Add a little bit of flair to your desserts, baked treats, or cocktails with these sparkly, sweet candied mint leaves. They’re beautiful, easy to make, and add a delicate crunch with a refreshing minty finish. Perfect for when you want something a little special to top a cake, tart, pavlova, or even a fancy iced drink.
Mint on its own can sometimes be a little overpowering, but candying softens that intense bite while preserving all the aromatic freshness. The sugar balances the strength of the mint, leaving you with a light, sweet leaf that melts in your mouth and looks stunning as a garnish.
How to Make Candied Mint Leaves
All you need are a few fresh mint leaves, some egg white (or aquafaba for a vegan version), and a sprinkle of caster sugar. Simply coat each leaf in a bit of frothy egg white, dust with sugar on both sides, and let them dry for several hours until crisp. I like to leave mine on baking paper in a switched-off dehydrator or a warm, dry spot in the kitchen. They’re best made the night before and can be stored in an airtight container for a day or two.
Candied mint leaves are a great way to use up any extra mint growing in the garden, especially when it starts to take over. You can also try this method with other edible leaves like lemon balm or even tiny herb leaves for a twist.
They’re not just decorative—they’re delicious! Whether you’re topping an avocado chocolate tart, dressing up a fruit salad, or adding charm to a summer cocktail, these little leaves add a handmade, whimsical touch that’s sure to impress.
Candied Mint Leaves
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 6 hours
Total Time: 6 hours10 minutes
Sweet and minty these candied mint leaves are a delicious addition to decorate baking or cocktails.
Ingredients
10 + Mint leaves*
1 Egg White or Aquafaba (chickpea water)
Caster Sugar
Instructions
Whisk egg white until frothy.
Prepare a tray with baking paper.
Lightly coat the mint leaves in egg white by dipping them in and wiping off excess on the edge of the bowl.
Sprinkle both sides with sugar and place on the baking paper tray.
Allow to rest at room temperature for 6 hours + or overnight. I stored them in my dehydrator (switched off) to keep any bugs off.
Store in an airtight container and use within a day or two.
Notes
* Try with edible flowers or other herbs such as pineapple sage
Garden to Plate Magic
Candied mint leaves are a simple yet elegant way to elevate your homemade treats. With just a few ingredients and a bit of drying time, you can transform humble garden mint into a beautiful garnish that looks impressive and tastes delicious. Whether you’re making them for a special occasion or just to enjoy some creative time in the kitchen, they’re a fun way to celebrate what’s growing in your garden.
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Learn how to grow Avocado (Persea americana) at home and what to make with your abundant avocado crops! Avocado is a popular fruit that can be a little tricky to grow. Choosing the right variety for your climate and getting some key care points right should have you picking homegrown avocados for years to come!
Avocados can be used as evergreen shade trees or grown in pots for urban areas. Avocado trees can reach heights of 12+ meters if they are not pruned. Smaller dwarf trees will reach maximum heights of around 4 meters, but can also be pruned to keep them smaller.
Avocados are best grown from grafted trees. Growing an Avocado from seed can take anywhere from 4 to 13 years or longer to get fruit. Even then, you have no idea what the fruit will be like, as it will not be identical to the plant the seed came from. Grafted trees have mature fruiting stems grafted onto allow the tree to bear fruit within a year or two.
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Mounded above ground in clay soil.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.Can benefit from afternoon shade.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well-mulched.Protect from wind and hot afternoon sun when young.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and mulch.
PESTS
Excess water and fungal diseases are the most common cause. Rats may eat the fruit.
HARVEST
Fruit takes about 1 year on the tree to ripen. Skin goes dull and some may drop from the tree.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but may take 10+ years to fruit. Mature wood grafted from fruiting-age trees is best.
Why Grow Your Own Avocado?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Avocados.
Evergreen shade-giving tree
Perennial crops
It can be expensive to buy!
Can be used in sweet and savoury dishes
Prolific producer
Long harvests
High in vitamin E and folate
High in fibre
Substitute for butter
Popular Avocado Varieties to Grow
Avocados come in A and B varieties. Each type flowers as male and female at different times of the day. Having both an A and a B-type Avocado will mean you will get more avocados due to an increase in pollination. Most avocados will be self-fertile, but having a second will increase the amount you get. Dwarf or semi-dwarf avocados will grow to be smaller trees, but unlike other swarf fruit trees, they will still be up to 4m high. Keeping them pruned can maintain their size.
Type (A) Varieties
Hass – Popular small dark-skinned avocado. Most commonly found in stores due to its tough skin for transport. Small fruit, a great producer.
Reed – Large green round fruit 200-800 grams. Mild and buttery flavour. The tree tends to grow upright rather than outwards.
Choquette – Large green round fruit weighing over 1kg! Creamy, rich flesh. A cross between a Guatemalan and a West Indian type.
Semi Dwarf
Lamb Hass – Large dark-skinned avocado. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Late-season fruits.
Pinkerton – Medium-sized green-skinned fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. High oil content.
Wurtz – Medium-sized green pear-shaped fruit. Semi-dwarf tree growing 3-4 metres. Weeping branches that hang downward.
Type (B) Varieties
Shepard – Popular commercial variety. Green skin and yellow firm flesh. Smaller tree size 6-8 metres.
