An edible food forest is a type of food-producing system that mimics nature and creates a low-maintenance edible garden. Food forest systems can be designed and adapted to suit small urban blocks, sloping sections, and large open spaces. The idea of creating a food forest is that you can let it go a little wild and allow nature to create balance. Food forests not only provide an abundance of food, but they also promote biodiversity, sequester carbon, attract wildlife, nurture the soil, and create a beautiful and tranquil place to be.
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What is a Food Forest?
A food forest is a layered system of gardening that is designed to promote biodiversity and create an ecosystem that feeds off each other through mutually beneficial relationships. A food forest aims to mimic patterns and systems that occur in nature. Although, the food forest gardens we create are definitely not what occurs naturally eg: planting tomatoes with guavas, feijoa, and lettuce. It is more so about creating layers both above the surface with different heights and shapes, as well as below the surface with varying root structures. This way all the plants can get the space they need to thrive, provide nutrients, shade, and shelter to others, and work all together as one big family to grow abundant food supplies.
image credit: Graham Burnett
Why Create a Food Forest Garden?
If you are looking to create a low-maintenance garden that produces food all year round, is lush, tranquil, and attracts birds, bees, and other local wildlife, then a food forest may be the garden for you! Food forests are a great way to grow a huge variety of plants in a single area. The ground covers will smother weeds so there is one less job for you to do! The plants are mainly perennials so this means we don’t need to dig up the soil and replace plants each season. The less we dig up our soil the better as this promotes healthy microorganisms and soil life.
There are certain characteristics of a food forest that allow it to renew and support itself with little external input
Planting Density
It’s important to cover and protect the soil from the harsh sunlight
Planting densely creates a habitat for wildlife
More leaf matter to fall and nourish the soil
More roots to hold the soil together and reduce erosion
More flowers for the bees = more pollination and more food production
Dense planting will reduce the number of unwanted weeds
Having flowers and fruit trees planted close together can increase pollination as the bees and pollinators will be nearby
Growing a wide variety of plants
Planting a wide variety of plants will mean you have fruit, vegetables and flowers ready at all different times of the year
Diversity in plants not only provides you with a wide range of nutrients but also your garden and wildlife
Different root structures will provide the soil microbes with different secretions and reduce the severe depletion of nutrients in the soil. If you have all one crop planted in a single area they use up the same nutrients and the soil can become depleted. Having a wide variety can help keep it balanced.
Plants have different flowers which will attract different pollinators to your garden. Each pollinator will achieve different results for each plant. It’s important not only to have flowers available all year round but also a variety of different kinds.
Self Fertilising
With a variety of layers and heights in your food forest, the plants will drop their leaves and fruit which will act as a mulch and built-in fertiliser.
Some plants may get overgrown or die off (survival of the fittest!) which will also return nutrients to the soil.
From time to time you may need to trim your trees to reduce their height or width. This trimming can be put through a mulcher or cut up and returned back to the garden to feed the plants.
Self Seeding
By letting some plants go to flower and seed you will have new plants popping up each year. This can be an extremely easy way to grow more food for free.
At times fruit trees may grow beneath the canopy from the seeds of rotting fruit. It can be a good idea to move these as they won’t have adequate space to grow. Either, relocate them or pot them up to swap or trade.
How to Start a Food Forest Garden
Step 1: Choose a location and prep the soil
First up, we must decide on an area to start converting into a food forest system. This could be an old veggie patch, the front lawn, along the back fence line, or a large open field. The preparation needed will depend on the condition of the area selected. But in general, you will want to:
Clear any debris or unwanted structures
Remove or smother the grass. This can be done by laying down an old carpet for a few months to kill off all the grass. If the grass is still alive and present it can be hard to maintain. Another way is to use sheets of cardboard, as these will eventually breakdown once the grass has died.
If your location has never been used to grow before, the soil quality may be extremely poor or sandy. It could be a good idea to add a layer of compost or organic manure.
Cover your area in a thick layer of mulch. This will protect the soil and help keep any grasses or unwanted weeds away.
Give the area a good water and feed with a liquid seaweed solution.
Step 2: Selecting a plant list
We want to select plants that:
A: we want to eat and
B: provide benefits to other aspects of our garden (animal feed, mulch, birds, shade, etc).
