeks also helps confuse and ward off the bugs. Spreading plants out also reduces the nutritional depletion in the soil, as each plant takes different nutrients from varying depths due to their root growth and nutritional needs.
Control Bugs in the Veggie Garden Naturally
Dealing with bugs in the garden doesn’t have to mean reaching for harsh sprays or quick fixes. With a few simple, natural strategies, you can keep pests under control while still supporting a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your veggie patch. Caring for your soil’s health and your own at the same time.
I hope these tips help you feel more confident tackling any winter pest problems in your own garden! And remember, bug-bitten veggies are totally normal and even a sign that your garden is alive and thriving!
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If you’ve ever thought… “I wish I had more space to grow fruit,” This one’s for you! I’ve squeezed over 200+ types of fruit and edible plants into my suburban block… and while this may sound a bit crazy and not for everyone 😂 There are a few key tricks I’ve learnt along the way I want to share to help you grow a wider variety of fruit in a small space 🍊🍑🍓 Below are my top 5 tips to grow more fruit in less space..that actually work!
Top 5 Ways to Maximise Fruit in a Small Garden or Urban Space
Grow Fruit Trees in Pots
Pots make it possible to grow fruit trees almost anywhere.. balconies, patios, rental properties, awkward spaces, driveways. Choose dwarf or compact varieties, and you can move them to catch the sun or protect them in winter. Bonus: Potted trees are naturally dwarfed, so less maintenance and pruning.
Use Vertical Space
Increase the number of varieties by growing vertical fruits. Train passionfruit vines along fences, grow berries on trellises, or espalier apples along walls. Vertical growing = more fruit with less garden bed space used.
Try Multi-Grafted Trees
One tree, multiple fruits! Grafted trees can grow many varieties on a single trunk. You can purchase these as fruit salad trees or learn to graft and do it yourself! Each family type can usually be grafted together eg: stonefruit like peach, apricot, plum, nectarine can all go on one tree (except cherries must go with cherries) or citrus mixes. Great for variety, especially in limited space.
Plant High-Density Style
You probably know by now this is something I practice in my gardens… but there is method to my madness. Fruit trees don’t need to be spaced as far apart as you think. You can either have x2 fruit trees “correctly spaced” or x4 closer together. This means you will need to prune them smaller, resulting in less fruit on each tree, but more trees means more variety AND may extend your fruit season. I don’t need 1000 oranges, I’m happy with 20 😄 This works best by combining dwarf fruit trees and #5 👇
Succession + Seasonal Layers
Grow fast fruiting crops like Cape Gooseberry, Papaya, Tamarillo, and Bananas between slower ones. You’ll get harvests while your trees are still establishing. It’s all about planning for layers and timing. Then, after a few years, once your main fruit trees, say Avocado or Mango, start taking up the space, you can cut the short-lived crops out to make space.
Start Small and Grow in Less Space
You don’t need a huge property to enjoy an abundant, homegrown harvest. Even a small courtyard, rental garden, or suburban backyard has the potential to grow a diverse mix of fruit when planned strategically. Start with just one or two of these tips, like adding a potted citrus or training a passionfruit vine, and see how much more you can grow. With each season, you’ll learn more about your microclimate, sun patterns, and fruit tree behaviour, which will help you maximise your space even further. Over the years, I have edited many of my fruit trees by removing ones I don’t enjoy as much as I thought I would. I have even created multi-grafted fruit trees to then remove one of them to make room for a new tree…But I still get to enjoy the same fruit just on one tree.
Your Backyard Fruit Jungle Starts Here
Urban gardening isn’t about sacrificing abundance; it’s about designing smart, layered systems that work with the space you have. By thinking vertically, embracing container gardening, and planting with both time and growth habits in mind, you can enjoy a steady harvest of fresh fruit almost year-round.
Do you want to grow more fruit and utilise vertical space? Then these 17 fruits that grow on vines will help you not only grow more delicious fruit to eat, but by growing vertically, you can save space and create more shade to protect your garden and more delicate plants during the hot months. I’m sharing my favourite fruits that grow on vines – perfect for urban food forests, backyard trellises, and small-space gardens. Whether you’re new to gardening or looking to expand your edible garden vertically, there’s something here for every garden.
