An edible food forest is a type of food-producing system that mimics nature and creates a low-maintenance edible garden. Food forest systems can be designed and adapted to suit small urban blocks, sloping sections, and large open spaces. The idea of creating a food forest is that you can let it go a little wild and allow nature to create balance. Food forests not only provide an abundance of food, but they also promote biodiversity, sequester carbon, attract wildlife, nurture the soil, and create a beautiful and tranquil place to be.
Watch the workshop
What is a Food Forest?
A food forest is a layered system of gardening that is designed to promote biodiversity and create an ecosystem that feeds off each other through mutually beneficial relationships. A food forest aims to mimic patterns and systems that occur in nature. Although, the food forest gardens we create are definitely not what occurs naturally eg: planting tomatoes with guavas, feijoa, and lettuce. It is more so about creating layers both above the surface with different heights and shapes, as well as below the surface with varying root structures. This way all the plants can get the space they need to thrive, provide nutrients, shade, and shelter to others, and work all together as one big family to grow abundant food supplies.
image credit: Graham Burnett
Why Create a Food Forest Garden?
If you are looking to create a low-maintenance garden that produces food all year round, is lush, tranquil, and attracts birds, bees, and other local wildlife, then a food forest may be the garden for you! Food forests are a great way to grow a huge variety of plants in a single area. The ground covers will smother weeds so there is one less job for you to do! The plants are mainly perennials so this means we don’t need to dig up the soil and replace plants each season. The less we dig up our soil the better as this promotes healthy microorganisms and soil life.
There are certain characteristics of a food forest that allow it to renew and support itself with little external input
Planting Density
It’s important to cover and protect the soil from the harsh sunlight
Planting densely creates a habitat for wildlife
More leaf matter to fall and nourish the soil
More roots to hold the soil together and reduce erosion
More flowers for the bees = more pollination and more food production
Dense planting will reduce the number of unwanted weeds
Having flowers and fruit trees planted close together can increase pollination as the bees and pollinators will be nearby
Growing a wide variety of plants
Planting a wide variety of plants will mean you have fruit, vegetables and flowers ready at all different times of the year
Diversity in plants not only provides you with a wide range of nutrients but also your garden and wildlife
Different root structures will provide the soil microbes with different secretions and reduce the severe depletion of nutrients in the soil. If you have all one crop planted in a single area they use up the same nutrients and the soil can become depleted. Having a wide variety can help keep it balanced.
Plants have different flowers which will attract different pollinators to your garden. Each pollinator will achieve different results for each plant. It’s important not only to have flowers available all year round but also a variety of different kinds.
Self Fertilising
With a variety of layers and heights in your food forest, the plants will drop their leaves and fruit which will act as a mulch and built-in fertiliser.
Some plants may get overgrown or die off (survival of the fittest!) which will also return nutrients to the soil.
From time to time you may need to trim your trees to reduce their height or width. This trimming can be put through a mulcher or cut up and returned back to the garden to feed the plants.
Self Seeding
By letting some plants go to flower and seed you will have new plants popping up each year. This can be an extremely easy way to grow more food for free.
At times fruit trees may grow beneath the canopy from the seeds of rotting fruit. It can be a good idea to move these as they won’t have adequate space to grow. Either, relocate them or pot them up to swap or trade.
How to Start a Food Forest Garden
Step 1: Choose a location and prep the soil
First up, we must decide on an area to start converting into a food forest system. This could be an old veggie patch, the front lawn, along the back fence line, or a large open field. The preparation needed will depend on the condition of the area selected. But in general, you will want to:
Clear any debris or unwanted structures
Remove or smother the grass. This can be done by laying down an old carpet for a few months to kill off all the grass. If the grass is still alive and present it can be hard to maintain. Another way is to use sheets of cardboard, as these will eventually breakdown once the grass has died.
If your location has never been used to grow before, the soil quality may be extremely poor or sandy. It could be a good idea to add a layer of compost or organic manure.
Cover your area in a thick layer of mulch. This will protect the soil and help keep any grasses or unwanted weeds away.
Give the area a good water and feed with a liquid seaweed solution.
Step 2: Selecting a plant list
We want to select plants that:
A: we want to eat and
B: provide benefits to other aspects of our garden (animal feed, mulch, birds, shade, etc).