Below are the 7 layers of the food forest. Write down a wish list of plants for each layer and then you can start mapping out which plants will go where depending on their size, what “layer” they are, and how much light they will need to grow.
7 Layers of a Food Forest
1 Canopy Layer – Large trees that require full sun – fruit and nut trees (Avocado, Chestnut, Mango)
2 Understorey Trees – Dwarf fruit or small trees ( Citrus, Papaya)
3 Perennial Shrubs – Small bushy plants (Berries, Ginger, Arrowroot)
Some plants may fall into multiple categories – Sweet potato is a root crop but also a fantastic ground cover. Ginger is also a root crop but can make a great Perennial shrub layer.
Step 3: Designing
Mapping out a design can be as detailed or as rough as you like. It is important to come up with some kind of plan so that you can decide where to plant your larger trees so that they get enough sunlight. You don’t want to be digging up and moving things around. This should be your master plan not what you are starting with. So go big, add in all things you want so that you can plan for the future and ensure you can room.
How to map out your food forest design
1 Draw the outline of your location or property to scale
2 Add in any permanent structure (sheds, veggie patch, established trees, fences)
3 Map where the sun and shade come from. Mark areas as full sun, part sun, or full shade.
4 Add in your large Canopy trees and allow space for them to grow.
5 Add in your pathways or future large structures (pond, shed, chicken coop)
5 Add in your sub-canopy trees
6 Add in your scrubs, herbaceous layer, root crops, ground cover, and vertical layers.
7 Add seating, a table, or a place for you to view and enjoy your food forest.
Step 4: Planting
To start with you will want to select your large canopy trees and ensure there is enough space for them to grow. The height and width will be noted on the labels. Then you can start adding in your sub-canopy/dwarf trees. Large trees may take years to fully establish so your food forest may not look very ‘foresty’, to begin with. This is a great time to interplant with more annual crops (lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli, etc).
When I first started my back fence line in a food forest system, there were large gaps between the trees. This meant there was a lot more light and space available but I knew that eventually my canopy and sub-canopy trees would grow to fill the space. I used this time to grow seasonal veggies and edible flowers. As well as accumulating and establishing new shrub layers and ground covers.
How to Source Plants for your Food Forest?
Creating a food forest can involve a lot of new plants and the costs will quickly add up. This is where learning how to make cuttings can be extremely valuable. Not only can you reproduce your plants to grow in other areas of the garden but you can also swap, trade, and sell your plants to acquire new ones. Keep an eye out on local pages as you can pick up established trees for cheap or even free! I have managed to get established fruit trees that are already fruiting for less than $20. This can really speed up your food forest production.
Maintaining your Food Forest
The idea of creating your food forest is that it will require less care and attention. This can mean it will look a little wild from time to time (in a good way)
Pruning or trimming back excess trees can be a great way to propagate more or mulch to feed the garden. This can be done once the tree has finished fruiting.
Some trees will need to be staked and secured while they are young so that they don’t snap off.
Propagating plants to establish in other areas – it can take a while for some plants to establish so once they have you can start to reproduce them in other areas.
Harvesting fruit – this is important so that you can reduce the number of unwanted critters (such as rats). Rotting fruit on the ground can also promote fruit fly infestations which you do not want! So ensure all fruit is picked and preserved or composted.
Feeding – It can be beneficial especially in a young food forest to add in extra fertilisers. Try using natural products such as seaweed solution or creating your own from leftover plants and weeds.
Netting or bagging fruit – Depending on your location you may need to net or place net bags on your fruit. Fruit fly, bats, and birds can decimate crops in just a few hours.
Learn how to maximise your edible gardens and grow more food. I don’t follow the rules when it comes to spacing and companion planting. Working with nature to create long-term sustainable gardens.
Ginger and Pear is a match made in heaven. This spiced ginger and pear tea cake is the perfect way to refuel after knocking out some tasks in the garden. Enjoy whilst sitting out in the garden with a cup of tea or coffee. If you love the warm, comforting flavors of ginger and pear, this Spiced Ginger and Pear Tea Cake is the perfect bake for you. This moist and fragrant cake combines fresh, juicy pears with the bold spice of ginger, making it a delightful treat for afternoon tea, cozy gatherings, or as a simple homemade dessert. Whether you’re an experienced baker or just starting out, this easy-to-follow recipe will quickly become a favorite in your kitchen.