If you’re looking to make the most of your vertical space, growing fruit on vines is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to do it. From delicious grapes to exotic, rare passionfruit, there are so many climbing fruits that not only taste amazing but also help create lush, edible walls in your garden.
Why Grow Fruits on Vines?
Vine fruits are great space-savers. They climb up rather than spread out, meaning you can grow more food in less ground space. They’re ideal for small gardens, balconies, or food forests where every layer of the garden is put to work. Plus, many vine fruits are perennial or self-seeding, making them low-maintenance once established. I also love them for fence screening or adding more green to the backyard, with walls of green vines covered in fruit, they are not just productive, they’re beautiful too!
1. Passionfruit
One of my absolute favourite perennial fruiting vines!Passionfruit vines are fast-growing, evergreen in warmer climates, and produce deliciously tangy fruit. They’ll need strong support, plenty of sun, and a bit of pruning to keep them in check. Passionfruit can also be easily grown from seed to fruit in just 1-2 years.
Growing Tips: Plant in well-drained soil with plenty of compost, and water regularly during the growing season. Allow a lot of water during the summer season to allow them to produce abundant crops.
2. Grapes
Whether you’re growing table grapes or wine grapes, these deciduous vines are classic for a reason. Grapes love full sun and rich, well-drained soil. In winter, prune heavily to encourage fruiting in spring and summer. Grapes are great for areas that get full sun in summer but maybe get more shade in winter(because they are asleep). They can also be used to help offer shade to your veggie patch in summer and let light in during winter when they lose their leaves. I have mine planted over my main veggie patch on a strong arbour.
Growing Tips: Prune annually to control growth and increase yield. Provide sturdy support and full sun.
3. Choko (Chayote)
A vigorous vine that’s great for covering fences or pergolas, but must be kept in check with regular pruning. Chokos produce crisp, mild-flavoured fruit that’s incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Great for making preserves or used to bulk up pies as a substitute for apple or potato! They love warmth, regular watering, and space to sprawl. Chokos are a great option for providing summer shade to your garden in areas like Perth that have scorching hot summer days.
Growing Tips: Plant a whole chayote fruit in rich, moist soil and give it something to climb. It loves heat and humidity.
4. Kiwi Fruit
A beautiful deciduous vine with fuzzy fruit packed with vitamin C. Kiwi fruits need a male and female plant to produce fruit, and prefer a cold winter and warm summer. Provide sturdy support, these vines are strong!
Growing Tips: Train along a strong trellis and prune yearly. Kiwi prefers rich, well-drained soil and full sun (although protect during their first year in hot climates like Perth)
5. Cucamelon
These tiny watermelon lookalikes are actually closer to cucumbers. They’re crunchy, a little tangy, and perfect for pickling or snacking. Cucamelons are easy to grow from seed and do best in full sun with something to climb.
Growing Tips: Easy to grow in warm climates with full sun. Trellis them like cucumbers and harvest regularly.
6. Blackberry
While technically a bramble, many blackberry varieties can be trained like vines. Choose thornless varieties for ease of harvest, and plant them along fences or trellises. Great for attracting pollinators too.
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun with rich, well-drained soil. Train along a fence or wire support.
7. Raspberry
Like blackberries, raspberries can be trained vertically. They’ll reward you with handfuls of juicy berries and are surprisingly low-maintenance. Summer or autumn fruiting varieties are available depending on your climate.
8. Kiwi Berry
Kiwi berries are like miniature kiwifruits without the fuzz — bite-sized, smooth-skinned, and bursting with sweet, tropical flavor. These hardy vines are a great option for gardeners in cooler climates, and once established, they’re prolific producers. Unlike regular kiwis, you can pop these straight into your mouth without peeling! The vines are vigorous climbers and benefit from strong support and annual pruning.
Growing Tips: Some Kiwi berries need both a male and female plant for pollination. Plant them in well-drained soil with plenty of sun and compost, and keep them well-watered in dry periods. Patience pays off — they usually start fruiting in their third year, but reward you with loads of delicious fruit for years to come.