Bacon – Most cold-tolerant variety (may survive -5 degrees). Large pear-shaped fruit with green skin.
Fuerte – Small – medium-sized green fruit. Thin skin and buttery flesh. Produces both normal-sized and mini seedless avocados called “cukes”. Crops more biannually (every second season). Vigorous spreading tree.
Zutano – Pear-shaped fruit with green glossy skin. Low oil content and can be quite watery.
Sharwill – Medium-sized oval fruit with green skin. Rich flavour and small seeds. Frost sensitive.
Linda – Large fruit with dark purple skin. Fruits from 400-1100g each. Thick skin that is easy to peel.
TOP TIPS TO GROW AVOCADO
Choose a sunny location
Shelter from the wind or able to create shelter
Prepare the soil with plenty of compost
Free draining is key!
Avocados hate clay soils – mound up above the ground rather than planting down in a hole
Do not disturb roots when removing from the pot!
Protect from the hot afternoon sun
Keep grass and weeds away from the base
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAvocados
Avocados don’t like the cold or the extreme heat, so avoid planting them in winter or summer. Choose a day when the weather will be mild for a few consecutive days.
How to Grow an Avocado
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be protected from winds (shade cloth can help)
Dig a hole and prepare the soil with compost. Mix compost and sandy soil together. For clay soils, backfill with compost and sandy soil, and create a mound above the ground.
Carefully remove the Avocado carefully by cutting the bag or gently easing it from the pot. Try not to disturb roots when possible.
Gently push soil against the root ball and push down with your hands to remove air pockets.
Add a stake to help secure the tree, but do not push it through the root ball.
Add mulch as wide as you can approx 1m but pull back from the trunk so it does not touch (this can cause collar rot)
Add a shelter of shade cloth to the side that gets wind and afternoon hot sun.
Paint any exposed stems with water-based white paint (nontoxic) at a ratio of about 50% paint and 50% water. This acts as sunscreen, which is important for Perth summers!
Care/ Maintenance
Avocados like plenty of food, regular top-ups with compost and mulch are important. The biggest issue with Avocados is too much water, sun or wind.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter, before spring, and end of summer.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer. Push your finger into the soil to the second knuckle; if it comes out dry, water well. If the soil on your finger sticks and is mois,t leave it be.
Harvesting
Avocados, like many fruit trees, should be prevented from fruiting for the first 1-3 years. Wait until the flowers sprout on long stems, then remove them. Once you start letting your Avocado fruit, it will take 1 year from when the fruit sets until it is ready to harvest. Some Avocados stay green when they are ready and ripen off the tree, so here are a few ways to tell if they are ready to pick.
Skin turns from glossy to dull
Stem lightens
It’s within the varieties’ “mature fruit months” (research for your variety and area)
Pick one and let it ripen on the bench for a week or two. If it is delicious and buttery, you can harvest more. If it shrivels and goes black, it is not ready and try again in 2-3 weeks.
Fruit starts falling on the ground.
Pruning
The Avocado tree can grow to be a huge 10 m+ tree if left unpruned. Once your tree reaches 2m or your desired height, you can start pruning it. Be selective and try to remove branches whilst still allowing shade to the other parts of the tree. Try not to remove the bottom “skirt branches” as these protect the stem from being burnt. If once you prune the tree, there are areas of stem exposed, paint with white water-based paint (50:50 water mixed) to add protection.
Pests / Disease
Avocados mainly succumb to bacterial diseases due to excess water. Don’t water the leaves when possible and allow good drainage for the roots.
Reproducing
Seeds from the Avocados can be grown and will produce a new variety. Seed-grown Avocados can take 10+ years to actually fruit, and you never know what the fruit will be like. The best way to reproduce is to grow an Avocado from seed and then graft onto it from a tree that is already fruiting and mature. But also, if you have the room, there is no reason not to try seed grown as you may end up with an exciting new variety.
Cooking and Using
Avocado is a powerhouse in the kitchen and can be used in a wide array of ways.
Quick-pickled asparagus is one of my favourite ways to preserve the fresh, crisp flavour of a spring harvest. If you’re lucky enough to have an abundance of asparagus—either from your own garden or a market haul—this easy refrigerator pickle is a simple, satisfying way to make the most of it. These pickles are crunchy, tangy, and packed with flavour, making them perfect for snacking, adding to grazing boards, or tossing into salads and wraps.
Refrigerator Pickles are Great for Beginners
Refrigerator pickles are one of the easiest ways to experiment with preserving at home—no canning or complicated steps needed. This recipe uses a basic hot brine made with apple cider vinegar, water, a little sugar or honey, and salt. Mustard seeds add a subtle zing, while red onion (or shallot), dill, and optional chilli give the spears depth and a burst of visual appeal.
Preparing the asparagus is simple: just snap the ends at their natural breaking point and trim them to fit your jar. You can even add the leftover ends into the jar—they soak up the flavour just as well and help minimise waste.
Once packed into a sterilised jar and covered with the hot brine, the pickled asparagus just needs time to chill in the fridge. After 24 hours, the flavours will develop beautifully, and they’ll be ready to enjoy. These will keep for up to a month in the fridge, though they rarely last that long in my house!
