Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) is a fast-growing, nitrogen-fixing shrub that thrives in poor soil conditions while providing multiple benefits to the garden. Whether you’re looking for a hardy pioneer plant, a nutritious food source, or an effective soil builder, pigeon pea is a must-have in any sustainable garden or food forest.
Are you struggling with poor sandy soil and crispy plants from not enough summer shade? Then keep reading because this easy-to-grow edible plant could be the answer!
Benefits of Growing Pigeon Pea in a Permaculture Garden
1. Pigeon Pea Improves Soil Health
Pigeon pea is an excellent nitrogen fixer, meaning it naturally enriches the soil by pulling nitrogen from the air and making it available to other plants. This is especially valuable in poor, sandy soils where organic matter is often lacking. Additionally, its deep taproot helps break up compacted soil, improving aeration and water retention. It is a great plant to grow in newly established gardens where soil quality is low.
2. Creates Dappled Shade
This shrub grows quickly and provides light, dappled shade that protects lower-growing plants from harsh sun exposure. This makes it an excellent companion plant for young fruit trees and vegetable crops that benefit from reduced heat stress.
3. Attracts Beneficial Insects & Pollinators
The bright yellow flowers of pigeon pea are highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These pollinators help increase biodiversity in your garden and improve the yield of surrounding fruiting plants.
4. Nutritious & Versatile Edible Crop
Pigeon peas are a rich source of protein, carbohydrates, and fiber, making them a valuable addition to a self-sufficient diet. They can be eaten in various ways:
Fresh in salads
Steamed like edamame
Cooked in stews and curries
Made into burger patties
Dried and stored for long-term use
Not only are pigeon peas beneficial for human consumption, but they also make excellent high-protein animal feed.
5. Provides Abundant Biomass & Mulch
Pigeon pea produces a significant amount of organic material that can be cut back and used as mulch. This helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and build healthy soil over time. Regular pruning encourages new growth and keeps the plant productive.
6. Windbreak & Habitat for Wildlife
This shrub can be grown as a hedge to provide wind protection for more delicate plants. It also creates shelter for small birds and insects, enhancing the overall ecosystem of your garden.
7. Pioneer Plant for New Gardens
Pigeon pea is an ideal “pioneer” species for establishing new gardens. This means it helps pave the way for establishing more valuable long-term crops. It offers:
Fast-growing shade
Nutrient-rich mulch
Green material for composting
Pollinator attraction
Wind protection
Thrives in poor soil
Drought tolerant
It is a short-lived perennial, typically lasting 4-5 years, making it perfect for supporting other plants in the early stages of a food forest or permaculture system. As your garden grows and your main fruit tree crops start to get established you can prune back and remove the Pigeon Pea to make room. With so much seed available you will be able to re-grow more plants in other areas of the garden.
How to Grow Pigeon Pea
Pigeon PeaPlanting & Soil Requirements
Thrives in well-draining soil, including poor, sandy soil
Pigeon Pea prefers full sun but can grow in semi-shade positions
Drought-tolerant once established
Grows well from seed planted directly in the ground
Doesn’t like frosts, but can be grown as an annual crop in cooler climates
Doesn’t like wet feet as this can cause the roots to rot. Plant on mounded soil to help improve drainage in wet areas.
Maintenance & Care
Minimal care is required once established
Benefits from regular pruning to encourage bushy growth and biomass production. It also helps with the ease of harvesting peas at a more manageable height.
Pigeon Pea can be interplanted with fruit trees, vegetables, or other nitrogen-demanding plants
Harvesting & Usage
Harvest fresh peas when pods are still green
Leave pods to dry on the plant for long-term storage of dried peas
Regular pruning ensures continuous production and plant health
Pigeon Pea Permaculture
This pioneer plant is an invaluable addition to any permaculture garden, offering multiple benefits such as soil improvement, food production, pollinator support, and natural wind protection. Whether you’re starting a new garden or enhancing an existing one, this resilient shrub will help create a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem.
Start growing Pigeon Pea today and enjoy its many rewards in your sustainable garden!
