Learn how to grow Avocado (Persea americana) at home and what to make with your abundant avocado crops! Avocado is a popular fruit that can be a little tricky to grow. Choosing the right variety for your climate and getting some key care points right should have you picking homegrown avocados for years to come!
Avocados can be used as evergreen shade trees or grown in pots for urban areas. Avocado trees can reach heights of 12+ meters if they are not pruned. Smaller dwarf trees will reach maximum heights of around 4 meters, but can also be pruned to keep them smaller.
Avocados are best grown from grafted trees. Growing an Avocado from seed can take anywhere from 4 to 13 years or longer to get fruit. Even then, you have no idea what the fruit will be like, as it will not be identical to the plant the seed came from. Grafted trees have mature fruiting stems grafted onto allow the tree to bear fruit within a year or two.
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Mounded above ground in clay soil.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.Can benefit from afternoon shade.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well-mulched.Protect from wind and hot afternoon sun when young.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and mulch.
PESTS
Excess water and fungal diseases are the most common cause. Rats may eat the fruit.
HARVEST
Fruit takes about 1 year on the tree to ripen. Skin goes dull and some may drop from the tree.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but may take 10+ years to fruit. Mature wood grafted from fruiting-age trees is best.
Why Grow Your Own Avocado?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Avocados.
Evergreen shade-giving tree
Perennial crops
It can be expensive to buy!
Can be used in sweet and savoury dishes
Prolific producer
Long harvests
High in vitamin E and folate
High in fibre
Substitute for butter
Popular Avocado Varieties to Grow
Avocados come in A and B varieties. Each type flowers as male and female at different times of the day. Having both an A and a B-type Avocado will mean you will get more avocados due to an increase in pollination. Most avocados will be self-fertile, but having a second will increase the amount you get. Dwarf or semi-dwarf avocados will grow to be smaller trees, but unlike other swarf fruit trees, they will still be up to 4m high. Keeping them pruned can maintain their size.
Type (A) Varieties
Hass – Popular small dark-skinned avocado. Most commonly found in stores due to its tough skin for transport. Small fruit, a great producer.
Reed – Large green round fruit 200-800 grams. Mild and buttery flavour. The tree tends to grow upright rather than outwards.
Choquette – Large green round fruit weighing over 1kg! Creamy, rich flesh. A cross between a Guatemalan and a West Indian type.
Semi Dwarf
Lamb Hass – Large dark-skinned avocado. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Late-season fruits.
Pinkerton – Medium-sized green-skinned fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. High oil content.
Wurtz – Medium-sized green pear-shaped fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Weeping branches that hang downward.
Type (B) Varieties
Shepard – Popular commercial variety. Green skin and yellow firm flesh. Smaller tree size 6-8 metres.
Bacon – Most cold-tolerant variety (may survive -5 degrees). Large pear-shaped fruit with green skin.
Fuerte – Small – medium-sized green fruit. Thin skin and buttery flesh. Produces both normal-sized and mini seedless avocados called “cukes”. Crops more biannually (every second season). Vigorous spreading tree.
Zutano – Pear-shaped fruit with green glossy skin. Low oil content and can be quite watery.
Sharwill – Medium-sized oval fruit with green skin. Rich flavour and small seeds. Frost sensitive.
Linda – Large fruit with dark purple skin. Fruits from 400-1100g each. Thick skin that is easy to peel.
TOP TIPS TO GROW AVOCADO
Choose a sunny location
Shelter from the wind or able to create shelter
Prepare the soil with plenty of compost
Free draining is key!
Avocados hate clay soils – mound up above the ground rather than planting down in a hole
Do not disturb roots when removing from the pot!
Protect from the hot afternoon sun
Keep grass and weeds away from the base
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAvocados
Avocados don’t like the cold or the extreme heat, so avoid planting them in winter or summer. Choose a day when the weather will be mild for a few consecutive days.
How to Grow an Avocado
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be protected from winds (shade cloth can help)
Dig a hole and prepare the soil with compost. Mix compost and sandy soil together. For clay soils, backfill with compost and sandy soil, and create a mound above the ground.