Delicious Garden to Plate
Bursting with Flavor – The combination of fresh pears, fresh ginger, cinnamon, and honey creates a perfectly spiced cake that’s both aromatic and delicious.
Moist and Tender Texture – Thanks to the natural juiciness of the pears and creamy yoghurt, this cake stays wonderfully soft and moist.
Simple Ingredients – You probably already have most of these pantry staples at home, making it an easy go-to bake.
Perfect for Any Occasion – Enjoy a slice with a cup of tea, serve it as a weekend brunch treat, or bring it to your next gathering.
Tips for the Best Spiced Ginger and Pear Tea Cake
Use ripe but firm pears for the best texture and flavor.
Grate 1/4 tsp fresh ginger into yogurt or cream to serve for an extra kick
This cake is naturally sweet, lightly spiced, and absolutely delicious. If you’re looking for a cozy, homemade treat that highlights seasonal produce, give this Spiced Ginger and Pear Tea Cake a try!
Spiced Ginger and Pear Tea Cake
Sugar and spice this tea cake is so nice! The perfect morning or afternoon tea treat to be enjoyed with a tea or coffee in the garden.
Ingredients
1 1/4 cups plain flour
1/2 cup coconut yoghurt*
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
2 tsp freshly grated ginger
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 TBSP honey
1/2 tsp mixed spice*
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
1/3 cup milk
1 tsp apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
1 medium pear
1 TBSP raw sugar to sprinkle over the top
Instructions
Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celcius.
Mix all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.
Mix wet ingredients including grated ginger in a separate bowl.
Wash and slice pears into slices lengthways. About 0.5cm - 1cm thick. (Thinner if you want them soft, thicker if you like them to still have some bite). Peel if you like but I don't bother.
Grease a 15-20cm cake tin.
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and gently mix the wet ingredients in until just combined. Don't over-mix.
Pour cake batter into the cake tin and level out to form a flat top. Place the pear slices in and gently push into the mixture. Sprinkle the TBSP of sugar on top.
Bake for 30- 45mins or until the cake skewer comes out clean.
Allow to cool and serve with extra yogurt or cream.
Ginger (Zingerber officinale) is a perennial herb with beautiful lush leaves and produces edible rhizomes that are both flavour-enhancing and medicinal. Ginger is a great addition to your edible garden as it can be grown in pots or as an understory part of your food forest. Ginger easily self propagates and you can divide the rhizomes up to regrow more and more ginger each year. Ginger is a staple for your medicinal garden.
Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Plenty of compost.
LOCATION
Dappled or part shade position. Sheltered and warm.
CARE
Regular watering.
FERTILISE
Compost teas or liquid fertilisers.
PESTS
HARVEST
Harvest in autumn or 8-10 months after planting. When leaves die off. Harvest all at once or leave some to regrow.
REPRODUCE
Cut the rhizomes into pieces with at least 2 “eyes”. Allow cuts to dry off before planting.
Why Grow Ginger?
Ginger is a slower grower but low maintenance and produces an abundance of rhizomes beneath the surface.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Ginger
Easy to grow
Versatile produce
Low maintenance
Aids in nausea
Antioxidants
Flavour enhancer
Visual Aesthetics
Supports Immune health
Rich in Vitamin A,B,C
Can be eaten raw, cooked, or pickled
Anti-inflammatory properties
Popular Ginger Varieties
Ensure you have edible ginger plants before planting as there are many types of ornamental gingers that can be invasive. Selecting organic locally grown ginger rhizomes from the shops can be a good way to regrow ginger plants.
When to Plant Ginger
Ginger is a warm loving tropical plant. It thrives in humid conditions but can still be grown in a range of different climates. Plant ginger late winter-spring depending on how cold your climate is. Plant after the last frost when temperatures are warming up. Ginger likes temperatures between 20-30 degrees and needs at least 5-8 months to grow. If you live in a cooler climate you may need to start or finish your ginger of indoors or in a greenhouse to keep it warm.
How to Grow Ginger
Choose a sheltered, sunny spot with dappled or part shade.
Prepare the soil with rich compost or a pot at least 300mm wide.
Cut Rhyzomes into pieces with at least 2 “eyes each. The eyes are on the end of the knobs and have a little circle. Wait a few days until the cuts have dried off to prevent rot.
Plant 15cm apart.
You can also plant the whole piece in the ground without cutting it first.
