Garden to Gift – Sustainable DIY gifting ideas

Garden to Gift – Sustainable DIY gifting ideas

Gift-giving doesn’t need to be expensive, stressful, or hard! These sustainable DIY gift ideas will have you inspired to create more gifts from your garden – all year round! Whether you are visiting a friend or trying to find a Birthday, Mother/fathers day, or Christmas gift there’s something for all occasions in this gift guide.

Click to watch my gift guide ideas below

My thoughts around gift giving

I don’t always buy or give gifts for special occasions…It can seem strange at first to skip out on gift-giving. We may feel guilty, awkward, or just like a bad friend or partner! But if nothing is popping up as the perfect gift idea then I don’t waste money on consuming more “stuff” that they may not even like.

BUT….what I do is.. make more homemade gifts myself! It’s much more personalised and can spark inspiration in others. If you gift produce or create gifts from your garden you may even inspire the receiver to reconnect with their own garden. I also give small gifts from my garden each time I visit friends and family. In short, my gift-giving is sporadic and you may receive an amazing gift from me, regular handmade gifts, or nothing at all. But if I find the perfect idea later in the year I just gift it then. Who doesn’t love a surprise gift?

Garden to Gift Ideas

These gift ideas can be used all year round to create personalised gifts from your garden. The great thing is, they are free/low cost, low waste, and easy to put together for last-minute (oops I forgot ) gift ideas.

—- GET CREATIVE —-

1. Framed Art

Pressed flowers make beautiful garden art ideas. Mixed with small illustrations or paintings. TIP: Choose small frames as nearly everything looks cute in a small frame… You could also get second-hand frames and paint them for an extra thrifty option.

2. DIY Colouring in Book

Draw basic outline illustrations and create a custom colouring books for kids. They don’t need to be professional artworks just choose objects that they love and use their name to make them feel special. Choose themes such as Farm, Beach, Woodland, Food Forest, and Veggie patch!

3. Photography

Framed photos or prints make great gifts! They are low-cost and can be easily personalised. Close-ups from the garden, scenic landscapes, and photos of friends and family. I love getting printed photographs because it is something I rarely do anymore. In this digital age, we rarely take the time to sort through our hundreds of photos so sometimes it’s nice to do.

4. Custom Clothing and Plant Dye

DIY Jackets are a fun way to get creative and make custom gifts. Denim jackets can always be found at secondhand shops and upcycled. I love making jackets for significant events like weddings and first birthdays. They make great keepsakes too. Paint flowers from your garden or sew fabric patches. Get extra creative and make your own natural plant dyes from the garden.

—- GET PRESERVING —-

5. Homemade Jam, Chutney & Sauces

Homemade preserves make such great gifts! Especially if they are made from delicious fruit and vegetables grown in your home garden. Create fun, custom labels easily using Canva templates. You can also create DIY tags and notes using leaves and small bundles of herbs and flowers.

Sweet chilli sauce

6. Dried Herbs

Herbs produce in abundance and drying them is a great way to preserve them to use throughout the year. Make your own mixed herb blends and gift them to others to use in their kitchen. Homemade dried herbs are so much better than the greyish uninspiring supermarket editions.

7. Dehydrated Fruit

Dehydrated fruit is one of my go-to garden to gift ideas! I make large batches and always have enough on hand to either pop in a recycled jar or cut up and mix with dried flowers for a tea blend or a cocktail garnish blend. Dried citrus can be used in teas, cocktails, cakes, and baking. Also, incredible in mulled wine! Try chocolate-dipped for something extra special!

8. Flavoured Sugar and Salts

Herbal sugars and salts are such a fun and easy way to incorporate produce from your garden in a unique way. Simply blitz herbs and mix through salt and allow to fully dry. Dried edible flowers, herbs and citrus can be added to sugar to create flavoured sugars. Try Mint sugar in a hot chocolate!

Rosemary Salt

Nasturtium Salt

Fairy Salt

Calendula Sugar

9. Cocktail Garnish or Tea Blends

Tea blends make incredible gifts from the garden. See the list and mix and match to make your favourite blends. Dry herbs and flowers fully first either air dry or in a low-temperature oven or dehydrator (30-40 degrees Celcius). Dried fruit, herbs, and flowers also make great cocktail garnishes. Add to a nice jar and create a DIY Label.