Below are the 7 layers of the food forest. Write down a wish list of plants for each layer and then you can start mapping out which plants will go where depending on their size, what “layer” they are, and how much light they will need to grow.
7 Layers of a Food Forest
1 Canopy Layer – Large trees that require full sun – fruit and nut trees (Avocado, Chestnut, Mango)
2 Understorey Trees – Dwarf fruit or small trees ( Citrus, Papaya)
3 Perennial Shrubs – Small bushy plants (Berries, Ginger, Arrowroot)
Some plants may fall into multiple categories – Sweet potato is a root crop but also a fantastic ground cover. Ginger is also a root crop but can make a great Perennial shrub layer.
Step 3: Designing
Mapping out a design can be as detailed or as rough as you like. It is important to come up with some kind of plan so that you can decide where to plant your larger trees so that they get enough sunlight. You don’t want to be digging up and moving things around. This should be your master plan not what you are starting with. So go big, add in all things you want so that you can plan for the future and ensure you can room.
How to map out your food forest design
1 Draw the outline of your location or property to scale
2 Add in any permanent structure (sheds, veggie patch, established trees, fences)
3 Map where the sun and shade come from. Mark areas as full sun, part sun, or full shade.
4 Add in your large Canopy trees and allow space for them to grow.
5 Add in your pathways or future large structures (pond, shed, chicken coop)
5 Add in your sub-canopy trees
6 Add in your scrubs, herbaceous layer, root crops, ground cover, and vertical layers.
7 Add seating, a table, or a place for you to view and enjoy your food forest.
Step 4: Planting
To start with you will want to select your large canopy trees and ensure there is enough space for them to grow. The height and width will be noted on the labels. Then you can start adding in your sub-canopy/dwarf trees. Large trees may take years to fully establish so your food forest may not look very ‘foresty’, to begin with. This is a great time to interplant with more annual crops (lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli, etc).
When I first started my back fence line in a food forest system, there were large gaps between the trees. This meant there was a lot more light and space available but I knew that eventually my canopy and sub-canopy trees would grow to fill the space. I used this time to grow seasonal veggies and edible flowers. As well as accumulating and establishing new shrub layers and ground covers.
How to Source Plants for your Food Forest?
Creating a food forest can involve a lot of new plants and the costs will quickly add up. This is where learning how to make cuttings can be extremely valuable. Not only can you reproduce your plants to grow in other areas of the garden but you can also swap, trade, and sell your plants to acquire new ones. Keep an eye out on local pages as you can pick up established trees for cheap or even free! I have managed to get established fruit trees that are already fruiting for less than $20. This can really speed up your food forest production.
Maintaining your Food Forest
The idea of creating your food forest is that it will require less care and attention. This can mean it will look a little wild from time to time (in a good way)
Pruning or trimming back excess trees can be a great way to propagate more or mulch to feed the garden. This can be done once the tree has finished fruiting.
Some trees will need to be staked and secured while they are young so that they don’t snap off.
Propagating plants to establish in other areas – it can take a while for some plants to establish so once they have you can start to reproduce them in other areas.
Harvesting fruit – this is important so that you can reduce the number of unwanted critters (such as rats). Rotting fruit on the ground can also promote fruit fly infestations which you do not want! So ensure all fruit is picked and preserved or composted.
Feeding – It can be beneficial especially in a young food forest to add in extra fertilisers. Try using natural products such as seaweed solution or creating your own from leftover plants and weeds.
Netting or bagging fruit – Depending on your location you may need to net or place net bags on your fruit. Fruit fly, bats, and birds can decimate crops in just a few hours.
Learn how to maximise your edible gardens and grow more food. I don’t follow the rules when it comes to spacing and companion planting. Working with nature to create long-term sustainable gardens.
Masterclass 1: Introduction to Climate, Pathways and Zones
This masterclass we are talking about how to understand your local climate to maximise your growing potential, and discover your Zones, to create ease and flow in your gardening and sustainability routines.
Objectives:
This masterclass will be divided into 3 core sections, each with an actionable task and worksheet that you will be able to complete for your own property.
Get to know your local climate and how that affects your garden and layout.
Identify your pathways. These are the areas of your property you frequent on a daily basis.
Map out yourZones will help you determine where to place elements within your property.