Add a little bit of flair to your desserts, baked treats, or cocktails with these sparkly, sweet candied mint leaves. They’re beautiful, easy to make, and add a delicate crunch with a refreshing minty finish. Perfect for when you want something a little special to top a cake, tart, pavlova, or even a fancy iced drink.
Mint on its own can sometimes be a little overpowering, but candying softens that intense bite while preserving all the aromatic freshness. The sugar balances the strength of the mint, leaving you with a light, sweet leaf that melts in your mouth and looks stunning as a garnish.
How to Make Candied Mint Leaves
All you need are a few fresh mint leaves, some egg white (or aquafaba for a vegan version), and a sprinkle of caster sugar. Simply coat each leaf in a bit of frothy egg white, dust with sugar on both sides, and let them dry for several hours until crisp. I like to leave mine on baking paper in a switched-off dehydrator or a warm, dry spot in the kitchen. They’re best made the night before and can be stored in an airtight container for a day or two.
Candied mint leaves are a great way to use up any extra mint growing in the garden, especially when it starts to take over. You can also try this method with other edible leaves like lemon balm or even tiny herb leaves for a twist.
They’re not just decorative—they’re delicious! Whether you’re topping an avocado chocolate tart, dressing up a fruit salad, or adding charm to a summer cocktail, these little leaves add a handmade, whimsical touch that’s sure to impress.
Candied Mint Leaves
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 6 hours
Total Time: 6 hours10 minutes
Sweet and minty these candied mint leaves are a delicious addition to decorate baking or cocktails.
Ingredients
10 + Mint leaves*
1 Egg White or Aquafaba (chickpea water)
Caster Sugar
Instructions
Whisk egg white until frothy.
Prepare a tray with baking paper.
Lightly coat the mint leaves in egg white by dipping them in and wiping off excess on the edge of the bowl.
Sprinkle both sides with sugar and place on the baking paper tray.
Allow to rest at room temperature for 6 hours + or overnight. I stored them in my dehydrator (switched off) to keep any bugs off.
Store in an airtight container and use within a day or two.
Notes
* Try with edible flowers or other herbs such as pineapple sage
Garden to Plate Magic
Candied mint leaves are a simple yet elegant way to elevate your homemade treats. With just a few ingredients and a bit of drying time, you can transform humble garden mint into a beautiful garnish that looks impressive and tastes delicious. Whether you’re making them for a special occasion or just to enjoy some creative time in the kitchen, they’re a fun way to celebrate what’s growing in your garden.
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Learn how to grow Avocado (Persea americana) at home and what to make with your abundant avocado crops! Avocado is a popular fruit that can be a little tricky to grow. Choosing the right variety for your climate and getting some key care points right should have you picking homegrown avocados for years to come!
Avocados can be used as evergreen shade trees or grown in pots for urban areas. Avocado trees can reach heights of 12+ meters if they are not pruned. Smaller dwarf trees will reach maximum heights of around 4 meters, but can also be pruned to keep them smaller.
Avocados are best grown from grafted trees. Growing an Avocado from seed can take anywhere from 4 to 13 years or longer to get fruit. Even then, you have no idea what the fruit will be like, as it will not be identical to the plant the seed came from. Grafted trees have mature fruiting stems grafted onto allow the tree to bear fruit within a year or two.
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Mounded above ground in clay soil.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.Can benefit from afternoon shade.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well-mulched.Protect from wind and hot afternoon sun when young.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and mulch.
PESTS
Excess water and fungal diseases are the most common cause. Rats may eat the fruit.
HARVEST
Fruit takes about 1 year on the tree to ripen. Skin goes dull and some may drop from the tree.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but may take 10+ years to fruit. Mature wood grafted from fruiting-age trees is best.
Why Grow Your Own Avocado?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Avocados.
Evergreen shade-giving tree
Perennial crops
It can be expensive to buy!
Can be used in sweet and savoury dishes
Prolific producer
Long harvests
High in vitamin E and folate
High in fibre
Substitute for butter
Popular Avocado Varieties to Grow
Avocados come in A and B varieties. Each type flowers has male and female at different times of the day. Having both an A and a B-type Avocado will mean you will get more avocados due to an increase in pollination. Most avocados will be self-fertile, but having a second will increase the amount you get. Dwarf or semi-dwarf avocados will grow to be smaller trees, but unlike other dwarf fruit trees, they will still be up to 4m high. Keeping them pruned can maintain their size.