—- GET BAKING —-

10. Bake Bread

Homemade bread is so delicious and makes a great gift idea. Baking great bread is not a skill everyone possesses so if you do, share the love and make a sourdough loaf or even a Garden Foccacia using herbs and fresh ingredients from your garden. Wrap it in brown paper with a note and place a small bundle of herbs or flowers. Done!

11. Sweet Treats

Who doesn’t love sweet treats? Homemade cookies, cakes and slices always make great gifts. Get creative and use edible flowers, herbs and fruit from your garden to create something special!

12. Savoury snacks

Savoury snacks are an entertainer’s dream. Try some botanical crackers for a great way to use herbs from your garden. Other delicious snacks could be scrolls, scones, slices, quiche or flavoured nuts.

—- GET GROWING —-

13. Cuttings and Seedlings

Take extra cuttings and pot them up to have extra gifts on hand at all times! Cuttings such as Sweet potato, mint, rosemary, fig and mulberry are easy to get striking. Check out my Cuttings Ebook for more ideas. If you have extra plants pop up in the garden, (hello volunteers!) simply pot them up to give as gifts.

14. Plant Extra Seeds

It’s always a good idea to plant extra seeds in case something happens to your others. I do this in stages so I plant extra seeds 3-4 weeks after my first lot. That means if my seeds have made it to the garden as seedlings but get eaten or damaged I have replacements already on the way. However, if I don’t need the backs up then I have plenty to gift to friends and family.

15. Edible Bouquets

I love picking wild vegetable and herb flowers that have gone to seed, herbs and edible flowers to create beautiful edible bunches to gift. There are so many great reasons to do this!

  • They smell amazing
  • Look beautiful and a little wild
  • Don’t cost anything!
  • Can be used to flavour meals and tea
  • Can be regrown in their own garden.

The great thing about keeping herbs such as Mint, Rosemary, Basil and Lavender in jars of water is that they will send off roots! Let your gift receiver know what they can replant.

16. Fresh Produce

Extra produce makes incredible gifts! This can be vegetables, herbs, flowers or fruit you have grown in your garden. Pop in a basket or box and deliver to your friends and family. The great thing about gifting produce from your garden is they get to try different things that may not be at the supermarket. You may also inspire them to reconnect with where their food comes from and start growing their own. You really don’t know how much you can inspire and make a change by simply gifting some homegrown produce.

17. Gifting Seeds

Once your gardens get established you will have plenty of seeds to start harvesting. Pop some in a brown envelope with a note of what they are, when you harvested them and who they were from. Seeds are great gifts because they bring with them so much inspiration and potential!

If you found these gift ideas helpful please share this post with others and help to inspire more people to create their own Homemade Garden to Gifts.

Setting up a Backyard Worm Farm

Setting up a Backyard Worm Farm

Worms are an amazing addition to a self-sufficient homestead as they turn scraps into nutrient-rich organic fertilizer to help you grow more food. Creating a sustainable lifestyle is all about taking small steps and changes to close the loop and nurture thriving ecosystems. You don’t have to do it all at once and I highly recommend starting small, mastering a manageable garden, and then start adding layers one by one. If you overwhelm yourself and don’t have habits and systems in place it won’t be sustainable long term and you can end up with unproductive chaos.

Click to watch a warm farm tour

Tips for setting up a backyard worm farm

1. Source a Worm Farm or Home for your Worms

There are many options for backyard worm systems from kit-set to DIY. You will also more than likely be able to pick up a second-hand worm farm so keep an eye out on your local listings and marketplace. Be mindful of your local climate and do a little research. In Perth, Australia, we have extremely hot summers that reach over 40 degrees. Cool shady locations are a must for worms. If you do live in a hot climate there are some great DIY options using old fridges and freezers to offer more protection. This is something I will be creating very soon!

backyard worm farm

2. Choose a Location

Choose a location for your worms that is out of direct sunlight and is well protected. On the flip side if you get snow or cold temperatures you would need to make sure you can bring your worm farm somewhere warmer.