Ginger can be a little slow to get growing and show through the soil so don’t stress. Keep them moist but not soggy.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep Ginger well-watered but not soggy. Ginger doesn’t like strong winds so protection using larger trees or plant in sheltered locations.
Once the leaves start to die off in Autumn reduce the watering and let the plants start to die down to put energy into the rhizomes.
You can harvest ginger throughout the growing period the young ginger or “green ginger” has a more mild flavour and can be used raw. Just ensure you don’t disturb the patch too much.
Once the leaves are all brown dig up the patch.
You can select some to regrow and plant straight back in the soil.
Rinse off the soil and remove the roots. These are the skinny smooth parts below the rhizomes.
Reproducing
Ginger is best reproduced by cutting up the rhizomes to produce more plants or left to repopulate on its own. Leaving ginger in the ground without harvesting can help produce an established patch. Then each year in Autumn harvest what you need and leave the rest to regrow.
Cooking and Using Ginger
Ginger can be eaten raw, cooked, pickled or fermented.
Worms are an amazing addition to a self-sufficient homestead as they turn scraps into nutrient-rich organic fertilizer to help you grow more food. Creating a sustainable lifestyle is all about taking small steps and changes to close the loop and nurture thriving ecosystems. You don’t have to do it all at once and I highly recommend starting small, mastering a manageable garden, and then start adding layers one by one. If you overwhelm yourself and don’t have habits and systems in place it won’t be sustainable long term and you can end up with unproductive chaos.
Click to watcha warm farm tour
Tips for setting up a backyard worm farm
1. Source a Worm Farm or Home for your Worms
There are many options for backyard worm systems from kit-set to DIY. You will also more than likely be able to pick up a second-hand worm farm so keep an eye out on your local listings and marketplace. Be mindful of your local climate and do a little research. In Perth, Australia, we have extremely hot summers that reach over 40 degrees. Cool shady locations are a must for worms. If you do live in a hot climate there are some great DIY options using old fridges and freezers to offer more protection. This is something I will be creating very soon!
2. Choose a Location
Choose a location for your worms that is out of direct sunlight and is well protected. On the flip side if you get snow or cold temperatures you would need to make sure you can bring your worm farm somewhere warmer.
The other important consideration to make is to keep it close and convenient. Worms like to be fed a little and often so you don’t want them down the back of your property where they may get forgotten about. Permaculture zone 1-2 would be great or have them located on a path that you frequent regularly. For example: on the way to the chicken coop or the washing line. Having things in convenient locations is the absolute key to being consistent and having systems in place that easily become habits means you don’t even have to think about it just becomes part of everyday life.
3. Source Composting Worms
There are many times of worms in your garden and they all play different roles so it’s important to get the right worms for your worm farm to make sure they are happy and thriving. Tiger worms are a popular type of worm for this system and can be purchased at many plant nurseries or hardware stores that sell worm farms. You may also be able to get set up with worms from friends that have their own form farms established.
4. What to Feed your worms
Feed your worms little and often! Be consistent.
What to feed: Coffee grinds, tea leaves, vegetable scraps, egg shells, banana peels, shredded paper or cardboard, dried leaves, greens, vacuum dust, and hair. The more variety the better as this will help keep a balanced pH. Add a little sprinkle of soil when you feed as the grit can help the worms break down the scraps. Keep the food scraps in smaller pieces if possible.
What to avoid feeding your Worms?
Avoid citrus, garlic, or the onion family as this will create an acidic environment that will harm the worms. No meat – as this can create bad bacteria and attract rats and other unwanted pests.
5. Water your Worms
Worms like a moist environment of around 70% moisture, so it’s important to give your worms a regular drink. Keep a damp sheet of cardboard, hessian sack, or newspaper on top of the food scraps to retain moisture and regulate temperatures. This also acts as a slow-releasing food source.
6. How to care for Worms when you go on Holiday
If you are going away for a few weeks your worms should be fine if you get them prepared. Flush water from the top tray, add plenty of food and some slow-release food such as pea straw, hay, and place some layers of wet newspaper or cardboard on top. This will help keep the worms nice and moist. If you are worried or going away for longer ask someone to stop by and feed your worms.
How to harvest the Worm Tea and Worm Castings?
The by-products of worms are both castings and worm tea. Castings are the worm poo which is your food scraps converted into soil. Add scoops of worm castings to your garden beds to feed and enrich the soil. Warm castings are quite concentrated so it’s best to mix this through with other soil first.
