Radish (Raphanus sativus) are my favourite “filler” plants because they grow quickly and don’t take up much space. Radish are great for filling in the gaps between other plants or sowing alongside them as they will be ready to harvest well before your other vegetables need the space. The whole plant can be eaten root to shoot making it an excellent source of food.
Radish is easy to grow and can be grown for most of the year if given the right environment.
‘Black Spanish Long‘ – Black skin with contrasting white flesh. Fun to grow for something different.Strong flavour. Great fresh or roasted. Harvest 22-60 days.
‘Diakon‘ – Large white radish. Mild flavour. Great for pickling and fermenting. 60cm long. Harvest 30-60 days.
How to Grow Radish
During Spring and Summer find a sunny spot with periods of shade so the Radish doesn’t get too hot and go to flower. In the cooler months of autumn and winter plant your radish in a full sun position. Radish and root vegetables tend to do best when sown directly into the garden. Prepare your soil by adding in compost or composted manure. Free draining soil that is not compact will allow the roots to grow. Wet down the soil first and place your radish seeds 3-4cm apart. Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil just enough to cover the seeds. Water again with a light sprinkle. Keep the soil moist and the seeds should pop up within the first few days.
Radish can also be grown in pots or containers.
I like to plant a few seeds around other vegetables such as cabbage, broccoli etc. The radish will be ready to eat before the other plants have grown big enough to shade them out or need the space. This can help you maximise the space you have to produce food.
When to Plant Radish
All Year round in most locations. In some cold climates, they may not grow in the winter. When growing in summer provide some shade or plant between other plants to offer protection from the midday heat.
Care/ Maintenance
Small radish seedlings can be a delicious snack for your garden pests. Check them regularly when they are young. Radish will benefit from some liquid feed or natural fertilizer such as seaweed solution about two weeks into their growth cycle. Be careful not to get it on the leaves as this can burn the delicate growth.
Pests / Disease
Young Radish will be vulnerable to pests such as slugs, snails, slaters and aphids. Check your seedlings regularly.
How/ When to Harvest
Radish are best picked when they are young or just ready. Leaving radish too long will result in a fibrous texture. After about 4 weeks the roots will start to rise out of the soil and you can harvest the larger ones first. If the bulbs start to split harvest them straight away. Radish will split when they get an excess of water. So it can be a good idea to harvest your radish before big rains.
Reproducing
The best way to reproduce radish is to save the seeds. Let some of your best-looking radishes go to flower and then small seed pods will appear. Let them go until they are starting to go brown and hard. Then harvest the pods and let them dry. The seeds will be inside the pods. Split them open and shake out the tiny seeds into a brown paper bag. Save these somewhere dry and cool to replant.
Cooking and Using Radish
Radish tends to be underutilised in the kitchen. They are great fresh in a salad but there are so many other delicious ways to use your radish harvests.
Learn tips and tricks on how to grow bananas and get abundant harvests. Banana (Musa) are fantastic permaculture plants because they have so many uses both in the garden and the kitchen. Bananas are in fact a perennial herb, not a tree. The bananas grow from a stalk that emerges from the centre of the banana palm.
Bananas come in both full-size and dwarf varieties, allowing you to grow them in both large and small space gardens. Plus, you just can’t beat the flavour of homegrown bananas!
Rich fertile compost and well-drained soil. Mound soil up.
LOCATION
Full sun. Protection from harsh winds.
CARE
Water and feed regularly.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
PESTS
Rodents may attack the fruit.Root rot in wet soils.
HARVEST
9 months +
REPRODUCE
Small “pups” form at the base of the main trunk.
Why Grow Bananas?
Bananas are quick-growing and have many beneficial relationships within the garden. Once you know what conditions bananas thrive in, they are easy to grow.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Bananas:
‘Ladyfinger‘– Popular backyard banana. Small sweeter fruit. Don’t turn brown once cut. Plant size 2-5m tall.
‘Gold Finger‘ – Cross between ladyfinger and Cavendish. High wind resistance. Quickest to fruit. Plant size 2-5m tall.
‘Cavendish – Williams’ – Medium-sized bananas. Popular variety. Thin peel and creamy texture. Plant size 2-5m tall.
‘Blue Java‘ – Cold tolerant variety. Known as the ice cream bananas due to the creamy texture. Plant size 2-5m tall.