The other important consideration to make is to keep it close and convenient. Worms like to be fed a little and often so you don’t want them down the back of your property where they may get forgotten about. Permaculture zone 1-2 would be great or have them located on a path that you frequent regularly. For example: on the way to the chicken coop or the washing line. Having things in convenient locations is the absolute key to being consistent and having systems in place that easily become habits means you don’t even have to think about it just becomes part of everyday life.

3. Source Composting Worms

There are many times of worms in your garden and they all play different roles so it’s important to get the right worms for your worm farm to make sure they are happy and thriving. Tiger worms are a popular type of worm for this system and can be purchased at many plant nurseries or hardware stores that sell worm farms. You may also be able to get set up with worms from friends that have their own form farms established.

4. What to Feed your worms

Feed your worms little and often! Be consistent.

What to feed: Coffee grinds, tea leaves, vegetable scraps, egg shells, banana peels, shredded paper or cardboard, dried leaves, greens, vacuum dust, and hair. The more variety the better as this will help keep a balanced pH. Add a little sprinkle of soil when you feed as the grit can help the worms break down the scraps. Keep the food scraps in smaller pieces if possible.

What to avoid feeding your Worms?

Avoid citrus, garlic, or the onion family as this will create an acidic environment that will harm the worms. No meat – as this can create bad bacteria and attract rats and other unwanted pests.

backyard worm farm

5. Water your Worms

Worms like a moist environment of around 70% moisture, so it’s important to give your worms a regular drink. Keep a damp sheet of cardboard, hessian sack, or newspaper on top of the food scraps to retain moisture and regulate temperatures. This also acts as a slow-releasing food source.

6. How to care for Worms when you go on Holiday

If you are going away for a few weeks your worms should be fine if you get them prepared. Flush water from the top tray, add plenty of food and some slow-release food such as pea straw, hay, and place some layers of wet newspaper or cardboard on top. This will help keep the worms nice and moist. If you are worried or going away for longer ask someone to stop by and feed your worms.

How to harvest the Worm Tea and Worm Castings?

The by-products of worms are both castings and worm tea. Castings are the worm poo which is your food scraps converted into soil. Add scoops of worm castings to your garden beds to feed and enrich the soil. Warm castings are quite concentrated so it’s best to mix this through with other soil first.

Once the worm bin starts to fill up with worm castings and the worms start trying to get out it may be time to change the bins over. Depending on the size of your worm farm and the population of worms this can be done 2-4 times a year. The active worm bin should be in the top layer so it is time to move this down and place an empty bin on top. Lift out as much of the uneaten food as possible and add it to the empty tub. Put in some fresh food and bedding and pour water over the top to moisten it all down. The worms will start to come up to the top layer to access the food and leave the bin of castings behind.

This may take a while for the worms to move up depending on how much uneaten food is left behind and how dense the population of worms is.

If you don’t have multiple layers in your worm farm another way to harvest the castings is to tip it all out onto some cardboard. The worms don’t like sunlight so they will move to the bottom of the pile and you can harvest off the top layer before putting the worms back in.

Worm tea can be watered down 10:1, especially on young seedlings but we also use a much more concentrated version of 50:50 on fruit trees. Just be careful when using it around young plants as they will be more sensitive, that’s when I would water it down more. Like with everything in the garden, when you are unsure or just starting out do sections and test it out first.

Use the worm tea within a month or two as you want to ensure the living organisms stay alive as that is the key to healthy soil!

If you have extra worm concentrate, bottle it up for gifts or this could be a great little side hustle for kids to sell.

18 Lettuce Substitutes to eat all year round

18 Lettuce Substitutes to eat all year round

It’s no secret in Australia and New Zealand that the price of lettuce has lost the plot.. $7.50 – $12 for a whole lettuce or $7 a bag 150gram mixed leaves. Now, obviously, this varies from place to place but these 18 substitutes for lettuce will allow you to have salad and sandwich greens all year round! You may already have some of these growing in your garden.