9. Giant Granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis)
Giant Granadilla is the largest of the passionfruit family, producing fruit that can grow over a foot long! Its flavour is mild and slightly sweet, with edible pulp that can be eaten fresh, juiced, or added to desserts. One unique feature is that the white inner rind (or pith) is also edible when cooked, often used in stews, curries, or candied as a sweet treat. The plant also produces large, show-stopping flowers, making it both productive and ornamental. It’s ideal for gardeners who want something bold, tropical, and a little bit out of the ordinary. This one is tricky to grow and needs a warm tropical climate or a greenhouse to thrive.
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun and well-draining, compost-rich soil. This vigorous vine needs a very strong support structure and plenty of room to spread. Keep it well-watered during hot weather and feed regularly to support its large fruit. It prefers warm, frost-free climates but can be grown in large containers and moved to shelter if needed. Prune after fruiting to encourage new growth and airflow.
10. Dragonfruit (Pitaya)
A striking cactus vine that needs support and warmth. Great for hot and dry areas of your garden. Dragon fruit plants produce stunning flowers followed by bright pink or yellow fruit with speckled flesh. Perfect for tropical or subtropical gardens. Prune regularly to shape the plant and encourage flowering. With a bit of patience and care, you’ll be rewarded with stunning blooms and unique, nutrient-packed fruit.
Growing Tips: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with well-draining soil. Water deeply but allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings — too much water can lead to rot.
11. Loofah (Luffa)
While often grown for its spongy interior, young loofah fruits are edible when cooked. This vine loves the heat and needs a long growing season. Let a few mature fully for bath sponges and save the rest for dinner!
Growing Tips: Start from seed in spring. Let fruits mature fully on the vine if you want to harvest them as sponges.
12. Pumpkin
Though typically considered a ground crop, pumpkins will happily climb a strong trellis if you support the fruit. This is a great way to save space and get a better shape on the pumpkins too. Growing vertically can help reduce pest pressure and increase airflow. Choose smaller varieties to help reduce the risk of the stems breaking off the vine. Add small hammock supports to the fruit if you think they are too heavy.
Growing Tips: Plant in mounds with compost-rich soil. Allow plenty of space or use a strong vertical support for smaller varieties.
13. Melons (Rockmelon, Cantaloupe, etc.)
Melons can also be trellised to save space and reduce rot. Use slings or mesh bags to support the fruit as it grows. They love full sun, compost-rich soil, and warm temperatures. Melons are a great choice for annual fruits that grow on a vine.
Growing Tips: Choose smaller varieties. Consistent watering during the hot months will help get the best-tasting melons.
14. Muscadine Grapes
Native to the southeastern United States, muscadine grapes are hardy, disease-resistant vines that produce sweet, thick-skinned grapes perfect for fresh eating, jams, and winemaking. These grapes love warm, humid climates and are a great low-maintenance option for edible gardens. I haven’t been able to find any yet in Perth, but when I do, I will definitely be testing them out!
Growing Tips: Plant in full sun with well-drained soil. Muscadines prefer slightly acidic soil and benefit from a yearly layer of compost. Provide a strong trellis or arbor to support their vigorous growth. Prune in winter to encourage productive fruiting wood and good airflow. They’re self-fertile, but planting more than one variety can increase yields.
15. Climbing Tomato (Indeterminate Varieties)
While technically a fruiting shrub, indeterminate tomatoes behave like vines and can be grown vertically with supports. Perfect for patios and small garden beds where space is tight. Plant at the back of your container or garden to and train up whilst still utilising the front for short plants like lettuce and carrots.
Growing Tips: Use stakes, cages, or trellises. Pinch off suckers and prune to improve airflow and production.
16. Kiwano (Horned Melon)
This spiky, alien-looking fruit is sure to turn heads in the garden. Native to Africa, Kiwano grows on a vigorous climbing vine and produces bright orange, horned fruit filled with lime-green, jelly-like flesh. It has a mild, refreshing flavor, somewhere between cucumber, kiwi, and banana — perfect for smoothies or eating chilled with a spoon.
Growing Tips: Plant Kiwano in warm, frost-free conditions with full sun and well-drained soil. Like cucumbers, it appreciates regular watering and trellising. Start seeds indoors or direct sow after the last frost. It thrives in hot climates and is drought-tolerant once established.