‘Red Dacca‘ – Dwarf sized plant. Deep maroon-red peel when ripe. Plant size 2.5m tall.
‘Dwarf Cavendish’ – Smaller version of the Cavendish. Ideal for pots or urban gardens. Plant size 1m tall.
‘Dwarf Ducasse‘ – Dwarf sized plant. Known as the sugar banana due to sweetness. Plant size 1-2m tall.
‘DPM 25‘ – Variety of Cavendish developed to resist Panama disease. Plant size 2-5m tall.
How to Grow Bananas?
Bananas like warm, sunny, sheltered areas. Choose a full sun location with at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Bananas can be damaged by extreme heat, so in some places like Perth, semi-shade may also work well. Bananas are grown from small plants or “pups” so check out which varieties you want to grow and visit your local nurseries. Due to the spread of diseases, there are restrictions in Australia around swapping and trading bananas. Bananas are heavy feeders, so make sure you add lots of compost and composted animal manure into your soil. Make a mound around the base so that the water drains off and the banana has plenty of food.
In permaculture design, bananas are often grown in a banana circle. This way you can add piles of compost, mulch and plant matter to break down and feed all the plants around the circle.
Papaya and root crops such as turmeric and ginger are often planted alongside the bananas to utilise the space. They are also heavy feeders, so make sure there is plenty of compost and plant matter around them. Bananas grow quickly and can be great for preventing soil erosion on sloped blocks.
When to Plant Bananas?
Plant Bananas during the warmer months of spring and summer.
Care/ Maintenance for Bananas
Banana plants are made up of a high percentage of water so they do need adequate moisture to grow. They just don’t like having soggy roots. Well-draining, fertile soil with plenty of mulch or cover crops will help retain moisture.
Bananas want all THE FOOD so regularly feeding of compost, natural fertilisers and mulch can help your bananas thrive.
The leaves will get damaged by winds and turn brown. You can cut these off and lay them at the base of the plants to return nutrients back into the soil.
Pollination/ Fruiting
Bananas send up a flower through the centre of the plant on a spike called the inflorescence. The flowers will have both male and female so you do not need multiple plants for pollination to occur. Once the bananas form, you may need to add support to the bunch to stop the weight from pulling the whole tree down. This will depend on the size and strength of the plan,t and also if you have strong winds or storms.
The small bananas will start to form facing downwards. Once they turn upwards over a few days, it may be beneficial to cover the bunch with a bag. This protects the bananas from birds, bats and other insects.
You can harvest each “hand” of bananas as they start to ripen, or you can remove the whole bunch and hang it somewhere warm and protected to ripen off the tree. I think it’s always best to let the fruit ripen on the tree, but if there are storms coming or birds have found your bunch, then it may be best to remove them.
Bananas only fruit once from each single plant. Once your bananas are ready, you can chop the entire plant down. Cut this up and add to your banana patch as mulch to break down and add nutrients back into the soil.
Pests / Disease
Bananas can be prone to diseases, and due to our high commercial crops here in Australia, there are regulations to help stop the spread of diseases. This includes only purchasing plants from trusted nurseries and not swapping and trading plants around the community.
Bananas are popular among many pests such as birds, bats, rats and fruit flies. Covering the bunch with a banana bag or a recycled plastic bag can help reduce the risk of losing your delicious crop.
How/ When to HarvestBananas
Bananas will be ready to harvest when they:
Are light green to yellow
Have no harsh angles but are rounded and smooth
The flower remnant at the ends of each banana comes off easily
Cut the stalk with at least 20cm at the top to hold and hang
Cut the whole tree down as it will die anyway, and use for mulch
Remove the ripe bananas and hang the main bunch up somewhere cool and dark to continue ripening.
The purple blossom end is also edible. Remove the hard outer leaves to reveal the soft pale centre.
Note:
Remove the bag for hanging and ripening purposes, or they will ripen too quickly.
Ensure they are hung somewhere that pests cannot get to them.
Bananas can be picked when they are still green to use as a savoury “potato” substitute.
Reproducing Bananas
Bananas have been cultivated to have no seeds for optimum eating. The best way to reproduce bananas is to dig up the small suckers or “pups” that start growing from the base of the main stem. Look for suckers that are at least 30cm tall and have narrow sword-like leaves. The broadleaf suckers will still grow but have smaller root systems as they rely on the main plant for water. Use a sharp blade or spade to detach and dig up the side sucker.