Many of these 18 lettuce substitutes have more nutrients and multiple uses so you can get more out of the food you grow. Lettuce is often used in sandwiches and salads so for today’s lettuce alternatives I will share which ones are best for these two main uses.

Click below to Watch Lettuce Substitutes

18 Substitutes for Lettuce

1. Calendula

Calendula is an edible flower and the leaves are also edible. Calendula leaves do have quite a strong flavour but you can add a few of these to your salads or sandwiches. Calendula flowers also have many healing qualities as well as attract pollinators to the garden. An amazing multi-use plant to add to your edible garden.

calendula

2. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums thrive well in most soil types and you will often see them spilling out onto the street from gardens or popping up in the wild. They have quite a weed-like growth because they are so easy to grow and self-seed. The whole plant is edible including the leaves, flowers, and seed pods. Nasturtium leaves are great for salads and are also the perfect size and shape to add to sandwiches. With a natural peppery flavour, Nasturtiums are a great substitute for lettuce.

3. Baby Beetroot Leaves

Baby Beetroot leaves can be harvested a few off each plant to use in salads and sandwiches. Beetroot leaves can have beautiful red veins or be entirely red depending on the variety. A beautiful and nutritious substitute for lettuce.

4. Rocket / Arugula

Rocket or Arugula is a popular substitute for Lettuce. Rocket has a distinct peppery taste and is delicious in salads, sandwiches and served on top of pizzas. Rocket grows quickly so if you plant both Rocket and Lettuce seeds you will have Rocket ready to eat while you wait for the lettuce to get established.

5. Kale

Kale is a popular substitute for lettuce and can be grown all year round in many climates. Kale comes in many varieties some are better than others for salads and sandwiches. My favourite is the Tuscan Kale as it has a softer texture. Choose the smaller leaves and chop Kale up finely to add to salads and sandwiches.

6. Purslane

Purslane is an edible weed that has succulent-like leaves. Purslane thrives in dry climates and is often popping up in my gardens in Perth. Purslane is a great addition to salads and sandwiches as an alternative to lettuce.

7. Sweet Violet

Sweet violets are known for their delicate purple or white flowers and beautiful fragrant scent. The sweet violet leaves are also edible and can be added to salads and sandwiches. They do have a bitter flavour so it can be a good idea to mix a few with other greens.

8. Rainbow Chard

Rainbow chard is a fantastic versatile green to grow during the colder months of the year. Baby rainbow chard leaves can be picked and used in salads and sandwiches. Larger leaves contain more oxalic acid so it is recommended to blanch them first.

9. Celery

Celery is a fresh, crunchy and hydrating vegetable just like lettuce. Celery leaves and stalks can be used in both salads and sandwiches.

10. Cabbage

Cabbage is a great all-around vegetable that has many culinary uses. Finely sliced cabbage is a deliciously fresh and crunchy substitute for lettuce. A little bit of Cabbage goes a long way so it is a very economical vegetable.

11. Asian Greens/ Bok Choy, Tatsoi, Choy Sum

Asian greens such as Bok Choy are great additions to your edible garden because they grow fast, can be harvested multiple times from each plant and are versatile in the kitchen. Use the softy leafy ends in salads and sandwiches and the thicker stems in soups or stir-fries.

12. Dandelion Greens

Dandelions are another edible weed. Choose young dandelion greens to add to salads and sandwiches as a substitute for lettuce. Always make sure you identify weeds correctly and only forage from places you know have not been sprayed with chemicals.

13. Sweet Potato Leaves

Sweet Potato Leaves are abundant green in the garden. Use the young leaves in a salad or blanch or stirfry the larger leaves.

14. Spinach

Spinach is another popular substitute for lettuce and is a versatile plant to have in the garden. Baby spinach leaves are best for raw salads or sandwiches due to the oxalic acid contained in the plant.

15. Chickweed

Chickweed (Stellaria media) is an edible weed that grows in abundance during winter. Chickweed has small delicate leaves and flowers and loves to grow in moist shady spots during winter. Chickweed has a mild fresh flavour similar to sprouts and makes a delicious lettuce substitute. Chickweed is also a popular feed for chickens.