Type (A) Varieties
Hass – Popular small dark-skinned avocado. Most commonly found in stores due to its tough skin for transport. Small fruit, a great producer.
Reed – Large green round fruit 200-800 grams. Mild and buttery flavour. The tree tends to grow upright rather than outwards.
Choquette – Large green round fruit weighing over 1kg! Creamy, rich flesh. A cross between a Guatemalan and a West Indian type.
Semi Dwarf
Lamb Hass – Large dark-skinned avocado. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Late-season fruits.
Pinkerton – Medium-sized green-skinned fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. High oil content.
Wurtz – Medium-sized green pear-shaped fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Weeping branches that hang downward.
Type (B) Varieties
Shepard – Popular commercial variety. Green skin and yellow firm flesh. Smaller tree size 6-8 metres.
Bacon – Most cold-tolerant variety (may survive -5 degrees). Large pear-shaped fruit with green skin.
Fuerte – Small – medium-sized green fruit. Thin skin and buttery flesh. Produces both normal-sized and mini seedless avocados called “cukes”. Crops more biannually (every second season). Vigorous spreading tree.
Zutano – Pear-shaped fruit with green glossy skin. Low oil content and can be quite watery.
Sharwill – Medium-sized oval fruit with green skin. Rich flavour and small seeds. Frost sensitive.
Linda – Large fruit with dark purple skin. Fruits from 400-1100g each. Thick skin that is easy to peel.
TOP TIPS TO GROW AVOCADO
Choose a sunny location
Shelter from the wind or able to create shelter
Prepare the soil with plenty of compost
Free draining is key!
Avocados hate clay soils – mound up above the ground rather than planting down in a hole
Do not disturb roots when removing from the pot!
Protect from the hot afternoon sun
Keep grass and weeds away from the base
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAvocados
Avocados don’t like the cold or the extreme heat, so avoid planting them in winter or summer. Choose a day when the weather will be mild for a few consecutive days.
How to Grow an Avocado
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be protected from winds (shade cloth can help)
Dig a hole and prepare the soil with compost. Mix compost and sandy soil together. For clay soils, backfill with compost and sandy soil, and create a mound above the ground.
Carefully remove the Avocado carefully by cutting the bag or gently easing it from the pot. Try not to disturb roots when possible.
Gently push soil against the root ball and push down with your hands to remove air pockets.
Add a stake to help secure the tree, but do not push it through the root ball.
Add mulch as wide as you can approx 1m but pull back from the trunk so it does not touch (this can cause collar rot)
Add a shelter of shade cloth to the side that gets wind and afternoon hot sun.
Paint any exposed stems with water-based white paint (nontoxic) at a ratio of about 50% paint and 50% water. This acts as sunscreen, which is important for Perth summers!
Care/ Maintenance
Avocados like plenty of food, regular top-ups with compost and mulch are important. The biggest issue with Avocados is too much water, sun or wind.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter, before spring, and end of summer.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer. Push your finger into the soil to the second knuckle; if it comes out dry, water well. If the soil on your finger sticks and is mois,t leave it be.
Harvesting
Avocados, like many fruit trees, should be prevented from fruiting for the first 1-3 years. Wait until the flowers sprout on long stems, then remove them. Once you start letting your Avocado fruit, it will take 1 year from when the fruit sets until it is ready to harvest. Some Avocados stay green when they are ready and ripen off the tree, so here are a few ways to tell if they are ready to pick.
Skin turns from glossy to dull
Stem lightens
It’s within the varieties’ “mature fruit months” (research for your variety and area)
Pick one and let it ripen on the bench for a week or two. If it is delicious and buttery, you can harvest more. If it shrivels and goes black, it is not ready and try again in 2-3 weeks.
Fruit starts falling on the ground.