Easy Refrigerator Pickled Asparagus Spears
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 1 day
Total Time: 1 day10 minutes
Quick and easy way to extend your Asparagus harvest. Add other in-season veggies or herbs to the mix. Enjoy as a snack or added to wraps and sandwiches.
Ingredients
1 cup water
1 cup ACV
1 bunch asparagus
2 TBSP sugar (or honey)
1/2 TSP salt
2 tsp mustard seeds
2 sprigs dill or fennel frond
2 red chilli (optional for spice)
1/4 red onion sliced or 1 shallot
Instructions
Clean and sterilize a Jar (approx 700gram).
Rinse Asparagus and hold the bottom to snap the spear at the freshest part. Cut fresh spears to fit in the height of your jar.
Stack spears the jar. The excess cuts can also be added. Push dill, onion and chilli in the jar and add mustard seeds.
In a saucepan add water, vinegar, sugar (or honey), and salt. Bring to a simmer or until sugar is dissolved.
Add the hot liquid to the jar. The liquid should completely cover the spears. Secure the lid and flip it upside down to help seal. Leave on the bench until cool (room temperature). Place in the refrigerator for at least 24/hours before eating. Eat within 1 month.
Final Tip
Try swapping out the dill for fennel fronds or tarragon for a twist, or add garlic cloves for extra bite. It’s a quick, easy way to enjoy asparagus long after the season is over.
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Fresh seared Asparagus topped with a delicious flavour-packed Radish top chimichurri and topped with crispy seeds. This Asparagus dish is quick and easy and makes a great Spring side dish to accompany your meals. Add fresh in-season herbs and greens to adapt to suit. This Chimichurri green sauce is one of my favourites and is packed with flavour! Asparagus is ready in Spring and is the perfect balance between a light yet hearty side dish. Top with radish flowers for a pop of spring colour!
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
Spring is all about fresh greens and easy meals, and this recipe ticks all the boxes. Asparagus is one of the first vegetables to pop up after winter and is always a sign that the garden is waking up. Cooking it simply—seared, grilled, or pan-fried—lets its natural flavour shine.
Pairing it with a chimichurri made from radish tops makes this dish both flavourful and low-waste. Radish greens are often overlooked, but they’re peppery, nutrient-rich, and perfect for green sauces like this.
Low-Waste, High-Flavour
This chimichurri can be adapted with whatever fresh herbs or leafy greens you have on hand—think parsley, coriander, lemon balm, or even carrot tops. A handful of toasted seeds (like sunflower or pepitas) adds texture, while soft, chewy dates bring a lovely balance of sweetness.
For a final flourish, top with delicate radish flowers or other edible blooms from your garden to highlight the beauty of spring produce.
Asparagus with Radish Top Chimichurri, toasted Seeds and Dates
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 10 minutes
Light, fresh, and packed full of flavour, this grilled Asparagus is the ultimate Spring side dish. Topped with crispy seeds, chilli, and dates for a sweet and spicy punch.
Ingredients
1 large bunch of Asparagus
1 red chilli
2 TSP seeds (sunflower and/or pumpkin)
1 tsp lemon zest
1 tsp Olive Oil
2 Pitted Dates
Radish top Chimichurri
1 cup greens (Medium - young leaves Radish leaves and Parsley)*
1 1/2 TBSP lemon juice
1 TBSP Red Wine Vinegar
1/4 cup Olive Oil
1 tsp Sugar
2-3 Garlic Cloves
Sea salt flakes to season
Fresh Red Chilli or 1/4 tsp chilli flakes
Instructions
Rinse Asparagus, hold the bottom, and bend to snap. The spears will snap at the freshest part. Add oil to a grill or fry pan and cook Asparagus until lightly charred, bright green, and still a little crunchy.
Add Greens (Radish tops and Parsley), Lemon juice, Vinegar, Sugar, and Garlic to a mixer or mortar and pestle. I prefer a mortar and pestle as I like it chunky and not to blended. Blitz or crush to combine and make a green sauce.
Then gradually add oil to combine. Add Chilli flakes and a pinch of Sea Salt Flakes. Taste and balance with more salt or sugar if needed.
Remove Asparagus from the pan when cooked and add in the seeds and sliced dates (optional for those that like a bit of sweetness). Lightly toast until slightly golden.
Add Asparagus to a plate and drizzle over the green sauce. Garnish with toasted seeds, sliced red chilli, lemon zest, and edible flowers (I used Radish and cornflowers)
Notes
Swap Parsley or Radish tops for Fennel fronds, Carrot tops, Corriander, or a mix.
A Celebration of Spring on a Plate
This dish is proof that you don’t need fancy ingredients to create something beautiful and delicious. It’s quick to throw together, makes use of food scraps that might otherwise be tossed, and looks stunning on the plate. Perfect for a shared meal, a garden lunch, or a seasonal celebration.
Links included in this post might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Learn how to grow Asparagus and what to make with your abundant harvests. Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial vegetable and is a great long-term investment in your food production. Asparagus grows back each year and can produce for up to 30 years ( or longer). The great thing about Asparagus is it produces edible spears at the start of spring, which is often an “in-between” time in the garden when winter crops have finished and summer crops are not yet ready.
Asparagus does require its own spot in the garden, but it can also be grown successfully in a container garden.