16. Carrot & Radish Tops

Carrot tops and Radish tops can be finely sliced to add to salads. The younger leaves will be more tender than the older larger ones. Finely slice and drizzle with salad dressing. They can also be wilted down in the pan to soften first. The tops also go great in a Garden Pesto to dress your salads.

17. Watercress

Watercress grows in abundance during the winter months and is a great substitute for lettuce. Watercress does have a strong peppery flavour so it can be good to mix a little with other more mild greens and a dressing. Watercress is also good for soups and stir-fries. Watercress can be foraged but always ensure you have a safe source with no chemicals contaminating it.

18. Parsley

Parsley is a common herb that is often under-utilized. Parsley can be delicious chopped up fine in a salad or added to a sandwich! Flat leaf parsley is my favourite variety for this.

Sustainable Living Alternatives

The great thing about growing food is you have access to so many parts of the plant that are often discarded. Learning what parts of the plant are edible and how to use them can help you double your food supply overnight!

There are many more options than this so let me know in the comments if you use any of these or if you use other plants as lettuce substitutes in your garden. That will help others that find this post and are looking for more ways to expand their food source.

Of course, grab yourself some lettuce seeds too, and get your own little salad bar growing. I like to grow mixed loose leaf varieties and then I pick one or two leaves of each plant. Combined with other greens from your garden you can make your salad greens go a whole lot further.

NOTE: It’s important to note that some greens from the garden do contain higher levels of oxalic acid than others. This can block the absorption of some nutrients. Oxalic acid is reduced by cooking which is why many leafy greens such as spinach and chard are cooked first. This is mainly only a problem if you eat a lot of that plant. So by chopping up a little from each and choosing the younger leaves you can reduce the amount of oxalic acid consumed.

Cabbage

Cabbage

Plant of The Month Info Card

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a classic staple winter veggie that provides your homestead with a hearty base crop to build many dishes.

Cabbage is a great supporting veggie BUT it can also be the star of the show! Learning to grow, cook and preserve cabbage will go a long way to supporting your ability to become more self-sufficient. Cabbage is low-calorie but packed with vitamins, antioxidants, and nutrients.

What parts of the Cabbage are edible?

PLANT

Autumn – Winter. Some varieties all year round.

SOIL

Rich well-drained soil. Prefer pH 7.5

LOCATION

Full sun position

CARE

Consistent watering.

FERTILISE

Feed with compost and with liquid seaweed fertiliser.

PESTS

Slaters, slugs, snails, green caterpillars.

HARVEST

When heads are firm. Cut with a sharp knife.

REPRODUCE

Seeds can be saved in the second year of growth. See below.

Why Grow Cabbage?

Cabbage is a great crop to grow to feed the family and they look beautiful and ornamental in the garden.

Here are some of the many reasons to grow Cabbage:

  • Easy to grow
  • Low maintenance
  • Produce a lot of food
  • Can be used raw or cooked.
  • Rich in vitamin C, K, B12
  • High in anti-oxidants
  • High in fibre
  • Nutrient-dense
  • Can be used as a food colouring
  • Promote cardiovascular health

‘Mini’ – Small green cabbage great for urban gardens. Slow blot. 18 weeks to harvest. 1.3kg size.

‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ – Tight cone-shaped green cabbage. Space-saving for urban gardens. Harvest small or allow to 2-3kg size.

Brunswick – German heirloom green cabbage. Late season crop. Large 3kg Cabbage.

‘Red Drumhead -Heirloom red cabbage with beautiful purple leaves. Large 3kg+ size. Caterpillar resistant so good for warmer months.

‘Red Express’  – Compact small red cabbage. Quick to grow and will produce an early harvest.

‘Savoy Green cabbage with distinctive curly texture. Mild flavour. Rich in vitamins.

When to Plant Cabbage

Cabbage is mainly grown in the colder seasons of Autumn and winter but some varieties can be grown in the warmer months to allow for a full year of cabbage harvests. Plant seeds at the start of Autumn.