Carefully remove the Avocado carefully by cutting the bag or gently easing it from the pot. Try not to disturb roots when possible.
Gently push soil against the root ball and push down with your hands to remove air pockets.
Add a stake to help secure the tree, but do not push it through the root ball.
Add mulch as wide as you can approx 1m but pull back from the trunk so it does not touch (this can cause collar rot)
Add a shelter of shade cloth to the side that gets wind and afternoon hot sun.
Paint any exposed stems with water-based white paint (nontoxic) at a ratio of about 50% paint and 50% water. This acts as sunscreen, which is important for Perth summers!
Care/ Maintenance
Avocados like plenty of food, regular top-ups with compost and mulch are important. The biggest issue with Avocados is too much water, sun or wind.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter, before spring, and end of summer.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer. Push your finger into the soil to the second knuckle; if it comes out dry, water well. If the soil on your finger sticks and is mois,t leave it be.
Harvesting
Avocados, like many fruit trees, should be prevented from fruiting for the first 1-3 years. Wait until the flowers sprout on long stems, then remove them. Once you start letting your Avocado fruit, it will take 1 year from when the fruit sets until it is ready to harvest. Some Avocados stay green when they are ready and ripen off the tree, so here are a few ways to tell if they are ready to pick.
Skin turns from glossy to dull
Stem lightens
It’s within the varieties’ “mature fruit months” (research for your variety and area)
Pick one and let it ripen on the bench for a week or two. If it is delicious and buttery, you can harvest more. If it shrivels and goes black, it is not ready and try again in 2-3 weeks.
Fruit starts falling on the ground.
Pruning
The Avocado tree can grow to be a huge 10 m+ tree if left unpruned. Once your tree reaches 2m or your desired height, you can start pruning it. Be selective and try to remove branches whilst still allowing shade to the other parts of the tree. Try not to remove the bottom “skirt branches” as these protect the stem from being burnt. If once you prune the tree, there are areas of stem exposed, paint with white water-based paint (50:50 water mixed) to add protection.
Pests / Disease
Avocados mainly succumb to bacterial diseases due to excess water. Don’t water the leaves when possible and allow good drainage for the roots.
Reproducing
Seeds from the Avocados can be grown and will produce a new variety. Seed-grown Avocados can take 10+ years to actually fruit, and you never know what the fruit will be like. The best way to reproduce is to grow an Avocado from seed and then graft onto it from a tree that is already fruiting and mature. But also, if you have the room, there is no reason not to try seed grown as you may end up with an exciting new variety.
Cooking and Using
Avocado is a powerhouse in the kitchen and can be used in a wide array of ways.
Learn how to grow Asparagus and what to make with your abundant harvests. Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial vegetable and is a great long-term investment in your food production. Asparagus grows back each year and can produce for up to 30 years ( or longer). The great thing about Asparagus is it produces edible spears at the start of spring, which is often an “in-between” time in the garden when winter crops have finished and summer crops are not yet ready.
Asparagus does require its own spot in the garden, but it can also be grown successfully in a container garden.
Plant seeds in spring or dormant crowns late winter.
SOIL
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Slightly acidic.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well mulched.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and composted manure late winter after fronts die off.
PESTS
Aphids, snails, slaters.
HARVEST
Harvest spears in spring choose spears thicker than a pencil.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but produce quickerby dividing crowns (roots)
Why Grow Asparagus at Home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Asparagus.
Hardy, low-maintenance vegetable
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Early Spring Harvest
Produces up to 30 years
High in Potassium
Great raw or cooked
Popular Asparagus Varieties to Grow
Mary Washington – Popular open-pollinated variety. Long, tender green spears. White spears can be produced if blocked from light.
Sweet Purple – Dark purple spears with 20% more sugar than the green variety. It is also less fibrous.
TOP TIPS ON HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS
Choose a sunny locationthat can be a permanent home
Prepare soil with plenty of compost and well-composted manure.
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
Grow from crowns for faster production
Feed with high nitrogen or compost at the end of winter before spring growth
Allow spears to grow into ferns for the first 2 years
Harvest the fattest spears and leave thin ones to go to ferns
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAsparagus?