Understanding your local climate is very important for selecting garden locations, plants, care and maintenance. What works for one person, may not work for you depending on your climate and location. Within each climate there are micro-climates and that is specific to your exact location. You may live at the bottom of a mountain, near a stream or closer to the ocean, and these will all have specific and direct effects on your microclimate. It may also be that your neighbour has a large tree, or there are high rise buildings creating shade or directing wind. It is important to get to know your region’s climate and then take note of your location and microclimate. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant it.
To do this we need to do a sector analysis. This will help us determine where our external energies (sun, wind, water, frost and fire) may come from. This can include neighbouring buildings, trees or structures.
Sun
The sun is a major factor when considering where to place your garden. Each plant has a certain amount of sunlight hours it needs to perform and be fruitful. So, understanding which areas of your property get the most sun and shade is so important!
When I first moved to my house, I was so excited to plant fruit trees that I planted a lime tree in the shadiest spot on my property. At the time, it was summer, and it received a lot of sun. But, throughout the rest of the year the neighbours tree shaded it, and I spent the rest of the time trying to keep it alive. After observing my property and analysing my sectors, I transplanted it to a full sun location. Since then, it has thrived and is covered in limes. So, getting this right, will make a massive difference and may save you a lot of time and money in sad trees!
Something that is interesting, and not widely known to beginner gardening, is that the sun tracks lower in the sky over winter (here in our temperate climate). Your “perfect sunny spot” may be short lived. With the sun tracking directly above your property over summer, you will have a lot less shade as the shadows will be short. During winter the sun is significantly lower in the sky, so many other objects will cast long shadows such as trees, fences and buildings. Once you have identified this, it can then be managed and used in your favour.
I cannot stress how important it is to be constantly observing your garden and taking notes. The seasonal Gardening Review Sheets make this easy to document.
Solar panels are another way to capture and store the sun’s energy.
Wind
Wind is another factor that can be difficult to analyse without a long term observation. Winds tend to come in patterns and seasons and some research online of local wind patterns can help you get started with this. Once you have identified this, you may be able to plant trees or shrubs to help break the wind or protect your garden.
Water
When it rains do you notice certain areas that pool water? or do you have creeks or dams on your property? When it rains it can be a great idea to stop and take a look at where the water is flowing or moving to. Noting this down will help you capture and store that energy and decide where to place elements in your design. Eg: if an area is prone to getting boggy, can you divert the water and spread it out to water more plants, or plant water loving trees there and avoid planting trees that hate having wet feet. Water naturally flows by gravity so you can use this to your advantage. Water flowing on your property will also pick up nutrients and top soil and deposit them in lower lying areas. This can help you locate fertile soil for edible gardens.
Frost
If you live in an area that has frosts, next time it happens, take a look around. Are there areas that seem more frosty than others? Dips and hollows can really change the temperature of the air, so you may find some areas of your property are more prone to frost than others.
Fire
Planning for a fire is something that many of us, especially here in Australia, should do when designing our gardens and properties. Identifying where weak points may be or the direction in which fire may travel can help you design to minimise loss. Your local council pages may have more information about creating fire plans.
Other External Forces:
You may have neighbouring noise pollution from a factory, farm or noise from a highway. Bad smells, dust or something visually unappealing. Identifying these will help you come up with design solutions. You may be able to plant dense hedges or place elements such as barns and forests to reduce these before they end up at your property.
Knowledge is Power
Having these energies mapped out, will provide you with the information to make decisions and maximise your results. Having them all down on paper can really help you see the bigger picture. Many problems can be turned into solutions, once they are recognised. You can capture and store these wild energies and turn them into free power using solar or wind turbines.
Next we are going to go over pathways and zones. These two work together, so, to figure out our zones, we must first find our pathways. To start with it will be handy to get an aerial view of your property. This way you can see where north is and how your house and structures sit on your land. You can obtain one from google earth, local council or similar. This will help with your worksheets and drawing out your zones.
I do just want to touch on the term ‘Permaculture’ incase you are not familiar with the term. Permaculture comes from “ permanent agriculture”. Permaculture has a set of ethics and beliefs around creating an integrated system to work with nature. Everything is interconnected to create energy efficiency, ease and flow. It is what guides most of my gardening and lifestyle, so many of my lessons will have connections or links to permaculture practices.