How to Grow Cabbage

  • Choose a sunny location.
  • Prepare compost-rich soil ( pH 7.5 preferred)
  • Direct sow or plant your seeds in seed trays.
  • Plant seeds or seedlings 40cm apart
  • Protect young seedlings from slugs and snails but adding a ring of crushed eggshells
  • Add mulch to keep retain moisture

Care/ Maintenance

  • Cabbage are heavy feeders and can benefit from a liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks
  • Regular watering

Pests / Disease

Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Use natural pest management. Green caterpillars from the white butterflies are usually the main culprits. Especially during warmer months of the year. In some cases, exclusion nets over your cabbage plants or entire patch may be the best option.

How/ When to Harvest

When the cabbages form a tight ball and look about the right size to harvest (check the variety to how big you can expect them to grow) Use a sharp knife to slice the cabbage stem at the base. Remove some of the old outer leaves and rinse well checking for bugs and poop.

Reproducing

Cabbage plants are biannual meaning they will produce seeds in their second season. This means saving seeds from cabbage can be quite time consuming and will take up space in your patch. Cabbages grown in warm months will also attract a lot of white butterflies to your veggie patch. Most of the time it is easier and more effective to purchase cabbage seeds. If you would like to try to save your own – leave a few cabbages without harvesting them for a year to produce flowers and then seeds. Once the seed pods start to dry on the plant, pick and dry further inside. Separate out the seeds from the seed pods and store them.

Cooking and Using Cabbage

Cabbage is a versatile veggie that can be used raw, cooked, roasted and pickled.

Pairs well with: thyme, mustard, ginger, honey, apple, carrot, beetroot, fennel, lemon, vinegar, butter, sour cream, cheese, onion

Cabbage ideas:

Preserving the Harvest

Cabbage can be easily preserved to use throughout the year.

  • Freeze
  • Pickle
  • Bottle/can

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Previous Feature Plants

Sustainable Gardening HACKS for Time-Poor Gardeners

Sustainable Gardening HACKS for Time-Poor Gardeners

10 Sustainable Gardening hacks to ensure your garden is quick and easy to maintain for sustainable long-term growth. Do you want to grow an edible garden and harvest delicious organic food straight from your own backyard but… you don’t have enough time in the day? Whether you are a busy parent or your spare time is already devoted to hobbies, sports, growing your business, or other priorities and you want to ensure your garden is easy to maintain for sustainable long-term growth, then these Sustainable Gardening Hacks are perfect for you!

Lazy gardening is actually an amazing thing! It means you are working smarter, not harder, and have systems in place to work with nature to get abundant harvests.

So let’s not waste any time and get straight into it…

1. Plant Perennials

Perennial plants are ones that you plant once and they will continue to give you harvests for many years to come. They are the ultimate hack for sustainable gardening! So this is probably my number one tip for lazy or time-poor gardeners.

Perennials are plants such as Fruit Trees, Berries, Bananas, Sweet Potatoes, Rhubarb, Artichoke, and Asparagus. Aromatics such as Ginger and Tumeric, and Herbs such as Rosemary, Lemon Verbena, and Mint. These you plant once and each year they will produce more and more food. There are also many perennial versions of our much-loved annuals such as Perennial Basil, and Perpetual Spinach. This year I have added Egyptian Walking Onions, more Berries, Fruit Trees, Asparagus and Artichoke.

I am converting more and more of my gardens to perennials because not only does that mean I have more time to spend developing new gardens or pouring hours into creating more gardening content but, Perennial Plants also allow a seamless transition and continuous supply of food. Perennials will either produce all year round or they will have certain times of the year when they are fruiting or producing. If you want to really level it up you can plan out when your perennials are ready and ripe and plan to fill in the gaps with other perennials that will be productive during these gaps in the season. For example, my citrus are ready in winter, then over summer I have berries, and in autumn I have Feijoas. My plan is to have a continuous supply of fruit all year round so I will continue to select plants that are ready during the gaps.

2. Chop and Drop

This is a technique of mulching and composting that I use in my urban food forest. Any time I trim my plants or remove any annuals I simply chop up the leaves and branches and drop them around the garden allowing the plant matter to break down and feed my plants. This is very easy to do and I don’t have to move plant material anywhere. It protects the soil from the sun, suppresses weeds and it feeds my soil to help grow more and more food! It’s a win-win situation and saves a lot of time. Fruit trees also love the fungal properties that rotting sticks and branches provide.

