Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) is a perennial herb with fragrant lemon-scented leaves. Lemon balm is part of the Mint family and is known for having weed-like growth and self-seeds easily. With hundreds of small white flowers, the lemon balm is a powerful bee attractant. It has toothed edges and slightly hairy leaves with a lemony scent.
Lemon balm-like many herbs, has been traditionally used to aid in an array of health conditions. With calming and relaxing properties as well as anti-viral and anti-bacterial qualities, lemon balm is a great addition to a kitchen garden.
Springafter the last frost.Can be grown all year round in many climates.
SOIL
Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Will grow in most soil types.
LOCATION
Full sun – Dappled or shaded position.
CARE
Regular watering – is a thirsty plant.
FERTILISE
Easy to grow and doesn’t need much help.
PESTS
Snails, slaters, and aphids.
HARVEST
Harvest regularly to keep contained.
REPRODUCE
Grows easily from cuttingsor save seeds after flowering.
Why Grow Lemon Balm?
There are many reasons to grow Lemon Balm and it is so easy to grow!
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Lemon Balm
Easy to grow
Fragrant lemon scent and flavour
Grows well in containers
Low maintenance
Pollinator plant
Relaxant
Antiviral
Aids in Cold sores
Great for teas
Salad dressings
Cut and come again harvest
Pest resistant
Reduce stress and anxiety
When to Plant Lemon Balm
Lemon balm grows well most of the year. New plants should be planted after the last frost. If planting in summer, keep well watered.
How to Grow Lemon Balm
Choose a sunny spot with dappled or part shade in the heat of summer.
Prepare the soil with rich compost
Direct sow seeds or plant in seed trays first.
1 plant is plenty.
Can benefit from protection during the heat of summer.
Care/ Maintenance
Lemon balm, like Mint is a thirsty plant. Keep well watered and have a drip tray for pots. Cut back the plant after it has finished flowering to promote new growth.
Once the plant is well-established, harvest sprigs as needed.
Use clean, sharp kitchen scissors to cut your harvest, or just pick with your hands to prevent the spreading of diseases.
Cut and come again crop that will regrow quickly. I often harvest and use in cold drinks or teas every other day.
Reproducing
Take cuttings and allow to root in a jar of water. Refresh the water every few days. Seeds can also be saved and will flower with white flowers on the stem. Once the seeds form and turn brown, collect them and dry them further. Keep in a dark, cool and dry environment.
Cooking and Using Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is best used fresh. Dried leaves lose their scent and flavour.
NZ Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) also known in Australia as Warrigal greens is a perennial green with beautiful lush leaves. Although not part of the Spinach family, NZ Spinach is used as a spinach substitute. The great thing about this edible plant is that, unlike many spinach varieties, it thrives in warm weather! It has thicker more succulent style leaves perfect for warm climates or coastal sea spray.
NZ spinach grows as a thick edible ground cover and will cover and protect the soil in just a few short weeks. Thus, providing an abundance of leafy greens to eat!
Springafter the last frost.Can be grown all year round in many climates.
SOIL
Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plenty of compost.pH 6.8-7
LOCATION
Full sun – Dappled or shaded position.
CARE
Regular watering.
FERTILISE
Compost teas or liquid fertilisers.
PESTS
Slug and snail.
HARVEST
Harvest regularly to keep contained.
REPRODUCE
Grows easily from cuttings
Why Grow NZ Spinach?
There are many reasons to grow NZ spinach and it is so easy to grow!
Here are some of the many reasons to grow NZ Spinach
Easy to grow
Abundant producer!
Handles hot climates
Low maintenance
Edible ground cover
Antioxidants
High in vitamins A, C,B1,B2
Protects soil
Cut and come again harvest
Suppress weeds
Pest resistant
Handles coastal environments
When to Plant NZ Spinach
NZ Spinach is a hardy perennial but thrives in warm weather. It does not tolerate frosts so it may be grown as an annual in climates that receive cold frosty winters. Sow in Spring after your last frost. It is a vigorous grower so make sure you have space for it or it will overtake small plants. Great for a food forest-style garden or low-maintenance corners.