Plant seeds in spring or dormant crowns late winter.
SOIL
Free-draining compost-rich soil.Slightly acidic.
LOCATION
Full sun – part. 6-8 hours.
CARE
Keep weed-free and well mulched.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and composted manure late winter after fronts die off.
PESTS
Aphids, snails, slaters.
HARVEST
Harvest spears in spring choose spears thicker than a pencil.
REPRODUCE
Can be grown by seed but produce quickerby dividing crowns (roots)
Why Grow Asparagus at Home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Asparagus.
Hardy, low-maintenance vegetable
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Early Spring Harvest
Produces up to 30 years
High in Potassium
Great raw or cooked
Popular Asparagus Varieties to Grow
Mary Washington – Popular open-pollinated variety. Long, tender green spears. White spears can be produced if blocked from light.
Sweet Purple – Dark purple spears with 20% more sugar than the green variety. It is also less fibrous.
TOP TIPS ON HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS
Choose a sunny locationthat can be a permanent home
Prepare soil with plenty of compost and well-composted manure.
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
Grow from crowns for faster production
Feed with high nitrogen or compost at the end of winter before spring growth
Allow spears to grow into ferns for the first 2 years
Harvest the fattest spears and leave thin ones to go to ferns
Keep weed-free and well-mulched
When to PlantAsparagus?
If you are planting Asparagus from seed, sow seeds in Spring. Soak seeds in water for 2+ hours before planting for quicker germination. Seedlings can also be planted in spring. Established crowns should be planted while still dormant in late winter.
How to GrowAsparagus?
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Choose a location that can be a permanent home for the next 20+ years.
Be aware of surrounding trees that may grow to overshadow the asparagus patch.
Asparagus-like loose soil that is easy to burst through. Create mounts if you have hard or clay soils.
Prepare beds with plenty of compost and composted manure.
Plant 40cm apart
Give them a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Asparagus comes in both male and female plants. They both produce spears, but the males are said to be of higher quality. The female plants can be identified as they produce berries at the end of the ferns. These berries can be saved and will have seeds inside that can be planted.
Feeding
Feed with compost or composted manure at the end of winter. Remulch with lupin, pea straw or sugarcane.
Watering
Deep water, especially in summer.
Harvesting
Asparagus holds its energy in the crowns, so it is important to allow the patch to establish before harvesting. From seed, Asparagus should be left for the first 2-3 years. If growing from crowns, Asparagus can be picked sparingly over the first 1-2 years. Choose the fattest spears at least pencil-width thick. Let the thin spears turn to ferns to conserve energy in the crowns for winter.
Pruning
If left, the spears will turn into tall ferns. This is how the plant conserves energy and repopulates. It’s important to allow this for the first few years. The green ferns will turn yellow and die off during mid-late winter. They can then be pruned and used as mulch or added to the compost. Once pruned, add a fresh layer of compost around the bed and re-mulch. This will keep them warm over winter and add nutrients back to the bed ahead of spring.
Pests / Disease
Aphids, slugs, snails, and slaters may like your young spears. Check plants in early spring. Natural pest management. Spears can also be affected with rust. Allow good airflow.
How/ When to Harvest
Asparagus is ready in early spring. Choose the fattest spears, bigger than pencil width and 20 – 25cm tall. Use a sharp knife and cut just below the soil line. Allow thinner spears to grow into ferns.
Reproducing
Female plants will produce berries at the end of their ferns, which contain seeds. These can be planted to expand your Asparagus patch. Crowns can be split when dormant in winter to create new patches.
Cooking and Using
Asparagus can be eaten raw, cooked or preserved, pickled, and bottled.
Asparagus pairs well with:Mint, peas, rocket, dill, chives, cheese, eggs, cured meats, seafood, strawberry, raspberry, nuts, lemon, and potato
If you grow kumquats, you probably know how prolifically they fruit! These tiny, tangy citrus gems often produce more than you can eat fresh, making them perfect for preserving. Making kumquat jam is one of the best (and most delicious) ways to enjoy your homegrown harvest throughout the year. This easy kumquat jam recipe is a simple, low-waste method that uses natural pectin from the seeds and minimal ingredients—just fruit, water, sugar, and lemon.
Whether you’re new to preserving or a seasoned jam maker, this recipe is a great way to use up a bunch of kumquats and create something delicious to enjoy or gift to friends and family.
Why You Should Make Kumquat Jam
Kumquats are a unique grape-sized citrus fruit with edible skins and a sweet-tart flavor that works beautifully in jams and marmalades. Unlike many other citrus fruits, kumquats can be eaten whole, which means their zest, juice, and skin all contribute to flavour-packed, easy-to-make preserves. This homemade kumquat jam is vibrant, tangy, and great for using in other recipes like my delicious Kumquat Jam and custard scrolls! (a must try)
Another bonus? You don’t need to buy pectin. Kumquat seeds contain natural pectin, which helps the jam set, so this is a great way to make a more natural jam using what you already have.
Simple Ingredients for Homemade Kumquat Jam
4 cups chopped kumquats (seeds reserved)
5 cups water
1½ cups sugar
½ lemon (juice)
Kumquat Jam
Yield: 3 jars
Prep Time: 4 hours30 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours55 minutes
Kumquat jam is a great way to use and preserve your harvests. Add this jam to pikelets or baking for a delicious citrus flavour.