This technique works best with a food forest situation rather than a veggie patch, as it would be much harder to spread the plant matter and not cover small seedlings. This may also attract slaters or woodlice which will help break down the plant matter but these little critters are not something you want in your veggie patch.


3. Direct Sow Seeds

This is my favourite way to plant seeds. No, it’s not the most effective, but it saves a lot of time. I find direct sowing seeds straight into the garden can take a bit longer for them to germinate because it might not be the right soil temperatures but once they pop up they will usually be stronger plants. Sowing in seed trays means you can control the conditions and bring them inside which will encourage them to pop up sooner but you need to baby them and care for them. Harden them off by taking them outside so they can get used to outside temperatures before you plant them in the garden. They are just more fiddly and do require more attention. So where I can I go with the survival of the fittest approach and plant a few extra seeds.

4. Grow Soil

If you are time-poor and only have small amounts of time to allocate to your gardens, I would definitely put a big chunk of that into improving your soil and creating soil-improving systems. This will go a long way in creating sustainable gardens. Healthy nutrient-rich soil means your plants will grow faster, they will be stronger and more resilient and they will not succumb to pests and diseases as easily. If your soil is poor and lacks nutrients you will end up spending more time trying to keep your plants alive, more time watering and more time babying your plants.

5. Mulch

Following on from growing soil – keeping your gardens well mulched is a great system to help build soil for sustainable gardens. Mulch will start to break down over time and feed your soil. Mulching also helps keep moisture in so your gardens won’t need as much watering and they help suppress weeds. Weeds are not friends with time-poor or lazy gardeners. So having a thick layer of mulch will help reduce the time needed for weeding and also the weeds that do grow will be so much easier to pull out.

6. Make it Close and Convenient

Choosing a location for your garden can be a make or break for the time-poor or lazy gardener. If you decide to grow your veggie patch or garden down the back of your property or behind the shed, it may start off okay whilst you are full of enthusiasm and feeling inspired, but eventually it will be out of sight and out of mind…. this happens to me all the time and my property is just a suburban block. I plant all my low-maintenance plants such as perennials and fruit trees all in the outer parts of my property and the annuals or plants that require more attention or regular harvesting, within view of my kitchen. In permaculture, we call these zones and it makes so much sense. When it’s raining, dark or you have had a long day, traipsing out to the veggie patch might not be high on the list. But, if you have your gardens close to your house and within view, you might notice something that needs harvesting or attention, and your garden will naturally receive more love and attention because of that. Therefore it will be more productive.

Even If this means you start off with small container gardens and once you master that move on to larger more permanent spaces.

7. Grow Wild

Creating diversity and growing lots of plants all together will not only do amazing things for the number of beneficial insects in your garden, but it can also be a lot more low maintenance. Conventional gardens with neat edges, straight rows, and symmetrical layouts will take a lot more time to maintain. By creating a garden that is a little wilder it will look lush and have less room for weeds to take up home. Even if you do get some weeds they blend in and don’t look too messy and hey, some of them may even be edible or provide flowers for the bees. Edible ground covers are great for this.

8. Let Plants go to Seed

If you let some of your plants go to flower and seed you will have plants popping up all on their own next season. This is another way you can create sustainable garden systems. The great thing about self-sown seeds is that they stay dormant in the soil until they get the right conditions to grow and then they shoot up. With absolutely no effort on your behalf. I have lettuce, tomatoes, basil, and edible flowers pop up nearly every year. Free FOOD! This technique can be amazing but it can also be a little wild at times. It’s important to try to contain the seeds on your property. I let a celery plant go to seed once and I had celery popping up in everywhere!

9. Easy Watering

Watering can take up a lot of time, especially during the warmer months. And if you run out of time or can’t be bothered then you could lose your plants after just one day in the peak of summer (especially if you live here in Perth!). Thinking about watering and creating sustainable watering systems will go such a long way to saving time in the garden.