Pathways
To workout your pathways, print out the pathways worksheet and choose 3 days to map your daily routine. Choose 3 days that are a fair representation of how you spend most of your time (eg: if you work 5 days a week, choose those days).
Outline the boundary of your property.
Outline your buildings and key elements (house, rooms, garage, car park, mailbox, compost bin, gardens, barn, chicken coop etc).
Each day draw lines or pathways through your map of where you have visited. Do this for at least 3 days.
This will allow you to see patterns and areas that you visit regularly, verses areas you do not.
What are Zones in Permaculture?
Zones are a way to divide your property into sections of areas that are used frequently, versus those that receive less attention. Determining these zones will allow you to place your gardens, animals and elements in areas that will allow the most ease and flow. Creating ease and flow is so important because, it will make tasks more sustainable long term. The permaculture zones generally start from the house at zone zero and work upwards.
Learning your zones is important for the placement of elements. A kitchen garden is something that is used frequently for daily meals, so should be located closer to the home than for example, an orchard. An orchard can be harvested from when fruit is ripe, and in batches, so it can be placed in a zone further away from the house. Chickens will need to be fed and cared for daily, so they are another element that should be placed in a zone close by. The placement of systems that work together should also be considered. For example, if you throw a lot of your old vegetables or weeds in the compost or to the chickens, then these systems should be near each other or on the way to each other, for ease and flow.
The secret to getting started with identifying your zones, is found in your daily routine.
We are creatures of habit, so it can be useful to map your current routines and track which areas of your property you frequent often. I have created a worksheet to help you map your pathways. Once you have these mapped out you can start creating your zones. These may change over time as your garden and lifestyle changes and develops.
Once you have you pathways mapped out, you can start to number or circle zones.
We will all have different zones and pathways because, we all have different routines and priorities. Below are some examples but also take into consideration how often you use or frequent these areas or elements. You may visit your chickens 3 times a day to say hello or you may only use your compost for pruning and weeding rather than everyday scraps. This will also change depending on the size of your property. It’s about finding out what YOUR zones are.
It is useful to go through this every few years, especially, if your lifestyle has changed or you have moved properties.
Zone 0
Typically your house or dwelling as you spend the most time here.
Bokashi
Indoor garden
Zone 1
Kitchen Gardens
Patio or Balcony gardens
Outdoor setting areas
Greenhouse
Seedling Raising areas
Compost
Worm farms
Pot plants or container gardens
Utility sheds
Zone 2
Main vegetable patch
Small animals such as chickens, ducks
High maintenance fruit trees or regular produces (lemons)
Larger composting systems
Dense planting
Vertical gardens
Zone 3
Other animals such as goats, bees, sheeps etc
Milking animals
Hardier fruit trees or food forests
Animal food systems
Windbreaks
Firebreaks
Ponds
Zone 4
Storage of extra supplies or firewood
Low maintenance herd animals such as cattle
Agroforestry
Set and forget planting
Old established non producing trees
Zone 5
Wilderness / bushland
Neighbouring properties
Place and mapping your zones out doesn’t need to be linear. They can be the same distance from the house as each other – it is more about how often you frequent them. For example: zone 3 may be closer to your house than zone 2 but it is out the side door of your house that you don’t often use.
The main goal of creating these zones and sectors is so that you can place your elements such as kitchen garden, shed, chickens, orchards in areas where they can benefit the most from the natural energy forces and create as many interconnected relationships as possible.
So you may place your vegetable patch where it is protected from winds, gets good winter sun and is next to or on the way to your chickens and compost bins. That way your extra garden greens can easily be fed to the chickens or placed in the compost. And then that compost can be easily spread on the gardens to grow more food.
Creating pathways where things can naturally happen along the way makes it so much easier and more achievable.
Remember to think of this as a journey. You may be just starting out with a kitchen garden and vegetable patch but in the future you may have chickens, a pond, a food forest and so on, so it’s important that you place things in areas that you naturally frequent and that are easily accessible. Otherwise, the further down the journey you get, it may get overwhelming and hard. If this happens, then your orchard may not get pruned, garden beds may be forgotten about and die and the wheels might start falling off.
This is such a valuable exercise to do and update regularly. Create systems that work together and have that ease and flow. That way it will actually be sustainable long term with a lot less effort.
If you have any questions please let me know via email, I will be more than happy to help.