Once the worm bin starts to fill up with worm castings and the worms start trying to get out it may be time to change the bins over. Depending on the size of your worm farm and the population of worms this can be done 2-4 times a year. The active worm bin should be in the top layer so it is time to move this down and place an empty bin on top. Lift out as much of the uneaten food as possible and add it to the empty tub. Put in some fresh food and bedding and pour water over the top to moisten it all down. The worms will start to come up to the top layer to access the food and leave the bin of castings behind.
This may take a while for the worms to move up depending on how much uneaten food is left behind and how dense the population of worms is.
If you don’t have multiple layers in your worm farm another way to harvest the castings is to tip it all out onto some cardboard. The worms don’t like sunlight so they will move to the bottom of the pile and you can harvest off the top layer before putting the worms back in.
Worm tea can be watered down 10:1, especially on young seedlings but we also use a much more concentrated version of 50:50 on fruit trees. Just be careful when using it around young plants as they will be more sensitive, that’s when I would water it down more. Like with everything in the garden, when you are unsure or just starting out do sections and test it out first.
Use the worm tea within a month or two as you want to ensure the living organisms stay alive as that is the key to healthy soil!
If you have extra worm concentrate, bottle it up for gifts or this could be a great little side hustle for kids to sell.
Creamy hummus loaded with crispy kale chips and edible flowers, this is a great way to use up your excess Kale harvest. Perfect for entertaining, served with toasted bread, pitas, or spooned onto a salad wrap. If you’ve got kale growing like crazy in your winter garden, this one’s for you! This Loaded Kale Hummus is a fresh, vibrant twist on classic hummus and one of my favourite ways to use up a big harvest of leafy greens. It’s packed with flavour, rich in nutrients, and makes the perfect colourful addition to snack platters, wraps, grain bowls or a simple piece of sourdough.
Ingredients from the Garden
Kale: Use any variety you have! I often mix curly and Tuscan kale for colour and texture.
Fennel fronds: Optional but adds a soft, aniseed freshness.
Edible flowers: Calendula, viola, nasturtium, or blue cornflower all work beautifully for a colourful finish.
Easy Swaps
Swap chickpeas for white beans or lentils if you’re using what you’ve got on hand.
Add a little cumin, za’atar, or preserved lemon for extra flavour.
If you like heat, add fresh chilli on top!
Loaded Kale Hummus
Ingredients
Hummus
2 cups chopped Kale
1½ cups cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed (or 1 can)
⅓ cup smooth tahini
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon sea salt
2 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
2-3 Roasted garlic cloves
6 tablespoons water, or as needed to blend
Crispy Kale Topping
2 cups chopped Kale
1 TBSP Olive Oil
1/4 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp paprika or smokey seasoning
Edible flowers to serve*
Fennel fronds to serve
1/4 tsp chilli flakes
Instructions
Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Wash and dry off Kale.
Add two cups of chopped Kale (approx 2cm square chunks) to a mixing bowl.
Add 1 TBSP oil and massage into the Kale. Sprinkle on the 1/4 tsp salt and the paprika and stir to combine. Add to a baking tray along with the whole cloves of garlic (unpeeled lightly coat in oil).
Bake until Kale is crispy (10minutes). Check if the garlic is soft and if not remove the kale and cook the garlic for a further few minutes.
Set the crispy kale aside in a bowl.
Add all the hummus ingredients into a mixer or blender including the roasted garlic (remove the peels first). Blitz to combine. Taste and add extra salt or lemon juice if needed.
Pour the hummus into a bowl and load up the crispy Kale chips on top. Sprinkle over edible flowers and optional chilli flakes and serve with warm toasted bread.
Notes
Edible flowers I used are: Onion flowers, pansies, calendula, cornflower, chrysanthemum, and nasturtium.
Toasted nuts and seeds would also be delicious additions.
Drizzle a little extra olive oil to serve.
Storing Kale Hummus
This hummus keeps in the fridge for up to 5 days in an airtight container. The crispy kale topping is best enjoyed fresh, but you can make a fresh batch quickly if needed. You can also freeze the base hummus (without toppings) for up to 3 months, perfect for quick snacks or lunch prep.