17. Cucumber
A garden classic, cucumbers are refreshing, fast-growing vine fruits that are perfect for salads, pickling, and even chilled soups. With so many varieties — from crisp slicing cucumbers to cute pickling types — there’s one for every garden. Cucumbers also make a super nutritious and refreshing juice in summer.
Growing Tips: Plant cucumbers in full sun after the danger of frost has passed. They love warmth, regular watering, and rich, well-draining soil. Train them vertically with a trellis to save space and improve air circulation, which helps prevent powdery mildew. Harvest often to keep plants productive.
Tips for Growing Vine Fruits
Support Structures: Use trellises, arches, pergolas, or fences.
Mulch and Compost: Feed the soil with organic matter to keep your plants thriving.
Water Consistently: especially in dry or windy weather.
Prune as Needed: Keep vines manageable and productive.
Growing Fruit Vertically to Save Space
Growing fruits on vines is such a rewarding way to get more out of your space and your harvest. Whether you’re trailing cucamelons up a balcony rail or letting passionfruit take over a fence, vertical gardening adds beauty, abundance, and a lot more greenery to any garden. So pick one (or a few!) of these climbing fruits and get growing – your future self will thank you for the baskets of delicious fruit!
Maximize Garden Space with Espaliered Fruit Trees
While vine fruits are amazing for vertical gardening, espalier fruit trees are another clever way to grow food in tight spaces. Trained flat against a wall or fence, espaliered trees not only save space but also turn your garden into a living work of art. Apples, pears, figs, and even citrus can be grown this way with a little patience and pruning. They make excellent use of sunlight, are easier to harvest, and can add structure and charm to garden borders or sunny walls. If you’re short on space but big on fruit dreams, espalier might just be your next favorite technique!
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Edible ground covers are a crucial element in any permaculture or food forest garden. They serve as living mulch, protect and feed the soil, suppress weeds, and give you more food in less space. Whether you’re growing sweet potatoes for stir-fries or nasturtiums for a colorful salad, there are so many ways to make your ground layer both beautiful and functional.
Tired of weeding and bare soil? These low-growing edible plants cover the ground, feed your soil, and you!
By layering your garden with diversity in plant heights, root systems, and edible yields, you’ll create a more balanced, resilient system that supports you and the ecosystem around you. Let your mulch work to feed your soil and your family at the same time!
Welcome back to my garden! Today, we’re diving into edible ground covers that I use in my urban permaculture garden as living mulch. Creating layers in a food forest system helps you grow more diversity (and food) in a small space. Edible ground covers help suppress weeds to create a low-maintenance, sustainable garden that feeds us year-round and doesn’t demand daily upkeep.
We love to go camping, and that means I often leave my garden for days at a time. While I still love growing annuals like tomatoes and cucumbers, they require more hands-on care and come with a higher risk if I’m away. I’ll still grow them, but I want to shift the balance toward a more resilient garden using perennial plants and edible ground covers that do more of the heavy lifting while I’m off exploring.
Watch or read more below
Top 10 Edible Ground Covers for Living Mulch
So, what exactly are edible ground covers? These are low-growing plants that serve multiple functions: they protect the soil, retain moisture, reduce weeds, prevent erosion, and provide food for both humans and beneficial wildlife. In a food forest-style garden, ground covers are just one layer in a multi-tiered system that also includes tall trees, shrubs, flowers, and root crops.
Below are 10 of my favorite edible ground covers that are beautiful, functional, and delicious!
1. Sweet Potato
Sweet potato is hands-down my favorite edible ground cover. Its thick, lush vines protect the soil from the harsh sun and help retain moisture. The leaves are edible and can be used like spinach—sautéed with garlic, tossed in soups and curries, or even made into green wraps. And of course, the roots themselves are a delicious, substantial food source for both sweet and savory dishes. Sweet potatoes are also a haven for beneficial insects and frogs (yes, frogs!). I often find them nesting among the vines, even without a pond nearby. They’re super easy to propagate, making them perfect for sharing, selling, or expanding your patch.
2. Nasturtium
Nasturtiums are another edible ground cover that, once you plant them, you will have forever! Their bright flowers and peppery leaves are both edible and beautiful. I use the leaves in salads and as mini wraps, and the flowers as edible garnishes or pesto ingredients. They self-seed prolifically, meaning once you plant them, they often come back on their own every year. This means they can easily take over parts of your garden, so it’s important to keep them pruned if you want them to remain in one area.