Pruning
The Avocado tree can grow to be a huge 10 m+ tree if left unpruned. Once your tree reaches 2m or your desired height, you can start pruning it. Be selective and try to remove branches whilst still allowing shade to the other parts of the tree. Try not to remove the bottom “skirt branches” as these protect the stem from being burnt. If once you prune the tree, there are areas of stem exposed, paint with white water-based paint (50:50 water mixed) to add protection.
Pests / Disease
Avocados mainly succumb to bacterial diseases due to excess water. Don’t water the leaves when possible and allow good drainage for the roots.
Reproducing
Seeds from the Avocados can be grown and will produce a new variety. Seed-grown Avocados can take 10+ years to actually fruit, and you never know what the fruit will be like. The best way to reproduce is to grow an Avocado from seed and then graft onto it from a tree that is already fruiting and mature. But also, if you have the room, there is no reason not to try seed-grown as you may end up with an exciting new variety.
Cooking and Using
Avocado is a powerhouse in the kitchen and can be used in a wide array of ways.
Learn how to grow Asparagus and what to make with your abundant harvests. Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial vegetable and is a great long-term investment in your food production. Asparagus grows back each year and can produce for up to 30 years ( or longer). The great thing about Asparagus is it produces edible spears at the start of spring, which is often an “in-between” time in the garden when winter crops have finished and summer crops are not yet ready.
Asparagus does require its own spot in the garden, but it can also be grown successfully in a container garden.
Plant seeds in spring or dormant crowns late winter.
SOIL
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Slightly acidic.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well mulched.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and composted manure late winter after fronts die off.
PESTS
Aphids, snails, slaters.
HARVEST
Harvest spears in spring choose spears thicker than a pencil.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but produce quickerby dividing crowns (roots)
Why Grow Asparagus at Home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Asparagus.
Hardy, low-maintenance vegetable
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Early Spring Harvest
Produces up to 30 years
High in Potassium
Great raw or cooked
Popular Asparagus Varieties to Grow
Mary Washington – Popular open-pollinated variety. Long, tender green spears. White spears can be produced if blocked from light.
Sweet Purple – Dark purple spears with 20% more sugar than the green variety. It is also less fibrous.
TOP TIPS ON HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS
Choose a sunny locationthat can be a permanent home
Prepare soil with plenty of compost and well-composted manure.
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
Grow from crowns for faster production
Feed with high nitrogen or compost at the end of winter before spring growth
Allow spears to grow into ferns for the first 2 years
Harvest the fattest spears and leave thin ones to go to ferns
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAsparagus?
If you are planting Asparagus from seed, sow seeds in Spring. Soak seeds in water for 2+ hours before planting for quicker germination. Seedlings can also be planted in spring. Established crowns should be planted while still dormant in late winter.
How to GrowAsparagus?
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be a permanent home for the next 20+ years.
Be aware of surrounding trees that may grow to overshadow the asparagus patch.
Asparagus-like loose soil that is easy to burst through. Create mounts if you have hard or clay soils.
Prepare beds with plenty of compost and composted manure.
Plant 40cm apart
Give them a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Asparagus comes in both male and female plants. They both produce spears, but the males are said to be of higher quality. The female plants can be identified as they produce berries at the end of the ferns. These berries can be saved and will have seeds inside that can be planted.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter. Remulch with lupin, pea straw or sugarcane.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer.
Harvesting
Asparagus holds its energy in the crowns, so it is important to allow the patch to establish before harvesting. From seed, Asparagus should be left for the first 2-3 years. If growing from crowns, Asparagus can be picked sparingly over the first 1-2 years. Choose the fattest spears at least pencil-width thick. Let the thin spears turn to ferns to conserve energy in the crowns for winter.
Pruning
If left, the spears will turn into tall ferns. This is how the plant conserves energy and repopulates. It’s important to allow this for the first few years. The green ferns will turn yellow and die off during mid-late winter. They can then be pruned and used as mulch or added to the compost. Once pruned, add a fresh layer of compost around the bed and re-mulch. This will keep them warm over winter and add nutrients back to the bed ahead of spring.
Pests / Disease
Aphids, slugs, snails, and slaters may like your young spears. Check plants in early spring. Natural pest management. Spears can also be affected with rust. Allow good airflow.