Garden to Plate
If your kale is getting ahead of you this season, blanch and freeze chopped kale in small handfuls so you’re ready to make this hummus (or green smoothies, soups, etc.) anytime. You can also substitute other leafy greens like silverbeet, beet greens, or parsley if you’re harvesting those instead.
Simple and so delicious this really is the best Kale salad! Garden-to-plate in a couple of minutes. Kale can be a struggle for many people to like but the curly edges and small dimples are amazing for holding on to flavours. This dressing is so easy and full of flavour it can be used on any of your garden salads.
The Best Kale Salad
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Simple and so delicious! This Kale salad is a staple garden-to-plate recipe.
Ingredients
4 cups chopped Kale (I used the Tuscan Variety)
2 TSBP Nuts or Seeds (Pumpkin and Sunflower)
3 Fresh Calendula Flowers
3 Fresh Nasturtium Flowers
1/4 tsp Salt
1 pinch dried chilli flakes
Salad Dressing
2 TBSP Lemon Juice
1 tsp Olive Oil
1 1/2 tsp Maple Syrup (or Honey)
Instructions
Wash and chop the Kale into 1cm strips. Add to a mixing bowl.
Toast the nuts or seeds in a dry frying pan - medium heat - for 2-3 minutes until slightly golden.
Mix together the dressing and massage into the kale with your hands until fully coated.
Sprinkle the salt, chilli, and calendula petals over the Kale and mix.
Add the salad to a serving dish and sprinkle over the seeds and Nasturtium Petals.
Enjoy!
Notes
Serve with a protein of your choice or pan-fried Haloumi or enjoy it on its own!
Ssubstitute edible flowers for what is available in your garden.
Kale (Brassica oleracea) is a member of the Cabbage family and produces an abundance of leafy greens. The great thing about Kale is that it grows vigorously and is much more pest-resistant than cabbages. Kale is packed with nutrients and antioxidants and can be used raw or cooked similar to lettuce or spinach.
Benefits from regular compost and natural fertilizers.
PESTS
Slaters, slugs, aphids, snails, and green caterpillars/ cabbage moth.
HARVEST
Harvest the outer leaves as the plant grows or cut the mature plant off and allow new growth to form.
REPRODUCE
Kale is Bi-annual so seeds usually form in the summer or second season.
Why Grow Kale?
Kale is a fantastic crop for beginner gardeners or those wanting a low-maintenance edible garden. Kale is hardy and grows well in many different conditions.
Here are some of the many reasons to grow Kale:
Easy to grow
Versatile produce
Low maintenance
Bulk up salads
Nutritious smoothies
Less susceptible to pests
Visual Aesthetics
Supports Immune health
Rich in Vitamin C,K,E
Can be eaten raw or cooked
Popular Kale Varieties
‘Tuscan / Tuscano’ – Heirloom variety. Produces long dark green, palm-like leaves. Popular for flavour and texture.
‘Red Russian’ – Silvery green curly leaves with striking purple veins. Young leaves are good raw and older leaves are better cooked. Great for microgreens.
‘Siberian‘ – Green curly leaves. Mild sweet flavour. Hardy and prolific.
‘Scarlet‘ – Bright purple frilly leaves. Colour deepens with cool weather. Nutritious and ornamental.
When to Plant Kale
Kale is best planted from the end of Summer to Spring. Flavour improves with cool weather. In summer plants can get covered in aphids and caterpillars and the flavour is less palatable.
How to Grow Kale
Plant seeds into seed trays first (young kale is popular with pests) and transplant them in a sunny location once they have 4-5 leaves.
Dig in compost and composted manure to feed the soil.
Kale has shallow roots so add mulch to keep retain moisture and regulate temperature.
Care/ Maintenance
Keep Kale well-watered and keep an eye out for pests.
Pests / Disease
Slugs and snails may eat young seedlings. Older plants can suffer from aphids and green caterpillars, especially in warmer months. Use natural pest management.
How/ When to Harvest
The best time to harvest your Kale is during the coldest months. This is when the flavour is at its best! Harvest a few of the bottom leaves off each plant to allow continuous growth. Towards the end of winter/ early spring, you can cut the Kale plants off just leaving the stalk in the ground. This will reshoot multiple side shoots for a new harvest into Spring.