Ingredients
4 cups chopped Kumquats
5 cups of water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 lemon
Instructions
Wash and chop your Kumquats and keep the seeds as you will need them to use as natural pectin.
Place the Kumquats and water in a pot.
Get all your seeds and make a little bag from cheesecloth or in a strainer. You want the seeds to be submerged in the water but not dispersed throughout as you will be discarding them later. Let the seeds and kumquats sit in the water for 4hrs to release the natural pectin. Remove the seeds and discard.
Place a saucer or plate in the freezer to test your jam out at the end.
Bring the pot to a simmer for 30mins. Add in the sugar and stir. Bring the pot to boil for 5min.
Test your jam by putting droplets onto your frozen plate. They should thicken as you run the end of a spoon through the droplet to check. If it doesn't look like it is set add some fresh lemon juice, reheat, and stir. Test again. I repeated this a couple of times and it started to look set.
Spoon hot mixture into hot jars (heat mine in the oven to sterilise 120 degrees for 15 mins and the lids in a bowl of boiling water).
Turn the jars upside down to cool and help the lids seal.
Refrigerate and enjoy.
How to Make Kumquat Jam (Step-by-Step)
1. Prep Your Kumquats
Wash your kumquats thoroughly. Chop them up and be sure to collect the seeds as you go. You’ll need the seeds later to extract the natural pectin that helps the jam thicken.
2. Create a Pectin Bag
Place the chopped kumquats and water into a large pot. Take your reserved seeds and place them into a small cheesecloth bag or a metal strainer. This step is important—you want the seeds to soak in the water but not disperse throughout the jam, as you’ll be removing them later.
Let the pot sit for around 4 hours at room temperature. This resting time allows the seeds to release their pectin into the water naturally.
3. Remove Seeds & Begin Cooking
After 4 hours, remove and discard the seeds. Place a small saucer or plate in your freezer (this will help you test if the jam is set later).
Bring your pot of kumquats and water to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Then stir in the sugar and bring the mixture to a rolling boil for 5 minutes.
4. Test for Set
Remove your plate from the freezer and spoon a few drops of the jam onto the cold surface. Wait a few seconds, then run the edge of a spoon through it. If the jam wrinkles or holds its shape, it’s ready. If not, add the juice of ½ a lemon, stir, and boil for another minute or two. Repeat the test until the jam is set.
5. Jar Your Jam
Sterilise your jars ahead of time by placing them in a 120°C (250°F) oven for 15 minutes. Soak the lids in boiling water. Once your jam is ready, spoon the hot mixture into the hot jars and seal them while hot. I like to turn my jars upside down as they cool to help them seal.
How to Store Your Kumquat Jam
Once cooled, store your jam in the fridge. Properly sterilised and sealed jars can last several months in the fridge or a cool pantry. Opened jars should be used within a few weeks.
Delicious Ways to Use Kumquat Jam
Spread on toast or scones
Swirled into yogurt or porridge
As a glaze on roast vegetables or meats
Paired with cheese on a grazing board
Layered in cakes or desserts
Making your own jams/ preserves is a rewarding way to reduce waste, use seasonal fruit, and add something homemade and flavourful to your pantry. If you’re growing kumquats, give this small-batch kumquat jam recipe a try. You’ll love the sweet, tangy flavor and the satisfaction of creating a garden-to-table treat with your garden’s harvest.
Learn how to grow Kumquat trees at home and what to make with your harvests with this ultimate guide! Kumquats (Citrus japonica and hybrids) or Cumquats are very ornamental citrus that produce masses of small fruit. Kumquats can be eaten straight from the tree, with the skin being edible too. They make beautiful, abundant additions to the garden, especially if you like jams and marmalades.
Kumquats are evergreen and provide dense bushy foliage, which makes them great for wind protection or screening.
Can be grown by seed but may differ from the parent plant.
Why Grow Kumquats at home?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kumquat
Hardy, low-maintenance fruit tree
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Prolific producer
Dense busy shrub
Grows well in pots and containers
The whole fruit is edible
Great for making jams and preserves
Popular Kumquat Varieties
Nagami – Japanese variety with small oval-shaped fruit. Bright orange when ready. Sweet skin and tart flesh. 1-2 seeds in each fruit.
Meiwa – Larger round orange fruits. Sweet skin and flesh. A hybrid of Nagami and Marumi varieties.
Marumi – Round fruits that are quite sour or tart. Mainly used for preserving.
Variegated Kumquat – Stand out ornamental variegated leaves and fruit. Variegation disappears on fruit usually once ripe. Also known as Calamondin or Calamansi.
TOP TIPS TO GROW KUMQUAT
Choose a sunny location
Mulcharound the base (avoid touching the trunk)
Free-draining, slightly acidic soil
When to PlantKumquat
Ideally, plant your trees in Spring or Autumn. If you are growing in containers, protect new plants from extreme heat or cold.
How to GrowKumquat
Choose a sunny location with 6-8 hours of sunlight.
Dig a hole twice as big as the pot and loosen the roots if they are tightly bound.
Free-draining soil with compost.
Mulch to regulate temperatures and reduce weeds.
Give it a deep water.