Cooking and Using Bananas
Bananas are super versatile and can be used for both sweet and savoury dishes. The banana leaves can also be used as a substitute for baking paper to steam and infuse flavours into meals. This technique is often used for steaming fish or rice. Banana leaves also make great natural platters, plates and serving dishes. Simply compost them after!
Bananas produce in huge abundance and can ripen quicker than you can eat them. Freezing and dehydrating bananas is a quick and easy way to get the most out of your harvest. Below are a few ways to utilise your ripe bananas:
Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) is a popular edible for home gardeners, as they are easy to grow and produce an abundance of food on a single plant. Zucchini can also be grown in pots or grow bags, so they make a fantastic high-yield option for urban gardens.
Zucchini is so versatile and can be used for sweet or savoury dishes and both raw or cooked. The great thing about growing Zucchini is that you will have more than enough to preserve, gift, swap, or trade.
Creating an abundant garden that you can share with your friends, family, and neighbours, is a rewarding and fulfilling way to garden.
Rich compost and composted manure soil. Create soil mounds.
LOCATION
Full sun 6 hours per day.
CARE
Water at the base to prevent mildew on the leaves.
FERTILISE
Feed every 2-3 weeks with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
PESTS
Mildew in humid climates.Rodents may attack the fruit.
HARVEST
Spring and Summer. Usually around 2 months after planting.
REPRODUCE
Save seeds from your best Zucchini at maturity.
Why Grow Zucchini?
Zucchini are quick-growing and can be used to make a wide variety of meals. Zucchini is a great base crop to grow, allowing you to create more meals straight from your garden. Below are just a few reasons to grow your own Zucchini at home.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Zucchini:
Easy to grow
Prolific production on each plant
High in Vitamin A & C
Rich in Antioxidants
Can promote healthy digestion
Edible flowers
Can be eaten raw or cooked
Can be used for sweet or savoury dishes
Absorb flavour easily
Generous crops for gifting, swapping, or trading
Popular Zucchini Varieties
‘Black Beauty‘– Most popular heirloom variety with dark green skin. Prolific, quick-growing, ready to harvest in 7-9 weeks.
‘Long Florence‘ – Italian heirloom with green ribbed skin. Grows larger flowers perfect for stuffing. Ready to harvest in 6-8 weeks.
‘Fordhook‘ – Classic variety with smooth green skin with light speckles. High yield. Ready to harvest in 6-8 weeks.
‘Costata Romenesco‘ – Italian heirloom variety with pale green ribs and speckles. Looks like a star when sliced. Quick growing, ready to harvest in 6 weeks.
‘Lebanese‘ – Pale green or ‘grey’ variety. Sweet flavour. Best picked small. 8 weeks to harvest.
‘Golden‘ – Bright yellow/golden variety. Great for summer BBQs or baking. Ready to harvest in 9 weeks.
‘Ronde de Nice‘ – French heirloom variety. Small round fruits with green skin. Great for stuffing. Bruise easily so you don’t see these available at the shops often. Ready to harvest in 8 weeks.
How to Grow Zucchini
Zucchini grow in a large low structure and do take up quite a lot of space in the garden due to their large leaves. Choose a full sun location with at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Zucchini can also be grown in pots and containers.
Zucchini are warm-loving plants and can be damaged by frosts. It may be best to plant your seeds in small pots or seed trays until your last frost has passed. Otherwise, Zucchini grow best sown directly into the soil. Plant your seeds as per the packet instruction as each variety and climate will have different growing suggestions. Once your seedlings have 4-5 leaves and your likelihood of frosts has passed, plant your seedlings in free-draining soil with plenty of compost. If you are growing Zucchini in garden beds, create small mounds of soil to plant your Zucchini seedlings on top of. Plant each seedling at least 1m apart.
When to Plant Zucchini
Plant Zucchini seeds directly in the soil during spring and summer. For early crops you can plant seeds inside in seed trays and plant outside once your last frost has finished.
Care/ Maintenance
Zucchini are heavy feeders, so it can be helpful to feed your plants with liquid seaweed or garden fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.