If you are planting Asparagus from seed, sow seeds in Spring. Soak seeds in water for 2+ hours before planting for quicker germination. Seedlings can also be planted in spring. Established crowns should be planted while still dormant in late winter.
How to GrowAsparagus?
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be a permanent home for the next 20+ years.
Be aware of surrounding trees that may grow to overshadow the asparagus patch.
Asparagus-like loose soil that is easy to burst through. Create mounts if you have hard or clay soils.
Prepare beds with plenty of compost and composted manure.
Plant 40cm apart
Give them a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Asparagus comes in both male and female plants. They both produce spears, but the males are said to be of higher quality. The female plants can be identified as they produce berries at the end of the ferns. These berries can be saved and will have seeds inside that can be planted.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter. Remulch with lupin, pea straw or sugarcane.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer.
Harvesting
Asparagus holds its energy in the crowns, so it is important to allow the patch to establish before harvesting. From seed, Asparagus should be left for the first 2-3 years. If growing from crowns, Asparagus can be picked sparingly over the first 1-2 years. Choose the fattest spears at least pencil-width thick. Let the thin spears turn to ferns to conserve energy in the crowns for winter.
Pruning
If left, the spears will turn into tall ferns. This is how the plant conserves energy and repopulates. It’s important to allow this for the first few years. The green ferns will turn yellow and die off during mid-late winter. They can then be pruned and used as mulch or added to the compost. Once pruned, add a fresh layer of compost around the bed and re-mulch. This will keep them warm over winter and add nutrients back to the bed ahead of spring.
Pests / Disease
Aphids, slugs, snails, and slaters may like your young spears. Check plants in early spring. Natural pest management. Spears can also be affected with rust. Allow good airflow.
How/ When to Harvest
Asparagus is ready in early spring. Choose the fattest spears, bigger than pencil width and 20 – 25cm tall. Use a sharp knife and cut just below the soil line. Allow thinner spears to grow into ferns.
Reproducing
Female plants will produce berries at the end of their ferns, which contain seeds. These can be planted to expand your Asparagus patch. Crowns can be split when dormant in winter to create new patches.
Cooking and Using
Asparagus can be eaten raw, cooked or preserved, pickled, and bottled.
Asparagus pairs well with:Mint, peas, rocket, dill, chives, cheese, eggs, cured meats, seafood, strawberry, raspberry, nuts, lemon, and potato
If you grow kumquats, you probably know how prolifically they fruit! These tiny, tangy citrus gems often produce more than you can eat fresh, making them perfect for preserving. Making kumquat jam is one of the best (and most delicious) ways to enjoy your homegrown harvest throughout the year. This easy kumquat jam recipe is a simple, low-waste method that uses natural pectin from the seeds and minimal ingredients—just fruit, water, sugar, and lemon.
Whether you’re new to preserving or a seasoned jam maker, this recipe is a great way to use up a bunch of kumquats and create something delicious to enjoy or gift to friends and family.
Why You Should Make Kumquat Jam
Kumquats are a unique grape-sized citrus fruit with edible skins and a sweet-tart flavor that works beautifully in jams and marmalades. Unlike many other citrus fruits, kumquats can be eaten whole, which means their zest, juice, and skin all contribute to flavour-packed, easy-to-make preserves. This homemade kumquat jam is vibrant, tangy, and great for using in other recipes like my delicious Kumquat Jam and custard scrolls! (a must try)
Another bonus? You don’t need to buy pectin. Kumquat seeds contain natural pectin, which helps the jam set, so this is a great way to make a more natural jam using what you already have.
Simple Ingredients for Homemade Kumquat Jam
4 cups chopped kumquats (seeds reserved)
5 cups water
1½ cups sugar
½ lemon (juice)
Kumquat Jam
Yield: 3 jars
Prep Time: 4 hours30 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours55 minutes
Kumquat jam is a great way to use and preserve your harvests. Add this jam to pikelets or baking for a delicious citrus flavour.
Ingredients
4 cups chopped Kumquats
5 cups of water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 lemon
Instructions
Wash and chop your Kumquats and keep the seeds as you will need them to use as natural pectin.