How/ When to Harvest
Asparagus is ready in early spring. Choose the fattest spears, bigger than pencil width and 20 – 25cm tall. Use a sharp knife and cut just below the soil line. Allow thinner spears to grow into ferns.
Reproducing
Female plants will produce berries at the end of their ferns, which contain seeds. These can be planted to expand your Asparagus patch. Crowns can be split when dormant in winter to create new patches.
Cooking and Using
Asparagus can be eaten raw, cooked or preserved, pickled, and bottled.
Asparagus pairs well with:Mint, peas, rocket, dill, chives, cheese, eggs, cured meats, seafood, strawberry, raspberry, nuts, lemon, and potato
If you grow kumquats, you probably know how prolifically they fruit! These tiny, tangy citrus gems often produce more than you can eat fresh, making them perfect for preserving. Making kumquat jam is one of the best (and most delicious) ways to enjoy your homegrown harvest throughout the year. This easy kumquat jam recipe is a simple, low-waste method that uses natural pectin from the seeds and minimal ingredients—just fruit, water, sugar, and lemon.
Whether you’re new to preserving or a seasoned jam maker, this recipe is a great way to use up a bunch of kumquats and create something delicious to enjoy or gift to friends and family.
Why You Should Make Kumquat Jam
Kumquats are a unique grape-sized citrus fruit with edible skins and a sweet-tart flavor that works beautifully in jams and marmalades. Unlike many other citrus fruits, kumquats can be eaten whole, which means their zest, juice, and skin all contribute to flavour-packed, easy-to-make preserves. This homemade kumquat jam is vibrant, tangy, and great for using in other recipes like my delicious Kumquat Jam and custard scrolls! (a must try)
Another bonus? You don’t need to buy pectin. Kumquat seeds contain natural pectin, which helps the jam set, so this is a great way to make a more natural jam using what you already have.
Simple Ingredients for Homemade Kumquat Jam
4 cups chopped kumquats (seeds reserved)
5 cups water
1½ cups sugar
½ lemon (juice)
Kumquat Jam
Yield: 3 jars
Prep Time: 4 hours30 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours55 minutes
Kumquat jam is a great way to use and preserve your harvests. Add this jam to pikelets or baking for a delicious citrus flavour.
Ingredients
4 cups chopped Kumquats
5 cups of water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 lemon
Instructions
Wash and chop your Kumquats and keep the seeds as you will need them to use as natural pectin.
Place the Kumquats and water in a pot.
Get all your seeds and make a little bag from cheesecloth or in a strainer. You want the seeds to be submerged in the water but not dispersed throughout as you will be discarding them later. Let the seeds and kumquats sit in the water for 4hrs to release the natural pectin. Remove the seeds and discard.
Place a saucer or plate in the freezer to test your jam out at the end.
Bring the pot to a simmer for 30mins. Add in the sugar and stir. Bring the pot to boil for 5min.
Test your jam by putting droplets onto your frozen plate. They should thicken as you run the end of a spoon through the droplet to check. If it doesn't look like it is set add some fresh lemon juice, reheat, and stir. Test again. I repeated this a couple of times and it started to look set.
Spoon hot mixture into hot jars (heat mine in the oven to sterilise 120 degrees for 15 mins and the lids in a bowl of boiling water).
Turn the jars upside down to cool and help the lids seal.
Refrigerate and enjoy.
How to Make Kumquat Jam (Step-by-Step)
1. Prep Your Kumquats
Wash your kumquats thoroughly. Chop them up and be sure to collect the seeds as you go. You’ll need the seeds later to extract the natural pectin that helps the jam thicken.
2. Create a Pectin Bag
Place the chopped kumquats and water into a large pot. Take your reserved seeds and place them into a small cheesecloth bag or a metal strainer. This step is important—you want the seeds to soak in the water but not disperse throughout the jam, as you’ll be removing them later.
Let the pot sit for around 4 hours at room temperature. This resting time allows the seeds to release their pectin into the water naturally.
3. Remove Seeds & Begin Cooking
After 4 hours, remove and discard the seeds. Place a small saucer or plate in your freezer (this will help you test if the jam is set later).