Mulch around your plants to protect the soil and retain moisture. Water your Zucchini at the base to avoid getting the leaves wet, as Zucchini can be prone to powdery mildew. Watering in the morning can also help to prevent this, as the leaves will have time to dry out and not sit wet for too long. If you do see white powdery mildew, remove the affected leaves and make up an organic spray with a mix of 9 parts water to 1 part milk. Spray this over the Zucchini leaves.
It can be beneficial to remove the older leaves at the base of the plant to increase airflow and prevent moisture from sitting around too long. Use sharp and clean secateurs to reduce the spread of any diseases.
Some plants may need staking or support as they grow.
Pollination/ Fruiting
Zucchini produce both male and female flowers on each plant for pollination. Our bees do a fantastic job at pollinating, so planting flowers nearby will help to encourage plenty of pollinators to your garden.
If your Zucchini are not reaching maturity and seem to shrivel and die prematurely, this may be due to a lack of pollination. You can manually pollinate your flowers by using a small paintbrush to dust the pollen of the male flower’s stamen (single flower with no baby Zucchini forming) to the female flower Stigma (flower with a baby Zucchini at the base). This can help boost your success rate and grow more Zucchini. This can also be achieved by picking a male flower, removing the petals, and using the pollen-covered stamen to transfer pollen to the female flowers. If you do notice pollination issues be sure to plant lots more flowers in between your plants to attract more bees.
Another reason your fruit may be dying off could be due to blossom end rot. This will cause the end of the Zucchini to go brown and start to rot before reaching maturity. This is due to a number of factors such as lack of calcium in the soil, feeder roots being cut or damaged, and most commonly, inconstant watering. During hot, dry periods, it is important to keep a regular watering schedule. Anautomatic timer will come in very useful. Mulching will also help retain moisture.
Pests / Disease
Zucchini is relatively pest-resistant. Protect young seedlings from slugs and snails. They can get some fungal diseases in humid weather. It is important not to wet the leaves to prevent powdery mildew from forming. If you do start to see some powdery mildew, remove the leaves (if it is only a few) or create a spray of 1 part milk to 9parts water and spray over the affected area. Once the fruits start to mature be aware of rodents or other animals finding your harvests.
How/ When to Harvest
Harvest your Zucchini when they are small (15-20cm long) and often. This will encourage your plant to produce more and more fruit. Use sharp secateurs to avoid accidentally ripping the entire plant out or snapping off part of your Zucchini.
Zucchini grow very quickly once the plant is established, so you may need to check every day or every other day for new produce.
If you want to harvest Zucchini flowers for eating, choose the male flowers. Otherwise, you will be reducing the number of Zucchini you get from each plant. Be sure to leave some male flowers for pollination, or harvest your flowers after manually pollinating the female flowers.
Reproducing
Zucchini seeds are the easiest way to reproduce. Let 1-2 of your best-looking Zucchini grow to maturity (until the skin is hard and cannot be broken with your fingernail). This will be when the seeds are mature and ready to harvest. Wash the flesh off the seeds and allow them to dry before storing it in a cool, dry, dark space.
Cooking and Using Zucchini
There are so many ways to use Zucchini and with just one plant, you will have plenty of opportunities to try many of them out! Below are just a few of the many ways to cook and preserve your abundant Zucchini harvests.
Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) is easy to grow in home gardens and provides large amounts of delicious fruit. Sweet and bursting with juice, watermelons provide us with a delicious and hydrating summer treat. Watermelons grow on a vine and can trail along the ground or can also be grown vertically with extra support for their heavy fruit. This makes them a great addition to any home garden.
Rich compost and composted manure soil. Create soil mounds.
LOCATION
Full sun 6-8+ hours per day.
CARE
Young plants need regular watering.Water at the base to prevent mildew on the leaves.
FERTILISE
Feed every 2-3 weeks with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
PESTS
Mildew in humid climates.Rodents may attack mature fruit.
HARVEST
Late Summer. Usually around 3 months after planting.
REPRODUCE
Save seeds from your best watermelons.
Why Grow Watermelon?
Watermelon is bursting full of sweet, delicious, and hydrating food. Nature’s way of providing us with refreshing and nutritious energy for the long, hot summer days. Although they do need plenty of water to grow abundant crops, watermelon can do well in hot, dry climates.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Watermelon:
Low maintenance
Drought tolerant
Pest resistant
Creates diversity in the garden
Abundant, sweet, juicy fruit
Can be grown along the ground or vertically
Can be used for sweet or savoury dishes
Make your own garden treats
Hydration
Vitamin C & A
Antioxidants
Animal Feed
Popular Watermelon Varieties
‘Sugar Baby’– Abundant red flesh Heirloom variety. Compact fruit with matte green hard outer skin to prevent splitting. 10-week harvest. 4 Fruit per plant. 3kg per fruit.