Place the Kumquats and water in a pot.
Get all your seeds and make a little bag from cheesecloth or in a strainer. You want the seeds to be submerged in the water but not dispersed throughout as you will be discarding them later. Let the seeds and kumquats sit in the water for 4hrs to release the natural pectin. Remove the seeds and discard.
Place a saucer or plate in the freezer to test your jam out at the end.
Bring the pot to a simmer for 30mins. Add in the sugar and stir. Bring the pot to boil for 5min.
Test your jam by putting droplets onto your frozen plate. They should thicken as you run the end of a spoon through the droplet to check. If it doesn't look like it is set add some fresh lemon juice, reheat, and stir. Test again. I repeated this a couple of times and it started to look set.
Spoon hot mixture into hot jars (heat mine in the oven to sterilise 120 degrees for 15 mins and the lids in a bowl of boiling water).
Turn the jars upside down to cool and help the lids seal.
Refrigerate and enjoy.
How to Make Kumquat Jam (Step-by-Step)
1. Prep Your Kumquats
Wash your kumquats thoroughly. Chop them up and be sure to collect the seeds as you go. You’ll need the seeds later to extract the natural pectin that helps the jam thicken.
2. Create a Pectin Bag
Place the chopped kumquats and water into a large pot. Take your reserved seeds and place them into a small cheesecloth bag or a metal strainer. This step is important—you want the seeds to soak in the water but not disperse throughout the jam, as you’ll be removing them later.
Let the pot sit for around 4 hours at room temperature. This resting time allows the seeds to release their pectin into the water naturally.
3. Remove Seeds & Begin Cooking
After 4 hours, remove and discard the seeds. Place a small saucer or plate in your freezer (this will help you test if the jam is set later).
Bring your pot of kumquats and water to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Then stir in the sugar and bring the mixture to a rolling boil for 5 minutes.
4. Test for Set
Remove your plate from the freezer and spoon a few drops of the jam onto the cold surface. Wait a few seconds, then run the edge of a spoon through it. If the jam wrinkles or holds its shape, it’s ready. If not, add the juice of ½ a lemon, stir, and boil for another minute or two. Repeat the test until the jam is set.
5. Jar Your Jam
Sterilise your jars ahead of time by placing them in a 120°C (250°F) oven for 15 minutes. Soak the lids in boiling water. Once your jam is ready, spoon the hot mixture into the hot jars and seal them while hot. I like to turn my jars upside down as they cool to help them seal.
How to Store Your Kumquat Jam
Once cooled, store your jam in the fridge. Properly sterilised and sealed jars can last several months in the fridge or a cool pantry. Opened jars should be used within a few weeks.
Delicious Ways to Use Kumquat Jam
Spread on toast or scones
Swirled into yogurt or porridge
As a glaze on roast vegetables or meats
Paired with cheese on a grazing board
Layered in cakes or desserts
Making your own jams/ preserves is a rewarding way to reduce waste, use seasonal fruit, and add something homemade and flavourful to your pantry. If you’re growing kumquats, give this small-batch kumquat jam recipe a try. You’ll love the sweet, tangy flavor and the satisfaction of creating a garden-to-table treat with your garden’s harvest.
Learn how to grow Kumquat trees at home and what to make with your harvests with this ultimate guide! Kumquats (Citrus japonica and hybrids) or Cumquats are very ornamental citrus that produce masses of small fruit. Kumquats can be eaten straight from the tree, with the skin being edible too. They make beautiful, abundant additions to the garden, especially if you like jams and marmalades.
Kumquats are evergreen and provide dense bushy foliage, which makes them great for wind protection or screening.
Can be grown by seed but may differ from the parent plant.
Why Grow Kumquats at home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kumquat
Hardy, low-maintenance fruit tree
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Dense busy shrub
Grows well in pots and containers
The whole fruit is edible
Great for making jams and preserves
Popular Kumquat Varieties
Nagami – Japanese variety with small oval-shaped fruit. Bright orange when ready. Sweet skin and tart flesh. 1-2 seeds in each fruit.
Meiwa – Larger round orange fruits. Sweet skin and flesh. A hybrid of Nagami and Marumi varieties.