Bring your pot of kumquats and water to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Then stir in the sugar and bring the mixture to a rolling boil for 5 minutes.
4. Test for Set
Remove your plate from the freezer and spoon a few drops of the jam onto the cold surface. Wait a few seconds, then run the edge of a spoon through it. If the jam wrinkles or holds its shape, it’s ready. If not, add the juice of ½ a lemon, stir, and boil for another minute or two. Repeat the test until the jam is set.
5. Jar Your Jam
Sterilise your jars ahead of time by placing them in a 120°C (250°F) oven for 15 minutes. Soak the lids in boiling water. Once your jam is ready, spoon the hot mixture into the hot jars and seal them while hot. I like to turn my jars upside down as they cool to help them seal.
How to Store Your Kumquat Jam
Once cooled, store your jam in the fridge. Properly sterilised and sealed jars can last several months in the fridge or a cool pantry. Opened jars should be used within a few weeks.
Delicious Ways to Use Kumquat Jam
Spread on toast or scones
Swirled into yogurt or porridge
As a glaze on roast vegetables or meats
Paired with cheese on a grazing board
Layered in cakes or desserts
Making your own jams/ preserves is a rewarding way to reduce waste, use seasonal fruit, and add something homemade and flavourful to your pantry. If you’re growing kumquats, give this small-batch kumquat jam recipe a try. You’ll love the sweet, tangy flavor and the satisfaction of creating a garden-to-table treat with your garden’s harvest.
Learn how to grow Kumquat trees at home and what to make with your harvests with this ultimate guide! Kumquats (Citrus japonica and hybrids) or Cumquats are very ornamental citrus that produce masses of small fruit. Kumquats can be eaten straight from the tree, with the skin being edible too. They make beautiful, abundant additions to the garden, especially if you like jams and marmalades.
Kumquats are evergreen and provide dense bushy foliage, which makes them great for wind protection or screening.
Can be grown by seed but may differ from the parent plant.
Why Grow Kumquats at home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kumquat
Hardy, low-maintenance fruit tree
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Dense busy shrub
Grows well in pots and containers
The whole fruit is edible
Great for making jams and preserves
Popular Kumquat Varieties
Nagami – Japanese variety with small oval-shaped fruit. Bright orange when ready. Sweet skin and tart flesh. 1-2 seeds in each fruit.
Meiwa – Larger round orange fruits. Sweet skin and flesh. A hybrid of Nagami and Marumi varieties.
Marumi – Round fruits that are quite sour or tart. Mainly used for preserving.
Variegated Kumquat – Stand out ornamental variegated leaves and fruit. Variegation disappears on fruit usually once ripe. Also known as Calamondin or Calamansi.
TOP TIPS TO GROW KUMQUAT
Choose a sunny location
Mulcharound the base (avoid touching the trunk)
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
When to PlantKumquat
Ideally, plant your trees in Spring or Autumn. If you are growing in containers, protect new plants from extreme heat or cold.
How to GrowKumquat
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Dig a hole twice as big as the pot and loosen the roots if they are tightly bound.
Free-draining soil with compost.
Mulch to regulate temperatures and reduce weeds.
Give it a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Feeding
Feed with compost or liquid fertilisers in late winter after fruiting.
Watering
Deep water especially in summer.
Pruning
Prune after fruiting for shape. This can make it denser and bushier. Always check and remove growth below the graft.
The great thing about growing Kumquats is that they can last a long time ripe on the tree. This makes them really beautiful and ornamental and gives you time to preserve the fruit in batches. The fruit is ready when it is rich in colour. It can be a good idea to harvest using scissors or snips as the branches are thin and can rip or break if you pull the fruit off.
Reproducing
Kumquats often have 1-2 seeds inside. These can be grown, but results can vary but why not give it a try! Most citrus are grafted onto rootstock for disease resistance.
Cooking and Using
Kumquats fruit prolifically, so it’s a good idea to have a few recipes on hand. The great thing is that you don’t need to peel them as the skin is edible too!
Kumquats can be made into jams, chutney, marmalade, and relish. They can also be preserved whole in salt or liquor. Dehydrating slices is another easy way to preserve the harvest.