‘Moon & Stars’ – Heirloom pinky-red flesh variety with yellow “stars” over the fruit and leaves and one large “moon” speck. Thich skin to prevent splitting. 14- week harvest. 3-4 fruit per plant. 25kg per fruit.
‘Crimson Sweet (War Paint)’ – Very popular with deep red flesh and white paint-like stripes on the skin. 12-week harvest. 10kg per fruit.
‘Candy Red (Charleston Grey) – Heirloom. Large oval fruits with deep red flesh. Light green skin. 15+ week harvest. 15kg fruit.
‘Bush Jubilee’ – Old variety with red flesh and green striped skin. High sugar content. Compact bushy vine, great for small space gardening. 14-week harvest. 5kg fruit.
‘Blacktail Mountain’ – Large round fruit with red flesh. Dark green skin. Extra Sweet. Great for colder climates. 15-week harvest. 4 fruit per plant. 5kg per fruit.
‘Sweet Siberian’ – Heirloom with a green outer skin and sweet orange flesh. Great for colder climates. 10-weeks harvest. 5 fruit per plant. 4kg per fruit.
‘Golden Midget’ – Skin turns yellow when ripe. Sweet red flesh. Prefers warmer climates. 14-week harvest. 7 fruit per plant. 2.5kg per fruit.
How to Grow Watermelon
Watermelon likes a full sun location, with approximately 6-8 hours of sunlight. Plant seeds when daily temperatures start to average 20-25 degrees Celsius per day (less for colder varieties). Watermelon does not like their roots being disturbed. So if possible planting them directly in the ground can be beneficial. Create 30cm high mounds of soil using rich compost and composted manure. Plant your seeds 1 inch deep on the top or plant your seedlings if you have germinated inside.
When to Plant Watermelon
Plant your watermelon seeds from Spring to early Summer. Watermelon can take a while to produce so it is a good idea to get them in the ground early. As soon as temperatures average 20-25 degrees Celcius.
Care/ Maintenance
Young watermelon plants will need regular watering. Especially in the height of summer. The leaves will curl up and notify you that they are too dry. Avoid watering the leaves as this can allow powdery mildew to form. It can be a great idea to put a stick or marker where you plant the seeds. Once the plant is established, it can be hard to see where the main stem and roots are to water correctly. Placing a marker will help you water the correct part of the plant for maximum efficiency. Cover your soil with mulch – pea straw or lucerne can be a great option as it will start to break down and feed your plants.
Feed your plants regularly (every 2 weeks or so) with a liquid seaweed fertiliser for an extra boost of nutrients.
Heavy rain or excess watering when the fruit is nearing maturity, may cause the melon to crack open. Keep an eye on your ripening melons.
Watermelon can also be grown vertically! Especially the smaller fruiting varieties. Plant them near a trellis or frame and move the vines as they grow to latch onto the frame. They have strong tendrils that will hold them in place. Once the fruit starts to form you may need to support the weight so that they do not snap and fall. A mini hammock under the melon using a stretchy, breathable fabric such as a stocking can be useful.
Pollination/ Fruiting
Watermelons require pollination from a male to a female flower to form fruit. If you have plenty of bees in your garden, they should be able to do this for you. If you notice small watermelons forming and then dying off, this may mean you have a pollination problem. This can be aided by using a small paintbrush to dust the pollen of the male flower (single flower with no baby melon forming) to a female flower (flower with a baby melon at the base). This can help boost your success rate and grow more watermelon. Be sure to plant lots more flowers in between your plants to attract the bees if you ever have pollination problems.
Pests / Disease
Watermelon is relatively pest-resistant. They can get some fungal diseases in humid weather. It is important not to wet the leaves to prevent powdery mildew from forming. If you do start to see some powdery mildew, remove the leaves (if it is only a few) or create a spray of 1 part milk to 9 parts water and spray over the affected area. Once the fruits start to mature be aware of rodents or other animals finding your fruit.