Some great tips are to install automatic timers and drip lines. Another is to ensure you have a hose nearby to your gardens and make it a retractable hose! Nothing puts you off watering than thinking about unraveling and putting away a hose. A retractable hose can be out and back in seconds and it has honestly been a game-changer for me in my garden!

Mulching will also help with water retention.

10. Get the Plant Selection Right

Selecting the right plants will go a long way toward creating a low-maintenance sustainable garden. We talked about choosing perennials earlier but there are also other plant selection criteria than can really help you grow an abundant garden with less effort.

  • Choose local or native plants. Plants that thrive in your local area will be much more adapted to the conditions and will be easier to grow. Native edible plants are often interesting and unique additions to your garden. They will also attract your local pollinators and wildlife which is a bonus!
  • Choose low-maintenance plants. Some plants require more care and upkeep than others. And some will have a lot more pests and diseases than others. This will vary from place to place.
  • Tomatoes – require staking and tying and are susceptible to pests and diseases. I often grow cherry tomatoes as I find them a lot easier to grow.
  • Stone fruit – Trees such as Nectarines, Peaches, and Plums have soft skin and can be vulnerable to many pests and diseases. Birds, fruit flies, rats, bats, etc. They may require netting or individually bagging fruit to ensure you get a harvest. I have chosen citrus as they have thicker skins and I find them a little more hardy and low maintenance. I have a lot of citrus for that reason such as Lemon, Lime, Blood Orange, Finger Limes, Blood Limes, Kumquat, and Lemonade.
  • Herbs and fragrant plants such as Lemon Verbena, Rosemary, and Ginger are often left alone by pests and are easy to grow.

This is where it is a great idea to visit small local nurseries where you can get helpful advice on what grows well in your local climate.

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Guide to Storing Pumpkins

Guide to Storing Pumpkins

Pumpkins are a great base crop to grow and can provide you with a large amount of food. Pumpkins come with their very own packaging and can be stored as they are for 3-8 months if they are prepared and stored correctly. Having a supply of pumpkins in the pantry can supplement your meals throughout the year. Different varieties of pumpkins will store for varying amounts of time. This is usually due to the toughness and thickness of the skin. If you want to grow pumpkins for storage choose a variety that has longer storage qualities. Varieties such as Jarradale, Queensland Blue, and Blue Hubbard have great storage qualities.

STEP 1: HARVESTING

The first step to preparing your pumpkins for storage is to harvest them correctly. Follow the tips below.

  • Harvest the Pumpkins once they reach maturity to ensure the skin is as hard as it can be.
  • Pumpkins are ready to be picked when the closest curly tendril to the stem is brown and going dry. The vines will be starting to die off slightly. The pumpkins should be slightly hollow when you knock on them and have hard skins.
  • Use sharp secateurs and cut the stem as close to the vine as you can. This ensures you don’t damage the pumpkin and creates a handle to carry them with.

STEP 2: CLEANING

  • Wash the excess soil off and ensure the pumpkins are clean. Use a mix of 1:1 vinegar and water to wipe them down and remove any bacteria.
  • While washing the pumpkins check for any damage or areas that pierce the skin such as holes, or scratches. These won’t store well so it would be best to start using these first.

STEP 3: CURING

  • Curing allows the pumpkin skins to dry and harden before storage.
  • To cure the pumpkins place them somewhere sunny and sheltered for 1-2 weeks. This can be outside if there are no frosts or rain otherwise a sunny porch or deck will do. Just be careful if you have rats or other critters around.
  • Ensure they are spaced out and not stacked on top of each other.

STEP 4: STORAGE

  • Once the pumpkins are cured choose a dark cool location to store them. 10-16 degrees Celcius.
  • Pumpkins may leak sticky residue from the bottom flower or stem so don’t be alarmed. Also, consider this when choosing a location to store.
  • Ideally place them on cardboard, wood, or plywood. Do NOT store them on carpet, lino, or concrete as this will promote bacteria and moisture.
  • Allow space between the pumpkins and do not stack them to allow airflow.
  • Roll the pumpkins over and check the cardboard for mold regularly.