How to Grow NZ Spinach
Choose a sunny spot with dappled or part shade in the heat of summer.
Prepare the soil with rich compost
Direct sow seeds or plant in seed trays first. Can benefit from soaking the seeds in water overnight first.
1-2 plants per person is plenty!
Plant seedlings on small mounds to keep them well drained.
Care/ Maintenance
Protection from the harsh summer sun can help the flavour of NZ Spinach and reduce bitterness. Keep well watered in warm temperatures.
Once the plant is well established with approx 1m sprawl you can start harvesting stems at 3-4 inch pieces. This will help contain the plant and also promote new fresh growth which tastes the best!
Use clean, sharp kitchen scissors to cut your harvest.
At the end of summer, it can be a good idea to back old growth and use as mulch.
Cut and come again crop that will regrow quickly. I often harvest and use in meals every other day.
Reproducing
Take cuttings and allow to root in a jar of water. Refresh the water every few days. Seeds can also be saved and will flower with tiny yellow flowers on the stem. Once the seeds form and turn brown, collect them and dry them further. Keep in a dark, cool and dry environment.
Cooking and Using NZ Spinach
NZ Spinach like many leafy greens contains high oxalates so it is best to blanch greens first. Blanch greens in simmering hot water for 2mins and then plunge them into ice-cold water to keep them vibrant and fresh. Or simply cook or stir-fry. Young leaves can be eaten raw in small amounts. NZ Spinach is great to cook/blanch and freezes for future use. Or try fermented greens.
Ginger (Zingerber officinale) is a perennial herb with beautiful lush leaves and produces edible rhizomes that are both flavour-enhancing and medicinal. Ginger is a great addition to your edible garden as it can be grown in pots or as an understory part of your food forest. Ginger easily self propagates and you can divide the rhizomes up to regrow more and more ginger each year. Ginger is a staple for your medicinal garden.
Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plenty of compost.
LOCATION
Dappled or part shade position. Sheltered and warm.
CARE
Regular watering.
FERTILISE
Compost teas or liquid fertilisers.
PESTS
HARVEST
Harvest in autumn or 8-10 months after planting. When leaves die off. Harvest all at once or leave some to regrow.
REPRODUCE
Cut the rhizomes into pieces with at least 2 “eyes”. Allow cuts to dry off before planting.
Why Grow Ginger?
Ginger is a slower grower but low maintenance and produces an abundance of rhizomes beneath the surface.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Ginger
Easy to grow
Versatile produce
Low maintenance
Aids in nausea
Antioxidants
Flavour enhancer
Visual Aesthetics
Supports Immune health
Rich in Vitamin A,B,C
Can be eaten raw, cooked, or pickled
Anti-inflammatory properties
Popular Ginger Varieties
Ensure you have edible ginger plants before planting as there are many types of ornamental gingers that can be invasive. Selecting organic locally grown ginger rhizomes from the shops can be a good way to regrow ginger plants.
When to Plant Ginger
Ginger is a warm loving tropical plant. It thrives in humid conditions but can still be grown in a range of different climates. Plant ginger late winter-spring depending on how cold your climate is. Plant after the last frost when temperatures are warming up. Ginger likes temperatures between 20-30 degrees and needs at least 5-8 months to grow. If you live in a cooler climate you may need to start or finish your ginger of indoors or in a greenhouse to keep it warm.
How to Grow Ginger
Choose a sheltered, sunny spot with dappled or part shade.
Prepare the soil with rich compost or a pot at least 300mm wide.
Cut Rhyzomes into pieces with at least 2 “eyes each. The eyes are on the end of the knobs and have a little circle. Wait a few days until the cuts have dried off to prevent rot.
Plant 15cm apart.
You can also plant the whole piece in the ground without cutting it first.