How/ When to Harvest
Harvesting watermelon can be tricky! And devastating when you get it wrong (be prepared it may happen from time to time..). Under-ripe watermelon will be bland and lack flavour, whereas, over-ripe watermelon will be floury and granular.
Some ways to determine if your watermelon is ready:
Look for the curly tendrils closest to the watermelon stem. They should turn brown and dry when the watermelon is ready.
A light knock on the watermelon, it should sound slightly hollow when ready.
Carefully roll the melon over and the part that was touching the ground should be turning yellow.
Reproducing
Watermelon seeds are the easiest way to reproduce watermelon. Choose seeds from your best mature melons. Wash off the flesh and allow it to dry before storing it in a cool, dry, dark space. Watermelon can also be grown from cuttings. Do this early in the season otherwise, the vine will not have enough time to produce before the weather gets cold. Cut a 10cm piece of a side shoots off. You want to let the main leader vine grow so do not cut this. Cut just below a leaf as this is where the roots will form. Place in a jar of water until you see some roots form. Then plant it back out into the garden. This is more for a bit of fun as you will get the best crops from direct-sown seeds.
Cooking and Using Watermelon
Watermelon is so delicious eaten fresh but there are many other ways to prepare watermelon to use in both sweet or savoury dishes.
Watermelon Pairs well with: Mint, Lime, Basil, Citrus, Red Onion, Feta Cheese, Coconut, Yoghurt, Almonds, Jalapeno, Haloumi, Ginger
Watermelon ideas:
Fruit salad
Juice
Iceblocks
Salads
“Chips” or “Wedges” with dipping sauce
Fruit kebabs
Watermelon jerky
Grilled watermelon
Cocktails
Serving Bowls using the skin/shell
Cocktails and Mocktails
Carvings
Sorbet
Watermelon Cake
Flavoured Water
Salsa
Fruit leather
Syrup
Preserving the Harvest
Watermelon is best eaten cold and fresh but sometimes we can’t keep up with their generous yields. Dehydrated watermelon is a great way to use up a lot of extra watermelons. Watermelon jerky is extremely sweet and could make a good substitute for natural lollies. Other ways you could preserve your watermelon are Freezing cubes, juicing and freezing cubes or making syrup or chutney.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a fragrant perennial herb. Rosemary is a hardy, drought tolerant shrub and can also be used as an ornamental due to its evergreen foliage and purple or white edible flowers. Rosemary is a great herb to plant on your journey to sustainability, as it has a large list of beneficial uses for the garden, home, kitchen, plus many medicinal qualities. When Rosemary flowers it will attract an abundance of beneficial pollinators to increase your gardens production.
Full sun 6-8 hours per day. Cold climates -move it to a warmer spot in winter.
CARE
Water at base – dont over water. Keep well mulched. Prune early Spring to encourage new growth.
FERTILISE
Spring and Autumn with seaweed solution or an organic slow release fertilizer.
PESTS
Aphids, white fly, scale, mealybugs. Mildew in humid climates.
HARVEST
Anytime of the year.
REPRODUCE
Cuttings are the easiest and quickest way to reproduce.
Why Grow Rosemary?
Rosemary offers so many beneficial relationships within your garden. Rosemary is a hardy, drought tolerant, ever green perennial herb. A fantastic staple to have growing in any edible garden. Rosemary also has many healing properties, so it is a handy plant to have near the house or in a kitchen garden.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Rosemary:
Low maintenance
Drought tolerant
Pest resistant
Attracts Pollinators
Creates diversity in the garden
Evergreen herbs
Edible flowers and leaves
Adds flavour to your meals
Great for skin care and healing
Anti-inflammatory properties
Boosts mental clarity and focus
Improves digestion
Aids in hair growth
Calming and therapeutic qualities
Popular Rosemary Varieties
‘Arp Rosemary’– Large sturdy shrub. Purple -blue flowers. Grows 1.5m high and 1m wide. Cold hardy. Popular for skewers.
‘Gorza’ – Tall upright shrub. Leaves are twice as big as other varieties. Large light purple flowers. Popular with Chefs. Can handle humid locations.
‘Salem’ – Medium sized upright shrub originating from Auckland, New Zealand. Deep Blue Flowers. Grows 1.5m tall and 1m wide. Popular for hedging.