Marumi – Round fruits that are quite sour or tart. Mainly used for preserving.
Variegated Kumquat – Stand out ornamental variegated leaves and fruit. Variegation disappears on fruit usually once ripe. Also known as Calamondin or Calamansi.
TOP TIPS TO GROW KUMQUAT
Choose a sunny location
Mulcharound the base (avoid touching the trunk)
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
When to PlantKumquat
Ideally, plant your trees in Spring or Autumn. If you are growing in containers, protect new plants from extreme heat or cold.
How to GrowKumquat
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Dig a hole twice as big as the pot and loosen the roots if they are tightly bound.
Free-draining soil with compost.
Mulch to regulate temperatures and reduce weeds.
Give it a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Feeding
Feed with compost or liquid fertilisers in late winter after fruiting.
Watering
Deep water especially in summer.
Pruning
Prune after fruiting for shape. This can make it denser and bushier. Always check and remove growth below the graft.
The great thing about growing Kumquats is that they can last a long time ripe on the tree. This makes them really beautiful and ornamental and gives you time to preserve the fruit in batches. The fruit is ready when it is rich in colour. It can be a good idea to harvest using scissors or snips as the branches are thin and can rip or break if you pull the fruit off.
Reproducing
Kumquats often have 1-2 seeds inside. These can be grown, but results can vary but why not give it a try! Most citrus are grafted onto rootstock for disease resistance.
Cooking and Using
Kumquats fruit prolifically, so it’s a good idea to have a few recipes on hand. The great thing is that you don’t need to peel them as the skin is edible too!
Kumquats can be made into jams, chutney, marmalade, and relish. They can also be preserved whole in salt or liquor. Dehydrating slices is another easy way to preserve the harvest.
Wildlife and beneficial insects are key to creating a sustainable self-sufficient garden. They help form part of a balanced ecosystem and creating a small wildlife pond in the garden is an incredible way to attract them. Wildlife ponds can be a transformative addition to any garden or outdoor space, offering many amazing benefits including beauty, tranquility, and increased pollination. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a compact urban garden, a small DIY wildlife pond has the potential to create a thriving ecosystem, attract beneficial insects, and help your gardens grow an abundance of food.
Today I’m going to share the process of creating my own DIY wildlife pond including choosing a location, pond plants, and why I have chosen native Australian fish for the pond.
One of the key advantages of having a wildlife pond is the ability to attract beneficial insects. Many of these insects, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverflies, are natural predators of garden pests. By providing them with a water source and a suitable habitat, you can encourage their presence and create a natural pest control system within your garden. No need for harmful chemical pesticides making your garden healthy, thriving, and sustainable.
Click to WATCH the transformation or continue reading below
Planning Your Wildlife Pond
1. Choose a location for your wildlife pond
The first step in creating your small wildlife pond is to find suitable location options. Look for an area that is relatively level and away from large trees or shrubs whose roots may interfere with excavation or cause water quality issues. Consider the overall layout of your garden and how the pond will fit into the existing landscape. Keep in mind that a wildlife pond can range in size from a small, shallow pond to a larger, more expansive water feature, so choose a location that suits the space you have available.
Important things to consider when choosing the location for your wildlife pond:
Sunlight – most pond plants will need 6-7 hours of sunlight per day. This is more important in spring and summer than in winter as many pond plants will slow or die down over winter anyway.
Shade – Shade is also important, especially during the hottest part of the day. Shade will help keep the pond cool, especially in summer and reduce the algae. Adding plants will help shade out the pond.
Water source – Having a water source or hose available nearby is important especially in summer if the pond water gets low or too hot.
Safety and access – Pets or young children – depending on the size of your pond you will want to consider access if you have young children or pets (my water-loving dog would jump in immediately!). It would be worth checking out your local council’s requirements for ponds.
Close proximity to gardens – If you are wanting to attract wildlife to your gardens to help with pollination and pest management then it would be a good idea to have it close to your veggie patch or gardens. Existing gardens will also create wildlife corridors for safe access to and from the pond.