Care/ Maintenance
Feeding
Feed with compost or liquid fertilisers in late winter after fruiting.
Watering
Deep water especially in summer.
Pruning
Prune after fruiting for shape. This can make it denser and bushier. Always check and remove growth below the graft.
The great thing about growing Kumquats is that they can last a long time ripe on the tree. This makes them really beautiful and ornamental and gives you time to preserve the fruit in batches. The fruit is ready when it is rich in colour. It can be a good idea to harvest using scissors or snips as the branches are thin and can rip or break if you pull the fruit off.
Reproducing
Kumquats often have 1-2 seeds inside. These can be grown, but results can vary but why not give it a try! Most citrus are grafted onto rootstock for disease resistance.
Cooking and Using
Kumquats fruit prolifically, so it’s a good idea to have a few recipes on hand. The great thing is that you don’t need to peel them as the skin is edible too!
Kumquats can be made into jams, chutney, marmalade, and relish. They can also be preserved whole in salt or liquor. Dehydrating slices is another easy way to preserve the harvest.
Wildlife and beneficial insects are key to creating a sustainable self-sufficient garden. They help form part of a balanced ecosystem and creating a small wildlife pond in the garden is an incredible way to attract them. Wildlife ponds can be a transformative addition to any garden or outdoor space, offering many amazing benefits including beauty, tranquility, and increased pollination. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a compact urban garden, a small DIY wildlife pond has the potential to create a thriving ecosystem, attract beneficial insects, and help your gardens grow an abundance of food.
Today I’m going to share the process of creating my own DIY wildlife pond including choosing a location, pond plants, and why I have chosen native Australian fish for the pond.
One of the key advantages of having a wildlife pond is the ability to attract beneficial insects. Many of these insects, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverflies, are natural predators of garden pests. By providing them with a water source and a suitable habitat, you can encourage their presence and create a natural pest control system within your garden. No need for harmful chemical pesticides making your garden healthy, thriving, and sustainable.
Click to WATCH the transformation or continue reading below
Planning Your Wildlife Pond
1. Choose a location for your wildlife pond
The first step in creating your small wildlife pond is to find suitable location options. Look for an area that is relatively level and away from large trees or shrubs whose roots may interfere with excavation or cause water quality issues. Consider the overall layout of your garden and how the pond will fit into the existing landscape. Keep in mind that a wildlife pond can range in size from a small, shallow pond to a larger, more expansive water feature, so choose a location that suits the space you have available.
Important things to consider when choosing the location for your wildlife pond:
Sunlight – most pond plants will need 6-7 hours of sunlight per day. This is more important in spring and summer than in winter as many pond plants will slow or die down over winter anyway.
Shade – Shade is also important, especially during the hottest part of the day. Shade will help keep the pond cool, especially in summer and reduce the algae. Adding plants will help shade out the pond.
Water source – Having a water source or hose available nearby is important especially in summer if the pond water gets low or too hot.
Safety and access – Pets or young children – depending on the size of your pond you will want to consider access if you have young children or pets (my water-loving dog would jump in immediately!). It would be worth checking out your local council’s requirements for ponds.
Close proximity to gardens – If you are wanting to attract wildlife to your gardens to help with pollination and pest management then it would be a good idea to have it close to your veggie patch or gardens. Existing gardens will also create wildlife corridors for safe access to and from the pond.
My pond location:
Front garden away from my water-loving dog
In an existing garden bed for a wildlife corridor
Outside my office window to enjoy the aesthetics and tranquility
The size and design of your wildlife pond could be determined by the space available or the structure you choose to use. Whether that is a prefabricated pond, pot or barrel pond, or full DIY pond with a pond liner.
I sourced a preformed poly pond that was roughly 1m x1m and 30cm deep. There is a huge range of preformed ponds available to fit a range of spaces. Baths, tubs, and tanks also make great DIY pond structures.
3. Filling and Balancing the Pond
Having a water source nearby is important to be able to top up or cool the pool down during the warmer months. Rainwater would be ideal to fill your pond but if like me, you only have access to mains or system water you will need to do a few extra steps to balance and remove the chlorine.
To condition the water you can either leave it to sit and gas off for 2-3 weeks or you can speed up the process by running an aeration pond pump in the water. The other way to condition the water is to purchase some water conditioning treatment. This is what I did and I also waited two weeks before adding in fish just to be sure and to allow natural bacteria to build up. I also added “splosht” which are small dissolving sachets of good bacteria to help keep the pond clean. The ones I used are made here in Western Australia so it is native bacteria. Speak to your local pond shop to see what will work best for your pond.
4. Introducing Plants to the Pond
Selecting plants for your pond is an exciting time! Firstly, it is important to determine what types of wildlife you would most like to attract to your pond. This will help you select plants to suit and reduce some of the overwhelm.
Frogs like lily pad like leaves and grasses or reeds to hide in.
Small birds like nectar-producing flowers and dense shrubs to hide in.
Ladybugs and beneficial insects like pollen-rich flowers such as herb flowers
Lizards like low-lying dense ground covers to easily hide in
Native wildlife often are attracted to native plants and flowers
Another thing to consider is whether you would like them to all be edible or a mix of both. I chose to plant edibles, natives, and herbs. A wide range of leaf types and plant heights/structures will help encourage a wider array of wildlife to your pond.