Nasturtiums attract beneficial pollinators and act as a trap crop, luring pests like slugs and snails away from other plants. You can prune back areas to feed to your chickens as a natural pest management system. Even their seed pods are edible—you can pickle them to make homemade capers!
Naturtiums die off during the hot summer months, and so I pair these with sweet potato, which has an opposite growth pattern. Sweet potatoes thrive in summer and die back in the cooler months. These two work well to keep the soil covered all year round.
3. New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides)
New Zealand Spinach is one of my go-to ground covers, especially in warmer weather when traditional leafy greens struggle. It spreads beautifully and creates dense, weed-suppressing coverage. The leaves are succulent and can be eaten cooked, much like regular spinach. It’s drought-tolerant, hardy, and perfect for low-maintenance edible landscaping. Due to its ability to self-seed easily, it can be a good idea to keep it contained.
4. Sweet Violet
Sweet violets (Viola odorata) make a lovely ground cover for shady areas, which become more common as fruit trees mature and cast more shade. They have heart-shaped edible leaves and delicate purple flowers that make beautiful decorations for cakes and salads. While I usually use the flowers more than the leaves, the entire plant helps retain soil moisture and suppress weeds, making it an excellent living mulch.
5. Strawberries
Strawberries are a classic edible ground cover that needs little introduction. They spread easily, especially alpine varieties, and can handle partial shade. While their leaves and flowers are edible, the fruit is the real star. Just note they do better in sunnier patches of your garden.
6. Prostrate Rosemary
This low-trailing form of rosemary hugs the ground and is well-suited to hot, dry, sandy, or rocky soils. It’s evergreen, hardy, and incredibly useful in the kitchen. I love having rosemary nearby to flavor dishes, and the edible flowers are great for attracting bees. It also has a host of medicinal benefits—anti-inflammatory, digestive support, and calming properties.
7. Thyme & Oregano
Thyme and oregano are aromatic culinary herbs that make wonderful low-growing ground covers in sunny areas. Their spreading habit helps protect the soil, and both are drought-tolerant and resilient. These herbs can be used fresh or dried for flavoring food, making teas, and for natural remedies. Their tiny flowers also attract pollinators to your garden.
8. Yarrow
Yarrow is a powerhouse plant often overlooked as an edible. While the leaves can be used in teas or medicinally (always research before consuming), their greatest strengths in the garden are as a soil protector with dense fern-like leaves and a pollinator magnet. It has deep roots that help break up compacted soil and draw nutrients up to the surface, improving fertility over time. It sends runners underground, so it’s a good idea to treat this plant like you would mint and keep it contained to one area.
9. Chamomile
Chamomile creates a fragrant, low-growing cover that’s sometimes used as a lawn substitute. It’s most well-known for its daisy-like flowers, which are harvested for calming teas that support sleep and digestion. It thrives in sunny areas and adds a beautiful, soft texture to garden beds.
10. Red Clover
Red clover is one of those quiet achievers in the garden, it’s beautiful, useful, and so easy to grow. I love using it as a living mulch in my food forest because it grows low to the ground, helps suppress weeds, and is constantly feeding the soil with nitrogen through its roots. The bees absolutely adore the flowers, and if you’re into herbal teas, the blossoms are edible and can be harvested and dried too! It’s the kind of plant that gives so much without asking for much in return—perfect for filling in those bare spots while still being productive and pretty.
Many common weeds are edible and make great opportunistic ground covers. Purslane, for example, has succulent leaves rich in omega-3 fatty acids and grows rapidly to fill bare spots. Chickweed and dandelion also have edible and medicinal parts. While these can spread quickly, learning to identify and harvest them helps you turn a problem into a resource.
Living Mulch: Edible Ground Covers That Feed You and Your Garden
Start small by adding one or two edible ground covers to your garden beds or under fruit trees, and watch how quickly they transform the space. These hardworking plants not only fill gaps and reduce maintenance, but they also invite more life into your garden, as a wildlife habitat. Whether you’re building a full food forest or just looking to get more out of your patch, edible ground covers are one of the simplest ways to grow smarter, not harder.
Are you growing any edible plants as living mulch? Let us know below 👇
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