My pond location:
Front garden away from my water-loving dog
In an existing garden bed for a wildlife corridor
Outside my office window to enjoy the aesthetics and tranquility
The size and design of your wildlife pond could be determined by the space available or the structure you choose to use. Whether that is a prefabricated pond, pot or barrel pond, or full DIY pond with a pond liner.
I sourced a preformed poly pond that was roughly 1m x1m and 30cm deep. There is a huge range of preformed ponds available to fit a range of spaces. Baths, tubs, and tanks also make great DIY pond structures.
3. Filling and Balancing the Pond
Having a water source nearby is important to be able to top up or cool the pool down during the warmer months. Rainwater would be ideal to fill your pond but if like me, you only have access to mains or system water you will need to do a few extra steps to balance and remove the chlorine.
To condition the water you can either leave it to sit and gas off for 2-3 weeks or you can speed up the process by running an aeration pond pump in the water. The other way to condition the water is to purchase some water conditioning treatment. This is what I did and I also waited two weeks before adding in fish just to be sure and to allow natural bacteria to build up. I also added “splosht” which are small dissolving sachets of good bacteria to help keep the pond clean. The ones I used are made here in Western Australia so it is native bacteria. Speak to your local pond shop to see what will work best for your pond.
4. Introducing Plants to the Pond
Selecting plants for your pond is an exciting time! Firstly, it is important to determine what types of wildlife you would most like to attract to your pond. This will help you select plants to suit and reduce some of the overwhelm.
Frogs like lily pad like leaves and grasses or reeds to hide in.
Small birds like nectar-producing flowers and dense shrubs to hide in.
Ladybugs and beneficial insects like pollen-rich flowers such as herb flowers
Lizards like low-lying dense ground covers to easily hide in
Native wildlife often are attracted to native plants and flowers
Another thing to consider is whether you would like them to all be edible or a mix of both. I chose to plant edibles, natives, and herbs. A wide range of leaf types and plant heights/structures will help encourage a wider array of wildlife to your pond.
There are 4 main types of plants you may like to select for your pond:
Full Aquatic Plants: These grow completely submerged underwater such as Water lilies, and Vallis grass. They are great for deeper parts of the pond and can help oxygenate the water.
Filtration plants: These help keep the water clean and act as natural filtration. These are plants such as: Lebanese Cress, Water Mints, Gotu Kola, Pennywort, Watercress, Kang Kong. Most of these plants like to be partially submerged. I have mine propped up on bricks with 1 inch out of the water.
Marginal Plants: These are plants that can be planted around the edge of the pond or in shallow water. These are plants like: Fairy Lights, Blue Grass, Reeds, Bull Rush, Taro, Water Chestnuts, Mint, Queensland Arrowroot, Iris, Lebanese Cress, Watercress, Thalia, Papyrus, Society Garlic, Sweet Violet, and Moneywort.
Floating cover plants: These plants multiply quickly and cover the surface of the water. This can help regulate the pond temperature and shade out the pond. This can reduce algae and also offer food to many fish. Plants such as: Duckweed, Azolla, Frogbit and Hornwort.
Check out the video for a full tour of the plants I selected for this project.
5. Adding Natural Elements
Natural elements such as logs, rocks, and sticks offer surfaces for wildlife to rest on, cross over or hide under. It is important to make easy access in and out of the water. This will allow frogs, lizards, and bees the ability to get in and out. Shallow areas, ledges, ramps, and varying heights around the edge of the pond will help with this. It will also help your pond blend in and look more natural and integrated within the garden.
6. Adding Fish to the Pond
Adding fish to your pond can help with filtration and keep mosquito larvae in check. Understanding what type of wildlife you would ideally like to attract to your wildlife pond can help determine the type of fish for your pond. I am hoping to get frogs in my pond and many introduced fish such as goldfish or Koi may eat frogs’ eggs. This can be ok in a large pond with more space for frogs to hide and lay eggs. As I have a small pond and would like to encourage frogs, I have decided to go with West Australian Perch and White Cloud minnows that eat mosquito larvae but not the frogs eggs. They are also low maintenance and can handle ponds without pumps.