There are 4 main types of plants you may like to select for your pond:
Full Aquatic Plants: These grow completely submerged underwater such as Water lilies, and Vallis grass. They are great for deeper parts of the pond and can help oxygenate the water.
Filtration plants: These help keep the water clean and act as natural filtration. These are plants such as: Lebanese Cress, Water Mints, Gotu Kola, Pennywort, Watercress, Kang Kong. Most of these plants like to be partially submerged. I have mine propped up on bricks with 1 inch out of the water.
Marginal Plants: These are plants that can be planted around the edge of the pond or in shallow water. These are plants like: Fairy Lights, Blue Grass, Reeds, Bull Rush, Taro, Water Chestnuts, Mint, Queensland Arrowroot, Iris, Lebanese Cress, Watercress, Thalia, Papyrus, Society Garlic, Sweet Violet, and Moneywort.
Floating cover plants: These plants multiply quickly and cover the surface of the water. This can help regulate the pond temperature and shade out the pond. This can reduce algae and also offer food to many fish. Plants such as: Duckweed, Azolla, Frogbit and Hornwort.
Check out the video for a full tour of the plants I selected for this project.
5. Adding Natural Elements
Natural elements such as logs, rocks, and sticks offer surfaces for wildlife to rest on, cross over or hide under. It is important to make easy access in and out of the water. This will allow frogs, lizards, and bees the ability to get in and out. Shallow areas, ledges, ramps, and varying heights around the edge of the pond will help with this. It will also help your pond blend in and look more natural and integrated within the garden.
6. Adding Fish to the Pond
Adding fish to your pond can help with filtration and keep mosquito larvae in check. Understanding what type of wildlife you would ideally like to attract to your wildlife pond can help determine the type of fish for your pond. I am hoping to get frogs in my pond and many introduced fish such as goldfish or Koi may eat frogs’ eggs. This can be ok in a large pond with more space for frogs to hide and lay eggs. As I have a small pond and would like to encourage frogs, I have decided to go with West Australian Perch and White Cloud minnows that eat mosquito larvae but not the frogs eggs. They are also low maintenance and can handle ponds without pumps.
After purchasing the fish from the pond store, I let the bags sit in the pond water for 5 minutes to let the water in the bag adjust to the pond temperature. I then gently opened the bag and let the fish out. The Minnows dart about on the surface often but the Perch love to hide and I never see them! So that is something to consider.
7. Maintaining Your Wildlife Pond
It is important to regularly check on the pond, especially during the first year as things grow and temperatures change. Observing will allow you to see what types of wildlife are using the pond and what changes or additions you could make. Adding a small pump or water fountain will also help keep the pond cool and reduce algae. I do plan to add a solar pump and fountain eventually.
Scoop out dead leaves or excess algae
Top up water in summer if needed
Regular top-ups of “Splosht” good bacteria or similar
I decided to add solar lights to the pond as it is outside my office window and is nice to view during the evenings when I’m working late. I selected floating solar lights and also spotlights to point at feature plants. The fun thing about these lights is that I can change the colours and turn them on and off via a remote. The floating lights also offer more protection for the fish whilst the plants are established.
Just like the rest of your gardens your pond will change and develop over the seasons and the years. It will require some tweaking and editing as you go to find a good balance. There are so many amazing reasons to create a wildlife pond for your gardens.
By creating a wildlife pond, you are not only providing a habitat for a variety of natural life but also fostering diversity in your surroundings. These ponds act as sanctuaries for a wide array of wildlife, including frogs, lizards, birds, dragonflies, and beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies. These creatures play essential roles in pollination, pest control, and maintaining a balanced ecosystem.
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my blog so that I can continue to provide you with free content.
Sautéed Rainbow Chard is a quick and easy way to prepare a nutritious side of greens. This recipe is fresh, vibrant and so so delicious! Infused with garlic, lemon zest and topped with Crispy Sage and pickled onions this is the Ultimate garden-to-plate breakfast (lunch or dinner!). The pickled onions are best to make at least the day before so they have time to infuse and pickle.
Sautéed Rainbow Chard on Toast with Feta and Crispy Sage
Yield: serves 2
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Fresh, nutritious and full of flavour, this garden-to-plate breakfast is easy and delicious! Make the most of the Rainbow Chard season.
Peel and finely slice garlic. Add to a pan on medium heat with butter. Cook for 2 mins.
Roughly slice Rainbow chard stalks (1cm chunks) and add them to the pan. Cook for a further 2 minutes.
Chop leaves and keep to the side.
In another pan fry the eggs to your liking.
Add chard leaves to the garlic and stalks and cook for 1-2 mins until wilted. Stir through Lemon zest and season with salt.
Turn the oven grill on to 180 degrees. Drizzle Sage with olive oil or butter and place on an oven tray along with Pepitas. Toast under the grill until slightly golden watching carefully as this will take less than 1 minute. Alternatively, this can be done in the pan along side eggs.
Toast sourdough and butter.
Place two pieces of toast on each plate and evenly distribute rainbow chard mix, crumble on feta, top with eggs, sprinkle on toasted pepitas, and top with Red Pickled Onions.
Add edible flowers for colour - I used Cornflowers and pea shoots.