Ginger can be a little slow to get growing and show through the soil so don’t stress. Keep them moist but not soggy.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep Ginger well-watered but not soggy. Ginger doesn’t like strong winds so protection using larger trees or plant in sheltered locations.
Once the leaves start to die off in Autumn reduce the watering and let the plants start to die down to put energy into the rhizomes.
You can harvest ginger throughout the growing period the young ginger or “green ginger” has a more mild flavour and can be used raw. Just ensure you don’t disturb the patch too much.
Once the leaves are all brown dig up the patch.
You can select some to regrow and plant straight back in the soil.
Rinse off the soil and remove the roots. These are the skinny smooth parts below the rhizomes.
Reproducing
Ginger is best reproduced by cutting up the rhizomes to produce more plants or left to repopulate on its own. Leaving ginger in the ground without harvesting can help produce an established patch. Then each year in Autumn harvest what you need and leave the rest to regrow.
Cooking and Using Ginger
Ginger can be eaten raw, cooked, pickled or fermented.
Kale (Brassica oleracea) is a member of the Cabbage family and produces an abundance of leafy greens. The great thing about Kale is that it grows vigorously and is much more pest-resistant than cabbages. Kale is packed with nutrients and antioxidants and can be used raw or cooked similar to lettuce or spinach.
Benefits from regular compost and natural fertilizers.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, and green caterpillars/ cabbage moth.
HARVEST
Harvest the outer leaves as the plant grows or cut the mature plant off and allow new growth to form.
REPRODUCE
Kale is Bi-annual so seeds usually form in the summer or second season.
Why Grow Kale?
Kale is a fantastic crop for beginner gardeners or those wanting a low-maintenance edible garden. Kale is hardy and grows well in many different conditions.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kale:
Easy to grow
Versatile produce
Low maintenance
Bulk up salads
Nutritious smoothies
Less susceptible to pests
Visual Aesthetics
Supports Immune health
Rich in Vitamin C,K,E
Can be eaten raw or cooked
Popular Kale Varieties
‘Tuscan / Tuscano’ – Heirloom variety. Produces long dark green, palm-like leaves. Popular for flavour and texture.
‘Red Russian’ – Silvery green curly leaves with striking purple veins. Young leaves are good raw and older leaves are better cooked. Great for microgreens.
‘Siberian‘ – Green curly leaves. Mild sweet flavour. Hardy and prolific.
‘Scarlet‘ – Bright purple frilly leaves. Colour deepens with cool weather. Nutritious and ornamental.
When to Plant Kale
Kale is best planted from the end of Summer to Spring. Flavour improves with cool weather. In summer plants can get covered in aphids and caterpillars and the flavour is less palatable.
How to Grow Kale
Plant seeds into seed trays first (young kale is popular with pests) and transplant them in a sunny location once they have 4-5 leaves.
Dig in compost and composted manure to feed the soil.
Kale has shallow roots so add mulch to keep retain moisture and regulate temperature.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep Kale well-watered and keep an eye out for pests.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Older plants can suffer from aphids and green caterpillars, especially in warmer months. Use natural pest management.
How/ When to Harvest
The best time to harvest your Kale is during the coldest months. This is when the flavour is at its best! Harvest a few of the bottom leaves off each plant to allow continuous growth. Towards the end of winter/ early spring, you can cut the Kale plants off just leaving the stalk in the ground. This will reshoot multiple side shoots for a new harvest into Spring.
Reproducing
Kale is biennial so it will go to flower and produce seeds in its second season/ year or if the weather gets too warm. If your Kale does go to flower, wait until the flowers turn into seed pods and once they start to dry and turn brown they can be harvested. Keep the seed pods somewhere warm and dry until they have completely dried out. Pop open the seed pods to reveal the small Kale seeds. Keep your seeds in a dry, dark cool location.
Cooking and Using Kale
Kale can be eaten raw or cooked.