Reproducing
Kale is biennial so it will go to flower and produce seeds in its second season/ year or if the weather gets too warm. If your Kale does go to flower, wait until the flowers turn into seed pods and once they start to dry and turn brown they can be harvested. Keep the seed pods somewhere warm and dry until they have completely dried out. Pop open the seed pods to reveal the small Kale seeds. Keep your seeds in a dry, dark cool location.
Cooking and Using Kale
Kale can be eaten raw or cooked.
Kale pairs well with: Garlic, onion, chilli, apple, lemon, potato, beetroot, sweet potato, cauliflower, cabbage, tomato, mustard, honey, radish
Kale ideas:
Salads
Smoothies
Quiche
Pie
Curry
Pastries
Stirfry
Pesto
Preserving the Harvest
Kale can be easily preserved to use throughout the year.
Deliciously sweet, and tart Rhubarb Crumble Slice with hidden garden greens. This gooey-centered slice is easy to make and will make a yummy dessert or sweet treat for lunches.
Rhubarb Crumble Slice
Yield: 12- 15 slices
Delicious sweet and tart slice with refreshing hints of lemon. An easy snack for lunches or serve with yogurt or icecream for a yummy dessert!
Ingredients
Crumble / base
1 1/2 Cups Rolled Oats
1 3/4 Cups Plain Flour
1 tsp Baking Powder
1/4 tsp Salt
1 tsp Lemon Zest
1/2 cup Melted Butter
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 TBSP Pureed Spinach Greens (1 1/2 cup fresh greens)*
Rhubarb Filling
2 Cups Chopped Rhubarb (2cm chunks)
1/4 Cup Sugar
2 TBSP Cornflour
3/4 Cup Water
3 TBSP Fresh Lemon Juice
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 180degrees Celcius. Grease a 25cm square dish.
Add all the filling ingredients into a saucepan on medium-low heat until the Rhubarb has softened. Add a little extra water if it is too thick. You want it to be thick but still be able to roll off the spoon.
Allow to cool while you prep the base.
Mix together all the dry ingredients for the crumble. Add in the melted butter and greens. (You can skip the greens and add an extra TSPB of butter).
Press 3/4 of the mixture into the dish to form the base. Bake for 10 minutes and remove from the oven.
Pour over the filling and sprinkle the remaining crumble on top.
Bake for 30-40minutes until slightly golden.
Grate extra lemon zest on top to serve.
Notes
*Blanch greens such as spinach or chard leaves, blitz to puree, and add into crumble for added nutrition.
Packed with fresh greens from the garden these garden green pikelets are so fun to make. With subtle, fragrant herb flavours and vibrant green colour these pikelets are a delight to eat. Served with a delicious Rhubarb compote.
Garden Green Pikelets
Yield: 20-25 pikelets
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Vibrant green pikelets packed with fresh greens from the garden.
Ingredients
1.5 cups of raw leafy greens*
1 cup flour
3 TBSP Sugar
1 tsp Baking Powder
1/4 cup milk
1 egg
20-25 herb leaves (Pineapple Sage and Lemon Balm)*
Instructions
Rinse the leafy greens and remove any hard stems. Blanch the leaves by submerging them in a pot of simmering hot water for 30-40 seconds and then add them straight to a bowl of ice-cold water. This step will help the pikelets retain their vibrant green colour. Skipping this step may result in a duller green.
Strain the greens and place them in a blender or mixer along with the milk. Blitz until all the greens are combined to create green milk.
Add in the egg and lightly blitz to combine.
In a mixing bowl add flour, baking powder, and sugar. Stir to combine. Add the green mix slowly and stir to combine. Add about 1/4 cup of water to the empty green mixer or blender jug and shake to clean the residual green mix from the sides. Use this if the mixture needs a little more liquid. It should fall from the spoon quite easily.
Clean your herb leaves and remove any hard stems. have these laid out ready to add while cooking your pikelets.
Place a frying pan on low-medium heat and coat with a little vegetable oil. Spoon in your pikelets and add a leaf to the top. Once the pikelet has 3-4 bubbles appear carefully flip and cook for a further minute.
Serve with Rhubarb compote and yogurt or cream.
Notes
Leafy Greens - I used Warrigal Greens (NZ Spinach) and a few Nasturtium leaves. You could use any mild flavoured leafy greens such as spinach or chard.
Herbs - Pineapple Sage and lemon balm worked the best as they handled the heat. I also tried Mint and pineapple sage flowers and they were ok too.