Notes
The pickled onions are best to make at least the day before so they have time to infuse and pickle.
Simple Pickled Red Onions
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 2 minutes
Total Time: 12 minutes
Quick and easy pickled red onions add flavour to any meal. Add your seasonal garden herbs such as Fennel, Dill or Chilli to boost the flavours.
Ingredients
3 Red Onions
1/4 cup Apple Cider Vinegar
1/4 cup White Vinegar
1 1/2 TBSP Raw Sugar*
1 1/2 tsp Salt
1 cup Water
1/2 tsp Chilli flakes (optional)
Instructions
Finely slice the red onions - using a mandoline is the easiest option.
Cram as many red Onions into a clean sterilised jar.
In a saucepan add the vinegar, sugar, and salt and stir until the sugar has dissolved and the mix starts to simmer.
Add any extra flavours to the jar such as chilli, fennel flowers, fennel fronds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, or peppercorns ( 1tsp per jar).
Pour over the liquid and secure the lid.
Allow cooling for one hour and place in the fridge.
Notes
To sterlise the jars place in a hot dishwasher run or wash and heat in the oven for 10-15 minutes at 110 degrees Celsius.
You can swap and use just one type of vinegar if you prefer.
Learn how to grow Sage with this Garden-to-Plate Guide and preserve this staple herb. Sage (Salvia officinalis) is a hardy perennial herb found in many home gardens. Sage is known for its soft fleshy leaves and has a long history in plant medicine. Sage is a great addition to your kitchen garden due to its culinary flavour-enhancing qualities along with a long list of medicinal values.
Sage also produces beautiful flowers and is a great pollinator-friendly plant.
Full sun – part shade. Doesn’t like wet soggy ground.
CARE
Prune if it gets too woody to promote new growth.
FERTILISE
Feed with compost and keep well mulched.
PESTS
Aphids, snails, spider mites.
HARVEST
Harvest as needed, early morning or evening.
REGROW
Seed, cuttings and splitting the clump.
Why Grow Sage?
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Sage
Hardy, low-maintenance herb
Perennial
Ornamental and edible
Flavour-enhancing culinary herb
Low-lying food forest layer
Pollinator-friendly
Can have Antimicrobial qualities
Can have Antiseptic qualities
Can have Anti-inflammatory qualities
Popular Sage Varieties
Sage is part of a huge Salvia family, but for this grow guide, we are just focusing on the common Sage – Salvia officinalis
Common – Silvery grey, slim leaves. Bright purple flowers.
Variegated – Striking gold and green variegated leaves. Adds a beautiful contrast to the garden.
Purple – Dark green and purple leaves, this variety can get a bit lost in the shadows. Beautiful colour and has great flavour.
Tri-coloured – Stand-out colour and patterns with green, silver, white, and purple/pink tones.
White-edged – Stunning white and silver variegated leaves.
Berggarten –Broad, silvery green leaf popular for culinary uses. Does not flower often. Compact shrub.
QUICK TIPS ON HOW TO GROW SAGE
Choose a sunny location
Mulch
Prune in spring to encourage new growth
Avoid wet or boggy situations
Take cuttings to repopulate easily
When to Plant
Ideally, plant your Sage in Spring, although you should be able to plant seedlings throughout the year. Protect young plants in the heat of summer and allow plenty of sun over winter.
Top Tips on How to Grow Sage
Plant sage seedlings in a warm sunny position. If you live in a wet or humid climate, it can be a good idea to grow sage in pots and containers. This allows you to move it about to reduce the time it stays wet.
Dig a hole twice as big as the pot and loosen the roots if they are tightly bound.
Mulch to regulate temperatures and reduce weeds. Give it a water.
Sage grows quite slowly from seed. Plant in spring.
How to Care and Maintain Sage
Feeding
Sage is quite low maintenance but can benefit from compost tea or worm tea in Spring and Autumn.
Watering
Sage doesn’t like wet feet. If you live in a wet climate, it can be a good idea to plant on mounds so excess water can run off.
Pruning
Once Sage has finished flowering, it can be a good time to prune back the flower stems and older growth.
Pests / Disease
Caterpillars, snails, aphids and slaters can eat your Sage plants, especially when they are young or in Spring with new growth. Check out Natural pest management for more tips.
How and When to Harvest Sage
The great thing about growing Sage is that you can harvest small amounts throughout the year. Pick individual leaves or shoots as needed. Sage can also be harvested and dried to use throughout the year.
ReproducingSage
Sage does send off sideshoots that can be split off the main plant. This is the quickest and easiest way to reproduce sage from an established plant. Cuttings are the next best way. Choose stems with semi-hard wood and place them in a jar of water or moist soil to send off roots. Remove larger leaves and keep 2-3 at the top to reduce energy and moisture loss.
Ways to Cook and Use Sage
Sage is commonly used to add flavour to roast veggies but there are so many delicious ways to use Sage.
Sage can easily be dried to use throughout the year. Lay flat on a rack or hang upside down in a dry, dust-free area. Alternatively, dehydrate sage on low at 40 degrees Celsius.
IMPORTANT
Sage is best used in moderation. Avoid if pregnant and breastfeeding, as Sage has been known to reduce milk production. Seek guidance from medical professionals.