Kale pairs well with: Garlic, onion, chilli, apple, lemon, potato, beetroot, sweet potato, cauliflower, cabbage, tomato, mustard, honey, radish
Kale ideas:
Salads
Smoothies
Quiche
Pie
Curry
Pastries
Stirfry
Pesto
Preserving the Harvest
Kale can be easily preserved to use throughout the year.
Rhubarb (Rhubarb rharbarmarum) is a long-living herbaceous perennial. Rhubarb is a hardy cold tolerant plant and many varieties have beautiful red stems to bring colour and aesthetics to your garden. Older heritage varieties can be saved for 100s of years and passed down through generations.
Rhubarb stems are the edible part of the plant and the leaves are poisonous. It is easy to grow and is often left alone by pests so it makes the perfect addition to a low-maintenance section of the garden.
Benefits from regular compost and natural fertilizers.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, and green caterpillars.
HARVEST
Harvest once established (1 year at least). Pull outer stalks rather than cutting.
REPRODUCE
Rhubarb can be split from the crown to reproduce. Seeds can also be collected from mature plants.
Why Grow Rhubarb?
Rhubarb is an edible that is easy to grow and looks beautiful and ornamental in the garden.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Rhubarb:
Easy to grow
Delicious for baking
Low maintenance
Jams and preserves
Cold tolerant
Less susceptible to pests
Visual Aesthetics
Anti-inflammatory
High in vitamin K
Leaves can be used to make natural insecticides.
Popular Rhubarb Varieties
‘Victoria’ – Oldest heirloom variety. Produces large pinkish-red stalks.
‘Winter wonders’ – Stems are green in summer and red in winter. Cold tolerant that produces after many other varieties have gone dormant.
‘Ever Red‘ – Year-round producing. Stalks remain red all year round.
‘Wandin Red‘ – Hardy year-round producing rhubarb with red stalks.
‘Next Generation‘ – Hybrid with bright red stalks. Easy to grow all year round.
When to Plant Rhubarb
Rhubarb is best planted from Autumn to Spring. Plants can go dormant during winter in very cold locations.
How to Grow Rhubarb
Choose a sunny location that will be available as a long-term home for the Rhubarb. Rhubarb will need a bit of space so choose a location that is roughly 1m per plant although you can plant multiple plants a little closer. Rhubarb can overshadow surrounding plants.
Dig in compost and composted manure to feed the soil.
Plant roots or seedlings at least 0.5m apart as the leaves will grow large. If planting from a root ball ensure the eye or parts where the leaves will come out from is just above the surface.
Add mulch to keep retain moisture.
Care/ Maintenance
For abundant harvests, you can feed Rhubarb every 2-3 weeks with liquid fertilizer over Spring and Summer. Rhubarb may go dormant over winter so you can stop feeding and stop harvesting. Mature Rhubarb plants may send up large flowers on a stalk. These suck all the plant energy and as Rhubarb is easily propagated from splitting the plant the seeds are not really necessary. Rhubarb seeds will not grow true to type so the results may be varied. It is recommended to cut the flower off as you see it forming (unless you want to try and save the seeds).
The best time to harvest Rhubarb is once the plants are mature enough to support their growth and can handle having stems removed. This is usually best to wait 1 year after planting. Remove one or two outer stalks from each plant. Hold the stalk near the base and gently pull and twist to remove the stalk. Do not cut the stalks as the small remaining piece may rot and cause disease to the plant. Remove the leaves as just the stalk is edible.
Reproducing
Wait until the plants are mature and have many stalkings forming from the main crown. It is best to split the plants every 3-4 years to reset and renew the plant. Split your Rhubarb in early Spring before the new growth has started. Dig up the whole plant and using a clean, sharp knife cut the main root ball into sections. Ensure each section has at least one bud or point where new leaves will form from. Place the root sections back in the soil to regrow new plants.
Cooking and Using Rhubarb
Rhubarb stalks can be eaten raw or used in baking.