After purchasing the fish from the pond store, I let the bags sit in the pond water for 5 minutes to let the water in the bag adjust to the pond temperature. I then gently opened the bag and let the fish out. The Minnows dart about on the surface often but the Perch love to hide and I never see them! So that is something to consider.
7. Maintaining Your Wildlife Pond
It is important to regularly check on the pond, especially during the first year as things grow and temperatures change. Observing will allow you to see what types of wildlife are using the pond and what changes or additions you could make. Adding a small pump or water fountain will also help keep the pond cool and reduce algae. I do plan to add a solar pump and fountain eventually.
Scoop out dead leaves or excess algae
Top up water in summer if needed
Regular top-ups of “Splosht” good bacteria or similar
I decided to add solar lights to the pond as it is outside my office window and is nice to view during the evenings when I’m working late. I selected floating solar lights and also spotlights to point at feature plants. The fun thing about these lights is that I can change the colours and turn them on and off via a remote. The floating lights also offer more protection for the fish whilst the plants are established.
Just like the rest of your gardens your pond will change and develop over the seasons and the years. It will require some tweaking and editing as you go to find a good balance. There are so many amazing reasons to create a wildlife pond for your gardens.
By creating a wildlife pond, you are not only providing a habitat for a variety of natural life but also fostering diversity in your surroundings. These ponds act as sanctuaries for a wide array of wildlife, including frogs, lizards, birds, dragonflies, and beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies. These creatures play essential roles in pollination, pest control, and maintaining a balanced ecosystem.
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Sautéed Rainbow Chard is a quick and easy way to prepare a nutritious side of greens. This recipe is fresh, vibrant and so so delicious! Infused with garlic, lemon zest and topped with Crispy Sage and pickled onions this is the Ultimate garden-to-plate breakfast (lunch or dinner!). The pickled onions are best to make at least the day before so they have time to infuse and pickle.
Sautéed Rainbow Chard on Toast with Feta and Crispy Sage
Yield: serves 2
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Fresh, nutritious and full of flavour, this garden-to-plate breakfast is easy and delicious! Make the most of the Rainbow Chard season.
Peel and finely slice garlic. Add to a pan on medium heat with butter. Cook for 2 mins.
Roughly slice Rainbow chard stalks (1cm chunks) and add them to the pan. Cook for a further 2 minutes.
Chop leaves and keep to the side.
In another pan fry the eggs to your liking.
Add chard leaves to the garlic and stalks and cook for 1-2 mins until wilted. Stir through Lemon zest and season with salt.
Turn the oven grill on to 180 degrees. Drizzle Sage with olive oil or butter and place on an oven tray along with Pepitas. Toast under the grill until slightly golden watching carefully as this will take less than 1 minute. Alternatively, this can be done in the pan along side eggs.
Toast sourdough and butter.
Place two pieces of toast on each plate and evenly distribute rainbow chard mix, crumble on feta, top with eggs, sprinkle on toasted pepitas, and top with Red Pickled Onions.
Add edible flowers for colour - I used Cornflowers and pea shoots.
Notes
The pickled onions are best to make at least the day before so they have time to infuse and pickle.
Simple Pickled Red Onions
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 2 minutes
Total Time: 12 minutes
Quick and easy pickled red onions add flavour to any meal. Add your seasonal garden herbs such as Fennel, Dill or Chilli to boost the flavours.
Ingredients
3 Red Onions
1/4 cup Apple Cider Vinegar
1/4 cup White Vinegar
1 1/2 TBSP Raw Sugar
1 1/2 tsp Salt
1 cup Water
Instructions
Finely slice the red onions - using a mandoline is the easiest option.
Cram as many red Onions into a clean sterilised jar.
In a saucepan add the vinegar, sugar, and salt and stir until the sugar has dissolved and the mix starts to simmer.
Add any extra flavours to the jar such as chilli, fennel flowers, fennel fronds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, or peppercorns ( 1tsp per jar).
Pour over the liquid and secure the lid.
Allow cooling for one hour and place in the fridge.
Notes
To sterlise the jars place in a hot dishwasher run or wash and heat in the over for 10-15 at 110 degrees celcius.
You can swap and use just one type of vinegar if you prefer.