‘Pink Remembrance – Small-Medium sized shrub. Light pink flowers. Grows 1m tall to 80cm wide. Can handle cold climates, wind, salt and dry soils. Popular for pots or cottage gardens.
‘Huntingdon Carpet’ – Low lying or cascading Rosemary. Bright blue flowers. Grow 30-60cm tall. Popular for rock walls or pots.
‘Tuscan Blue’ – Tall upright plant. Light blue-purple flowers. Grows 1.5m tall x 1.5m wide. Popular topiary or hedge. Can handle coastal environments.
‘Blue Lagoon’ – Compact trailing/ cascading plant. Deep blue- purple flowers speckled with white. Grows 1m tall to 1m wide. Popular for rock walls. Can handle coastal environments.
‘Golden Rain’ – The most densely compact variety. Leaves turn a golden colour during winter then back to green in summer. Light blue flowers. Grows 60-90cm high and wide.
‘White Flowering’ – Short dark green, needle shaped leaves. Curved branching form. White flowers give the appearance of snow fall.
How to Grow Rosemary
Rosemary likes a full sun location, with approximately 6-8 hours of sunlight. Rosemary is a hardy, drought tolerant plant that grows well in poor soils. Rosemary doesn’t like having wet feet, so free-draining soil is important. In humid areas, select a variety such as the ‘Gorza’. Before planting, add in a layer of compost and mulch around the base after planting.
When to Plant Rosemary
Plant Rosemary in Spring after the last frost has past.
Care/ Maintenance
Rosemary can get root rot if it gets too much water, so ensure the soil has had time to dry out between watering. Feed with liquid seaweed or plant fertiliser every few months for improved results. Pruning Rosemary regularly will help keep it compact and fresh. Older branches tend to go woody and sparse over time. Prune after it has finished flowering and remove no more than 1/3 of the plant at a time. You can then use your trimmings to make new plants!
Pests / Disease
Rosemary is a hardy plant but it can suffer from a few pests and diseases from time to time. In humid areas Rosemary can get powdery mildew and root rot. To prevent this, water only at the base and not the leaves. Let the soil dry out before watering and ensure the soil is free-draining. Prune to allow good airflow. Aphids, white fly, scale and mealy bugs may also effect your Rosemary. It is best to catch these pests early and you may be able to blast them off with the hose or try a natural spray such as chilli and garlic. A mix of natural dish detergent and water can also help remove them.
How/ When to Harvest
Harvest and use your Rosemary all year round. Use sharp secateurs to allow new growth to form easily.
Reproducing
Rosemary is very easy to reproduce from cuttings. Choose a semi-hard wood section (not the soft new growth and not the thick hard stems – somewhere in the middle. You can cut that portion down). Cut lengths of 10-15cm and strip the bottom half of the leaves off. Then either place in a jar of water to sprout roots or place directly in a pot of soil. Ensure the pot is kept well watered while they sprout roots.
Cooking and Using Rosemary
Rosemary is such a versatile herb and works well with both sweet and savoury dishes. Rosemary has a pungent, pine like aroma.
Rosemary can be preserved by drying see preserving herbs. The great thing about drying Rosemary, is that it reduces in size dramatically. So a massive basket of Rosemary can be condensed into a single jar. It can also be blitz with salt to make delicious Rosemary finishing salt. This is an easy way to add extra flavour to your dishes. Rosemary can also be added to oils and vinegars to infuse.
Edible flowers offer so many beneficial relationships within a home garden. When creating a sustainable permaculture garden, everything should have multiple functions and uses. The more the better! Edible flowers not only look beautiful, but they also aid in pollination, provide food and habitat to beneficial insects for pest management, add diversity to the soil and provide food, and in some cases, offer medicinal qualities for us.
Without adequate pollination, crops may be smaller, less abundant or may not produce at all. So, it is important that we attract pollinators to our gardens to increase yields along with the quality of produce.
Note: not all flowers are edible. Make sure you identify them correctly. Do not eat flowers from florists or areas unknown, as they may have been sprayed with pesticides. The safest option is to grow your own.
Pick your edible flowers in the morning but after the sun has come up. First thing in the morning the flowers will still be closed, so wait until they fully open up. They will be at their best in the morning, full of life and well-hydrated. If you are serving them fresh, pick your edible flowers as close to serving time as possible. Otherwise, place stems in a jar of water or keep in a moistened towel somewhere cool.
